Aide

Turner Road

  • Contexte de la cotation : AU
  • Photos : 4
  • Ascensions : 64

Saison

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Résumé

Bouldering area in Berowra Heights, mostly easy problems on good rock with a quick approach.

Description

This small cliffline runs along the west side of the Turner Rd fire trail, only 5 minutes walk from the end of Turner Rd. There are some good quality easy problems and plenty of development potential including a few harder routes. As this is a relatively newly developed area, there is still a bit of dirty and suspect rock - take care.

Limit. de l'accès

Located on Crown Land outside of Berowra Valley NP.

Approche

Park at the end of Turner Road. Follow the fire trail, staying left at the first fork. Walk along the fire trail for another 50m or so, passing a walking track on the right, until you see some boulders on the right side of the fire trail. Another 10m on from where these boulders start, turn left into the bush and descend via a break in the cliff line (possibly marked by a cairn). Climbs start right of here and are described right to left.

Historique

Graphique de l'historique des voies

Unknown history. There are a few chipped holds towards the end of the crag alongside a bunch of machine head glue-ins which were installed prior to 2010 (Emergency services used to do training here however would not be using carrots).

Voies

Ajouter une(des) voie(s) Ajouter un topo Réorganiser Éditer en masse Cotations converties
Cotation Voie

First boulder you come to as you walk down

Sit start with both hands at the crimps just above the white lichen, balance your way up to slopey mantle

FA: Charles B, 18 Juil 2020

Start with feet down in the hole, leaning on the rock with hands matched on the lip. Powerful moves with the added difficulty of avoiding dabbing the rock behind.

FA: Charles B, 3 Juil 2020

Blunt arete just left of "Floor is Lava"

Flared crack past floor is lava

Sit Start - Left hand on the undercling, right on lowest point of ledge with an interesting toe hook start. After that, straight up through crimps left of crack into sloper mid section

Équip.: Liam Coffey

The next few routes start in the big cave. WARNING: the topouts in this section are a bit sketchy with insecure holds high off the deck. Take care.

Start Low, Heel up then straight up the small prow using thumb press and high left crimp. Everything left of the two finger pocket on the rail is out. Either a hard V4 or softish V5 depending on your height.

Équip.: Liam Coffey, Août 2020

FA: Liam Coffey, 23 Sept 2020

Just left of "Magma", this time everything right of the two finger pocket is out.

Équip.: Liam Coffey, 23 Sept 2020

Start deep in the far right hand side of the cave, low traverse to finish up Convfefe.

Équip.: Liam Coffey

Overhanging hand crack to the right of "Divine Beast". Faceholds are in. Top out is a little bit dodgy.

FA: Rick W, Juil 2020

Starts just right of the crack between "Covfefe" and "Lechon Kawali". From the undercut start pull onto the vertical wall above. Take care with the topout.

FA: Charles B, 17 Juil 2020

Wall left of the cave. Easiest descent is to downclimb or the long way via the walk-in track.

Start on jugs above the lip

FA: Charles B, 19 Juin 2020

Stemming fun up the corner. Be careful if topping out.

FA: Rick W, Juil 2020

Sit start at the obvious pocket

FA: Charles B, 5 Juil 2020

Straight up the arête.

FA: Rick W, Avr 2020

Starts left of the Arete.

FA: Rick W, Avr 2020

1m right of LI

FA: Rick W, Avr 2020

Right of the double grass tree, following the lichen.

FA: Rick W, Avr 2020

Start to the left of the double grass tree up the orange streak.

FA: Rick W, Avr 2020

1m right of II.

FA: Rick W

Start with both hands in the obvious pocket. Follows a crimpy sequence.

FA: Rick W, Avr 2020

Sustained traverse on crimps and thin feet. Start matched in the pocket as for Insidious Infection, move to the first crimp and head right. Finish on Arete. Avoid jugs at the very top of the wall.

FA: Rick W, Juil 2020

Up the corner left of "Insidious Infection"

FA: Charles B, 13 Juin 2020

The next four routes top out through the hole at the right end of the orange "wave" wall.

Start at pocket right of twin grass trees.

FA: Charles B, 13 Juin 2020

Starts just left of twin grass trees

FA: Charles B, 13 Juin 2020

1m left of The Orange Room, just right of the grass tree. Sit start at undercling then up orange streak.

FA: Charles B, 13 Juin 2020

Start left of the grass tree. Traverse along the rail to top out at "Kookin' in the Foamies".

FA: Charles B, 13 Juin 2020

The next three routes are at the left end of the orange "wave". Descend by downclimbing "Dumpers", or the long way via the walk-in track.

Start low and follow the juggy rail to top out at "The Search"

FA: Charles B, 19 Juin 2020

Sit start at low sidepull and up using holds on the face only

FA: Charles B, 19 Juin 2020

Corner

FA: Charles B, 19 Juin 2020

8m left of "Closeout Corner" where the wall starts to steepen

Start matched in horizontal gash.

FA: Charles B, 3 Juil 2020

About 10m left of "Four Simple Steps to Total Life Satisfaction" at the compact, orange wall.

A bit of a one-move wonder. Sit start at the crimp and sidepull/gaston on the left side of the orange wall, make a difficult move left to the sidepull in the scoop then up to topout at the ledge.

FA: Charles B, 24 Juil 2020

Prow with twin SS glue-in carrot top anchors. Hard mantle to breaks, then headwall.

Rounded corner then ramp

Wide breaks then seam and pockets below twin SS glue-in carrots.

Wide breaks then pocketted wall below twin SS glue-in carrots.

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Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Auteur·e·s: Mike Forward and Peter Balint

Date: 2023

With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.

Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.

Auteur·e·s: Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

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