Aide
2
UIAA
5+6

Saison

J
F
M
A.
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Résumé

Hochkönig (2941m47.4203339, 13.0624483) is the highest peak of the massive and provides a long south face for excellent alpine climbing.

Description

Hochkönig south face is almost 1km high. It starts with an easy buttress (2-3) usually climbed solo and then continues with steep 600m face with excellent rock quality.

There is a small hut at the top where overnighting is possible, but it is often full and the night there may be uncomfortable. The access is relatively long (2-3 hours), the climb is long and the descent even longer (10km, partly on easy glacier)

Approche

From Arthurhaus or from Dientensattle on marked trail (2-3h).

Tags

Voies

Ajouter une(des) voie(s) Ajouter un topo Réorganiser Éditer en masse Cotations converties
Cotation Voie

It goes first three pitches with Dientenerweg, then it turns left and goes up. There is a single bolt at each belay and occasional bored pitons in the route, but 15m run-outs with no protection possible in grade 5-6 are common.

Exposed, beautiful climbing in perfect rock, gymnastic moves high above protection and overall esthetics make this a unique legendary climb that everyone talks about, but few climbs it.

FA: A. Precht, A. Grugger, M. Schweiger & W. Sucher, 1985

A really scenic and easy route on the south face of Hochkönig. Rock is mostly solid, some pitches are on rumble terrain.

Approach on Birgkar steig then some minor glacier traverse. Depending on knowledge most pitches can be freed. Climbing took us 6 hours with 4 rope-climbed pitches.

For topo visit: https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/franzlweg-jubilaeumsweg-hochkoenig/

FA: Richard Franzl, 1999

Le saviez-vous ?

Saviez-vous que vous pouvez créer un compte pour enregistrer, suivre et partager vos ascensions ? Des milliers de grimpeurs le font déjà.

Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Auteur·e·s: H. Berger, F. Dertnig, R. Kühberger

Date: 2022

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Activité

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