Aide

Celebrity Crags

Saison

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Résumé

A series of short walls tucked around and inside a series of shady canyons. Very easy access. Jimmy Cliff & Sharon Stone are the sectors most people visit.

Description

The nearest public toilets are back in town behind the New Ivanhoe Hotel, or alternative toilets are at BP Servo, Sutton Park, Jubilee Park Playground or at Shipley Carpark. Do not crap ANYWHERE in the rainforest canyon environment of these crags or piss on residents gardens at the carpark (yes, this has happened).

Limit. de l'accès

This is a shared use area with local residents and visiting bushwalkers. Don't spoil the place.

ACANSW has been advised by Blue Mtns City Council that car parking congestion along Burton St on weekends and pubic holiday periods is an access concern. Residents are lobbying Council to "solve" this issue and it is in climber's best interests to try and limit the amount of cars parked on Burton Street. Carpool if you can, walk or ride a bike if you are a local, park further away to spread out the congestion - Wombat Street is empty and only 100m away. Whatever you do, please don't park across driveways, party in the carpark, dump rubbish or otherwise make the residents life unpleasant.

Approche

Park at the west end of Burton St Blackheath. Follow the bushwalkers' trail, signposted to Porters Pass, for 10 minutes down into a ferny creek. Rock Hudson is the overhang cliff on the other (north) side of the creek, immediately above the track. To get to Jimmy Cliff where the most popular climbs are, follow the walker's trail across the creek (ignore the "lost climbers" trail which stays on the left/south side of the creek, the first bit is muddy and sketchy), walk downstream beneath Rock Hudson for 30m, then leave the bushwalkers' trail and cross back over to the left/south side of the creek just above the waterfall. The climbers' path leads another 30m downstream to the ledge/slot/crawl (further details below).

Éthique hérité de Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Historique

Graphique de l'historique des voies

Majority developed in the mid 90s

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Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Auteur·e·s: Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Auteur·e·s: Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

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Mar 25 Avr
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