Aide

Point Glorious

  • Contexte de la cotation : AU
  • Photos : 8
  • Ascensions : 129

Saison

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Description

Beautiful views and picnic area are on offer, as well as a small number of nice climbs on good rock.

Limit. de l'accès

Located in Mapleton National Park. Climbing and abseiling are allowed here and anchor rings have been provided at various points along the top to facilitate this.

Approche

'Point Glorious' is in the Sunshine Coast hinterland. To get there, drive through the township of Yandina. Follow Cooloolabin Rd for about 15 minutes before taking Buckby Rd to the right, then follow the "Point Glorious" signs. About 15 minutes is on dirt road with the last section signed as "high clearance 4WD recommended". Ignore this, the road is fine for 2WDs.

The climbs are under the lookout. Most are accessed via a signposted track heading off the road to the left just as you're arriving at the carpark.

Voies

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Cotation Voie

Climbs are listed right to left, as you approach them.

The first three climbs are on the buttress seen straight ahead as you scramble down the access track.

Beneath the left most set of anchor rings. May be a good beginner Trad climb. Gear is a bit fiddly but you can practise on toprope.

FFA: Matt Pelekanos & Christine Lethbridge

Straight up the steep orange face. Climb carefully through the loose rock at the start before encountering some bouldery sequences on the steep wall. Big moves lead out left, before moving back right to the final bolt and a hard topout. 5 ringbolts, finish on the same platform as 'Future History'.

FA: Matt Schimke, 2010

Linkup. Climb 'Kidney Cave' to the third bolt, then move left to finish up the last two bolts of 'Future History'. A good way to avoid the crux of KC.

FA: Matt Schimke

Climbs the arête on the left of the 'Kidney Cave' face. Start between a small tree and an old tree trunk. Up to ledge on left then straight up arête to an interesting top out. Step across the void and scramble up a few metres to state forest installed mega ringbolts.

FA: Matt Schimke, 2010

Continuing around the corner left from 'Future History'...

Up the obvious chimney 10m right of 'Heartattack and Vine'. The first half contains a lot of loose rock.

FA: Claire Jorgensen, 11 Juil 2015

Climb starts 3m Left of Chimney Sweep. P1 10m up steep face left of chimney past 4 FH's then up passing another FH and sling tree to DBB on ledge. P2 10m follow line of 5 x FH's to DBB or top out to belay off council ring anchors.

FA: Mason Minto, Lisa Gumley & Jon Selsby, Déc 2018

Starts 2m right of 'Heartattack and Vine'. A few hard moves through the overhang then up easily to top. Dirty, but the top provides a good, alternate finish to 'H&V'. 6 ringbolts, good idea to preclip the first, anchors shared with 'H&V'.

FA: Matt Schimke, 2011

Scramble up easily to base of intimidating overhang and stick clip first bolt. Fun pumpy moves through this (+/- a heartattack!) to the slab above. Take a step left and continue up interesting rock to a ledge. Anchor is on right side of ledge (shared with RFO).

FA: Matt Schimke, 2011

Climb starts 1m right of Old Gregs Crack. Pockety line marred with a bit of chose down low.

Équip.: Mason Minto, Simon Tehan & lisa Gumley, Jan 2018

FFA: Cal, 22 Oct. 2023

'Old Greg's Crack' climbs the tall vertical buttress with the perched boulder on top to the left of the 'Heartattack and Vine' overhang.

Start at the lefthand end of the buttress. Follow a crack straight up to the perched boulder. Traverse right along the slabby ledge to an awesome splitter crack. Up this to finish over the top.

FA: Matt Schimke, Terry Forbes & Oliver Rickford

The next two routes are accessed by rapping in. To find the rap point, jump the righthand end (looking out) of the metal fence of the main part of the lookout. Scramble down a rough route and across to the top of a buttress with a big perched rock (Egg Rock). Walk around the left side of Egg Rock and you will find a rap station. Rap straight over the edge (10m) onto a small ledge, from where both routes start. The ledge is big enough to accommodate 3 or 4 people.

Starts up easily from ledge for 2 bolts before moving right onto the face. Take a step right at the overhang and up the finger crack to a steep topout and chains on boulder above. Terry insists everyone mantles the very top 'egg' boulder and stands on top victoriously for the full ascent!

FA: Terry Forbes & Matt Schimke

Same start as 'Roc Egg Rock' but veers left after the second bolt. Interesting slab moves until a stopper crux over bulge to high anchors out left. Add a grade if you are short.

FA: Matt Schimke

Le saviez-vous ?

Saviez-vous que vous pouvez créer un compte pour enregistrer, suivre et partager vos ascensions ? Des milliers de grimpeurs le font déjà.

Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Auteur·e·s: Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Auteur·e·s: Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

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