Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | Grimpeur | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Jeu 21 Jan 2021 - Stonehenge | ||||||
North-East cluster | ||||||
V0 |
★★ The Blunt Arete Directe!
![]() Definitive V0 so it's possible this was the original NE10 but that's not consistent with the black and white toppo which also doesn't reflect multiple lines which climb independently minimal to nil overlap. Koala will get the photo and lines of the slab which should improve things as there's a fair bit to go at here, really nice slab just don't tumble down once your high up! | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V0 |
★★ Cliffhangers' Shaft
![]() Not so much room for a sit or crouch start in there so the wedge-tail start will have to do. | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mer 20 Jan 2021 - Cathedral Rock National Park | ||||||
Boon Docks Main Docks Roped Climbing | ||||||
19 |
★ Antarctic Beach
![]() | 15m, 4 | ||||
Mer 20 Jan 2021 - Stonehenge | ||||||
North-East cluster | ||||||
V0 |
★★ NE10
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V0 |
★★ NE9 Rabbit Trap
![]() Looks like 5 problems on the "Cliffhanger Slab" not including the no hands stemming on the farish right. So left of Rabbit Trap there are a left (via vertical rail) and right (via crimps) lines which merge to a horizontal edge. These are at least a meter higher than Rabbit Trap with similar difficulty of climbing and awkward landing so probably not the V0. | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V0+ |
★ Egor
![]() | 4m | ★ Good | |||
V0 |
★★ Cliffhangers' Gate
![]() Worthwhile in it's own right from standing. | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mer 20 Jan 2021 - Stonehenge | ||||||
South-West cluster Moby Dick Boulder | ||||||
V0+ |
★ B's Knees
![]() Very mossy topout and arguably eliminate, but still good, nice moves throughout. | 4m | ★ Good | |||
V0 |
★★★ MDT Drop
![]() | 13m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
V0 |
★★★ Thirst Drop?
![]() Really good with the sit start. | 4m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mer 13 Jan 2021 - Stonehenge | ||||||
North-East cluster | ||||||
V0 |
★★ NE9 Rabbit Trap
![]() Almost Forgot! | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mer 13 Jan 2021 - Stonehenge | ||||||
South-West cluster Moby Dick Boulder | ||||||
V0+ |
★★★ MDB Craic
![]() Not likely a FA but it should be documented and deserves a name, much better than Opera House Crack! | 3m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mer 13 Jan 2021 - Stonehenge | ||||||
North-East cluster | ||||||
V0 |
★★ NE10
![]() 3 laps to warm up today on NE10. The whole slab is mega, there looks 4-5 independent lines plus the no hands problem. NE10 V0 looks to take the the slab left of the blunt arete on nice crimps as per toppo. Not documented, climbing the slab right of the blunt arete (between NE10 and the no hands 'stemming' problem) on good crimps is slightly harder probably V0+ 1 star (bit more moss at top and awkward landing you may want a spotter). Koala climbed this onsight today, not bad! Left of NE10 is NE9, the closest thing to V0 here starts as per position on toppo trending slightly right via a small hollow flake, it's higher and harder than NE10 so more like V0+. Left of this in a another independent line on crimps, higher, harder and more awkward landing so not likely V0, will confirm if/when completed. Potentially another line left of this (before you start going 'round to NE22) via the vertical rail and crimps, will take a closer look but again higher and more awkward landing than NE10. Will look to take photo and add to toppo of this sector next time Koala is there, there a looks a fair bit unclimbed here so at some point that's going to need some reorganising as the sector guide/toppos are incomplete and jumbled.. | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Lun 11 Jan 2021 - Stonehenge | ||||||
South-West cluster | ||||||
V0 |
★ SW11
![]() Onsight with controlled downclimbs. Basically a rockover mantle onto the slab once you are established, direct is solid UK5b move as it's quite a high step with good landing, moving further left is defo easier felt about UK5a with worse landing for the V0 tick, quite nice. Lots of the rabbit holes on this aspect be carefull if you are here. | ★ Good | ||||
V0 |
★ SW12
![]() Good holds, climbs quite nice, moss about but doesnt detract from the quality. | ★ Good | ||||
V0 |
SW13
![]() The crack or good holds just left of it, both at VB+/V0- before factoring in some loose rock and awkward landing. | 3m | Average | |||
V0 |
SW14
![]() VB low step/press onto a very mossy slab with awkward landing, not terrible but you dont want to slip and fall. | 3m | Average | |||
V0 |
SW15
![]() Starting at the pocket/jug stepping up on the slab, the climbing is VB+/VO- but it has fair bit of moss and awkward landings on this side of the boulder. | 3m | Average | |||
V0 |
★ SW10
![]() Nails for the grade and a difficult onsite. The directish line as on the toppo is sharp and a bit fierce, then mossy and blankish. Trending right a fraction you have a solid UK5b sequence for the V0 tick, really nice climb. | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lun 11 Jan 2021 - Stonehenge | ||||||
South-West cluster Butt Face Boulder | ||||||
V0 |
Cunningham Jnr.
![]() 3-4 moves at UK4c/5a for this V0 tick, climbs quite nice not far off 2 stars. | 2m | ★ Good | |||
Dim 10 Jan 2021 - Cathedral Rock National Park | ||||||
Boon Docks Main Docks Bouldering Salubrious Boulder | ||||||
V3 |
★ Salubrious Sacs Stand
![]() | 3m | ||||
V1 |
★★ Salubrious
![]() | 3m | ||||
Dim 10 Jan 2021 - Stonehenge | ||||||
South-West cluster Whale Tale | ||||||
V1 |
★ Whale Tale
![]() Not the hardest V1 'round here! Like 1m of climbing, technical and burly at the same time, probably warrants 2 stars, good onsight if you can do it. | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sam 9 Jan 2021 - Stonehenge | ||||||
South-West cluster Butt Face Boulder | ||||||
V0 |
★ SW5
![]() Ran up this as warm up couple times today, tough for V0 even though it's short. | ★ Good | ||||
Sam 9 Jan 2021 - Mt Yarrowyck | ||||||
No mans land | ||||||
V2 |
★ four
![]() Found the grading all over the place here, pretty sand bagged! Wildly over grown everywhere aswell. Cool spot and great looking boulders but won’t be back | |||||
Sam 9 Jan 2021 - Mt Yarrowyck | ||||||
Car Park Boulders Candy For Jeff Boulder | ||||||
V6 |
★★★ Candy for Jeff
![]() Beautiful climb, tried it a million times. But couldn’t get the gaston move before the mantle up top | 3m | ||||
Sam 9 Jan 2021 - Stonehenge | ||||||
North-East cluster | ||||||
V0 |
★★ NE10
![]() Gets the adrenaline going, much easier than the slab to the left from the looks of it. The no hands problem on the right is v good, not quite hands free Masters Edge but well worthwhile. Further in the middle of the chimney/offwidth from stand is 1-2 star V0 ish if only it were a bit taller. Far end of chimney/offwidth (towards ramp traverse end) is V0 from stand 1-2 stars. This also has a sit start which should rate at v1 by Oz Stonehenge standards although not completed today. Ideal warm ups if you are at this sector initially. | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Ven 8 Jan 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | ||||||
V6 |
★★★ Fight club
![]() First proper session on this unique and burly piece. For much of the 3 hours we were here it was sprinkly mist above yet FC remained dry. Worked the start thanks to Skippy's hard earned beta and got myself into the jams which felt way more comfortable than the more marginal crux sequence. Elated to get the send but dampened a little given Skippy was all but on the send train before pulling up just short after a very solid session. | 5m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
V6 |
★★★ Fight club
![]() Another misty drizzly day, early start with 5 pads and a rope not sure what we'd do and FC was in good condition. A wicked super session, after only one or two attempts and I was back to my furthest point again - and for all the other attempts I don't think I ever didn't get back to this point, the first crux is now dialed. After Ben showed the way I got on just after the first crux and linked all the remaining moves to the nose-twiddle finish on my first go, and after that I thought I had it in the bag as I could now do every move. Tried linking it from the start, and then again and again, with longer breaks and more prep between them slowly mangling my fists and ankles and draining the energy reserves. After one really long rest refuel and complete re-tape I had one last burn and gave it everything, and got further than ever, only 3 moves from the finish, but was totally spanked. Got some wild toe and shin cramps afterward. Heaps of hand, wrist and ankle bruises, right wrist is quite swollen now. Masochism as its finest | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Ven 8 Jan 2021 - Stonehenge | ||||||
South-West cluster Butt Face Boulder | ||||||
V0 |
★ SW5
![]() Very solid for the grade, good once the beta is sorted. | ★ Good | ||||
V1 |
★★ Opera House Crack
![]() Take a star off or two if your in shorts and singlet on a hot day! | 3m | ★★★ Classic | |||
V1 |
★ SJW
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
Ven 8 Jan 2021 - Mt Yarrowyck | ||||||
Car Park Boulders Highball boulder | ||||||
V5 |
★★ Magic garden
![]() Fun start, dirty top (literally.. needs a good scrub) big Boulder, scary up top! lucky a tree had fallen against the Boulder for descent | 6m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mar 5 Jan 2021 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Second Breakaway | ||||||
17 |
★★ Fear and Loathing
![]() | 15m | ||||
Mar 5 Jan 2021 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
First Breakaway | ||||||
15 |
★ The Removalist
![]() | 15m | ||||
15 |
★ Seizure
![]() | 14m | ||||
15 |
Milkshake
![]() | 15m | ||||
17 |
★ The Joker
![]() | 12m | ||||
17 |
★ Polynesian Lady
![]() | 15m | ||||
Ven 1 Jan 2021 - Stonehenge | ||||||
South-West cluster Butt Face Boulder | ||||||
V1 |
★★ Butt Crack
![]() Demanding, packs a lot of climbing into 2m. Sent with gloves in the end, probably 1 star without gloves unless you are a feather! | 2m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Jeu 31 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
North rim boulders Perfect cleavage area | ||||||
V4 |
★★ Christmas Custard
![]() Spent an age working this on first attempt. Got it on my second with Benji's beta. | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
V3 |
★★ Consumation
![]() | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V2 |
★★ Diamond in the rough
![]() | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V4 |
★★ Christmas Custard
![]() Had a few goes and with Benji's beta I can statically press through the crux but come up literally millimetres short of the jug finish! Moving my right hand in further puts me off balance. I'm probably going to need to stem my right foot out. It's a fairly big fall | 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V3 |
★★ Consumation
![]() 3 attempts, crux is fairly low on the left | 3m | ★ Good | |||
V2 |
★★ Diamond in the rough
![]() | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Jeu 31 Déc 2020 - Stonehenge | ||||||
South-West cluster Moby Dick Boulder | ||||||
V1 |
★ MDT extension
![]() That's a finger jug not a jug. Very solid for V1 particularly if you stick to the slab/crack above the break on the body of the whale as it's a long unpleasant journey down from there if you slip. Combining the MDT+Extension warrants at least 2 stars, if only it were bit less mossy on top. | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V0 |
★ Moby Dick Traverse
![]() Probably closer to VB although easy to slip on the moss during OS! | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Mer 30 Déc 2020 - Stonehenge | ||||||
Central Cluster | ||||||
V4 |
★★ What a Silly Goat
![]() Stunning boulder, probably elevates it to 2stars. Difficulty wise it feels similar to The Dragon Flight Traverse at Rubicon from memory so if you are doing this OS and calling it V2 you are going ok. The right to left is a fraction easier probably new school v3, linking them together just adds pump. | 6m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mer 30 Déc 2020 - Mt Yarrowyck | ||||||
Car Park Boulders Candy For Jeff Boulder | ||||||
V6 |
★★★ Candy for Jeff
![]() | 3m | ||||
V4 |
★★ Jeff's Traverse
![]() | |||||
Mar 29 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | ||||||
V6 |
★★★ Fight club
![]() Solo mission with 3 pads and a portable fan. It started sprinkling as I packed the car and I drove through a couple showers. The rock was still good and had a great sess with more than a dozen burns and another foot of progress. Past the crux (first?) and into decent fist jam rest and inverted. Another 2 foot of slightly flaring hands and fists remains. The sky opened as I packed up and I walked out in drenching rain. | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sam 26 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | ||||||
V5 |
★★★ Evan Stone
![]() A lot of debris at the moment, needs another good excavation. Got it second go but the stand start takes out the hardest move. | 4m | ★★★ Classic | |||
V6 |
★★★ Fight club
![]() Another scout just to see how spoogy it was, totally mint so shoe'd up and ended up progressing to a new hight point all the way to the fist jam and then tenuously matched. Was right on the index knuckle, if I'd sunk it just an inch deeper I think it would have been done!? | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sam 26 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Below the bridge | ||||||
V4 |
★★★ Shawarma
![]() After the uninspired start to the day, I was stoked to jump on and statically move through the crux first go and essentially fell of the top in surprise. Got it very smoothly on 3rd go | 3m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sam 26 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
South-Western Boulders Quickdraw Area | ||||||
V4 |
★★★ Quickdraw roof
![]() Only one go, got to last traverse move. Time to chase some shade | 3m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sam 26 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
South-Western Boulders Crack Boulder | ||||||
V3 |
★★★ The crack
![]() Start felt hard, top move kept spooging | 4m | ||||
Jeu 24 Déc 2020 - Mt Yarrowyck | ||||||
Trackside area Trackside Boulder | ||||||
V6 |
★★ New Beginning
![]() | 4m | ||||
Jeu 24 Déc 2020 - Mt Yarrowyck | ||||||
Trackside area Dog Rooter Arete boulder | ||||||
V3 |
★★ Arete left
![]() | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Dim 20 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | ||||||
V6 |
★★★ Fight club (Flight club)
![]() Finally got a tickle on this thing before the trickles got intense and the rock soaked. | 5m | ||||
Dim 20 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Above the private sector | ||||||
24 |
★★★ The Elver Escape
![]() Had one go at this as it started spitting and slowly fell away in no-mans land. Good to see Benji get oh so close. | 5m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
V5 |
★★★ 50 calories in 50 seconds
![]() You get your moneys worth on this one. This grovel fest is an instant classic. Best attempt was my first go. Knee bars, stacked hands, shoulder jams, balancy feet, inverted moves and it's only 3m tall! | 3m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
V2 |
★★ Stale Pringles
![]() | 4m | ★ Good | |||
Dim 20 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Yoda's cave | ||||||
V3 |
★★★ Dagobah
![]() Such a good number to bring on the burn. I find this a pretty hard route to flash as a warm-up cause of the intense flash pump. Got it on my 4th attempt and again on the 5th | 10m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
V1 |
★★ Yoda's mantle
![]() A little mantle practice in-between Dagobah runs. | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Dim 20 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | ||||||
V6 |
★★★ Fight club
![]() An optimistic scouting missing turned into an attempt. It started sprinkling again by the time we got setup and only 1 proper burn, carefully stepping on the dry bits, but after a couple goes we were just sitting in the drizzle with soggy pads. | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Dim 20 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Above the private sector | ||||||
V5 |
★★★ 50 calories in 50 seconds
![]() Water level was fairly high into the cave so did a bit of rock building first. Afters the boys had a few goes thought I should too. Probably 5 or so goes, starting from the higher fist jam, had one fairly decent go (the first?) where I got pretty high and kinda arm barring. After some discussion we have consensus that this is not a V3 and probably more like V5 | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V2 |
★★ No big deal
![]() Was much more interesting in a swim, a gara swim is long over due. Only a fortnight ago it was almost drought level trickle again but now its magic. (I'm sun burnt now). Did a quick lap as a warmup | 4m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Dim 20 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Yoda's cave | ||||||
V1 |
★★ Yoda's mantle
![]() Through the mantle I felt the slight twinge in my right shoulder still from a week or so ago at the wall | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V3 |
★★★ Dagobah
![]() Post storm humid conditions but we snuck out because its been forever and the covid gut needs to go. Super happy to resend this first go and even happier to do a second lap clean. | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mer 9 Déc 2020 - Cathedral Rock National Park | ||||||
Boon Docks Main Docks Bouldering Salubrious Boulder | ||||||
V1 |
★★ Salubrious
![]() | 3m | ||||
V1 |
★ Salubrislab
![]() | 3m | ||||
Jeu 12 Nov. 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders The holy land | ||||||
VB |
★ Round rail
![]() | 2m | ||||
V0 |
★ Prayer note crack
![]() | 2m | ||||
V1 |
★★ The western wall
![]() | 2m | ||||
V0 |
★ Ostrovsky
![]() | 2m | ||||
V0 |
★ Jug rail
![]() | 3m | ||||
V2 |
★ Cracked vessel
![]() | 2m | ||||
Jeu 12 Nov. 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Moonscape area | ||||||
V3 |
★★ In plain sight
![]() | 4m | ||||
V5 |
★★ In plain sight SDS
![]() | 4m | ||||
V0 |
★ Easy target
![]() | 3m | ||||
V3 |
★ Moonrise
![]() | 3m | ||||
V4 |
★★ 25% crack
![]() | 3m | ||||
V5 |
★★ The Landing Zone
![]() | 3m | ||||
Jeu 12 Nov. 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Below the bridge | ||||||
V2 |
★ Dr Nefario
![]() | 2m | ||||
V1 |
★★ Turbot St Exit
![]() | 4m | ||||
V0 |
★ Stuart
![]() | 4m | ||||
Mer 28 Oct. 2020 - Mt Yarrowyck | ||||||
Upper Lost Blacksnake corner | ||||||
V2 |
★★ Right face
![]() | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mar 27 Oct. 2020 - Mt Yarrowyck | ||||||
Car Park Boulders Candy For Jeff Boulder | ||||||
V4 |
★★ Jeff's Traverse
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Lun 26 Oct. 2020 - Mt Yarrowyck | ||||||
Lost world Lost boulder | ||||||
V1 |
★ Slab
![]() | 4m | ★ Good | |||
Lun 26 Oct. 2020 - Mt Yarrowyck | ||||||
No mans land | ||||||
V0- |
★ three
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
V2 |
★ four
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
Dim 25 Oct. 2020 - Cathedral Rock National Park | ||||||
Boon Docks Main Docks Roped Climbing | ||||||
12 |
★ Topped Out
![]() | 3 | ★ Good | |||
26 |
★★★ The Schnoz
![]() | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mar 13 Oct. 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Illusion Buttress | ||||||
20 |
★ Heavy Metal - Direct Start
![]() waaaay harder (for me) than the indirect start. i onsighted the 19 and couldnt get up this on top rope, after being shown some beta. | 18m, 4 | Average | |||
19 |
★★ Heavy Metal
![]() my first granite climb and what a joy. standing and crimping on tiny flakes to gain nice ledges. well bolted except the last carrot seems to have popped out. this is no big deal as its on the easy slabby finish. | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mar 13 Oct. 2020 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
First Breakaway | ||||||
17 |
★ The Joker
![]() did the chimney as more of an offwidth to use up some of my excess strength. nice clean crack line to finish | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
15 |
★ The Removalist
![]() maybe a 15 if you trust the huge wobbly block on the first half? definitely not if you dont. which i didnt. i don't trust like that | 15m | Average | |||
17 |
★★ Firestorm
![]() | 15m | ||||
Jeu 8 Oct. 2020 - Mt Yarrowyck | ||||||
Car Park Boulders Group Effort Boulder | ||||||
V6 |
★ Ben's Slab
![]() | ★ Good |