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Mon 25 Jun

updated some routes at Nowra. 80 discuss 21 days ago

Updated 2 routes.

Updated the route 26 Muscle Hustler.
Updated beta description.
The mega mega roof line that makes your neck hurt just to look at it. Looks improbable until you get up there and find out how big some of the holds are. Easily and often confused with The Hustler. The mega mega roof line that makes your neck hurt just to look at it. Looks improbable until you get up there and find out how big some of the holds are. Start on the very right hand side of the pocketed wall. Follow the permadraws left through the roof. Where they (and the chalk) continue up (The Hustler), this breaks left again (no permadraws!) through the top roof and up onto the amazing orange rock of the headwall. Start: Start on the very right hand side of the pocket wall. Now with permadraws.
Updated the route 24 The Hustler.
Updated beta description.

Now with permadraws in from the roof to the top. But watch out for the just-too-short permadraw which pinches your rope hard against the sharpish main lip of the roof - BYO extender. This is an excellent option for rainy days - even if the Pocketed Wall is shut down by the spooge this route is unaffected.

Evan Wells started this discussion 22 days ago.

Not so sure about the first sentence Lee. This is the first winter my partner hasnt (yet) decided to project something down there and I have personally not experienced climbers unaware of which route they want to try.

Evan Wells replied 22 days ago.

It had permas until the owner of permas ticked the route which took half a decade

replied 22 days ago.

Muscle Hustler has zero chalk and yet plenty of 'ticks' (in error). And theCrag's description was that it has permadraws. It doesn't!

Evan Wells replied 22 days ago.

Only Damien Su claimed the wrong route , and yeah since the permas were removed that definately needed editing. The chalk doesnt stay on because its too sandy! (and with the perma-permadraws on Hustler it gets loads more ascents. There were permas on both for a few years.

Matt Minus replied 21 days ago.

I know more than one person that claimed the 26 when they had actually done The Hustler.... I'm pro correct information on here

Evan Wells replied 21 days ago.

Ok , good to know in this context . Im all for route descriptions too.

Sebastian Sakowicz replied 21 days ago.

I was the one that put up the perma draws, a few years ago now on both climbs. I had few people make some negative comments that it was spoiling their experience of the climb so I decided to at least take them off the Muscle hustler which I think is only 3 or 4 draws anyway. Usually not too hard to clean, The hustler is real pain in the arse to clean so I left them there.

Evan thanks for noticing how long it takes me to climb something. I think you were one of the people I spoiled the experience for, my apologies.

replied 21 days ago.

Thanks for the permas Sebastian. I certainly appreciated them

Phil Neville replied 21 days ago.

So is this muscle hustler or the hustler?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVVS8C6-EjY

Kent Paterson replied 21 days ago.

Its muscle hustler phillip

Evan Wells replied 21 days ago.

There were no permas when I climbed these but no doubt I chimed in somewhere online? With some viewpoint. I have appreciated your draws on another roof (I think) and its a great gift to leave permas on a route like The Hustler. Apparently Ive missed some juicy online action re/ permadraw debates lately. My initial query was the necessity of description regarding people confusing the two routes , but apparently this does happen so happy to be corrected. Btw my last project took almost 4 years. No shame there.