Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | Grimpeur | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Ven 15 Jan 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Above the private sector | ||||||
V5 |
★★★ 50 calories in 50 seconds
![]() I love this thing. It's such a grovel-fest every time and gives nothing. I had a bunch of attempts from the inverted sit start but no joy. I got the top clean on one attempt from the stand start. look forward to linking these | 3m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Ven 8 Jan 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | ||||||
V6 |
★★★ Fight club
![]() First proper session on this unique and burly piece. For much of the 3 hours we were here it was sprinkly mist above yet FC remained dry. Worked the start thanks to Skippy's hard earned beta and got myself into the jams which felt way more comfortable than the more marginal crux sequence. Elated to get the send but dampened a little given Skippy was all but on the send train before pulling up just short after a very solid session. | 5m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
V6 |
★★★ Fight club
![]() Another misty drizzly day, early start with 5 pads and a rope not sure what we'd do and FC was in good condition. A wicked super session, after only one or two attempts and I was back to my furthest point again - and for all the other attempts I don't think I ever didn't get back to this point, the first crux is now dialed. After Ben showed the way I got on just after the first crux and linked all the remaining moves to the nose-twiddle finish on my first go, and after that I thought I had it in the bag as I could now do every move. Tried linking it from the start, and then again and again, with longer breaks and more prep between them slowly mangling my fists and ankles and draining the energy reserves. After one really long rest refuel and complete re-tape I had one last burn and gave it everything, and got further than ever, only 3 moves from the finish, but was totally spanked. Got some wild toe and shin cramps afterward. Heaps of hand, wrist and ankle bruises, right wrist is quite swollen now. Masochism as its finest | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Dim 3 Jan 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
North rim boulders Perfect cleavage area | ||||||
V5 |
★★ Hermit's Hovel
![]() A cool little problem sent in between drizzles. | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Jeu 31 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
North rim boulders Perfect cleavage area | ||||||
V4 |
★★ Christmas Custard
![]() Spent an age working this on first attempt. Got it on my second with Benji's beta. | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
V3 |
★★ Consumation
![]() | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V2 |
★★ Diamond in the rough
![]() | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V4 |
★★ Christmas Custard
![]() Had a few goes and with Benji's beta I can statically press through the crux but come up literally millimetres short of the jug finish! Moving my right hand in further puts me off balance. I'm probably going to need to stem my right foot out. It's a fairly big fall | 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V3 |
★★ Consumation
![]() 3 attempts, crux is fairly low on the left | 3m | ★ Good | |||
V2 |
★★ Diamond in the rough
![]() | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Mar 29 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | ||||||
V6 |
★★★ Fight club
![]() Solo mission with 3 pads and a portable fan. It started sprinkling as I packed the car and I drove through a couple showers. The rock was still good and had a great sess with more than a dozen burns and another foot of progress. Past the crux (first?) and into decent fist jam rest and inverted. Another 2 foot of slightly flaring hands and fists remains. The sky opened as I packed up and I walked out in drenching rain. | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sam 26 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | ||||||
V5 |
★★★ Evan Stone
![]() A lot of debris at the moment, needs another good excavation. Got it second go but the stand start takes out the hardest move. | 4m | ★★★ Classic | |||
V6 |
★★★ Fight club
![]() Another scout just to see how spoogy it was, totally mint so shoe'd up and ended up progressing to a new hight point all the way to the fist jam and then tenuously matched. Was right on the index knuckle, if I'd sunk it just an inch deeper I think it would have been done!? | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sam 26 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Below the bridge | ||||||
V4 |
★★★ Shawarma
![]() After the uninspired start to the day, I was stoked to jump on and statically move through the crux first go and essentially fell of the top in surprise. Got it very smoothly on 3rd go | 3m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sam 26 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
South-Western Boulders Quickdraw Area | ||||||
V4 |
★★★ Quickdraw roof
![]() Only one go, got to last traverse move. Time to chase some shade | 3m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sam 26 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
South-Western Boulders Crack Boulder | ||||||
V3 |
★★★ The crack
![]() Start felt hard, top move kept spooging | 4m | ||||
Dim 20 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | ||||||
V6 |
★★★ Fight club (Flight club)
![]() Finally got a tickle on this thing before the trickles got intense and the rock soaked. | 5m | ||||
Dim 20 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Above the private sector | ||||||
24 |
★★★ The Elver Escape
![]() Had one go at this as it started spitting and slowly fell away in no-mans land. Good to see Benji get oh so close. | 5m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
V5 |
★★★ 50 calories in 50 seconds
![]() You get your moneys worth on this one. This grovel fest is an instant classic. Best attempt was my first go. Knee bars, stacked hands, shoulder jams, balancy feet, inverted moves and it's only 3m tall! | 3m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
V2 |
★★ Stale Pringles
![]() | 4m | ★ Good | |||
Dim 20 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Yoda's cave | ||||||
V3 |
★★★ Dagobah
![]() Such a good number to bring on the burn. I find this a pretty hard route to flash as a warm-up cause of the intense flash pump. Got it on my 4th attempt and again on the 5th | 10m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
V1 |
★★ Yoda's mantle
![]() A little mantle practice in-between Dagobah runs. | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Dim 20 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | ||||||
V6 |
★★★ Fight club
![]() An optimistic scouting missing turned into an attempt. It started sprinkling again by the time we got setup and only 1 proper burn, carefully stepping on the dry bits, but after a couple goes we were just sitting in the drizzle with soggy pads. | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Dim 20 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Above the private sector | ||||||
V5 |
★★★ 50 calories in 50 seconds
![]() Water level was fairly high into the cave so did a bit of rock building first. Afters the boys had a few goes thought I should too. Probably 5 or so goes, starting from the higher fist jam, had one fairly decent go (the first?) where I got pretty high and kinda arm barring. After some discussion we have consensus that this is not a V3 and probably more like V5 | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V2 |
★★ No big deal
![]() Was much more interesting in a swim, a gara swim is long over due. Only a fortnight ago it was almost drought level trickle again but now its magic. (I'm sun burnt now). Did a quick lap as a warmup | 4m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Dim 20 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Yoda's cave | ||||||
V1 |
★★ Yoda's mantle
![]() Through the mantle I felt the slight twinge in my right shoulder still from a week or so ago at the wall | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V3 |
★★★ Dagobah
![]() Post storm humid conditions but we snuck out because its been forever and the covid gut needs to go. Super happy to resend this first go and even happier to do a second lap clean. | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Jeu 12 Nov. 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders The holy land | ||||||
VB |
★ Round rail
![]() | 2m | ||||
V0 |
★ Prayer note crack
![]() | 2m | ||||
V1 |
★★ The western wall
![]() | 2m | ||||
V0 |
★ Ostrovsky
![]() | 2m | ||||
V0 |
★ Jug rail
![]() | 3m | ||||
V2 |
★ Cracked vessel
![]() | 2m | ||||
Jeu 12 Nov. 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Moonscape area | ||||||
V3 |
★★ In plain sight
![]() | 4m | ||||
V5 |
★★ In plain sight SDS
![]() | 4m | ||||
V0 |
★ Easy target
![]() | 3m | ||||
V3 |
★ Moonrise
![]() | 3m | ||||
V4 |
★★ 25% crack
![]() | 3m | ||||
V5 |
★★ The Landing Zone
![]() | 3m | ||||
Jeu 12 Nov. 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Below the bridge | ||||||
V2 |
★ Dr Nefario
![]() | 2m | ||||
V1 |
★★ Turbot St Exit
![]() | 4m | ||||
V0 |
★ Stuart
![]() | 4m | ||||
Mar 13 Oct. 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Illusion Buttress | ||||||
20 |
★ Heavy Metal - Direct Start
![]() waaaay harder (for me) than the indirect start. i onsighted the 19 and couldnt get up this on top rope, after being shown some beta. | 18m, 4 | Average | |||
19 |
★★ Heavy Metal
![]() my first granite climb and what a joy. standing and crimping on tiny flakes to gain nice ledges. well bolted except the last carrot seems to have popped out. this is no big deal as its on the easy slabby finish. | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mer 7 Oct. 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Illusion Buttress | ||||||
19 |
★★ Heavy Metal
![]() dear the person who hucked our stuff in the river - we will find you... | 18m, 5 | ||||
20 |
★ Heavy Metal - Direct Start
![]() and thank you for actually improving my book! | 18m, 4 | ||||
Lun 5 Oct. 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
South-Western Boulders Crack Boulder | ||||||
V2 |
★★ Old school
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Lun 5 Oct. 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
South-Western Boulders Flake Boulder | ||||||
V6 |
★★★ Unknown
![]() Pulled the top flake almost a cm away from the rock but it didn't brake somehow, be careful! | 4m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Lun 5 Oct. 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
South-Western Boulders Quickdraw Area | ||||||
V4 |
★ Quickdraw Low Traverse
![]() | 2m | ||||
V2 |
★★ Quickdraw traverse
![]() | 3m | ||||
V0 |
★ Quickdraw direct
![]() | 1m | ||||
V6 |
★★★ Shooter McGavin
![]() | 3m | ||||
Ven 2 Oct. 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Powers creek junction Shady looking rocks | ||||||
V2 |
★ Benjis crack
![]() Had a couple goes at this, hand was somewhat better at jambing but still not happy and so left it | ★ Good | ||||
Ven 2 Oct. 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Powers creek junction Big nugget | ||||||
V2 |
★ Tomato sauce
![]() Had a half committed go at this, my hand was really aching today and I feel like its gone backwards. Benji had a good crack at the arete and looks like it will go, needs 5 pads | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Dim 27 Sept 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | ||||||
V0 |
★ Rail
![]() | 3m | ★ Good | |||
V0 |
Rubik's cube
![]() Up to clean the west face top for benji, he is so close to getting this | 3m | ||||
Dim 27 Sept 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders The holy land | ||||||
V0 |
★ Prayer note crack
![]() | 2m | ||||
V0 |
★ Jug rail
![]() | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Ven 25 Sept 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas Bomb Town | ||||||
22 |
★★ Going to Sendsville
![]() A nice link in route. | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
16 |
★★ Chicken Wing to Bomb Town
![]() Not quite as 'classic' as we were expecting but still good fun. Even got to use the homemade BBB's (Bloody Big Bro's). | 12m | ★ Good | |||
24 |
★★★ Carp carp to Blimp town
![]() Spicy and very high quality. | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
16 |
★★ Chicken Wing to Bomb Town
![]() We'd eye this off while bouldering underneath it so didn't have a great sense of scale and thought it would be mostly offwidth and I was keen due to my hand still not being ready for crimping. It ended up climbing quite nicely, it felt like a small segment of a much larger multi pitch | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lun 21 Sept 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Big boulder bend The big boulders | ||||||
V6 |
★★★ Jugtastic
![]() Whoa Nelly. This thing is really beaut. I really wasn't feeling the sketchy desperate RH dyno with the shitty right foot (not sure why) so tried a semi-static LH and was pretty surprised/stoked when it stuck 3rd go from the crimp rail. Tried a few times to do the full link and got close. Maybe next time | 4m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
V2 |
★★ Preparation
![]() Like Skip said, very cool in its own right. | 2m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sam 19 Sept 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Big boulder bend The big boulders | ||||||
V6 |
★★★ Jugtastic
![]() Was looking forward to seeing the boys get a solid session on this while I was on camera duty. They made short work of it with different beta and super stoked to see this get sent. It still needs the full link up to be done | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Ven 18 Sept 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Powers creek junction Humpty Dumpty area | ||||||
V0 |
★★★ left jug rail
![]() What a cool route. Of course there were jams to be had and Skippy even invented a knee bar. | 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
★★ link up
![]() Quite a tricksy downclimb traverse crux. Will require better footwork. Big juggy foot at halfway is not in | 8m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V4 |
★★★ Not here to fuck spiders
![]() Wow, this thing is great! Gets a wee bit thought provoking at the business end but it is all there. | 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
V1 |
★★★ huge rail
![]() The first route on Spider Lover Wall with a nice stretchy committing move for the grade. | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
V2 |
★ Feeling of Presence
![]() more quality buldering at this little wall. A wee bit more committing given the tree/tricky pads. | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V0 |
★★★ left jug rail
![]() Didn't do the sit start, apparently I also went off route at the top (in a sea of jugs, jeez) | 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
V1 |
★★★ huge rail
![]() Still nursing a hand injury from the fall at the bungles so didn't intend to climb. Worth putting my shoes on | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sam 1 Août 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Hope Buttress | ||||||
18 |
★ Anticipation
![]() An interesting alternate finish to hope. | 20m | ★ Good | |||
16 |
★ Hope
![]() 2 laps - bottom crack section is good. Top is pretty easy | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Jeu 16 Juil 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central Boulders Little Ayers | ||||||
V3 |
★★★ Dynosoar
![]() This thing is great. | 3m | ★★★ Classic | |||
V3 |
★★ The jaws of death
![]() This thing is scary. | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V1 |
★★ The Crack
![]() This thing is freakin hard. | 4m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Jeu 16 Juil 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central Boulders Pseudoephedrine Boulders | ||||||
V3 |
★ Phenylephrine
![]() Exciting line with flexy rock and a high foot. | 5m | ★ Good | |||
V3 |
★★ Pseudoephedrine
![]() Always fun. | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
V8 |
★★ Body Darma
![]() Next.... | 4m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Jeu 16 Juil 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central Boulders Red Lichen Boulders | ||||||
V1 |
★★ R8
![]() | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V1 |
★★ R9
![]() | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V2 |
★ R7
![]() A sharp but good warm up. | 4m | ★ Good | |||
V4 |
★ Hitchhiker
![]() Cool move at half height. Another RL sharp route. | ★ Good | ||||
Jeu 16 Juil 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central Boulders Little Ayers | ||||||
V3 |
★★★ Dynosoar
![]() Had a couple throws at this, but was pretty tired and tips were sore so my heart wasn't really in it | 3m | ||||
V1 |
★★ The Crack
![]() But then I found some energy for working the sit start to this crack. I kinda thought I'd done this back in the day, it's a super burly layback and if you can get through the first 50cm then it eases up. First go I did maybe 4 moves and was totally thinking I'd get it again the second time, and then it just shut us both down. Had a bunch of goes. Sit start might be more like V4-V6 as a layback, maybe less using some inverted offwidth foot jams and chicken wings if you can figure it out | 4m | ||||
Jeu 16 Juil 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central Boulders Pseudoephedrine Boulders | ||||||
V3 |
★ Phenylephrine
![]() I did the start to this a new way about 1m left, left hand on the high curved gaston, right right step and then beastly press through. I did the move but couldn't then link it to the top. Did the normal way | 5m | ||||
V3 |
★★ Pseudoephedrine
![]() | 5m | ||||
V8 |
★★ Body Darma
![]() We tried super-gluing our finger tips which seemed to work pretty well consider how many attempts we had and didn't rage quit after the 3rd attempt. Its been yonks since I've been on this, I re-figured out how to hold the left crimp, the right is still fairly painful. | 4m | ||||
Jeu 16 Juil 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central Boulders Red Lichen Boulders | ||||||
V1 |
★★ R9
![]() | 4m | ||||
V0 |
R5
![]() | 2m | ||||
V3 V2 |
★ R7
![]() | 4m | ||||
V1 |
★★ R8
![]() | 4m | ||||
Jeu 9 Juil 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central Boulders Vulcanology area | ||||||
V6 |
★★★ Vulcanology
![]() Pretty wet and spoogy from an earlier shower. Had a couple of half hearted attempts before spooging off and calling it a day. | 4m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Jeu 9 Juil 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central Boulders Little Ayers | ||||||
V8 |
M13
![]() Ermagerd. Thin, bunched and sharp with crap feet. God knows how Cazza sent this thing. Not sure I could ever get through the traverse. | 4m | ||||
Jeu 9 Juil 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central Boulders Pseudoephedrine Boulders | ||||||
V8 |
★★ Body Darma
![]() It's been a while. Another four throws. Was stoked to land the chip twice and be reminded of the BD texture. | 4m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Jeu 9 Juil 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central Boulders Red Lichen Boulders | ||||||
V3 V2 |
★ R7
![]() Consensus says V3 not V0. A fun sharp flexy crimpfest. | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Jeu 2 Juil 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central Boulders Vulcanology area | ||||||
V6 |
★★★ Vulcanology
![]() Thought we'd have a few throws at this under headlamp to finish. Several very close attempts later it was Vulcanology that finished us. | 4m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Jeu 2 Juil 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Private sector | ||||||
V2 |
★★ Face hugger
![]() Great sequence of holds and interesting moves. | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
V2 |
Neomorph
![]() A wee bit loose and grassy but some cool moves and a thought provoking top out. | 3m | ★ Good |