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New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Northern Rivers

The Northern Rivers region of Northern NSW

Urbenville

An area providing a number of different crags, each with their own unique style, from steep thuggery to delicate friction slab.

Northern Rivers Urbenville
Battery Hill

The rock is igneous trachyte with sharp edges and pockets. There may still be some dodgy rock, so climb with care. The climbing is generally at less than vertical with steeper sections and bulges for interest. Most climbs have a section of small crystals and crimps to test your faith in sticky rubber. The friction quality is good, except in the lichen areas when damp.

A few pieces of natural protection, some (9) quickdraws and bolt plates are all that is required.

Routes are listed right to left. There are several great learner leads to build confidence and skill. The protection is usually well placed and more than adequate, although bolts are painted to camouflage with the stone so look closely to find where you're going. The first one is usually at about 4m and then about 3m apart.

There are two climbing faces separated by about 100m. All climbs from 'Flat and Useless' are on the second face.

Have fun!

The overall topo Has been made as a starting point, is very approximate and has been made without observing all of the routes. Please update it if you know exactly where the routes are. Thanks!

Northern Rivers Urbenville Battery Hill
19 Copper Top

5m right of Abandonment Issues. Follow left leaning line of 5 FH’s past flake and pockets. Shared belay with Abandonment Issues.

22 Abandonment Issues VS

Start 3m to the R of original. 2 FH's then up and L into Abandonment Issues.

21 Abandonment Issues

Steep start then nice slabby continuation.

21 Pink Bongo Bunny

Start 5m left of AI. Climb up past approx 6 FHs to DBB.

21 Amped Up

Start 15m left of Pink Bongo Bunny. Bouldery start to first FH. Continue up wall on easier holds for 3 FH's to dished area below headwall. Take a deep breath and blast up headwall for another 3 FH's to DBB. Some broken holds, might be a grade or two harder

21 Short Circuit

3m L of Amped Up is a line of 8 FH's. Thin holds through to 2nd FH. Then easier moves to base of headwall. Crimp your way over double bulge while keeping an eye out for the crucial jugs.

17 Cat In Nine

Great, long warm up. Climb through the crux in a corner at just above half height then easy climbing to anchor with fixed biners. Can be done with a 60m rope.

15 Matt The Energizer Man

Climb ramp on R of notch to FH on bulge at 4m. Up beside white streak past 3 FH to stance L of "Cat in Nine" corner. Step up L on short vertical wall with ace buckets (FH) to long slab (FH). Chain belay on headwall shared with "Live Contact".

17 Live Contact

Start on the right of the alcove and follow 3 hangers to steep wall (crux). 4 more hangers lead to chain belay.

14 Heated Exchange

Directly up slab L of notch past 4 FHs. Optional gear in pockets, too.

18 Who's the Bunny Now?

4m right of "Don't Trust the Bunny". Up past the bunny holes to 1st FH. Straight up crimping your way past a further 6 FHs to chains.

16 Don't Trust the Bunny

6m R of Yellow Brick Road. Up R of the rock orchards, through two steep sections on good holds. Thin, sustained climbing to clip 4 then easier to the top. 7 FHs to chains.

20 Yellow Brick Road

14m L of notch. Generic, but clean slab climbing past 3 black FHs to the base of bulge, which sports the final 2 FHs. This overhung section hosts a vital two-finger pocket and makes for quite a stunning conclusion. Finish at rap station at small stance. Watch out for ants in the pockets.

26 Snail Trail

R of Ginsu. Climbs the steep blank wall with the "snail trail" and 5 or 6 FHs, using very few very small crimps. Thin is the word.

2016: The 'snail trail' mark no longer exists - but you can't miss the route. Blankest, meanest bit of cliff that has bolts on it.

24 Ginsu

6m L of Yellow Brick Road beneath a hard, smooth wall. 2 Bolt runners in the first third (hard to see). Then four FHs to a chain belay.

25 Life Isn't All Ha Ha Hee Hee

2m L of Ginsu. Climbs the steeper section of the wall following 6 or 7 camouflaged FHs and a few crimps.

17 Variable Resistance

Sustained thin moves between 1st & 4th hangers give way to easier ground. Lay off the huge bollard to 5th hanger. Easy to chains. Solid 17.

19 Ginger and Treacle

1m R of flake. Up through pockets (optional gear) to slab and the first of 5 black FHs. Onto steep section with big holds (FH). Mount wall and pockety moves to reachy FH. Run it out a little to the security of a massive bucket below the 4th FH. Over bulge to last FH and a tricky mantle to hit the chains. Quite run out, could do with extra bolts to make it safe?

There is a 1m high and 2m wide flake of rock sitting about half a meter in front of the cliff.

There is a 1m high and 2m wide flake of rock sitting about half a meter in front of the cliff.

17 Batteries Not Included

2m L of the flake. Up on good holds (4 FHs) to lumpy arête. Nice exposure past 3 FHs to DBB. Rebolted in 2011 by SCQ

16 Carbon Black

4m L of flake. Up the R-leaning weakness past 3 FHs to a stance - quite run out between clips 2 & 3. Step L (FH) and up steep section (FH) to easy climbing (FH) to chains. Rebolted in 2011 by SCQ.

The route is a waterfall after rain.

14 A Bug's Life

Squash it! This was Grant's first (and only?) new route. 6m L of CB. Up easily to crescent shape corner (small wires, small and medium cams). Leave crack on exposed move to ledge (FH). Boldly over ledges above to DBBM. Worth the effort if you’re homesick for Kangaroo Point or you carried in some pro and must use it no matter what!

13 Flat And Useless

The following climbs are on the second face approximately 100m along the track. 5m R of small knee-high ledge (former flake). Was pretty dangerous, now rebolted and an extra bolt and anchor added. 3 FHs.

14 Connected In Series

Up BRs of "Flat and Useless", then go high L to last BR on "Eff-A-Reddy". Continue L to last on ASSOSSISS, then up to belay. Could have been the original intent for FU?

13 Eff-A-Reddy

Start above small knee-high ledge (former detached flake). Clip FH and launch onto wall. Over bump (FH) and follow jugs (FH) trending R. Then up to shared lower-off.

12 A Sighing Sea Of Softwoods Swaying In Spring Sex

Great learner lead. Pockets 5m R of Itchy. Direct line staying R of runnel past 4 FHs to shared lower-off.

16 Ohm Sweet Ohm

A line of 5 FH's to the R of Itchy. Thin moves to 2nd FH and continue over bulge on good holds.

15 Itchy

Great learner lead. 1m R of the two pines are 3 pockets that look like Mickey Mouse. Up to pockets and on to next FH. Crux moves to and over the next FH lead to jugs and vertical section (FH). Over this to good chain belay on back wall of ledge.

17 Specific Gravity

The crux provides some interesting crimping up an arete.

18 Scratchy

The line of 5 FHs behind the pine tree. Finish at DBB.

13 Candle Power

6m left of Scratchy is a line of 5 FHs to DBB. Boulder up to 1st hanger from L and mantle onto ledge using a little muscle power. Continue up wall on good holds staying L of 3rd hanger.

14 Loaded on Lithium

3m L of Candle Power. Up short steep wall on good holds. Good warm up or for newer leaders. 3 FHs to chains.

10 Positively Terminal

Tricked into a solo by Sandbag Sam. Up wall just R of tree with large leaves about 15m L of the two pines. At top of wall trend L to start of R leading ramp. Up this to wall 3m from top. Straight up wall. No pro. "Why did you do that?" "Cause I’m stupid."

17 Not Rechargeable

Scramble up short wall as for NASATV to large ledge. At RH end of ledge there is a FH at chest height. Belay from here. Up face to 2 large holes passing a FH (wasps have been removed). Continue up wall passing 3 FHs to chain belay shared with LV.

14 Low Voltage

Start 4m left of NR at RH end of large ledge. Can belay from 1st bolt of NR. Follow line of 5 FHs to shared chains with NR.

15 Electrolyte

Scramble 6m up to large ledge. 1st FH below large hole (wasps removed). Continue through bulge passing 3 more FHs to chain belay shared with NASATV. Be warned of ants at 2/3 height.

14 Nice Acid, Shame About The Volts

Scramble 6m up to large ledge and clip FH on LH end of ledge at head height. Up easily, staying L of dark stain passing 3 FHs to shared CB with "Electrolyte".

Northern Rivers Urbenville
The Crown

The unmissable volcanic plug visible from the centre of Urbenville, also known as 'North Obelisk'. It's north-facing slabs offer balancy slabbing on very featureless rock, in contrast to the more blocky structure of The Pines. For Queensland climbers, reminiscent of older style slab routes of Mt Beerwah. More recently, dark arts have been practiced on its shady southern side (see Spot X).

Useful Info: Most of the more trafficked climbs were rebolted by Safer Cliffs Queensland in mid-2008 with stainless fixed hangers and expansion bolts. The hardware on many of the remaining routes consists mostly of bash-in mild steel or sometimes stainless bolts in varying states of decay. Exercise caution and discretion.

Many routes require some trad gear and bolt plates, so be prepared. The classics of the crag would have to be Slip 23m (19) and the three pitch continuation starting at the end of Slip known as 'Fantastic' 75m (19).

The black trachyte and NNE position means that The Crown is best climbed autumn through spring, some respite in summer may be available on those climbs under the treeline but don't count on it.

Northern Rivers Urbenville The Crown
21 The James Scott Memorial Diet

Follow the system of corners up and step L on to slab, passing BR's to CB.(BR's, SLCD's, wires)

Start: Apparently pretty damn hard. Climb arête L of large tree, which is in turn L of a large fallen tree and stump hole.

19 Sceptre

A pleasant mixed route following the line of least resistance.

Start: From large stump hole move up slab about 5m to dish and a single BR belay (If using a 50m rope, use a sling to clip into bolt as leader will need all the rope to get to first CB).

  1. 50m (19) From dish head towards orange overhang and a step to the R on to slab heading for short, prominent corner past two BR\'s to CB.

  2. 45m (18) Head up corner following BR's to top CB.

17 Foreign Accent Syndrome

Head up L side of hanging block to flake up L side of block to bolt belay. (BR's & SLCD's)

Start: Several metres L of a broken corner with a large stump and a fallen tree, about 20m R of stump hole.

19 Texas Chainsaw Massacre

Start: Directly up from broken stump.

  1. 25m (19) Up R side of overhang to tree root and then up past three BR's to CB. A fall on the crux could serve you up on the slab - take care.

  2. 45m (19) Continue up through two headwalls passing 15 hangers along the way. Remeber your long draws and/or use two ropes.

Ross Ernst, Colin Carstens 18/10/2008

19 Texas Chainsaw Massacre (p2)

For access to The Crown, Crossroads and Spot X only (Not for Battery Hill or Vesuvius: It is requested (by the farmer whose land you cross to access the cliff) that you phone him prior to your arrival and seek permission to access The Crown. His name is Mr Jones and his number is (02) 6634 1225. Peter also owns the general store in town & you can stop in there & the staff can call him if he isn't around. Think of this as a courtesy call which will serve to keep climbers in the good graces of land managers. Please do it. If you should have any problems with this arrangement, post up on qurank.com.

19 Slip

One of the most popular routes at urbenville, fine balancy slabbing up rock which has had every edge polished off by the sweaty palms and squirming feet of those who went before.

18 Genocide and Caramel

The obvious upwards continuation from Slip\'s anchors.

Start: Continue up and slightly left from Slip\\'s Anchors through break.

  1. 25m (16) Up through break in roof, follow hangers across slab to anchors just short of headwall.

  2. 25m (18) Follow line of weakness through headwall with some balancy moves, continue up slab to anchor.

18 Slip-Sceptre linkup

Traverses left following the upwards trending overlap. Mind some loose blocks in the middle.

Start: Start at the anchors at the top of Slip.

19 Fantastic

Three pitches of pleasant climbing with an interesting crux.

Start: Start by traversing up and right from the anchors of Slip or by heading straight up from the anchor of Slope/Sonoluminescence

  1. 20m (15) Follow bolts through corner/weakness (one bolt plate required) approximately 1.5 metres up and 5 metres right of Slip\'s anchor, up slab and corner for a short distance to anchor with huge mild-steel chain hardware.

  2. 25m (19) Up shallow corner to obvious steep corner (many FH's). Overcome this and the tricky arête crux move onto slab to reach CB at small tree.

  3. 15m (17) Clip FH from ledge and climb the slab above past numerous FH's to tree belay.

18 Slope

Another romp up slab past the L side of a small nose to CB at the top of Slip.

Start: Start at line of hangers a few metres right of Slip

17 Sonoluminescence

Up R side of small nose past numerous FHs to CB at top of 'Slapp'. Has an interesting bulge at half height.

15 Slapp

Off block and follow seam to first BR at five metres. Up slab blipping colts to CB.

18 Gearbox Gastro

Quite testing. 3m R of 'Slapp'. Up slab passing two BR's to large SLCD placement and BR. Up steep section passing a FH (crux) to overlap, and on to CB.

(BR's, FH's & SLCD's)

17 Slither

Solid at the grade, but excellent. Up slab clipping FH's to obvious triangular tooth. Once up steepness and at the overlap, head L to lower-off at top of Gearbox Gastro. FH's and cams.

18 Weetbix Warrior

More good value. About 5m R of Slither. Up slab to a tricky step R and FH. Sweet pockets will see you through the crux steepness. Continue up corner to lower-off.

21 Urban Villain

This climb starts R about 3 metres. Head up crack/corner to vegetated ledge. From here step 2m R onto steeper territory. Follow FH's to a lower-off.

21 Urbain Villain DS

Instead of climbing the crack/corner of Urban Villain climb directly up the slab, passing three FH's below the crux.

15 Easement

Good, but a sandbag at its original grade of 13 if climbed directly. Start about 12m R of Urban Villain, in a shallow V. Climb up the V and step L onto a large ledge, the first BR is clipped from the ledge. From the ledge head up to orange overhang and lower-off. FH's and cams.

22 Unknown
  1. 40m (22) Start up Easement but move R before chains following FH's up and then L to steep wall. Crank L and up weakness in this steep headwall past numerous FH's to slab then to chain belay.

  2. 20m (19) Up slab above past big flake and numerous FH's to tree belay.

17 Unknown 2
  1. 30m (13) As for Easement.

  2. 20m? (17?) Move R from the belay and instead of trending back L toward the steep wall as per the 22, follow the line of FH's R into the corner, then out R and on R-wards.

17 Treddle

Quite varied. This climb starts 3m L of the top of the small ridge about 20m R of Easement. Climb up slab heading L to a vegetated corner and FH. Up slab through branches of squiggly gum to blunt arête. Up arête to ledge. Off ledge and up to CB past small wire placements.

15 Wasted Days and Wasted Nights
  1. 35m (15) At top of ridge head up gentle slab to obvious corner. Up corner to where it eases and trends L. Ignore this (and the FH out L). Instead, step R into smaller corner and up to rap anchor at good stance.

  2. 30m (15) From chains head about 4m R and up water mark passing several BR's to steeper rock (FH's). Surmount this then up corner (ignoring unnecessary retrobolts) to lower-off just above she-oak.

16 Wasted Days and Wasted Nights LHV
  1. As for p1 of Wasted Days and Wasted Nights

  2. Directly up from the belay following the line of FH's up the smooth slab, trending slightly L to chain belay.

21 Scream of the Hoggart

A gooey little thing. This climb goes up the L of the two cracks with a hard start and fiddly placements, ending at Fuck Off Noddy 's chain belay.

22 Fuck Off Noddy

Classic and quite sequency. The clean line located in the middle of the buttress, below the R slanting flake ending at a lower-off.

21 Waste Snot Want Snot

No easier than Noddy. Starts at R side of buttress below prominent flake. Boldly up to first FH then trend R to second FH. Up to top passing last FH, unsuccessfully trying to avoid stepping L. Chain belay.

17 Unknown 4

First route up dirty wall past a few BR's.

26 Nightmare

Looks heinous!! Two FH's lead up and to the L to a rest before the crux at the third FH. Up past one BR to finish. Chain belay.

23 The Liverpool Kiss

Up to scoop and BR. Onwards past another three BR's to chain belay.

22 You Eeediot

Weakness just L of Penial Warts. Four BR's and chain belay. Really just a variant start to Penile Warts as it joins it at the second BR.

22 Penile Warts

Start at warty tree. Up corner to small tree stump. Clip BR on L then up to second BR and traverse to the L. Up past another two BR's and a small wire over the lip if you feel it is required, then up to chain belay.

21 Tenuous Tendons

Didn't manage to find this one. Supposedly about 3m R of Penile Warts. Up past three BR's on difficult moves if you're the height of the first ascensionists. At top corner above third BR, step L and up to chain belay.

23 Romancing the Slabs

5m R of the warty tree. Up to first BR at the patch of white lichen. Traverse R and up to second BR. Up to FH and crux. Clip fourth BR and you're there. Chain belay.

20 Imaginary Invalid

Start at the left arête of the above mentioned slab. Head up to the large flake past two BR's. The third BR is out on the L on top of the flake, a medium cam is required out to the R. Follow the line of least resistance past seven BR's to chain belay.

18 Flatulence

Up slab past SLCD slot and across to the R (long BR). Make your way back L under roof past nose (big SLCD) and up to the big hole (BR). From here zig-zag through break in wall past two BR's. Once on slab, follow breaks to chain belay. (BR's, #2.5 & ~#4 SLCDs & medium wires)

15 Image is All

Start as for the previous two climbs. Head to the same bolt at the hole. Step down onto tooth and up R to ledge. From ledge follow BR's to chain belay.

19 I'll Be Bach

A direct start for Image is All. Start up slab about eight metres R of original start. Head up past two BR's then trend L to undercling and up to ledge.

20 Unknown 5

Another direct start just R of I'll be Bach. This time up slab past three BR's to hole and BR.

21 Unknown 6

Reputedly good and hard. Great pinches through the overhang. Up the slab heading for the big white stripe on the steep wall up high passing 4 BR's to get there. Climb the steep stain past another BR, then keep going following the bolts.

18 Wasp

Up almost horizontal flake to natural gear in corner. Up slab to BR. Traverse L to corner crack, an #11 hex can be fiddled into hole. Thence to the R and up crack to CB.

22 Flakes Away

Start as for Wasp. Up to ledge at 5m, then up to BR. Continue up past small cam and another four BR's. From fifth BR trend L to chain belay.

16 Streak

10m R. Apparently the streak up the vague L-facing corner has been done without bolts. Meander up to tree belay..

13 Ugly Duckling

The black, L-trending wide crack up the slab ending at a tree belay.

14 Jetsom

Up the short arête clipping BR's to chain belay.

15 Flotsam

Start about 4m R of Jetsom. Head straight up slab clipping BR's to chain belay.

Northern Rivers Urbenville
Spot X

Tucked away from prying eyes is the true 'jewel in the Crown', Spot X. This cliff has provided the canvas for a host of modern sport routes. Most sport climbers will find something to their liking here. There's still a fair bit of loose rock so helmets are essential.

Northern Rivers Urbenville Spot X
(The Executioner - Project - Reido)

Tricky boulder in the middle then through roof. 8 FH's to lower off at top of cliff.

21 Naughts And Crosses

Slab (2 FH’s) to easy L traverse. Up with big moves (3 FHs) to thinky exit R. One of the least steep routes at the crag.

24 Anasasis Xenophontis

4m R. Cool, punchy moves past chain permadraw and a steep finish. 6 FH’s to anchor. Hard!

28 Extremely Unseemly

6m R. The cool-looking overhanging mini-corner-seam. Very bouldery and difficulty might be a bit height dependent? 6 FH’s to anchor.

23 Sherlock Hemlock

8m R. 6 FH’s to anchor. Reachy, bouldery climbing on steep, bomber rock to finish on big ledge. An interesting mix of slabby and steep sections

22 Expialidocious

3m R of Sherlock Hemlock. 6 FH’s to anchor. Easy scramble past first bolt to ledge and clip, then solid rock to finish. Tricky crimps on good feet to high reach past bulge at fourth bolt.

23 Extra Shot

4m R. 8 FH’s to anchor. High first bolt above the big crater feature, then enjoyable varied climbing on good rock with a steep and tricky finish. Low in the grade.

24 Extra Bolt

Climb Extra Shot. Then bust R along the rail passing one FH to anchor of Glenn’s project. Back-jump.

(Project - Glenn)

2m R. 7 FH’s to anchors. Some nice bouldery pulls with crux up top.

25 Flexion

Starts same as above but takes the right-hand bolt line. Trends up and R passing monster flake (climbing corner L of this) to roof, through this on flakes. 9 FH’s then mantle to anchor above lip.

24 Hot Sex

A large traversing line. First two bolts as for Flexion (long draw on second), then layback the monster flake to stance. Clip FH on R, then edge R-wards across the blank slab for about 8m to the point the line skyrockets up through the roof (super). The route keeps going up the headwall for about 10m on superb stone. Take some long slings. A 60m rope is more than sufficient as it’s a traverse.

(Open Project - Hot Sex Direct Start aka ‘The Slab Dyno’)

Direct start (5m R - 3 FH’s) with jump start and slab dyno is an open project. Red tag on first FH.

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