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Stream event card

Tue 24 Apr

Paul Thomson logged 4 ascents from the past at Bare Rock. • 2762 29 days ago

Logged 4 ascents from the past.

23 White Powder Warmup (To the 7th Bolt) Sport 12m, 7 — Fri 16th Mar 2018Very Good

2 x clean Back-to-back lead laps as a warmup. Short, pumpy and punchy. Good warmup.

27 Vapour Trail Sport 35m — Fri 16th Mar 2018Classic

Decided to check out the full route. Fell on the main crux of the bottom section while re-familiarising myself with it, then a bunch of falls on the top section. The top is quite intense (3 back-to-back V2/V3 boulders after having ticked a stiff 25 to the lower anchors), but really achievable, in an interesting balance of techy and boulder. One to spend some time on... if I had more time.

27 Atomic Vampire Sport 15m — Fri 16th Mar 2018Classic

Working lap as the torrential rains moved in. I really love this route (though it took me ages to remember the first sequence of the crux), but the ACTUAL crux for me is the clip immediately following the 2nd half of the crux... I've never managed to do it on link (seems to be about 1m right of the climbing line?). Might be time for some "Velcro jiggery-pokery" (a la Barbarella). I'd love to have this route as a local!

17 MacDonagh Trad 200m — Mon 19th Mar 2018Classic

With No-Chalk Rob. A classic in the style, with amazing exposure an improbable moves (especially when you consider when it was first climbed!). Onsight P2, and P4 & P5 (linked), clean 2nd P1 and P3. We started up a cleaner corner further right of the original line on P1, which was more pleasant (and less loose) and slightly harder. P2 in general is brilliant tradding, with the opening moves up the block, and the stemming across the void, being truly standout at the grade. P3 was "okay" rambling. P4 was brilliant steep stemming/jamming, though somewhat loose. I accidentally made up a new P5 (linked from the previous pitch), climbing up the thin overhanging corner directly (with a brief foray to the middle of the face immediately left), which was hard, loose and sparse on the gear... but bloody exciting. About gr21? That'll teach me not to read the guidebook. Rob also led a short grade nothing exit doddle.