The Big Pump 🚫 Principalement Bloc 32 voies en falaise

A pumpy number that climbs like one long boulder problem. Thought provoking moves up the face followed by generous holds through the roof. RBs the whole way.

Start up the nudist. When you get to the anchors throw for a big move right around the mossy face then follow the lip of the roof for another 5m on a sightseeing tour of bygone bolts (clip the fresh ones though). Finishes at chains, second or back-jump to clean.

Start up from the sloping rail and move quickly to the chalked jug. A series of big moves through increasingly bad slopers brings you to the roof. Even bigger moves to more friendly holds on the lip and swing on through to the anchors of the Nudist Route. 2 FHs followed by 2RBs to the anchor. Grade in the realm of 25. Stick-clipping the first bolt strongly recommended.

Start below the beginning of Mummy Dust and dyno your way up to a good jug near the first manky bolt. The arete and big break are off, as is matching hands.

Long moves on jugs! Start on the big break a bit right of the arete / start of 'Mummy Dust' and dyno up to the next chalked jug. Continue up to same finishing hold for '2'. Good one to get the juices flowing.

Grade aligned with other routes here, might be V2?

A powerful and desperate crag classic. Start matched on the bottom sloper rail and power up the slopey ramp, past an edge, to the finish jug up high (on 'The High Traverse').

Phillip Booth

Originally climbed back when the pyramids were being constructed. Now on some more friendly bolts. Start up the boulder problem 6, then do another boulder problem, followed by a dyno and another 2 boulder problems to get to the anchor. The grade is an absolute guess, and the real name and first ascensionist is a mystery. (does anyone know?)

Start up Mummy's Old Carrots, clip the anchor and climb past the fixed nut into the crack below the roof. Follow this all the way until it fizzles out past multiple blobs of old coach screw. Back jump (consider re-aiding if too tired) to clean. Whispers amongst the local trees suggest that back in the day this was in the realm of 28/29 but someone local and wise may have some more solid information on this (as well as the real name and FA).

Start on the low ridge edge just right of the start of the recess. Go up via big chalked scoop to the 'The High Traverse' avoiding the chalked holds on the right baby arete. Then continue left and finish matched on the final hold of '7'.

Another easy warm-up for the cave. Start as for '8' on the right side of the cave then go up and traverse left on the high chalked holds (reversing 'The High Traverse'). Match on the final hold for '7' to finish.