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Affichant les 66 voies total.

Cotation Voie Style d'escalade Popularité
Fermé Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag
27 All Decked Out

This is the 2 FHs up the nice little face trending L from 'Deck Games'.

Start: As for 'Deck Games'.

FA: Gordon Poultney, 2000

Trad mixte 12m, 2
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork
27 Spinning Around the Drain

Old James Falla project with 3 bolts. Don't know if it's been ticked but it's about 27.

Trad mixte 3
Atridae The Flight Deck
27 Have a Good Flight Direct Start

Start as for Jetlag, 2m Left of the original but finish up HaGF instead. Still great climbing even though the Jetlag finish has been added.

FA: Kim Carigan, 1984

Sportive 20m
27 Detestes

Start between 'Orestes' & 'Plimsoll Line'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

Trad mixte 15m, 6
Atridae Agamemnon Area
27 Love That Pain

Start around R from T. Rightwards crack to rest, L into hanging groove (BR), orange wall then L arete.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Steve Monks, 1985

Trad mixte 40m, 1
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Steel Delinquency Pinnacle
27 Down To Zero

Short flake, then up wall past 2 RB and small gear to DRB.

Start: Start on ledge 5m around R of MS.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

Trad mixte 10m, 2
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle
27 Les Memoires d'un Ane

Thin and glassy. Start 2m R of The Philosopher. Climb past 2 bolts, join The Philosopher, then at first horizontal traverse right to flake (FH) then up to anchor.

FA: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1984

Trad mixte 18m, 3
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Deep Freeze Wall
27 Chill Pill

Face R of Handshake. At the second bolt (hard to clip) move L and into Handshake. The direct finish is an open project - maybe 30ish?

FA: Gordon Poultney, 2011

Trad mixte 15m, 4
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls
27 Exodus 2.5

At the top of the crux of Exodus II, break right to a 2nd bolt, then up and right to a 3rd bolt (past undercling pocket). Upon reaching the edge of the crack weakness (Copyright), cut back left via yet another boulder problem up the unlikely headwall. Sustained power.

FA: Dave Jones

Sportive 20m, 4
Central Gully Upper Central Gully The Torture Chamber
V6 1) two small edges
Bloc
V7 4) Out thin seam
Bloc
{US} V6 6) big dyno
Bloc
Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress
27 R Ride Like the Wind Direct Finish

As for RLTW, but when you hit the top break, gear up for a final boulder problem! Heartbreaking, mainly because if you fall off the hard finish (well protected), you have to go back down and re-climb the the real business! Established at grade 27 - you might wonder why it was ever downgraded.

Start: As for RLTW.

FA: Gordon Poulteney, 1992

Trad mixte 30m, 3
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully
27 Forced Entry Direct

Start 1m right of Dreadnought Variant and climb up past small pocket to slopey horizontal breaks. Past 2 bolts then traverse right to join No Exit near the top, and finish as for that route.

FA: Stuart Williams, 1991

Trad mixte 9m, 2
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fermé Fang Buttress
27 Hyperlink

Up SDS then head R past a new FH on the bulge (which nearly retrobolts Strolling) and finish up 'Ergonomics'.

Start: As for SDS.

FFA: Gordon Poultney, 2005

Trad mixte 25m, 6
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall
V6 V6
Bloc 4m
V7 Trackside Reverse

Crux pull on of ‘10’ then press left to climb left arete. Cool.

Bloc 2m
V7 10

Sit start at low flake, press left to side pull and dyno to top. Right arete is out.

Bloc 3m
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Oops boulder
V7 V7

On the trackside of the boulder. Gain vague scooped arete from the left

Bloc
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Krondorff Boulder
V6 3

Steep arete facing the creek

Bloc
V6 9

Sit start. Up then a few moves on the lip of the roof

Bloc 3m
V7 11

Sit start. R hand on sloper and L hand on Gaston. Through R side of roof

Bloc
V7 12

Sit Start. Start under R of roof then out and up seam and slab

Bloc
Bluffs Denim Wall
27 London Calling

Start 1.5m R of Denim. Up thin seam to traverse line, R and up to RB, diagonally R to 2nd RB, then trend L to 3rd RB (despite the unfortunate chipped hold, this is still the crux).

Berlin Calling (29*) is a linkup of Balance of Power into London Calling (Nathan Hoette Nov '04).

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

Trad mixte 23m, 3
Bluffs Bluff Major Blockbuster Ledge
27 Taylor Made

Up GtAT for a few metres then straight up the line of bolts into the finish of QV.

Start: Start as for GtAT.

FA: Nick White & Andy Pollitt, 1990

Trad mixte 30m, 4
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face
27 Anxiety Neurosis Original Line

As for AN but follow the original aid line up leftwards from the 2nd FH - don't drop down to get to the arete. Bouldery. Start as for AN.

Sportive 20m, 2
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face
27 FinaI Departure

Start as for Station to Station. Up StS until it heads to the arete then move R and up past 3 more bolts to loweroffs.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Trad mixte 27m, 7
27 Requited

Start at the top of Unrequited. Straight up the awesome headwall past bolts, to the Despatched lower-off.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Trad mixte 30m, 2
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
27 Fox on a Hot Thin Roof

A very technical ceiling. Take a #4 Friend for the wide slot at the end. The prominent roof crack left of The Good... Scramble up to belay just below roof. Undercling left past two fixed wires to the wide slot. Back aid to descend (no in-situ anchor).

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Peter Watson, 1977

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1979

Trad 25m
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Crankshaft Boulder
V6 Crankshaft Traverse
Bloc
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Gonzo Boulder
V6 Traverse
Bloc
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders The Chicken Boulder
V6 Attack a Helpless Chicken
Bloc 6m
Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall
27 Body Recession

Climb past 3 bolts (and sometimes a fixed wire) to a lower-off.

Start: Bounding the L end of the grotto is an overhanging orange wall.

FA: Martin Scheel, 1989

Trad mixte 15m, 3
27 Hot Coq

Up the orange wall past 5 inconspicuous carrots. Apparently, finishing directly past the last one is the most 'enjoyable' way to do the route.

Start: At the R edge of the grotto, 2m R of Catch 22/This.

FA: Nick White, 1992

Sportive 15m, 5
Voodoo Area Rats Alley
27 Crystal Sausage

Steep bolted wall R of 'Tarantula'. Nobody ever does it because it's chipped and the bolts look rubbish, hence nobody knows if there is a rap anchor at the top (is there a rap anchor at the top?)

FA: Ant Prehn, 1990

Trad 25m
Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress
27 Fatted Calf
Trad mixte 30m, 4
Voodoo Area Waste of Space Gully
27 Double Negative

Équip.: CJ, 2022

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 9 Nov. 2022

Sportive 10m, 3
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie
27 Picking Winners

Start 2m L of UCRN.

  1. 30m (27) The glassy slab becomes a R-leaning flake, which turns into a stomach-churning overhung offwidth, and then steep discontinuous pods, and finally into the R chimney.

  2. 20m (23) Step R under the bulge and up the bulging hand crack.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff (alt), 1979

Trad 50m, 2
27 Escape & Enter

The obvious link of Escape start into the last half of Break and Enter. Start as for Escape (original bridging start), then break right and power up through the final boulder problem of B&E. Short, but consistently powerful climbing to the very last move. The route grade is open for debate given it’s basically a V7/8.

Trad mixte 16m, 1
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face
27 Mind Arthritis

An outstanding climb taking the major line on the South Face. Quite finger intensive and very exposed. Originally climbed with a piton as the last gear - though this has now somewhat controversially been replaced with a bolt. A small cam can be placed in the top runout.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1985

Sportive 25m, 5
27 Senile Dementia

Starts as for Delirium Tremens but at the roof breaks right and traverse a couple of metres before launching straight up the face. Reportedly a tad runout in places, and rarely repeated.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

Trad 35m
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle
27 Flights of Fancy Direct

Start: Start at crack directly below the lone bolt in the middle of the south face (facing 'Heckle' and Jeckle) and head straight up past big dyno.

The original route by Steve Monks traversed right at first break, up arete then back left somewhere at 25.

FA: Steve Monks, 1986

Trad 20m
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area
27 Twinkle Toes

Supposed to be desperate. Start as for 'Adios Amigos' then move right and up past 2 BR

FA: Mark Moorhead & Chris Shepherd, 1983

Trad mixte 20m, 2
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully
27 Elongate

Very reachy. Climb the wall left of White Heat.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1983

Trad mixte 25m, 2
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully
27 Smear Campaign

Start as for Lunatic, continue up the arete and then tend R. Has it's own chains. 27 in both current guidebooks.

FA: Gordon Poultney, 2010

Trad mixte 20m, 6
27 Yesterday Direct

A good route to try if Ingvar's variant is out of reach.

Step off the boulder about 8m up the hill from 'Yesterday', traverse left 3m to a seam. Up via two ringbolts to join 'Yesterday'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Trad mixte 20m, 2
27 Genug

A few desperate bouldery moves.

Face 10 metres right of Use No Chooks.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Trad mixte 15m, 2
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Boulders Finalgon Boulder
V6 V6 arete

Sit start arete and head straight up.

Bloc
V7 Finalgon

Left to right traverse. Optional sit start adds value but doesn't change grade.

Bloc
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Kitten Wall
27 Security Jerks

As steep as they come. Start below the "Beware of this Block" message. Tricky slabbing just to the left of the original start via sidepull edges and slot avoids the use of the suspicious block.

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984

Trad 20m
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Tjuringa Wall
27 Working for the Man
1 27 45m
2 19 30m
3 12 45m

Perhaps the most preposterous traverse at the mount. done ground-up in a push. Triple rack up to #6 mandatory, ledge optional but recommended.

  1. 45m (27) Climb the entire sideways journey of Tunnel of Corgis, but instead of going up, strenuously down climb Stigmatised (the higher traverse under the roof may go?), to continue on past Celluloid Heroes, Surprise and a moist fern garden to collapse at the Bad Cheques anchor. Be aware it is not possible to safely protect the second during the down climb.

  2. 30m (19) Links into Eclipse. Up towards the roof, past Tjuringa’s DRB to a natural belay at the stance halfway up Common Knowledge.

  3. 45m (12) Psyche up for even more traversing (!!!). the final glory slab awaits. step down into the alcove (pre-order your pub meal now), then climb past In Lieu, and along the ramp to finish at the tree.

FA: Christopher Glastonbury & Chris Abernethy, 21 Oct. 2021

Trad 120m, 3
27 R Out of Pocket

Up Credit Crunch, then join MSTK for a few meters, then into cheque your pockets.

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 17 Juin 2023

Trad mixte 15m, 3
27 My Soul to Keep

An ultra technical piece of climbing which is bold in places.

Climb 'Odd Spots' for 5metres . Place a high runner in Strangers Eliminate then reverse a move and make a rising traverse rightwards, crossing 'Bad Cheques' then joining 'Tjuringa' at its midway flake. At the flake step down a move and continue traversing right past to 2 bolts to the undercling feature, before heading straight up to join 'Tjuringa' at its first belay. This last section is bold 21 in its own right.

Double ropes are essential. Note: 50m ropes may not be long enough to lower the climber back to the ground therefore use double 60m ropes. HB 1, 'Camelot' 1, BD Hexentric 1 are essential gear.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2006

Trad mixte 35m, 4
27 Akakage

Like its neighbours, a very rarely repeated route that drives straight through the belay of 'Common Knowledge'. 'Fantastic' position and great rock, but a ridiculously hard fingery crux that has baffled quite a few aspiring suitors. Two bolts protect the business.

FA: Masanon Hoshina, 1988

Trad mixte 30m, 3
The Watchtower Faces Watchtower Area Boulders Moody Blues Boulder
V6 Moody Blues

FA: Andy Pollitt

Bloc
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall
27 Mormon Poultry

Two bolts left of fortress lead into FYN DS

FA: Simon Weill

Trad
27 The Fortress RHV

Start up Fortress to 2nd bolt, then right and up trying very hard to avoid going back L into the original (and better) version.

FA: George Fieg (?), 1995

Trad mixte 12m, 2
Northern Group Mysteries Wall
27 Tigger

Old Paul Hoskins project re-equipped and sent. Ultra-smeary!

Start: Start on left side of 'Mysteries Wall' proper.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004

Trad mixte 12m, 2
27 Model Phantom

Thin stuff.

Up 'Blue-Eyed and Blond' then veer left into the crack of Mysteries. Undercling the crack to gain gravelly crimps past two bolts, then easier ground above.

FA: Geoff Weigand., 1985

Trad mixte 25m, 2
27 Pooh Sticks

Nowadays largely ignored but still worth doing in it's own right. Originally started by stepping off the pillar into the line but now incorporates the direct start from the ground. Where the connection moves left into 'Anus Horribilus', continue straight up via the traditionally protected arete.

FA: Roland Foster, 1989

Trad mixte 22m, 3
Northern Group High Dive Gully
27 Power Corruption and Lies

"Power" your way along the slopey traverse line 4m down and right of "Cellular Destruction" to a bolt.

Now up past second bolt to letterbox slot (#0.75 BD cam or better, #0.1 BD cam in the smaller gap leaving space for your hands).

Up (being careful not to escape out R to the easier ground on the arete and incur the ridicule of the climbing community) into Cellular Destruction at the end of its traverse and finish as for it, complete with its hideous mantle.

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1985

Trad 15m
Far North Lower Curtain Wall
27 Bada boom

Climb Cut Short for a few metres until you can gain the hanging orange/grey wall to the left. Up this on delightful incuts, slopes, razors, and pockets to gain a series of beautiful pockets above an orange overlap. Make a span leftwards above the lip to pick up a vertical seam through a bulge then stagger over this to join Tapestry at the end of its traverse. Finish up Tapestry.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

Trad mixte 30m, 5
Far North Upper Curtain Wall
27 Encore

Start as for Cliffhanger. Continue straight up passing a bolt. At the roof reverse Curtain Call for 3m. Gain the headwall above via a neat pocket sequence (crux) passing two bolts.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

Trad mixte 30m, 3
Far North Far North Bouldering Caving Boulder
V7 Traverse
Bloc
V7 Sit start
Bloc
V7 V7 Problem
Bloc

Affichant les 66 voies total.

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