Affichant les 66 voies total.
Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Popularité | ||
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Fermé Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag | |||||
27 | ★ All Decked Out
This is the 2 FHs up the nice little face trending L from 'Deck Games'. Start: As for 'Deck Games'. FA: Gordon Poultney, 2000 | 12m, 2 | |||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork | |||||
27 | ★ Spinning Around the Drain
Old James Falla project with 3 bolts. Don't know if it's been ticked but it's about 27. | 3 | |||
Atridae The Flight Deck | |||||
27 | ★★ Have a Good Flight Direct Start
Start as for Jetlag, 2m Left of the original but finish up HaGF instead. Still great climbing even though the Jetlag finish has been added. FA: Kim Carigan, 1984 | 20m | |||
27 | ★ Detestes
Start between 'Orestes' & 'Plimsoll Line'. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986 | 15m, 6 | |||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | |||||
27 | Love That Pain
Start around R from T. Rightwards crack to rest, L into hanging groove (BR), orange wall then L arete. FA: Kim Carrigan & Steve Monks, 1985 | 40m, 1 | |||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Steel Delinquency Pinnacle | |||||
27 | ★ Down To Zero
Short flake, then up wall past 2 RB and small gear to DRB. Start: Start on ledge 5m around R of MS. FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981 | 10m, 2 | |||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | |||||
27 | ★★ Les Memoires d'un Ane
Thin and glassy. Start 2m R of The Philosopher. Climb past 2 bolts, join The Philosopher, then at first horizontal traverse right to flake (FH) then up to anchor. FA: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1984 | 18m, 3 | |||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Deep Freeze Wall | |||||
27 | Chill Pill
Face R of Handshake. At the second bolt (hard to clip) move L and into Handshake. The direct finish is an open project - maybe 30ish? FA: Gordon Poultney, 2011 | 15m, 4 | |||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls | |||||
27 | ★★★ Exodus 2.5
At the top of the crux of Exodus II, break right to a 2nd bolt, then up and right to a 3rd bolt (past undercling pocket). Upon reaching the edge of the crack weakness (Copyright), cut back left via yet another boulder problem up the unlikely headwall. Sustained power. FA: Dave Jones | 20m, 4 | |||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully The Torture Chamber | |||||
V6 | ★ 1) two small edges
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V7 | ★★ 4) Out thin seam
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{US} V6 | ★ 6) big dyno
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Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress | |||||
27 R | ★★ Ride Like the Wind Direct Finish
As for RLTW, but when you hit the top break, gear up for a final boulder problem! Heartbreaking, mainly because if you fall off the hard finish (well protected), you have to go back down and re-climb the the real business! Established at grade 27 - you might wonder why it was ever downgraded. Start: As for RLTW. FA: Gordon Poulteney, 1992 | 30m, 3 | |||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully | |||||
27 | ★ Forced Entry Direct
Start 1m right of Dreadnought Variant and climb up past small pocket to slopey horizontal breaks. Past 2 bolts then traverse right to join No Exit near the top, and finish as for that route. FA: Stuart Williams, 1991 | 9m, 2 | |||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fermé Fang Buttress | |||||
27 | ★★ Hyperlink
Up SDS then head R past a new FH on the bulge (which nearly retrobolts Strolling) and finish up 'Ergonomics'. Start: As for SDS. FFA: Gordon Poultney, 2005 | 25m, 6 | |||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall | |||||
V6 | ★★ V6
| 4m | |||
V7 | ★★ Trackside Reverse
Crux pull on of ‘10’ then press left to climb left arete. Cool. | 2m | |||
V7 | ★★ 10
Sit start at low flake, press left to side pull and dyno to top. Right arete is out. | 3m | |||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Oops boulder | |||||
V7 | V7
On the trackside of the boulder. Gain vague scooped arete from the left | ||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Krondorff Boulder | |||||
V6 | 3
Steep arete facing the creek | ||||
V6 | ★★ 9
Sit start. Up then a few moves on the lip of the roof | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★★ 11
Sit start. R hand on sloper and L hand on Gaston. Through R side of roof | ||||
V7 | 12
Sit Start. Start under R of roof then out and up seam and slab | ||||
Bluffs Denim Wall | |||||
27 | ★★ London Calling
Start 1.5m R of Denim. Up thin seam to traverse line, R and up to RB, diagonally R to 2nd RB, then trend L to 3rd RB (despite the unfortunate chipped hold, this is still the crux). Berlin Calling (29*) is a linkup of Balance of Power into London Calling (Nathan Hoette Nov '04). FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981 | 23m, 3 | |||
Bluffs Bluff Major Blockbuster Ledge | |||||
27 | Taylor Made
Up GtAT for a few metres then straight up the line of bolts into the finish of QV. Start: Start as for GtAT. FA: Nick White & Andy Pollitt, 1990 | 30m, 4 | |||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||
27 | Anxiety Neurosis Original Line
As for AN but follow the original aid line up leftwards from the 2nd FH - don't drop down to get to the arete. Bouldery. Start as for AN. | 20m, 2 | |||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | |||||
27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure
Start as for Station to Station. Up StS until it heads to the arete then move R and up past 3 more bolts to loweroffs. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 27m, 7 | |||
27 | ★★ Requited
Start at the top of Unrequited. Straight up the awesome headwall past bolts, to the Despatched lower-off. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 30m, 2 | |||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | |||||
27 | ★ Fox on a Hot Thin Roof
A very technical ceiling. Take a #4 Friend for the wide slot at the end. The prominent roof crack left of The Good... Scramble up to belay just below roof. Undercling left past two fixed wires to the wide slot. Back aid to descend (no in-situ anchor). FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Peter Watson, 1977 FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1979 | 25m | |||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Crankshaft Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★ Crankshaft Traverse
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Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Gonzo Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★ Traverse
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Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders The Chicken Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Attack a Helpless Chicken
| 6m | |||
Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | |||||
27 | ★★ Body Recession
Climb past 3 bolts (and sometimes a fixed wire) to a lower-off. Start: Bounding the L end of the grotto is an overhanging orange wall. FA: Martin Scheel, 1989 | 15m, 3 | |||
27 | ★★ Hot Coq
Up the orange wall past 5 inconspicuous carrots. Apparently, finishing directly past the last one is the most 'enjoyable' way to do the route. Start: At the R edge of the grotto, 2m R of Catch 22/This. FA: Nick White, 1992 | 15m, 5 | |||
Voodoo Area Rats Alley | |||||
27 | Crystal Sausage
Steep bolted wall R of 'Tarantula'. Nobody ever does it because it's chipped and the bolts look rubbish, hence nobody knows if there is a rap anchor at the top (is there a rap anchor at the top?) FA: Ant Prehn, 1990 | 25m | |||
Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress | |||||
27 | Fatted Calf
| 30m, 4 | |||
Voodoo Area Waste of Space Gully | |||||
27 | ★ Double Negative
Équip.: CJ, 2022 FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 9 Nov. 2022 | 10m, 3 | |||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | |||||
27 | ★★ Picking Winners
Start 2m L of UCRN.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff (alt), 1979 | 50m, 2 | |||
27 | ★★ Escape & Enter
The obvious link of Escape start into the last half of Break and Enter. Start as for Escape (original bridging start), then break right and power up through the final boulder problem of B&E. Short, but consistently powerful climbing to the very last move. The route grade is open for debate given it’s basically a V7/8. | 16m, 1 | |||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face | |||||
27 | ★★★ Mind Arthritis
An outstanding climb taking the major line on the South Face. Quite finger intensive and very exposed. Originally climbed with a piton as the last gear - though this has now somewhat controversially been replaced with a bolt. A small cam can be placed in the top runout. FA: Chris Shepherd, 1985 | 25m, 5 | |||
27 | ★ Senile Dementia
Starts as for Delirium Tremens but at the roof breaks right and traverse a couple of metres before launching straight up the face. Reportedly a tad runout in places, and rarely repeated. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985 | 35m | |||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle | |||||
27 | ★ Flights of Fancy Direct
Start: Start at crack directly below the lone bolt in the middle of the south face (facing 'Heckle' and Jeckle) and head straight up past big dyno. The original route by Steve Monks traversed right at first break, up arete then back left somewhere at 25. FA: Steve Monks, 1986 | 20m | |||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area | |||||
27 | Twinkle Toes
Supposed to be desperate. Start as for 'Adios Amigos' then move right and up past 2 BR FA: Mark Moorhead & Chris Shepherd, 1983 | 20m, 2 | |||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | |||||
27 | ★★ Elongate
Very reachy. Climb the wall left of White Heat. FA: Mark Moorhead, 1983 | 25m, 2 | |||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully | |||||
27 | ★★ Smear Campaign
Start as for Lunatic, continue up the arete and then tend R. Has it's own chains. 27 in both current guidebooks. FA: Gordon Poultney, 2010 | 20m, 6 | |||
27 | ★★ Yesterday Direct
A good route to try if Ingvar's variant is out of reach. Step off the boulder about 8m up the hill from 'Yesterday', traverse left 3m to a seam. Up via two ringbolts to join 'Yesterday'. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 20m, 2 | |||
27 | Genug
A few desperate bouldery moves. Face 10 metres right of Use No Chooks. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 15m, 2 | |||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Boulders Finalgon Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★ V6 arete
Sit start arete and head straight up. | ||||
V7 | ★★ Finalgon
Left to right traverse. Optional sit start adds value but doesn't change grade. | ||||
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Kitten Wall | |||||
27 | ★ Security Jerks
As steep as they come. Start below the "Beware of this Block" message. Tricky slabbing just to the left of the original start via sidepull edges and slot avoids the use of the suspicious block. FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984 | 20m | |||
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Tjuringa Wall | |||||
27 | ★ Working for the Man
1
27
45m
2
19
30m
3
12
45m
Perhaps the most preposterous traverse at the mount. done ground-up in a push. Triple rack up to #6 mandatory, ledge optional but recommended.
FA: Christopher Glastonbury & Chris Abernethy, 21 Oct. 2021 | 120m, 3 | |||
27 R | ★ Out of Pocket
Up Credit Crunch, then join MSTK for a few meters, then into cheque your pockets. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 17 Juin 2023 | 15m, 3 | |||
27 | ★★★ My Soul to Keep
An ultra technical piece of climbing which is bold in places. Climb 'Odd Spots' for 5metres . Place a high runner in Strangers Eliminate then reverse a move and make a rising traverse rightwards, crossing 'Bad Cheques' then joining 'Tjuringa' at its midway flake. At the flake step down a move and continue traversing right past to 2 bolts to the undercling feature, before heading straight up to join 'Tjuringa' at its first belay. This last section is bold 21 in its own right. Double ropes are essential. Note: 50m ropes may not be long enough to lower the climber back to the ground therefore use double 60m ropes. HB 1, 'Camelot' 1, BD Hexentric 1 are essential gear. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2006 | 35m, 4 | |||
27 | ★★ Akakage
Like its neighbours, a very rarely repeated route that drives straight through the belay of 'Common Knowledge'. 'Fantastic' position and great rock, but a ridiculously hard fingery crux that has baffled quite a few aspiring suitors. Two bolts protect the business. FA: Masanon Hoshina, 1988 | 30m, 3 | |||
The Watchtower Faces Watchtower Area Boulders Moody Blues Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★ Moody Blues
FA: Andy Pollitt | ||||
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | |||||
27 | ★ Mormon Poultry
Two bolts left of fortress lead into FYN DS FA: Simon Weill | ||||
27 | ★ The Fortress RHV
Start up Fortress to 2nd bolt, then right and up trying very hard to avoid going back L into the original (and better) version. FA: George Fieg (?), 1995 | 12m, 2 | |||
Northern Group Mysteries Wall | |||||
27 | ★★ Tigger
Old Paul Hoskins project re-equipped and sent. Ultra-smeary! Start: Start on left side of 'Mysteries Wall' proper. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004 | 12m, 2 | |||
27 | ★★ Model Phantom
Thin stuff. Up 'Blue-Eyed and Blond' then veer left into the crack of Mysteries. Undercling the crack to gain gravelly crimps past two bolts, then easier ground above. FA: Geoff Weigand., 1985 | 25m, 2 | |||
27 | ★★ Pooh Sticks
Nowadays largely ignored but still worth doing in it's own right. Originally started by stepping off the pillar into the line but now incorporates the direct start from the ground. Where the connection moves left into 'Anus Horribilus', continue straight up via the traditionally protected arete. FA: Roland Foster, 1989 | 22m, 3 | |||
Northern Group High Dive Gully | |||||
27 | ★★ Power Corruption and Lies
"Power" your way along the slopey traverse line 4m down and right of "Cellular Destruction" to a bolt. Now up past second bolt to letterbox slot (#0.75 BD cam or better, #0.1 BD cam in the smaller gap leaving space for your hands). Up (being careful not to escape out R to the easier ground on the arete and incur the ridicule of the climbing community) into Cellular Destruction at the end of its traverse and finish as for it, complete with its hideous mantle. FA: Geoff Weigand, 1985 | 15m | |||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||
27 | ★★★ Bada boom
Climb Cut Short for a few metres until you can gain the hanging orange/grey wall to the left. Up this on delightful incuts, slopes, razors, and pockets to gain a series of beautiful pockets above an orange overlap. Make a span leftwards above the lip to pick up a vertical seam through a bulge then stagger over this to join Tapestry at the end of its traverse. Finish up Tapestry. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009 | 30m, 5 | |||
Far North Upper Curtain Wall | |||||
27 | ★ Encore
Start as for Cliffhanger. Continue straight up passing a bolt. At the roof reverse Curtain Call for 3m. Gain the headwall above via a neat pocket sequence (crux) passing two bolts. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009 | 30m, 3 | |||
Far North Far North Bouldering Caving Boulder | |||||
V7 | ★★ Traverse
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V7 | ★★ Sit start
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V7 | V7 Problem
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Affichant les 66 voies total.