Croissants, seas of sandstone boulders and scenic limestone sport crags.
France is a highly sought-after destination for climbing, and for good reasons. From classic sport crags to scenic multi-pitch adventures just above the water or 4,000m up an alpine peak, there’s a something for everyone here, all year round. And then, there’s the unforgettable food!
As a rule of thumb, the quality of climbing gets better and better as you go South, with some notable exceptions.
For bouldering (‘bloc’). About an hour away from Paris, Fontainebleau is a world-class bouldering area with more than 30,000 sandstone boulder problems. To the West, in the Bretagne region, you’ll find granite boulders right by the beach, such as in Pen-Hir and Kerlouan. In the South, check out Targassone, Annot, Ailefroide and many more.
For sport climbing (’escalade sportive’), there’s no shortage of world-class crags. Start with the classic areas such as Le Saussois, Les Calanques, Le Verdon, Buoux, Volx, Chateauvert, Orpierre, Mouries… and then head to the more ‘futuristic’ falaises such as Ceuse, Les Gorges du Tarn, Saint-Léger du Ventoux, Orgon, Les Gorges du Loup... the list goes on.
For trad climbing (‘escalade en terrain d’aventure’), head to Annot, le Vercors, but also Les Gorges du Verdon or even Ceuse.
Deep water soloing is also worth a mention with Les Calanques, La Ciotat, Les Gorges du Tarn, Les Gorges du Verdon and La Piade being hot spots in the summer months. Watch for tourists when jumping off!
Last but not least, climbing is also well developed in French islands such as Corsica, la Guadeloupe (Caribbeans) and l’Ile de la Reunion (Indian Ocean).
Bonne grimpe!
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A few useful words:
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/
Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.
Saviez-vous que vous pouvez créer un compte pour enregistrer, suivre et partager vos ascensions ? Des milliers de grimpeurs le font déjà.
1C | ★★★ L'Horizontale | ||
3b | ★★★ Déclic fraîcheur | ||
AD | ★★★ Via ferrata du Malzieu | ||
3C | ★★★ Yellow circuit | ||
4a D | ★★★ Arete des Cosmiques | ||
4 | ★★★ Traversée des Petits Charmoz | ||
4b | ★★★ Grand duc L2 | ||
5 A1 | ★★★ South Face | ||
4B | ★★★ La Coque | ||
D | ★★★ Roqueprins | ||
5 | ★★★ Voie du fond | ||
5b | ★★★ Directe Américaine | ||
5b+ | ★★★ Lubna | ||
5c | ★★ Les écuries d'Augias | ||
5c+ | ★★★ Nanard c’est peinard | ||
6a | ★★ Katina | ||
6a+ | ★★★ Voie Rébuffat/ Baquet | ||
6b | ★★ Marylou | ||
6b+ | ★★ Harley Davidson | ||
6c | ★★★ Zagreb | ||
6A | ★★★ La Marie Rose | ||
7a | ★★★ La Javanaise | ||
7a+ | ★★★ Angel Dust | ||
7b | ★★★ Lapinerie | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Blocage Violent | ||
7c | ★★★ Vagabond d'occident | ||
7c+ | ★★★ Mirage | ||
8a | ★★★ Carte Blanche | ||
8a+ | ★★★ Sueurs Froides | ||
7C to 8A | ★★★ Pyromane | ||
8b+ | ★★★ Grande autonomie exigée | ||
8c | ★★★ Dures Limites | ||
8A+ | ★★★ Big Dragon (assis) | ||
8B | ★★★ Pyromane (sds) | ||
9a+ | ★★★ Biographie | ||
8B+ | ★★★ Le Clash | ||
8C | ★★★ La force | ||
8C+/9A | ★★★ Soudain Seul |
Murzella - Murzella
★★★ Kohlmann 6c - IMG_1581.jpeg
Lisa à Dent du Géant - 2017-08-07_Chamonix_DentDuGeant.JPG
Doigt de Dieu - The doigt de dieu seen from the beach of En Vau
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