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Stream event card

Sun 13 May

onsighted 6 routes and climbed 2 other routes at Labské pískovce and mentioned Daniel. • 2416 6 Points 10 days ago

Onsighted 6 routes, dogged a route and seconded a route.

VIIb Liga neregistrovaných Mixed 60m, 9Classic

Amazing route. Careful wall climbing to the first bolt (at around 9 meters; the last few moves are a bit strange), then an interesting boulder section with two-finger pockets to the second. Runout to the third bolt can be protected by a sling on the ledge. Wonderful climbing to the fourth bolt along a juggy rib and a few meters of easier wall climbing to the ring. From there on, it's 10 to 15 meters of pinches and pinches only, fantastic structure! The last few meters are on crimps and a balancy move to the anchor. — with Daniel

VIIIa Adrenalin (RP) Mixed 50m, 8Very Good

Remarkably, the third bolt at about 15 to 20 meters supposedly used to be the first … I can hardly imagine that. Tricky passage at the (now) first bolt, nice wall climbing with crux (for me) after the ledge with the hollow flake. Long runouts after it merges with the older "Utečeme na jih", but slings possible. — with Daniel

VIIc Americký sen (RP) Mixed 60m, 9Very Good

Varied route with sensibly placed bolts. Nice start on big crimps to the first bolt (8 to 10 meters?), tricky section into a slab with interesting moves (crux?) directly at the bolt (but long runout afterwards). Athletic moves through a small rooflet, easier to the top. — with Daniel

V Údolní cesta Mixed 1Average

A bit green and not the best rock, but a few nice meters from the ring. — with Daniel

VI Údolní cesta TradAverage

Might be better without the vegetation (lichen above the ring, shrubs from the ledge to the summit). Small holds from the ring to the ledge. — with Daniel

VI Údolní cesta Mixed 1Good

Nice chimney to a big chock (sling underneath and sling to the right of the chock). Stood on the chock for quite some time thinking about the consequences of a fall, but then found another position for a sling in the chimney above the chockstone. Nice moves from there (and thankfully two more slings) to the col and the ring and further up the wall to the summit. — with Daniel

VI Údolní cesta TradGood

The fourth "Údolní cesta" today and probably the best, although it took us a while to find it. I think the description in the Kittler guidebook is wrong, as it makes no sense to traverse to the arête on the right at any point; also, the description in the book on the summit says to go left and up, too. To sum up: difficult start to a small ledge (I clipped the ring of the hard route next to it), then left and up to a ledge (sling) with huge flakes. Above the flakes (good sling!), merge into "Severní cesta" (nice climbing but unprotected) to the big ledge (sling). Short wall with good slopers to the top. — with Daniel

VIIIb Tarantule Sport 8m, 3Average

Short route with a small roof. I broke away a foothold in the slab afterwards and fell. — with Daniel