Noeuds dans Berchtesgadener Alpen

(AVE 10) Berchtesgadener Alpen - österreichische Seite

Crags around Salzburger Hochtron and approach from St Leonhard (Austria). Berchtesgadener Hochthron - please look at http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/germany/berchtesgaden/area/356279370

Approach 8 minutes

Climbing: 30 minutes

Back: 15 minutes

Same start as 'Trouble with my girl'

Same top as 'Sinnlos'

First repeat by Adam Ondra (16/06/2009).

Hochkönig massive is an alpine limestone area around Hochkönig peak (2941m47.4203339, 13.0624483)

Hochkönig (2941m47.4203339, 13.0624483) is the highest peak of the massive and provides a long south face for excellent alpine climbing.

It goes first three pitches with Dientenerweg, then it turns left and goes up. There is a single bolt at each belay and occasional bored pitons in the route, but 15m run-outs with no protection possible in grade 5-6 are common.

Exposed, beautiful climbing in perfect rock, gymnastic moves high above protection and overall esthetics make this a unique legendary climb that everyone talks about, but few climbs it.

A really scenic and easy route on the south face of Hochkönig. Rock is mostly solid, some pitches are on rumble terrain.

Approach on Birgkar steig then some minor glacier traverse. Depending on knowledge most pitches can be freed. Climbing took us 6 hours with 4 rope-climbed pitches.

For topo visit: https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/franzlweg-jubilaeumsweg-hochkoenig/

Grosser Bratschenkopf (2857m47.4195089, 13.0793008) is another major peak in the massive with high south face.

Feels harder than indicated.

It is told that the bolts are not very good (too short).

Route starts at a corner on the left side of the face. Perfect rock, not much protection, No bolts.

Pitches

6+, 5, 6-, 6-, 4+, 6, 6+, 4

Pitches:

4, 5-, 6-, 6-, 7-

Pitches

5+, 6-, 7, 6, 7, 6+

Tiny groves, delicate moves, long beautiful climbing sections. Bolts, but sparse.

Pitches:

4, 5, 6-, 6-, 7-, 4+

Follow gold bolds. Nice, the crux pitch is memorable - delicate, ice moves, all the pitch long. The very crux is at the start (small hold broke off, so consider grade 7), then sustained 6+.

It starts at the ramp.

Pitches:

5, 7, 6, 5+, 5

It starts at the beginning of the ramp.

Pitches:

5, 6, 6-, 6, 6+

On the edge of the central pillar. Bolts where needed.

Crux feels harder.

Pitches:

7+, 5+, 7-, 7-, 5+, 6-, 5

Obvious corner on right side of the central pillar.

Pitches:

5, 4+, 4+, 5+, 5, 5, 5

At right part of the face towards the first small tower.

A peak (2708m47.4346222, 13.1071556) in eastern part of the massive with excellent south face.

West part of Östrlicher Schoberkopf south face

At right side of the slab

On left side of a pillar at right side of the slab

An obvious arrete in the center of the south face with steep exposed face climbs.

In the center of Teuflskirchl

On right side of the pillar. Sustained, exposed.

Route starts from grass band on the right side of the face. It goes a bit to left.

Pitches:

6, 5, 5, 6-, 5, 5, 6

Bolted.

Route starts from grass band on the right side of the face, right to Genusskonig.

Pitches:

4+, 5, 4, 3, 3, 6-, 6-