Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | Grimpeur | |||
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Sam 23 Mars 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Fortress | |||||||
20 M1 | ★★★ Kiss Me Deadly - avec Michael Moore | 35m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Top rope burn, shoulder felt great after I tweaked it a couple weeks ago here. Got to the crux clean feeling fairly solid, had a tussle with the rope stuck in the crack where I needed to be. Worked it all and did get the crux moves, but it feels like the crux isn't actually the crux and it's the thinner hands on the headwall which are doable when fresh but brutally sustained after the lip which is the extended crux. The top boulder problem I got first go last time and made a mess of it this time cause I was super cooked.
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Ven 8 Mars 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Fortress | |||||||
20 M1 | ★★★ Kiss Me Deadly - avec Michael Moore | 35m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Two goes on top rope and made a lot of progress. This feels very doable now compared to last time. The first roof is not too bad after all, pinch abd layback instead of jam. Second roof is perfect hands for me, the lip is just a constant grunt fest and is more of a stamina thing than pure technical difficulty. Head wall is just more constant fight and thins out and I think you’d want to just punch through it quickly up to the rest before the third little roof. Final section was surprisingly easy and flows nicely. Strained my shoulder / bicep somewhere on the first go and should have taken it easy and cooked it a bit on the second go
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Jeu 29 Fév 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Fortress | |||||||
20 M1 | ★★★ Kiss Me Deadly - avec Michael Moore | 35m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Didn't pull on, just cleaning and belaying. Found a perfect photo ledge level with the main roof with the water fall in the background
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Sam 20 Jan 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
South-Western Boulders Tank Boulder | |||||||
V9 | ★ Suzeranity — 4 essais - avec Callum Mather | 5m | ★ Bon | ||||
Unlocked all the moves on a rope, couldn’t get cru ground up though, very sharp, very fun, cool tall man’s Boulder
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Sam 9 Sept 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Moonscape area | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ In plain sight SDS - avec Krysten | 4m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Took a few attempts to even establish, but ended up feeling really close! Hopefully next time!
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Dim 20 Août 2023 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Car Park Boulders Tim's/Jeff's Boulder | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Scoop — 6 essais - avec Edgar | 3m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Been a while, still cannot do it. Found some different beta though.
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Dim 20 Août 2023 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Trackside area Dog Rooter Arete boulder | |||||||
V3 | ★★★ Arete left — 7 essais - avec Edgar | 3m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Took a number of attempts to get the foot work. Good fun
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Sam 19 Août 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Central climbing areas Private sector | |||||||
23 | ★ Trajectory Direct — 7 essais - avec Edgar | 10m, 3 | |||||
Took a while to work the beta, some interesting moves
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Sam 29 Juil 2023 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Car Park Boulders Fat Bastard Boulder | |||||||
V0 Difficile | ★ F4 - avec Simon Porter | 3m | ★ Bon | ||||
Starts off really nice, but then the jams get a bit rattly and I just can't commit over the bulge. Tree branch removed
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Ven 28 Juil 2023 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
The practice rocks | |||||||
V6 | ★ Steppen Wolf - avec Alec Eastwood | 5m | ★ Bon | ||||
A bunch of goes, tickling the pinch and can't figure out if I want to pinch it or gaston. Lots of finger taping. Very shouldery
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Mar 25 Juil 2023 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
The practice rocks | |||||||
V6 | ★ Steppen Wolf - avec Ash Hancock | 5m | |||||
Ahhh, sick line, very athletic and powerful, excited to put some sessions in
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Jeu 13 Juil 2023 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Car Park Boulders Matt's Very nice boulder | |||||||
V3 Difficile | ★★ VN5 Jeff's excellent problem *** | 3m | |||||
Jeu 13 Juil 2023 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Trackside area Trackside Boulder | |||||||
V7 | ★★ Jingoism | 3m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Closer, but broke a foot..
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Dim 2 Juil 2023 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Car Park Boulders Candy For Jeff Boulder | |||||||
V6 | ★★ More Candy — 6 essais | 3m | |||||
Made some solid links, nearly did the the hard stuff on a send go but just not quite yet
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Lun 26 Juin 2023 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Car Park Boulders Candy For Jeff Boulder | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Candy for Jeff — 3 essais | 3m | |||||
Sam 24 Juin 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Eastern Boulders Phlem rock | |||||||
V2 | ★ Arete - avec Ash Powell | 2m | ★ Bon | ||||
V2 | ★ Left - avec Ash Powell | 2m | ★ Bon | ||||
Sam 24 Juin 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
South-Western Boulders Hilltop Boulder | |||||||
V1 | 3 - avec Ash Powell | 3m | ★ Bon | ||||
Sam 27 Mai 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Bastille | |||||||
23 | ★★★ The Fuckwit And The Protégé - avec Michael Moore, Denni Heywood, Nora | 20m, 12 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Got another couple moves into the crux than last time, got high foot on the little chip but couldn't balance on it to straighten up. Feels like its only 2 moves away but I found it nails. Did the slopey foot traverse out of the crux.
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Dim 21 Mai 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Powers creek junction Cluster | |||||||
★★★ Broke back mantel - avec Brendan Heywood | 4m | ★★★ Classique | |||||
Phwoar. Maybe. Skippy got super close. Great Castle Hill training!
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★★★ Broke back mantel - avec Ben Vincent | 4m | ★★★ Classique | |||||
A real tantalizing test piece that draws you in and makes you want to do it. Both of us feeling tired and the more we pulled on the more stoke was generated. Around 15 tries each
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★★★ Gluteus maximus levitatum - avec Ben Vincent | 5m | ★★★ Classique | |||||
A proper session, had a few goes going feet first and got almost sitting on the slopey exit with a toe cam. I am in love with this weird problem. Can't believe its been 7 years
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Dim 21 Mai 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Powers creek junction The Runway Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★ Jet B - avec Ben Vincent, Todd Free, Mark, Alex | 10m, 3 | |||||
Top rope scrub, all the holds are delicate but its all there and relatively obvious sequence
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Ven 19 Mai 2023 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Car Park Boulders Mike's crack boulders | |||||||
V0 | ★★ The crack | 4m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Bring the gloves next time
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Dim 14 Mai 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Yoda's cave | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Dagobah | 10m | ★ Bon | ||||
Ven 12 Mai 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Central Boulders Triangle Boulder | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Sickle Arete | 4m | |||||
tree on top in the way
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Ven 12 Mai 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Southern Boulders Australia Boulder | |||||||
V0 | S6 | 3m | |||||
Sam 6 Mai 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
South-Western Boulders Two Cracks Boulder | |||||||
V0 | Thin Crack | 4m | ★ Bon | ||||
walk along crack, figure out top
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Mer 19 Avr 2023 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Trackside area Trackside Boulder | |||||||
V7 | ★★ Jingoism | 3m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
got the first move, feels remotely possible after some sessions
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Mar 11 Avr 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Central Boulders Pseudoephedrine Boulders | |||||||
V5/6 Difficile | ★★ Arete project | 3m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
So close, but this is a fucking skin eating monster. The moves are really good, the holds are revolting
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Mar 11 Avr 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Northeast Boulders Northeast Group Fluming area | |||||||
V8 | ★★★ Mother's Milk | 3m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Made some great progress, snapped the good footer off, had to rework the whole middle sequence that is now definitely harder. We'll call this one a draw
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Jeu 6 Avr 2023 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Lost world Gandalf's cave | |||||||
V8 | ★★ Traverse | 4m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
re-acquainted myself with the holds, things hard, excited to work this over the season
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Jeu 6 Avr 2023 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Lost world Lost boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Lost world — 5 essais | 2m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
this thing still eludes me, absolutely ate the skin on my fingers so maybe thats why i didn't send....
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V8 | ★★★ Lost World SDS — 2 essais | 4m | |||||
could pull of the ground, but thats about it, keen to put some hours into this
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Jeu 6 Avr 2023 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Trackside area Trackside Boulder | |||||||
V6 | ★★ Eternal Dyno — 6 essais | 2m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
getting closer, found the god spot of the sloper multiple times but more tension and strength required
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V6 | ★★ New Beginning — 3 essais | 4m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
will stil go wothout the footer the SS starts from, maybe harder or slightly different, who knows
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Ven 17 Mars 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Central climbing areas Shooting Star Block | |||||||
★★★ Star craft - avec Alec Eastwood, Michael Moore | 3m | ||||||
This thing is cool and hard. Also would have some variant finishes out left which look cooler and harder
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V3 | ★★ Star grazing - avec Alec Eastwood, Michael Moore | 3m | |||||
Got the sit start, keen to tick this fresh and with a pad
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Ven 10 Mars 2023 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Lost world Lost boulder | |||||||
V8 | ★★★ Lost World SDS | 4m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Done all the moves, just need some cooler temps and she will go. Bloody 30d today.
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Dim 29 Jan 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
North rim boulders Plumbers crack | |||||||
25 | ★★ The Plumbers Crack - avec Ben Vincent | 8m | ★ Bon | ||||
Reacquainting with all the beta. Felt nails again pulling on, crimps are sharp and none of the jams are really great. Did more or less most of the moves in three sections: off the ground to thin moves to get into the layerback, trick is to hop and swap feet and then chill out a little. For the bulge the sequence which worked well for me was avoid the Salmon tickle that Ben was doing, right hand on the okish slightly downward jam, then left hand ring finger hook into the little meat grinder and pull right through so right falls into the side pull, then feels pretty good out left to crimp the crystal then, right high step and slap the right hand up a few times and profit. Ended up right my right hand under the top rope anchor for an unfun knuckle grate
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Jeu 26 Jan 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Eastern Boulders Catacombs | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ Ossuary | 3m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Got into some stances, but didn’t have the skin to put some proper effort in, sick line though
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Sam 21 Jan 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Eastern Boulders Catacombs | |||||||
V6 Difficile | ★★★ The Horseshoe — 5 essais - avec Michael Moore, Clive | 2m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Put in some work on this after watching Michael Moore style his way through it! Found some new beta for the crux and keen to give it a burn with fresh skin! Mega cool moves!
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Mar 27 Déc 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Moonscape area | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ Space jam - avec carol lee, Michael Moore | 4m | |||||
Another 5-10 goes, lots of micro beta improvements and can just tickle the salmon with left hand into the high jam but still not quite into the good spot.
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Mer 21 Déc 2022 - Cathedral Rock National Park | |||||||
Boon Docks Noah's Ark | |||||||
V5 | ★★ Red Belly | ★ Bon | |||||
Linked a few of the moves, need to work out the mantle. Feels like the board climbing companion to Crystal Method. Was starting with just left hand on the rail. Pre-tape if working the moves, as a bit of a skin eater.
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Lun 19 Déc 2022 - Stonehenge | |||||||
North-East cluster Cliffhanger boulder | |||||||
V6 | ★★ Hard Arete Project | 3m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Now had six sessions on this, turns out it might be quite hard. Or I'm just doing it wrong. Really hard pull off a poor LH crimp. My best was hitting the upper LH sidepull, from which it should be an easier move to the lip, but it's hard to keep feet on. Need some really crispy conditions.
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Lun 19 Déc 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Central Boulders Vulcanology area | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Vulcanology — 6 essais - avec Ben Vincent, Brendan Heywood, Simon Porter, Benji Dutaillis | 4m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Started to get the moves but left arm was getting Cheese grated, sick problem though
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Lun 19 Déc 2022 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Lost world Conan Doyle boulder | |||||||
★★★ Slab project | ★★★ Classique | ||||||
Revisited this on the weekend. It's really feckin hard. Total friction slab, zero holds. Wi have to come back and put some proper time in
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Lun 19 Déc 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Northeast Boulders Northeast Group Fluming area | |||||||
V8 | ★★★ Mother's Milk | 3m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
This'll go. Great powerful technical climbing
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Mer 30 Nov. 2022 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Car Park Boulders Gordo's Bloc | |||||||
V6 | ★★ A1 Angela's mantle - avec ash handcock | 4m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Felt close but it’s so strange
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Mer 30 Nov. 2022 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Car Park Boulders Tim's/Jeff's Boulder | |||||||
V5 | ★★ Jeff's Crimp Problem - avec ash handcock | 3m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Got every move except the SDS
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Dim 13 Nov. 2022 - Stonehenge | |||||||
South-West cluster Moby Dick Boulder | |||||||
V5 | ★★ Whale Scale | 5m | |||||
V6 V6/7 | ★★ Free Willy | 4m | |||||
Lun 31 Oct. 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Eastern Boulders Catacombs | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ Catacomb Roof | 3m | |||||
Got all but one of the moves, shall Return for this one
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Sam 10 Sept 2022 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Car Park Boulders Karma boulder | |||||||
V3 | ★ Keith the Moravian Swearing Bear | 4m | |||||
Sam 10 Sept 2022 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Car Park Boulders Gordo's Bloc | |||||||
V5 | ★★ GB2 The sound of one hand slapping | 3m | |||||
Sam 10 Sept 2022 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Car Park Boulders Candy For Jeff Boulder | |||||||
V6 | ★★ More Candy | 3m | |||||
More progress. Just need a good session or 2!
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Sam 10 Sept 2022 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Car Park Boulders Gordo's Bloc | |||||||
V5 | ★★ GB2 The sound of one hand slapping - avec Ash Powell, Michael Birtill | 3m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Got closer with beta help from Michael, felt close but still far away
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Lun 5 Sept 2022 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Car Park Boulders Gordo's Bloc | |||||||
V5 | ★★ GB2 The sound of one hand slapping | 3m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Lun 5 Sept 2022 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Car Park Boulders Actively Eroding Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★ Slimpy | 3m | ★ Bon | ||||
Like Glass and nails
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Sam 27 Août 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders The holy land | |||||||
V3 | ★★★ Pilgrimage | 7m | |||||
Sam 27 Août 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
South-Western Boulders Sloper Boulder | |||||||
V2 | ★★★ Sloper traverse | 1m | |||||
skin killer!
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Dim 31 Juil 2022 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Car Park Boulders Tim's/Jeff's Boulder | |||||||
V5 | ★★ Jeff's Crimp Problem | 3m | ★ Bon | ||||
Dim 31 Juil 2022 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Car Park Boulders Candy For Jeff Boulder | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Candy for Jeff | 3m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Dim 31 Juil 2022 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Car Park Boulders Fat Bastard Boulder | |||||||
V5 | ★★ Fat Bastard | 3m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Sam 30 Juil 2022 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Car Park Boulders Group Effort Boulder | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Outer lip | 3m | ★ Bon | ||||
Sam 30 Juil 2022 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Car Park Boulders Reve Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★ Good vibes | 3m | ★ Bon | ||||
Sam 30 Juil 2022 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Car Park Boulders Gordo's Bloc | |||||||
V3 | ★ The starfish | 4m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Dim 24 Juil 2022 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Car Park Boulders Candy For Jeff Boulder | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Candy for Jeff | 3m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
V4 | ★★ Jeff's Traverse | 3m | ★ Bon | ||||
Lun 16 Mai 2022 - Mt Yarrowyck | |||||||
Car Park Boulders Karma boulder | |||||||
V9 | ★★ Rama | 4m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Project has started.
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Ven 29 Avr 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Picnic at Hanging Rock - avec Michael Moore | 10m, 3 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Glad Michael made me get back on this, super stoked to get the 3rd bolt on the first go. Worked the top a bit and got the second crux, didn't do the top slab.
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Mar 26 Avr 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Southern Boulders Bonsai Boulder | |||||||
★ Open Project | 2m | ★ Bon | |||||
Dim 24 Avr 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
South-Western Boulders Quickdraw Area | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Quickdraw traverse | 3m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Skipped the sds
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Sam 23 Avr 2022 - Cathedral Rock National Park | |||||||
Boon Docks Road Boulders Fresh Meat | |||||||
Open Project | 3m | ||||||
might clean up nice. first half delicate. will be some breakage.
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Sam 9 Avr 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Central Boulders Pseudoephedrine Boulders | |||||||
V5 V5/6 | ★★ Arete project | 3m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Cleaned this up and tried it a bit, but ran out of skin and time. Linked all but the last big move. It's a great little savage line, would be better if I thought the holds were going to stay on. Feels like it should go at around 5 or 6 with good crimping conditions
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Mar 15 Fév 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Tumble Jumble - avec Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis, Volodymyr K | 3m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
a few options down here and a bit too dark/pumped to complete any of them.
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V4 | ★★ Tumble Jumble (Cave problem) - avec Ben Vincent, Volodymyr K | 3m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
It was dark and I thought I was already done but the psyche was high and the single shared headlight kept us going. I mostly did the very torquey crux moves through the roof a few times and fell off chopping the hand jam in on the right. Somewhat contrived but a really awesome cave roof problem.
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Mar 8 Fév 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Below the bridge | |||||||
V5 | ★★ Riverside reflections | 4m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Flashed to the last move, then couldn't figure that out. At. All
|
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Mar 8 Fév 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Central Boulders Pear boulder | |||||||
V8 | ★★★ Pork Bone | 3m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Hello again. Nice to get reacquainted after all these years. Worthy winter project, will be back
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Sam 25 Sept 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Below the bridge | |||||||
V5 | ★★ Riverside reflections - avec Ben Vincent, carol lee | 4m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Had a great session working this and got the start really dialed and was consistently doing all the traverse. Have also done the Benji finish but was just too juiced to link it all together. Lost a bit of skin. Felt just smashed afterwards.
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Dim 12 Sept 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Below the bridge | |||||||
V5 | ★★ Riverside reflections (Riverside project) - avec Ben Vincent, carol lee | 4m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
This is a sick little find, a hard gritty traverse / compression with sting in the tail
|
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Dim 20 Juin 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Central Boulders Little Ayers | |||||||
V4 V6 | ★★★ The crack SDS (The crack SDS project) | 4m | |||||
Had a bunch of attempts trying different new techniques. Tried a backstepped foot jam while laybacking which is hard but feels like I can cycle each bit up at least. Lets be honest thing isn't anywhere near a V4
|
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Dim 13 Juin 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
South-Western Boulders Flake Boulder | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Unknown - avec Ben Vincent | 4m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Had a few throws, feels hard as usual
|
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Dim 23 Mai 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Central Boulders Little Ayers | |||||||
V4 V6 | ★★★ The crack SDS (The crack SDS project) - avec Ben Vincent, Benji Dutaillis, Denni Heywood, Adhna | 4m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Siege of different tactics, this time trending more into invert offwidth and away from the brute force layback
|
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V7 V6 | ★★★ The crack SDS (The crack SDS project) - avec Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis, Adhna | 4m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Solid opportunity for some inverse grovel from the get go and a good chance to throw in the trusty ol' trout tickler....
|
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Dim 4 Avr 2021 - Beulah | |||||||
Western areas Goat Dome Main Wall | |||||||
★★★ Roof project - avec Brendan Heywood | ★★★ Super classique | ||||||
Gravelly. Mega potential.
|
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Sam 3 Avr 2021 - Beulah | |||||||
Western areas Goat Dome Main Wall | |||||||
V5 | ★★ Thrutching the Goat - avec Ben Vincent, Benji Dutaillis | 6m | ★ Bon | ||||
Had a go at the start but didn't get into it properly. The B's had worked most of it but were struggling with the finish section, which I was happy to jump on and flash with my weird caving tactics.
|
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Dim 28 Mars 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | |||||||
V7 | ★★★ 7th Rule of Fight Club (Fight Club Extension) - avec Ben Vincent, Benji Dutaillis, Katrina | 7m | |||||
Had one tired burn coming out of the crack, have some weird ideas about cutting sick and doing an inverted foot lock and topping out in reverse
|
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Ven 8 Jan 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Fight Club - avec Ben Vincent | 5m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Another misty drizzly day, early start with 5 pads and a rope not sure what we'd do and FC was in good condition. A wicked super session, after only one or two attempts and I was back to my furthest point again - and for all the other attempts I don't think I ever didn't get back to this point, the first crux is now dialed. After Ben showed the way I got on just after the first crux and linked all the remaining moves to the nose-twiddle finish on my first go, and after that I thought I had it in the bag as I could now do every move. Tried linking it from the start, and then again and again, with longer breaks and more prep between them slowly mangling my fists and ankles and draining the energy reserves. After one really long rest refuel and complete re-tape I had one last burn and gave it everything, and got further than ever, only 3 moves from the finish, but was totally spanked. Got some wild toe and shin cramps afterward. Heaps of hand, wrist and ankle bruises, right wrist is quite swollen now. Masochism as its finest
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Jeu 31 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
North rim boulders Perfect cleavage area | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Christmas Custard - avec Ben Vincent, Benji Dutaillis | 5m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Had a few goes and with Benji's beta I can statically press through the crux but come up literally millimetres short of the jug finish! Moving my right hand in further puts me off balance. I'm probably going to need to stem my right foot out. It's a fairly big fall
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Mar 29 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Fight Club | 5m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Solo mission with 3 pads and a portable fan. It started sprinkling as I packed the car and I drove through a couple showers. The rock was still good and had a great sess with more than a dozen burns and another foot of progress. Past the crux (first?) and into decent fist jam rest and inverted. Another 2 foot of slightly flaring hands and fists remains. The sky opened as I packed up and I walked out in drenching rain.
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Sam 26 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Fight Club - avec Benji Dutaillis, Jonny | 5m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Another scout just to see how spoogy it was, totally mint so shoe'd up and ended up progressing to a new hight point all the way to the fist jam and then tenuously matched. Was right on the index knuckle, if I'd sunk it just an inch deeper I think it would have been done!?
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Dim 20 Déc 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Above the private sector | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ 50 calories in 50 seconds - avec Ben Vincent, Benji Dutaillis | 3m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Water level was fairly high into the cave so did a bit of rock building first. Afters the boys had a few goes thought I should too. Probably 5 or so goes, starting from the higher fist jam, had one fairly decent go (the first?) where I got pretty high and kinda arm barring. After some discussion we have consensus that this is not a V3 and probably more like V5
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Jeu 16 Juil 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Central Boulders Little Ayers | |||||||
V4 V6 | ★★★ The crack SDS (The crack SDS project) - avec Ben Vincent | 4m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
But then I found some energy for working the sit start to this crack. I kinda thought I'd done this back in the day, it's a super burly layback and if you can get through the first 50cm then it eases up. First go I did maybe 4 moves and was totally thinking I'd get it again the second time, and then it just shut us both down. Had a bunch of goes. Sit start might be more like V4-V6 as a layback, maybe less using some inverted offwidth foot jams and chicken wings if you can figure it out
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Jeu 16 Juil 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Central Boulders Pseudoephedrine Boulders | |||||||
V8 | ★★ Body Darma - avec Brendan Heywood | 4m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Next....
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V8 | ★★ Body Darma - avec Ben Vincent, Benji Dutaillis | 4m | |||||
We tried super-gluing our finger tips which seemed to work pretty well consider how many attempts we had and didn't rage quit after the 3rd attempt. Its been yonks since I've been on this, I re-figured out how to hold the left crimp, the right is still fairly painful.
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Jeu 2 Juil 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Central Boulders Vulcanology area | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Vulcanology - avec Ben Vincent, Thor | 4m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Was totally wrecked after a big day, we almost didn't stop but Ben was keen. After he had a couple goes I mentally geared up and had a solid cracker of an attempt, essentially did the crux, got my foot placement perfect, and was rocking over into the top out and just choked. Has another 4-5 goes but none quite as good and was then just smashed. Froth!
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Jeu 2 Juil 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Central climbing areas Private sector | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Predalien - avec Ben Vincent, Thor | 4m | ★ Bon | ||||
Was getting pretty juiced by this stage on dusk
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V5 | ★★★ Sunset Aliens (Chestburster) - avec Ben Vincent, Thor | 8m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
I was pretty cooked and couldn't hold the thing crimp so I worked dynoing to the jug and was about an inch away. I might be able to stick the less good lip just under the jug
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Jeu 2 Juil 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Yoda's cave | |||||||
★★ The mantle project - avec Ben Vincent, Thor | 1m | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Brutal fun
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