Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Popularité | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fermé Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag | |||||
23 | ★★ Sagittarian
Steep crack 6m left of 'Sickle' to break, then move R and up past a bolt, onto easier ground. FA: Peter Millington & Adrian Jones, 1969 FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978 | 12m, 1 | |||
23 | ★★ Little Thor Direct Finish
After the crux on 'Little Thor', continue straight up instead of scuttling off left. Take a bolt bracket. FA: Toshihiko Hijakata, 1988 | 5m, 1 | |||
Fermé Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★ Traverse
| 10m | |||
V4 | ★ V4 Problem
| 5m | |||
V3 | ★★ V3 pocket problem
| 5m | |||
23 | ★★★ Brain Death
Follow the wide crack the whole way up. FA: Henry Barber | 5m | |||
V3 | ★ Brain Death - Piker's Variant
| ||||
V3 | ★★ L
| 6m | |||
V3 | ★★ D
| 6m | |||
Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall | |||||
23 | ★ Vogon Destructor Fleet
Start right of Asteroids, head up to small V in overhang below bolts. Follow bolts through bulges, then 2 bolts trending right through head wall to shared anchor with 'Hyperspace Bypass'. FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 17 Oct. 2015 | 20m, 4 | |||
Colosseum Wall Area The Thimble | |||||
23 | ★ Wingspan
Start on arête up and left past bolt up to break 3cam then straight up to top of head wall small wires, then finishing out right on arête and up to high anchor | 10m, 1 | |||
King Rat Area The Shark fin | |||||
23 | ★ spiderman savior
| 7m | |||
King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully | |||||
23 | Valley of the Deformed Pork Salesman
Caveat emptor! Start: Start in the cramped gully, up L of 'Hunger'. FA: Mike Law & Mark Colyvan, 1983 | 20m, 1 | |||
23 R | Wub Wub Direct
Scary face with stacked blocks, then wall and arete. Start: Start 2m R of LF. FA: Mike Law & Ian ANger, 1983 | 30m | |||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork | |||||
23 | Ratatat
Pull through the start of 'Luxury Item' then L along the horizontal line to the arête. Up the arête past a bolt to a ledge and double glue-in lower-off anchor. FA: Glenn Tempest, 9 Nov. 2016 | 15m, 1 | |||
23 R | Luxury Item
Fiddly pro initially. Step R at 15m to find the rap anchor above 'King Rat'. Apparently the "awesome" continuation up the chossy headwall is yet to be done - knock yourself out. Start: Start beneath the grey wall which separates 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork and Right Fork. FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1981 | 15m | |||
23 | ★ Inquisitive Creatures
Climb Glory Rodent until through the crux. Traverse L to jug on arete and good medium wire above. Climb arete direct, watch out for rope drag or use doubles. Extra grade just for the extra effort required... it's not really any harder than GR. FA: Goshen Watts, 25 Jan 2020 | 23m | |||
23 R | ★ Kookenhagen
The rotten flake then the bulge to pull R into the flake, belay on R. Carrot has been replaced by a bolt Start: Start R of KR. FA: Rod Young & Mike Meyers, 1982 | 20m, 1 | |||
23 | Of Mice And Men
Straightens out and significantly improves Kookenhagen. Easily up the line for a few metres then pull up left around the overlap past a bolt runner and up the line above (Kookenhagen stays lower and keeps traversing left). FA: Kevin Lindorff & Malcolm Matheson, Oct. 2016 | 15m, 1 | |||
23 | ★ Purple Denotes Bruising
Fingery moves. The original crap bolts were replaced in 2003. Start: Start R of FB, beneath the huge chockstone above the gully. FA: Mike Law & Chris Shepherd, 1982 | 10m, 3 | |||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall | |||||
23 R | ★ Even More Moves
Go straight up, it's hard to get the pro in. FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985 | 12m | |||
23 | The Other Route
Stick clip U-bolt. Take a running jump off the end of the ledge and leap for the jug. Simultaneously, get your belayer to take in about 5 metres of slack however seems apt. Then climb the crack. Start: Start off the R end of the ledge. FA: Mike Law & Malcolm Matheson, 1983 | 25m | |||
23 | ★★ Dead Metaphor
Link up of Skydiver to Sustained Metaphor. Start up Skydiver until the horizontal weakness at about 8m. Go L along this to the groove on Sustained Metaphor, and up this to the top. Great sustained climbing. FA: Unknown | 25m | |||
23 | ★★ Beside Myself
Start: Start 1.5m R of S.
FA: Mike Law & Greg Garnham, 1982 | 30m, 2, 2 | |||
23 | ★★ Myself
Up BM to it's first bolt. Head right to another bolt, some hard moves and finally BM's anchor. FA: Gareth Llewellin & Jessie Rushbrooke, 4 Jan 2015 | 10m, 2 | |||
King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle | |||||
23 | English Ethics LHF
As for EE but span L to the jug on the prow and up the prow to finish. Start: Start as for CC. FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little & Maureen Gallagher, 1989 | 15m, 1 | |||
Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully | |||||
23 | Ferrari in a Chevrolet World
Up the seam, joining the last 3m of 'Entangled'. Start: Start 8m L of 'Entangled'. FA: Roland Foster & Dave Vass, 1989 | 12m | |||
Pilot Error Cliffs Kryptonite Krack Area | |||||
23 | ★ Thanksgiving Sunday
The thin dogleg crack behind dead conifer. Start: Start on the wall below 'Kryptonite Krack'. FA: Chris Peisker, 1977 | 12m | |||
23 | ★★ Kryptonite Krack
Prance up the inverted trench, exit L. Start: Start beneath the main diagonal crack through the steep bulge. FA: Greg Child, 1978 | 14m | |||
23 | ★ Auntie Florrie
Short thin crack with very tough start. L along break to exciting juggy finish. Start: Start R of S. FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1980 | 15m | |||
23 | Clark Kent
Finish direct. Start: Start as for AF. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1979 | 10m | |||
Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area | |||||
23 | ★ Predator
Bouldery. Start: Start off boulder underneath roof. FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1977 | 15m | |||
Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall | |||||
23 R | Beasley St
Start just R of C. Boldly up face to bolt. FA: Guy Cotter & Steve Howden, 1981 | 20m, 1 | |||
Atridae Cassandra Area | |||||
23 | ★★ Pain Street
While this is very nearly a sport route, it's important to place gear past the last bolt to avoid a nasty swing into the slab if you fall off the crux. Start: Start as for 'Cassandra Direct'. | 15m, 7 | |||
23 X | Unguarded Moments
Up the middle of the face - no pro. Stay L of the arete (which is taken by the upper part of It'll Never Fly). It is 19 but probably no easier (!!) to take a flying leap across the chasm from Cassandra's 1st belay to the halfway break! Start: Start on the R wall of the gully, opposite PW. FA: Chris Shepherd & Malcolm Matheson, 1982 | 40m | |||
Atridae The Flight Deck | |||||
23 | ★★★ Orestes
You can climb all of pitch 1 and the good bit of pitch 2 in a single mega pitch, then step left to the anchor of 'Afterburner'. It's a great shame that this new anchor wasn't placed 2m to the R on the front of the arete, as this would have allowed the leader to clean their own gear, but as it is someone will need to second if you do this extended version. Start: Start at the big corner on the Flight Deck.
FA: Jim Newlands & John Bennett, 1966 FFA: Kim Carrigan (1st pitchand LHV 13/3/84), Glenn Tempest (2nd pitch & 8/76), 1979 | 40m, 2 | |||
Atridae Muldoon Area | |||||
23 | Curved Air
As for Muldoon for 10m to the cave, then steeply out to slot, and up L into crack. Best descent is to use the Fail Safe DRB, otherwise continue up Muldoon to its rap anchors. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Dave Moss, 1979 | 10m | |||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | |||||
23 | Crows in the Snow
Start on the L side of Collision Course Wall, at the top of the V-slot the trail takes, beneath a short L curving flake. Up flake for 12m to cave, then R and blindly through bulge to another cave. Finish up any other route to get off. Poor rock and gear. FA: Paul Tattersall & Chris Shepherd, 1982 FA: (described finish added by Kim Carrigan & Malcolm Matheson), 1982 | 20m | |||
23 | Guessing Game
Reachy. An old route that starts as for FF to the 2nd FH then keeps traversing across to CC. Superseded by FF. FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead (variant by Mike Law), 1981 | 40m, 3 | |||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Steel Delinquency Pinnacle | |||||
23 R | Blood and Iron
Reachy. Start: Start 4m L of SD, below little gumtree poking out of cliff. FA: Tim Day, Nick Neagle & Craig Roberts, 1992 | 30m, 1 | |||
23 | Pick Pocket
Up face, over pocketed roof, then up R to hole. Start: Start under the arch. FA: Chris Shepherd & Paul Tattersall, 1982 | 30m | |||
23 | Throw Me No Beers
Up the patch of orange rock, 2 BRs. Start: Start on the tiny outcrop which is downhill from 'Steel Delinquency' Pinnacle, and which faces the same way. | 12m, 2 | |||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Finger Prince Pinnacle | |||||
23 | Strings Attached
The speckled face which may have a fixed wire. Start: Start up around L of FP. FA: Chris Shepherd & Warwick Baird, 1982 | 20m | |||
23 | ★★ Finger Prince
Flake, L past PR into small techie corner on arete. Finish L up flake or straight up. The direct start is 23 with a BR, and uses the original footholds as handholds. Start: Start at the L arete of the FP pinnacle, 2m L of TT. FA: Greg Child, Kim Carrigan (Direct Start by Nick White & Andy Pollitt), 1990 | 15m, 1 | |||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Iron Void Pinnacle | |||||
23 | ★★ Iron Void
Start off the boulder and L and up the great face which swallows heaps of small wires - if you have the stamina to find the placements! You can also approach the same line by doing the reachy start of IVV. FA: Tony Dignan & Geoff Little, 1979 | 20m | |||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle | |||||
23 | ★ A Plaything For the Missus
Fingery up to BR, R across SO, and up past 2nd BR. Start: Start up L of SO. FA: Ross Meffin & Kate Thomas, 1992 | 15m, 2 | |||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | |||||
23 | Quiet Time
A good pump in the Organ Pipes? Start left of Diapason, 2m right of Ejaculation, beneath obvious overlap. FA: Hoskins, Wilkins & Pritchard, 1995 | 20m | |||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | |||||
23 | ★ Sissy Bars and Super Freaks
Start just right of Wraith. Great moves on thin face, cruxy past second bolt. Finish straight up or traverse L to finish up The Wraith or Tannin. FA: Ant Prehn & Jon Muir.., 1986 | 30m | |||
23 | A Concerted Effort Direct
| ||||
Organ Pipes Area Rabbit Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★ Over the Nose of the Bunny
Sit start. | 2m | |||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area | |||||
23 | Little Aesthetics
Lovely line that has been inadvertantly retroed. The obvious line on the left wall. Up obvious crack stepping right, up, then right again. FA: Hoskins & Smith, 1995 | 10m, 1 | |||
23 | ★ Golden Triangle
May start as for Mark You've Changed and then provide a direct finish to that climb. Or MYC may be just left of this. Needs another look. Start at the lefthand of the flakes leading to the inverted V. Up the obvious right facing flake then right ward on thin holds to a balance crux passing a bolt, then up to the anchor. FA: Lachlan Hick & Muki Woods FA: Lachlan Hick & muki woods, 2007 | 20m, 23, 1 | |||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | |||||
23 | ★ Horrorscope Direct Start
Pretty much a separate route - straight up to the finish of Horrorscope FA: Kim Carrigan, John Smoothey & john smoothy, 1984 | 15m | |||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Pebbles and Bam Bam | |||||
23 | Duck Off
Thin crack to ledge. Start: Start in the gully R of 'Bam Bam', on the L wall. FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead, 1981 | 15m | |||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wuss Wall | |||||
23 | Wall of the Early Morning Wusses
The seam. Start: Start on the L side of 'Wuss Wall'. FA: Glenn Tempest & Paul Aubrey, 1980 | 9m | |||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Deep Freeze Wall | |||||
23 | ★ Strapping
Up to horizontal, left 1m, then reach to flake on bulge and up. Start: Start 1m L of H. FA: Kieran Loughran & Mark Walters, 1985 | 15m | |||
23 | Deep Blue
Where strapping stumbled off left into easier ground, step right, past bolt and direct to the top. Enough spice to make you think. FFA: Eddy Mofadin, 2014 | 18m, 1 | |||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||
23 | ★★ Poly Evans
Links the middle section of Polygap into the top of Evans Above via the obvious higher traverse. Reach left from the stance on Megalomaniac to clip first and second bolts of Polygap then head up, verring slightly leftwards. Traverse left via tricky underclings and smears to join Evans Above where it steepens. Twin ropes and or long slings are handy. FA: Bradd Jimmink & Geordie Webb, 5 Fév 2019 | 28m, 2 | |||
23 R | ★★ Vacancy
Apparently this route had a peg, however that appears to have fallen out (the missing peg shouldn't stop you from getting on it though!). Take lots of #1 RPs. Often mossy, may need a brush. Start 2m R of Devoid. Finish up the gully, before traversing right to the chains of Electric Warrior. FA: Kim Carrigan & John Smoothy, 1979 | 25m | |||
23 R | ★ Moving Right Along
Pumpy and scary. Wall to join flakes, then go 3m R and finish just L of D. Start 8m L of D. FA: Mark Moorhead & Steve Lassche, 1980 | 14m | |||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | |||||
23 | ★★★ Intransience
Committing traverse R gains ledge, then up R and up black wall. Start 10m R and down from Cecilia. Trad anchor on top. FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1979 | 25m | |||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls | |||||
23 | ★ Thin Air
Start 1m R of T. Up the R-leaning flakes, then the face. FA: Chris Shepherd & Paul Tattersall, 1982 | 20m | |||
23 | ★ Revolution Rock
Start 10m down R of Copyright in small gully. Up steep limestone-like wall past bolts, and R over bulge, then back left and up to an old wad of cord to lower off. There is also a few more FHs 2-3m R of this line - anyone know what this is? FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1983 | 18m | |||
23 | Clash
Starts just right of Rasputin. Short problem past ancient fixed wire. Climb groove to the wire, then using a flake, up to roof and onwards to ledge. A good anchor can be found on the wall above this or there are chains at the top of Tres Hard. FA: Rod Young & Ant Prehn, 1983 | 10m | |||
23 | ★★ On High
Well chalked bouldery start to large undercling, then up into groove, finishing above little roof. Well protected and classic climbing. FA: Kim Carrigan & Eddy Ozols, 1979 | 20m | |||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | |||||
23 | ★★ Misunderestimated
Thin seam with bolt on next wall down from Pitchfork that looks about 5 grades easier than it actually is. Tenuous and technical and maybe even be 24. Someone go to onsight it and let me know! Lower off. FA: Wendy Eden, Douglas Hockly & Lou Shepherd, 5 Jan 2016 | 15m, 1 | |||
23 | Procrastinationable
The first of 2 intermittent cracks above the tiny gully heading down towards Reaper. Up line through overlap then the diagonal line above to anchors on Pritchard's Neuralgia. FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 1 Avr 2016 | 26m | |||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully The Torture Chamber | |||||
V3 | ★ 2) deep V
Most certainly Glenn just got the grade mixed up in the first 2 routes. This is V3 and generous at that! | ||||
V4 | ★★ 3) thin seam
| ||||
V3 | ★ 5) around roof and up
| 4m | |||
{US} V3 | Greg Childs Problem
| ||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress | |||||
23 | ★ Chaconne Direct Finish
Up the R side of the buttress. At the head wall head directly up the crack to the right of the arete | 15m | |||
23 | Andy Warhol
Tough around roof onto wall and into crackline on L. Start 2m R of the L arete of the west-facing wall, above Armpit. FA: Rod Young & Ant Prehn, 1982 | 15m | |||
23 | ★ Reaper Direct Finish
From the cave at the end of the sickle (of Reaper) traverse 2-3m right and pull over bulge. Follow right leading flake until it ends (ignoring the RBs just to the right), then move right and up past FH and very old piton. FA: Chris Shepherd & Eddy Ozols, 1981 | 15m | |||
23 | ★★★ Grim Reaper
A link up of Reaper and the Direct Finish. From near the finish of the Reaper sickle line (about 5m before you get to the DRB), go up past 2 ringbolts and trad to final FH and (bad) piton on Reaper Direct Finish. This is best done as one mega pitch from the ground. There’s no anchor: the Taste Sensation rap chains are 8m to the right (33m rap), or if you want to lower off to strip the gear it’s ok to reverse to and thread the last ring. FA: Enga Lokey, 2000 | 35m | |||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress | |||||
23 R | ★ Los Finales
R on suss rock, up short crack, R below bulge, then straight up to roof and beyond. Start: Start at the same spot as LE. FA: Mark Moorhead & John Middendorf, 1981 | 25m | |||
23 | Warhead
Climb the shallow groove with a bolt. Start: Start just L of SaBB. FA: And Prehn & Rod Young, 1984 | 15m, 1 | |||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | |||||
23 | ★★ The Sandpiper
Start at a large chimney at the foot of the buttress, then traverse left until at the base of a short overhanging wall easily noted by large white jug, crux, then once past this, up on difficult and sharp layaways through small roof, then arriving at the rap station (26m). Start: The overhung arete at the base of 'Dunes' buttress, up the offwidth chimney on the right. FA: Chris Dewhirst, 1968 | 30m | |||
23 | Kay's Third Marriage
The short steep arete 3m R of Scribble. Off ledge into short crack, up to PR, then steep jugs. Start at Dunes' first belay. FA: Chris Shepherd & Rod Young, 1982 | 20m | |||
23 | Icecream Man
Go 8m R uphill from Kays Third Marriage. Take the hand crack through the short roof. Start at Dunes' first belay. FA: Rod Young & Tim Chapman, 1981 | 20m | |||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | |||||
23 | Bullwinkle
Start 1.5 metres right of Rocky. Up out to the RH arete, take this to the buckets, then go L and up seam to a block. FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1993 | 12m | |||
23 | ★★ Feral Chicken Direct Finish
An unlikely sequence of good moves. After the original crux, continue straight up the wall to the anchors. FA: Glenn Tempest, 7 Mars 2017 | 20m, 1 | |||
23 | ★ Petrol Solutions
As for Slap Happy (crux) to the ledge, then follow the bolts. Better than it looks and manages to stay out of Slap the Philanthropist. Start as for SH. FA: Chris Shepherd & Gordon Poultney, 1994 | 30m, 3 | |||
23 | ★★ Slap Happy
Short crack, bulge past bolt and gain the ledge near the R end of The Philanthropist's diagonal. Continue straight up the thin crack above the ledge. Start 2m R of L. FA: Chris Shepherd & Rod Young, 1980 | 30m, 1 | |||
23 | Kool Aid
Up the slab L of Kincaid to a desperate slap for a jug. Finish L of Kincaid if you can be bothered (contrived). Just toproped off the chains. FA: Douglas Hockly, 2010 | 20m | |||
23 | ★ Wavy Gravy
Start a metre right of the rock step and follow initial couple of bolts through crux sequence to ledge, step left on ledge and up through proud rock. Small wires and small cams. FA: Hywel Rowlands & Glenn Tempest, Fév 2019 | 18m, 3 | |||
23 | ★ Mr Happy Direct (Supper Happy)
A more obvious direct version of Mr Happy. After the first two bolts of Mr Happy head straight up the wall via horizontal with small to medium cams to join the end of Kinkaid. FFA: adam demmert, 22 Mars 2019 | 2 | |||
23 | Visual Laxative
Accidentally retroed but probably benefits from it as it might now actually get climbed. Start 5m R of Morfydd. Shallow groove to ledge then L and up concave face (crux) to second ledge. Weave R then L through juggy overhang then R up seam to finish L of arete. Some loose feeling rock. FA: Kim Carrigan & Natalie Green, 1979 | 35m, 2, 1 | |||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fermé Fang Buttress | |||||
23 | ★ Suicide Fly
The arete right of Orc-Wood with 2 bolts FA: Paul Deacon, 2009 | 12m, 2 | |||
23 | The Bitter End
Take the middle of the face between 'Vaunted' and 'Kamikaze', with one bolt. Start: Start just L of K. FA: Jim Thomas & Chris Shepherd, 1983 | 18m, 1 | |||
23 | Dead Ahead
Trend up R almost to the arete, then up past a piton to an interesting finish. Start: Start as for TO. FA: Kim Carrigan, Barry Young & Simon Parsons, 1978 | 20m | |||
23 R | ★ Ferrets and Berts
Climb the arete with one bolt and not much else pro. Deviating into XI briefly at half height to avoid the widow maker loose flake is sensible (but if you're leading this you're probably a bit short on sense). Start: Start under the SE arete of 'Fang Buttress', between DA and XI. FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981 | 30m, 1 | |||
23 | ★★ Strolling
Up the steep flake, traverse 5m L under the bulge to a bolt, then over the bulge and up. Pro is ok but quite tricky to get in on lead. Start: Start 8m R of Fang. FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981 | 25m, 1 | |||
23 | ★ Pulpy Kidney
Stick clip bolt then up flake to jugs. At 2nd BR you can go straight up bulges or go L to flake and arete. Start: Start by walking around the R (north) end of 'Fang Buttress' and going 20m up the gully behind. FA: Mike Law & Steve Howden, 1982 | 15m, 2 | |||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fermé Plaque | |||||
23 R | ★ Jump Club
Start left of the plaque. Smooth start then into the groove. FA: Mike Law | 10m | |||
23 R | ★ Everest Without Oxygen
Start left of cave (as for Dramp). Left from the bottom of the cave an up a thin seam. FA: Col Reece | 15m | |||
23 | ★ Angry Little Man
Short steep face, finish L as for Loboff. Start: Start just R of D. FA: Graham Jones & James Falla, 1986 | 8m | |||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Golden Streak Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ Bowyang
Full traverse left to right including golden streak face (crux) | 15m | |||
V3 | ★ V3
1m left of decent route | 3m | |||
{US} V4 | ★ Moss Factor
| 4m |