Noeuds dans Berchtesgadener Alpen

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Berchtesgadener Alpen

(AVE 10) Berchtesgadener Alpen - österreichische Seite

Untersberg - Salzburger Hochtron

Crags around Salzburger Hochtron and approach from St Leonhard (Austria). Berchtesgadener Hochthron - please look at

Untersberg - Salzburger Hochtron
Kleine Südwand
Untersberg - Salzburger Hochtron Kleine Südwand
4+ Rauher Weg
Some like it hot
Untersberg - Salzburger Hochtron
Untersberg - Salzburger Hochtron Blausandpfeiler
Au so rauh
Mezzo Rosso
Wenn der Vater mit dem Sohne
Sesam öffne dich
Weder Blau noch Sand
Dolche Vita
Wia s wilds Wasser
Welcome to paradise
Kaiser Karl
Untersberg - Salzburger Hochtron
Hochthron Ostwand
Untersberg - Salzburger Hochtron Hochthron Ostwand
Im Reich der Zwerge
Untersberg - Salzburger Hochtron
Untersberg - Salzburger Hochtron Rosittenwand
5+ Via Pikolon
Untersberg - Salzburger Hochtron
Steinernes Meer
Steinernes Meer
D Weiße Gams

Approach 8 minutes

Climbing: 30 minutes

Back: 15 minutes

C Wildental
Steinernes Meer Stoissengraben
6a Knidlquag
6a+ Trachtenpunk
6b Saftig
6b Lametta
7a AKH
7a Foxhax
7b+ Pregnant
7b+ Geky
7a+ Reinbacher Kante
6c Route 10
6b+ Sturz
6c+ Listig
7a Kleckhescht
7a Trouble with my girl
7a Double Trouble with my girl

Same start as 'Trouble with my girl'

5c Daky
Route 17
5c Timezone
5c Rat & Tat
6a Tiefenhypnose
6a Sinnlos
5b Ebenso

Same top as 'Sinnlos'

Route 23
7a+ Nix für ungut
6b Fisch und Ente
6b John's way
6c+ Route 27
Endstal Triangel
9a Om

First repeat by Adam Ondra (16/06/2009).

Hochkönig Massive

Hochkönig massive is an alpine limestone area around Hochkönig peak (2941m47.4203339, 13.0624483)

Hochkönig Massive

Hochkönig (2941m47.4203339, 13.0624483) is the highest peak of the massive and provides a long south face for excellent alpine climbing.

Hochkönig Massive Hochkönig
6+ Gloria Patri

It goes first three pitches with Dientenerweg, then it turns left and goes up. There is a single bolt at each belay and occasional bored pitons in the route, but 15m run-outs with no protection possible in grade 5-6 are common.

Exposed, beautiful climbing in perfect rock, gymnastic moves high above protection and overall esthetics make this a unique legendary climb that everyone talks about, but few climbs it.

5+ Franzlweg

A really scenic and easy route on the south face of Hochkönig. Rock is mostly solid, some pitches are on rumble terrain.

Approach on Birgkar steig then some minor glacier traverse. Depending on knowledge most pitches can be freed. Climbing took us 6 hours with 4 rope-climbed pitches.

For topo visit:

Hochkönig Massive
Grosser Bratschenkopf

Grosser Bratschenkopf (2857m47.4195089, 13.0793008) is another major peak in the massive with high south face.

Hochkönig Massive Grosser Bratschenkopf
7- Weg der Chaoten

Feels harder than indicated.

7 Freier als Paul Preuss

It is told that the bolts are not very good (too short).

Hochkönig Massive
Hochkönig Massive Torsäule
Hochkönig Massive Torsäule Südwand
6+ Heisse Liebe

Route starts at a corner on the left side of the face. Perfect rock, not much protection, No bolts.

6+, 5, 6-, 6-, 4+, 6, 6+, 4
7- Asterix und Obelix
4, 5-, 6-, 6-, 7-
7 Idefix
5+, 6-, 7, 6, 7, 6+

Tiny groves, delicate moves, long beautiful climbing sections. Bolts, but sparse.

7- Golden Ladies
4, 5, 6-, 6-, 7-, 4+

Follow gold bolds. Nice, the crux pitch is memorable - delicate, ice moves, all the pitch long. The very crux is at the start (small hold broke off, so consider grade 7), then sustained 6+.

7 Regentanz

It starts at the ramp.

5, 7, 6, 5+, 5
6+ Nebeltanz

It starts at the beginning of the ramp.

5, 6, 6-, 6, 6+
4 Schluchtkante

On the edge of the central pillar. Bolts where needed.

7+ Südpfeiler 93

Crux feels harder.

7+, 5+, 7-, 7-, 5+, 6-, 5
5+ Südverschneidung

Obvious corner on right side of the central pillar.

5, 4+, 4+, 5+, 5, 5, 5
5+ Prechtig

At right part of the face towards the first small tower.

Hochkönig Massive
Östlicher Schoberkopf

A peak (2708m47.4346222, 13.1071556) in eastern part of the massive with excellent south face.

Hochkönig Massive Östlicher Schoberkopf
Westliche Schoberplatte

West part of Östrlicher Schoberkopf south face

Hochkönig Massive Östlicher Schoberkopf Westliche Schoberplatte
7- Feinspitz

At right side of the slab

7+ A0 Graue Eminenz

On left side of a pillar at right side of the slab

Hochkönig Massive Östlicher Schoberkopf

An obvious arrete in the center of the south face with steep exposed face climbs.

Hochkönig Massive Östlicher Schoberkopf Teuflskirchl
8- Venusfalle

In the center of Teuflskirchl

6+ Direkter Südostpfeiler

On right side of the pillar. Sustained, exposed.

Hochkönig Massive Östlicher Schoberkopf
Östliche Schoberplatte
Hochkönig Massive Östlicher Schoberkopf Östliche Schoberplatte
6+ Das Leben ist schön
6 Genusskönig

Route starts from grass band on the right side of the face. It goes a bit to left.

6, 5, 5, 6-, 5, 5, 6


6- Cinderella

Route starts from grass band on the right side of the face, right to Genusskonig.

4+, 5, 4, 3, 3, 6-, 6-

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