Calabogie Guide

Climb the short wall between the two trees. Gain the dihedral ramp and follow it until you can work your way through the crux to reach the hand sized crack that splits the main face. Plug bomber gear until you reach the big rest ledge. Step back onto the face and clip the bolt. A few easy moves lead to the top ledge with a bolted anchor on the half wall.

About 20 m left of sport routes on big slab. Start at the lowest point on the left corner of the slab. Make a series of moves trending left requiring good balance and slab technique until you can gain a small ledge with a horizontal seam of black rock and a small roof above. Use the black rock to pull up to and go left around the roof into a dihedral. Use the lip of the sloping ledge on your right and pull over it to find the bolted anchor (or option to step left and clip lone bolt on BrOkleys and carry on to that anchor).

Leftmost climb in this grouping, about 2 m left of "Steady as she goes". Up the large slab with a weakness trending left. Climb past a ledge and through the chimney to the bolted anchor. Decent protection throughout.

Recleaned September 2022 but could use another pass.

Start on the built dirt platform and head the low angle slab on the left. No real hard moves. The crux will be finding all the gear placements to keep your head cool. The route mostly takes nuts, including offsets, and will test your IQ on using them.

There were doubts about needing to bolt this climb. However, on the FA, 9 pieces of gear went in...

Leftmost bolted line on this slab.

Second bolted line from the left on this slab, just left of YDB. Start up a steep face at the very base of this big slab. Crux is at the bottom.

Gain the right trending blocks and then up past the piton and two bolts. Continue into the distinct crack and pull onto the large ledge near the top. Finish with a couple of moves up the crack to the bolted anchor just below the trees.

[Closed Project]

Start a few meters left of the dihedral. Follow the rightward trending cracks and step into the dihedral when they run out. Once on top of the dihedral, do some nifty moves to gain the bulge above by going just a bit left (two bolts here). Then traverse back right to get to the exit crack and the bolted anchor. Guessing that most the route goes around 5.8 but the bit that is bolted is likely 10-.

[Closed project]

Start in the dihedral left of "From Kingston with Love". Up and left to the big ledge. Then move right onto the face and continue ever upward to a wide ledge and a bolted anchor. Might be around 5.9.

[Closed Project]

Potential route through face just right of the new bolted route. Depending on the exact line could be around 5.10b?

Needs to be bolted and cleaned a lot more.

Direct technical line up to anchors of From Kingston with Love. Looking for consensus on a letter grade.

Start on Brokedown Palace. At the fifth bolt, cut left across the roof then head up a technical, crimpy crux before mantling onto a large ledge. Look left and finish up the inside corner.

Hardware provided through a climbing community fundraiser.

Follow the line of bolts up to the right of a small roof, then start plugging gear as you make your way up a diagonal of right facing flakes. At the large horizontal crack, look for the weakness that’ll take you straight up the steep face above.

Originally led ground-up with a pin or two – which were then replaced by bolts (the existing second and fourth). Additional bolts were added to the start in 2022 with the FA’s permission.

Start at a tree beneath the overhanging wall about 5m left of Termagant Dihedral. Climb the dead tree until you can step across onto the slab. Climb the nice slab on good rock until it is possible to escape right before the roof. Better protection and easier climbing to the right may be possible if slab is cleaned.

Start at the tree grouping about 30 feet left of the obvious arrete. Make your way up and right to reach the crack system. From here, the climbing gets gradually harder. The original FA went through the roof, but escaping right is possible making it a number grade easier. Beautiful movement on beautiful rock!

Modern free variation of Training for the Alpine

Not a sport route! Recommend stick clipping first bolt. Start on the right side of this very distinct aréte, delicately dance to the left and up past another bolt. Step left into a small groove from which some stellar crack climbing starts. Follow the crack up and then left to finish on a pedestal, bolted anchor. Single rack.

Accessible from the top by lowering from the rap-in anchor (see decription for Termagant Dihedral) and aiming climbers left.

Just right of a very distinct arete. Start up the crack in the dihedral and eventually escape the big overhang to the left and to the bolted anchor. Historically rated 5.8, but is comparable to 5.10b climbs in the area.

As of October 2022 there is a rapel anchor to lower to the top of this climb. Follow the trail all the way past the right end of the cliff, then head up and back along the top until you find a rope leading down a drop onto a good ledge and to that anchor. Termagant Dihedral's anchor is straight down, about 15 m. You can also easily access the anchor for Open Book / Hanging Dihedral, slight climbers right, and much higher than Termagant's.

Climb Termagant Dihedral and instead of exiting left, do a tricky traverse to the right below the roof, to a stance at the base of the open book. Climb the aesthetic finger crack that eases higher up and ends at the ledges with a 2 bolt anchor shared with the Hanging Dihedral. Bring a few long slings for the traverse.

Recleaned December 2022.

This climb starts at the base of the huge boulder that divides the "Left Side" and "Right Side". The first climbs at "Right Side" are right next to this one, but start on top of the huge boulder right of this climb.

Start behind a large arrowhead shaped block that threatens to turn you into a hand puppet the higher you climb past it. Climb atop the block, then up the thin flakes to the first bolt, then pull onto the face to reach a stance. Continue past a large hollow looking flake then make delicate face moves to reach the first overlap. A few thrilling moves with bolts take you up and right to the base of the right-facing hanging dihedral. Continue up dihedral and make awkward exit to the left onto the large ledge shared with Open Book. Climb ledges to the shared 2-bolt anchor (30m rap).

Can be top-roped with some rope-drag by accessing the anchor from above using the rap-in anchor. Recleaned December 2022.

The left-most of three climbs start on top of the huge boulder. Start by going up the boulders on the left side of this area. Then follow cracks up and left to skirt the left edge of the roof. Then finish up a nice crack to the bolted anchor. Likely harder than modern 5.8.

Recleaned (Nov 23).

Climb up the very obvious right-facing flake, toward a small roof. Step right before you get to the roof, then up toward a large roof. Escape leftwards past the roof. Continue up and left to the bolted anchor. Good protection throughout. Historical grade of 5.4.

From the anchor you can follow a rope out (can be used for top-rope access as well - access cliff top on the far right) or to a rapel anchor to lower into Termagant Dihedral, Hanging Dihedral, and the Falcon Strikes Back. Recleaned Fall 2022.

Needs to be recleaned.

Climb Marcus’ route to a ledge capped by roofs and traverse right to a short left - facing dihedral capped by another roof. Aid through the roofs to a sloping ledge at the base of a longer left - facing dihedral and continue to the top. Thin.

This route has a bit of everything, with an outstanding view!

Stick clip a high first bolt and work through a techy slab boulder before you mantle onto the ledge. Climb through another crux to progressively easier climbing until you reach the no hands rest. Find the your way through the bulges to a pumpy crux where the anchor is in your face but you can’t clip it.

The ledges around the no hands rest are used by the falcons to clean their kills before feeding them to their young. In years where falcons are using the nest don’t be surprised if you’re climbing through the remains of their kills in fall.

Long climb that leads into the big roof above. Route is closed due to Big death blocks that need to be removed, 1 bolt missing and cleaning needs to be done. Equip by Joe Skopec

Climb up a very narrow short ramp (or the thin half - moon cracks to its right), then up past the one bolt, traverse right and then up the left-facing corner crack. Climb past the anchor for "Fast Dreams" (on your right) and continue to the bolted anchor. Good protection throughout. Historically rated 5.8.

Recleaned 2023.

Start below an obvious flake at the left edge of the steep, clean wall. Climb the flake then move right to a short left - facing corner/seam. Climb through a hard and reachy boulder problem up and right before moving back left. Continue up the vertical wall to the lower off.

Start just right of Fast Dreams, just left of a ramp (often wet). Climb straight up the face, staying just left of the wet ramp. A series of underclings leads to a very hard boulder crux. Continue up and left through tricky 5.11 climbing to the lower off.

Shares the same start of Piton Route but then follows the bolt line up the centre of the wall.

Extended draws for the first three bolts recommended.

(Please note this route can't be bolted direct due to the massive detached block)

Follow a clear ramp up and right. Protection is decent, but bring small gear for the last section before the bolted anchor. Recleaned September 2022.

Starts just before the base rises up sharply. Start at the right trending crack, gain first shelf. Aim up and right to the next shelf and then up along the dihedral. Keep following bolts through the steep finish to the shared anchor with Piton Route.

Keep your eye out for some old pitons, but this is now bolted for sport. Be careful in the dihedral about 3 bolts up. There is still some loose stuff in the crack behind the block that should be removed.

Shares the first 6 bolts with Illuminati. After bolt 6 follow the diagonal crack up and left. Clip the first sleeve bolt (no nut/thread) and use some citizen science creativity to get through the crux. Power through the small holds and NASA propaganda to clip the anchor. Congratulations, the earth is still not flat.

For bonus points, at bolt 5 use the undercling/side pull out left to stay on the face.

Start in the little gully under the first bolt. Work the v0 boulder problem start and gain the slab. Cruse straight up to the crystal filled crack. Crimp up the crack until it runs out then head right a bit. Head up the pink face to the chains. Stick clip recommend.

Start in the small dihedral. Head up the slab into a larger dihedral. Avoid the temptation to head left out of the dihedral or you will end up on "Illuminati" and have a harder finish. Exit the top of the dihedral heading right and up to the chains.

Start directly under the first bolt. Climb though the sweet slab and mantle you way to the headwall. Find the crystal filled diagonal crack and work your way up into the shallow, broken dihedral on the right and up to the anchors.

Start between the two trees. Go up the friendly slab, then make your way through the delicious jugs. Gain the ledge and contemplate your choices in life. Believe in yourself, find the crimps and sidepulls. You got this! Send it!

Work though low overhang bulge onto the ledge and work your way though the crimpy face and quartz filled crack.

Jam though the nice hand crack right of the overhanging bulge to gain the ledge. Work up the flake and crimps into easier ledges. Removal of a leaning flake has increased the difficulty of this route and made the moves above the ledge a bit sketchy. Another bolt may be added between 3 and 4 to make it safer.

Climb onto the ledge, then the block. From there, enjoy an easy boulder problem to the finish.

Start at the very beginning of the cliff, where a large boulder has fallen off. Step up onto an undercut brown slab. Climb up to the roof, then move left onto a broken slab. Climb it easily to the top.

Where the trail first meets the cliff at the north end is a large boulder which recently (geologically speaking) fell off the cliff. Start just to the right of this boulder at a right-facing dihedral, initially using an obvious jam crack. Climb to the top of the dihedral (8m) to a nice ledge and anchors to the right. Well cleaned as of June 2021. Shares anchors with Proboscis. Dihedral sounds hollow so treat placements with suspicion.

Climb straight up the face midway between "Crack and Jugs" and "Another Stroll". Thin and thoughtful climbing followed by some obvious slab to anchors. 3 bolts added to lower half of climb in place of the knife blades and pitons used by FA. A fourth bolt was added later to protect unsuspecting sport climbers. Cleaned June 2021 and anchors installed.

Back in the day, when it was a trad climb, this was graded 5.6. With the "upgrade" to a sport climb, the grade has, also, been upgraded to a more modern 5.8.

A variation to "An Easy Stroll". Climb up the dihedral on the left side of the column-like ridge. Exit as for "An Easy Stroll". Top anchor.

Start 6m to the right of "Crack and Jugs", at the base of a column-like ridge. Climb up the right side of the ridge in a wide dihedral to a small maple tree (8m). Face climb straight up to anchor.

Start on An Easy Stroll. Before the roof, traverse left and finish on Hump Day using the right facing dihedral for gear placement.

Start as "Hump Day". At the roof, head straight though on undercling and good sidepulls. Once on the slab above traverse left to anchors.

Immediately right of An Easy Stroll. Stay out of the dihedrals on both sides. Good sidepulls and good but thin crimps to the third bolt. Head right on balancy moves to easier interesting climbing. Top is a bit run out but takes cams. 5.6 if you use the dihedrals.

Start about 1m right of "Hump Day", below a jagged left-facing flake.

Climb up to the left-facing flake and to the top of it. Then angle up and slightly left to the right-facing dihedral and up to the "Hump Day" anchor, ignore "Hump Day"'s bolts in favour of the fine gear in the dihedral.

Start 2m right of "An Easy Stroll", 1m to the left of an obvious sloping roof. Move up to a V-notch, then past an overhang and up a small right-facing easy-angled dihedral to the top.

Climb through the obvious break in the overhangs 3m right of "The Go Between", then straight to the top.

The crux right-step under the roof is hard to protect, and likely to be a ground fall if you fail to make the move successfully.

Finishes nicely at "Breakfast Beer"'s anchor -- and is a fun TR from that anchor if you don't have trad gear.

An obscure line, but more interesting than it looks. To the right of "An Easy Stroll" is an obvious roof. Start at the right end of this roof, immediately right of "One Over". Step up onto a small slab just off the ground and climb it to near its right end. Pull directly up and over a small overhang. Continue up, passing over several very small overhangs, then straight up the face to the top.

Start under the first bolt. Use hidden small crimps and sidepulls to gain the second bolt though an interesting sequence then proceeded through the easier (5.6) mini-roof tiers trending left. Slabby top joins Fallus at last mini-roof. Stick clip recommended -- crux is very low and clipping hold for first bolt is bad for grade.

Be mindful of the potential swing while cleaning this route. Keep an eye on your rope above you and communicate with your belayer.

Stand up on the detached triangular block to the right of fallus. Mantle into the gully then sright onto the face and up. Protection tenuous in the middle. Maybe a star if it was clean.

FA probably not me. Its a fairly obvious line that has likely seen previous climbs.

Follow the line of bolts through the burly overhanging start on some hidden holds into a precarious mantle. Pull though the juggy roof into some thin cracks. Cruise the slab to the top. First bolt is a difficult clip, particularly if short, stick clip advised.

Look for a 6m long elongated boulder at the base of the cliff, with two cedar trees growing on top. Start directly behind the right (now dead) cedar tree. Face climb straight up 6m to a small overhang. A tricky move on good holds allows one to pull over the overhang moving slightly left. Then easy climbing to the top, now with a bolted anchor.

Cedar Hollow has been cleaned & retro-bolted (3 bolts), with a plaque now labeling it as "Breakfast in Vienna, 5.9 T".

Just right of Breakfast in Vienna is a second bolted line with a faded plaque.

A good candidate for your first 5.11

Originally put up as a rarely climbed mixed route, now retrobolted as sport in hopes it will see more traffic. Two new bolts have been added to replace the need for gear on the easy upper slab. If you wish to climb it in the original style do not use bolts 3 and 5.

Fa/developer unknown.

Start 4.5m right of Cedar Hollow. Follow a small gully up and slightly right from a clearing to an overhang. Proceed up to a pine tree, then up slabs to the top.

Alerte Roche: Loose blocks at the roof

Start 10m right of 'Cedar Hollow', where the ground starts to rise, directly underneath the extreme left end of a long roof near the top of the cliff.

Start straight up on good holds, then aim for an obvious cleft in the rock below an obvious vertical crack. Follow this to the roof and traverse to the left to avoid the roof and continue to top.

Now with bolted anchors.

Climb the short dihedral to the roof. Escape roof to the right then trend left and up though the black water stain on pocket crimps into easy rails to the anchor.

A significantly harder variation goes 11+ if you pull directly though the roof at the first bolt and stay on the black water stain.

A 10m wide slab above a high point in the lower trail, with an extensive scree field at its base, is easily climbed along its left edge.

Start at a point 30m right of the First Easy Way Down and 10m left of the point at which the trail climbs up around a large boulder. A solitary cedar 1/2 way up the cliff distinguishes the route. Starting above a juniper bush, pull directly over a small overhang, traverse slightly left to a large ledge, move diagonally up and right to the cedar, then finish straight to the top.

Start just left of first bolt on juggy rail. Pull though the overhang trending right though more juggy rails. Find one of the many ways from the third bolt straight up the slab. Alternate start goes straight up from the first holds into the small dihedral and then heads right over the first bolt -- goes 9+ and avoids the glorious jugs. Most of the action is before the first bolt, stick clip recommend.

Start left of "Make It So" under the bulbous small roof. Pull though decent holds onto featured slab. Joins "Make It So" at 3rd bolt. This climb is unsafe to bolt/lead as the entire bottom slab is hollow. Belay should stand as "Make It So" with a redirect though the second bolt to avoid line trap.

Climb though the broken corner then up the slab. First bolt crux, stick clip advised. Bottom and the ledge half way could use a bit more gardening but it is in climbable shape.

Start right of "Make It So" pull some interesting moves to the first bolt. Cruize upwards trending left into the mini-roof at the 3rd bolt. Pull straight up though the mini-roof and gain the slab (crux) and then enjoy the somewhat sustained slab to the anchors. Crux can be avoided by heading left into the dihedral at the 3rd bolt (5.9)

Alerte Faune et flore: Poison Ivy

Easy slab climbing to the second bolt. Pull the crux bulge which is somewhat reachy onto easy ground to the top.

Work though some cryptic hard slab to gain the second bolt. From there put power though the sustained fingertip seam and the plethora of bad holds in the slightly overhung dihedral. Then enjoy the easy jugs though the overhung v-notch to the anchors.

Climb up the obvious line through the big overhang left of "The Next Generation" and continue up the face above. Usually wet.

Climb up the face to the left of Real Men, keeping 1 to 2 metres right of the blunt arete.

About 60 meters left of pull up at the base of the cliff where the large boulders are. Climb up some easy slab to the first bolt, bolt line then follows a black mineral stain up the wall.

"Prime Time" is a re-bolted version of "The Next Generation".

From the old guide, "Three bolts were placed before the first ascent. These were all removed by Steve Adcock in November, 1989." These old bolt-holes are clearly visible as one climbs.

Start directly beneath the left end of a large spectacular roof. This roof can be distinguished by the way it gains height in steps, from right to left. Climb straight up the steep slab to the base of the roof and traverse slightly left. Climb straight out to the outer ledge of the roof using an obvious finger crack (excellent protection if you have the strength to hang around and place it). Once past the roof, move slightly right and then up, past two pitons.

Now a bolt protecting the hard move though the roof.

"5.9 if you're a real man; 5.10 if you've got some brains."

A few meters left of "Pull Up" is a slab of rock dyed black from water running down. In the spring this is covered in ice, and there are ice climbs on this section in the winter.

Climb up, staying to the left out of the dihedral, over the bulges on thin holds, to a solid cedar at the top.

Climb the dihedral, veering left up features just below the cedar (anchor).

Start as for "Black Book", but move onto the right face of the dihedral and climb staying completely on the face, using the arrete for hands, to the top, and then traverse to finish below the cedar.

It is possible to bypass the crux of "Assimilation" by heading left early on large chalk covered holds and traversing a few meters off the bolt line before coming back to an awkward clip then heading left again and rejoining "Assimilation" above in the dihedral under the roof. The bypass is 5.8ish and has a nasty pendulum fall potential.

Small but positive crimps though the textured vertical face give way into jugs after a tricky crux sequence. Find the hidden crimps! Some fun moves into the roof lead to a strenuous traverse to the anchors.

Trade the interesting dihedral and roof traverse for a few big throws on jugs. Mind the tree. Head straight up after the 3rd bolt.

About 20m left of "Cosmic Teacup" and "Pull Up". Climbs a left-facing wall between a lower roof to the right, and higher diamond-shaped roof to the left. This is a great line not very sustained.

Retro bolted May 23, 2021 with FA permission for safety reasons after a significant rockfall event. More difficult bottom section warrants a letter grade.

Climb the bolt line up the face left of "Pull Up".

A bit run-out from the last bolt to the anchors - a small gear placement might add confidence.

From 'Flaky Flake', walk left along the cliff face, up and over a pile of scree then down again. There will be a slab with a wide zig-zagging crack going up to a ledge about 3m off the ground, with a small overhang about 1.5m above the ledge and a first bolt just above the overhang. Crux is pulling over the overhang, much harder if you are shorter than about 5'8". Then nice climbing up past 3 more bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

An obvious slab a few meter left of The Fly. Up a crack then diagonally left up the slab to the top.

So named because of the many pins (none of them good) used to protect the FA. The route has since been repeated without using any pins. It is poorly protected.

Note: it is not clear that the line indicated on the topo image is correct for this route -- the line, as indicated, is unlikely to go at anything near 5.6.

Start left of 'Flaky Flake'. Climb up onto a slab, then climb the obvious crack. (Harder than it looks.) Join Flaky Flake or finish left of that route.

Start 11m left of the 2nd Easy Way Down, where the obvious zig-zagging crack goes up the cliff. Climb up, generally angling left for the first half, then right, finishing at the large pine tree. Numerous variations are possible. (The flake of the name now rests in pieces at the bottom, courtesy of Gyula Pech, autumn 1985.) Anchors.

Start as "Flaky Flake" but continue straight up into the vertical finger crack. Passing to the right of the dead tree 2/3 way up. 2 bolts for anchors at top.

"Seconds Out" finishes on a rising right traverse -- if you take this line of weakness and trace it leftwards past where "Seconds Out" joins it at a pair of cedar trees all the way to flaky flake, it looks like an interesting line.

Climb the slab right of Flaky Flake until you reach the horizontal weakness, traverse right towards the pair of cedar trees, then finish as per "Seconds Out" -- a rising right traverse until there is an obvious break in the top of the cliff.

Start under the bulge right of "Nutty Nuts". Pull straight though the bulge for full value. Wind up some easy ground to the crux section at the top. 3rd set of bolted anchors at the top of wall if counting from "Flaky Flake".

Start just left of "Seconds Out" and head up angling leftwards towards a small overhang (with a bolt). Finish on a 2-bolt anchor.

Start 5m left of 2nd Easy Way Down, climb up 3m on good holds (shared with Seconds OUt) then pull straight over the small overhang and bulges above it. About 2m above the cedar tree (on the left), follow the thin crack up to the anchors at the top.

The upper face section gets quite thin, and is a committing lead for a 5.8.

Start 5m left of 2nd Easy Way Down. Climb up 3m on good holds, then traverse left to avoid a small overhang. Climb up to an obvious tree, then doing a rising rightwards traverse on various ledges, to exit through an obvious crack at the top of the cliff.

Shares the start for Seconds Out, look for a bolt on a fairly blank looking upper part of the face, right of the crack that Cool But Concerned climbs up. Climb up the initial dihedral then up and right (awkward) onto the ledge, then straight up to and past the bolt to anchors.

Starting just at the base of the ramp for 2nd Easy Way down, climb over the gentle bulges to a pair of bolted anchors.

This goes up the prominent corner just to the right of where the main lower trail comes up the talus slope to join the trail along the base of the cliff. From the top, this is just past the 2nd overlook, the 2nd place where the main trail along the top of the cliff comes out to the cliff top itself.

It is an easy slab section with a couple cedar trees on it, going to a short (about 3m) vertical section with big solid holds. At times, it is protected by a fixed rope.

Start 5m to the right of the "2nd Easy Way Down".

Really low first bolt, climb past one roof, up a slab, then pull another steep section on big holds.

Probably more like 5.8 in modern grades.

Start at a short left-facing dihedral with an obvious foot-jam crack. Climb 4m up the dihedral, traverse right along a sloping crack, then finish.

Start at the widest part of a low (1.5-2m high) overhang at the base of the cliff. A 1m wide slight bulge, in black (water discoloured) rock, marks the start of the route. The crux is getting on the rock. After getting on the rock, easy climbing (though with little protection) up and slightly left leads to an obvious break in the overhang at the top of the cliff.

Belay/anchor off the big pine tree at the top. (Often has slings on it, as this section generally has a good ice climb on it in the winter.)

Awkward to protect, and crux unprotectable (except by bouldering/spotting techniques) means this lends itself well to a top-rope climb.

To the right of Grunt, the trail goes up a small slope. Start where the trail first levels off, directly beneath a large Spruce tree at the top of the cliff.

1m left of Breakfast Cookie. Climb up and slightly left to a large V-shaped notch in the overhang. Continue through the notch to the spruce tree.

No bolted anchor, walk off or use the tree to rappel.

A bit to the left of "Phasers on Stun" are a couple new bolted lines, this is the one on the left. It goes up easy climbing to the first bolt, then winds its way through a series of roofs/bulges to anchors on the right side of a prow at the top of the cliff.

Currently (summer 2012) there is a small rock at the bottom with the name (Breakfast Cookie) and a grade (5.10b) on it at the bottom.

Between "Breakfast Cookie" and "Tipytoe" are a couple bolts, after the 2nd one the route heads up through a fairly substantial roof on gear.

Start below a bolt just left of Phasers on Stun. Climb up through the small roof bulge to the shared anchor with Phasers. Harder at the bottom, to easier climbing at the top. 2 bolts and 3 cams.

Start directly behind a cedar tree at the base of the cliff. There is a distinctive curving crack around a bulge 7m up the face. Climb straight up to this crack, continue up to a small roof, then traverse left 2m under the roof. Either continue traversing left to an easy exit, or climb straight up through the a notch in the roof ( a bit harder, maybe 5.6). Anchors.

Start up the rounded arete between Stun and Kill where there are two bolts. Make a few thin moves and a desperate throw into a bad thumbdercling and finish with Phasers on Kill.

Start 4m right of Phasers on Stun. Climb up a crack, move left and up to the base of a small overhang. Avoid this by stepping right and moving up a tricky dihedral to the top.

Apparently rock fall has made the upper section harder than it was when it was first climbed. Anchors.

Just to the right of Phasers on Kill, climb up the series of bulges. 4 bolts and 3 cams.

Start with Homeward Bound, climb pass crux and clip bolt prior traversing right on the big overhanging flake of Beam Me Up Scotty. Use sling at the bolt to reduce rope drag, and ensure to bring enough gear to protect the traverse/Second. Another fun finish for Homeward Bound.

A rather airy route, providing sustained difficulties. Start just to the right of Phasers on Kill at a short round-nosed arete. Climb up the arete to the base of a prominent dihedral (about 4m). Continue up the dihedral to a small triangular roof. Step left and move up to a large roof. At the back of the roof, use a finger crack to traverse 6m to the right, then exit straight up. Stepping up into the base of the dihedral is the crux, and it is poorly protected. Otherwise the route has excellent protection. (Friends 3 #1s, 2 #1.5s, 2 #2s.)

Climb the bolt line right of "Beam Me Up Scotty".

Opposite from Phasors on Kill. Start on left arete. Head right to decent edge on overhanging face. Head up on good edges and slopers.

Shares the first two bolts of Dolcezza Bikini and then moves left and finishes on Bat'leh.

Starts to the left of Vulcan Mind

Shares the first few moves with Vulcan Mind, but instead of traversing right, continues directly up the face above.

Start about 4m right of 'Beam Me Up Scotty', in the center of the overhanging wall. Climb up a flake and make a long reach up to a horizontal crack. Reach up right to another thin horizontal crack, and traverse out right almost to the arete. Step up into a thin crack, then out right around the arete and mantleshelf onto a good ledge (first rest). Step left and finish up a short notch.

With the 2011 retro-bolting, this probably no longer warrants the (historical) R rating, so removed.

Start with classic Vulcan Mind for 3 bolts then climb up the face section of Squeeze Play (5.11d). This climb features lots of different movements, sustain and fun, half length slings will reduce rope drag.

At the second bolt climb right into Lobotomy.

Starts a meter or so left of the obvious arete that is "Vulcan Mind direct", up the obvious left/undercling feature.

Stick-clip suggested for first bolt.

Climb the overhanging arete (3 bolts) at the right end of the section below the large roof, then finish on 'Vulcan Mind'.

Somebody has, apparently, added 3 bolts to this trad climb, making it purely a sport climb.

Just around the arete of 'Vulcan Mind' direct is a series of 4 bolted routes. This is the first of them, going up some overhanging terrain at the start, eases off, then pulls a final small roof.

(No longer needs a few cams or tricams (red, brown, optional black).)

Bolt route to the right of "I'm a Doctor, Not a Climber", climb the up past the left edge of the low roof though a slight notch, then up easier ground to anchors.

Run-out from last bolt to anchors, but easy ground or protectable with gear.

A direct variation to First Flight.

Pull directly over the notch rather than going right, then left to avoid the lower roof.

Run-out (ground fall possible) between 1st and 2nd bolt. Optional gear to protect.

Around the corner from the Star Trek sector is a mostly less-than-vertical wall with a couple low staggered roofs, with the left one being lower than the right. Start below a notch in the lower roof. Climb up and right bypassing the lower roof to the right, then traverse back left below the upper roof and pass it to the left, then up easier ground to anchors.

New bolt has been installed under the left edge of the 2nd bulge, no longer ground-fall potential.

(Was run-out (ground fall possible) between 1st and 2nd bolt. Optional gear to protect.)

Start 3m right of 'First Flight', underneath a small overhang 5m above the ground. Climb up and to the right on small holds, bypassing the overhang on its right side. Continue more or less straight to the top.

There is one bolt below the bulge and a 2nd bolt just over the lip of the bulge. The route has 3 bolts, takes some gear as well, and finishes with bolted anchors.

Start 2m right of "Calabogie Sunset". Climb straight up to an overhang with a small cedar on its lip. Climb straight through the overhang, past the cedar, to the top.

A quick route with a fun little hand traverse.

Stand at the first dihedral to the right of "Calabogie Sunset". On the left face, use big holds to climb up and slightly left for 6m. Do a short hand traverse to the right, using a horizontal finger crack. Follow a steep gully up to a large roof, and exit to the left underneath the roof.

Start just to the right of "Buck's First FA". Climb up and right on loose blocks for 6m, then continue up an obvious line to a large red pine tree.

If you continue along the cliff past the "Calabogie Sunset" face, you will come to another large roof near the top of the cliff.

This climb goes up a set of bolts near the left edge of the roof to anchors at the top.

Start up the bolts at the left end of the roof, then follow the bolts along the roof to exit out the right side.

Starts a few meters left of "Fogged Up" (aka "Too Many Puppies".) Stick clip suggested.

Start up a short slab into a small dihedral, then pass 4 small roofs.

On the FA attempt, a inch-thick dinner-plate sized rock came off the route... so David fell, but managed to hug the rock to his chest, rather than drop it... hence Rock Hugger.

Now (spring 2017) cleaned & bolted as a sport route, with a label stone as "Too Many Puppies 5.8S" - was graded 5.4 in the 80s as a trad route.

Start 5m to the right of a small cairn (yeah, right, like it's still there) and at the base of a steep slab facing right, 75m past the start of "First Flight". A short face leads to the base of the slab. Follow the slab to the top, generally keeping to its left edge, bypassing a cedar. The crux move involves stepping left onto a bulge (6m above the base of the slab) while using a horizontal break for a hand jam.

Climb the slabby left trending corner to stand on a block. Pull up on the next ledge, this is where the climb starts to get a little more serious. Pull over a small roof then a big roof with a V-notch using holds left and/or right of the notch.

Climbs over the same roof as Desert Trip to its right, with more consistent but easier climbing.

Climb a short face to a short slab to a bulge. Pull the bulge/roof to a ledge to the right. Then up and left over another bulge, then right to the anchors.

Climb easily to a high first bolt, then follow the glue-ins past a couple small roofs using a sharp arete.

Name-stone at base.

Start 10m right of "Fogged Up", at the base of a broken corner, 1m left of "Moje Zlato". There is a pine tree 8m up the cliff, 3m left of the corner. Climb the corner.

There are a pair of bolted lines up a left-facing wall, this is the left-most of the two of them.

This goes at about 5.9 if you stay on the face the bolts are on, but somewhat easier if you move into the corner to the left. Probably about 5.7 if climbed to the left.

The bolt line right of "Moje Zlato", climb the face and over the small roof.

The historically run-out (though with a clean fall) finish has, apparently, now had a bolt installed to protect it, above the crack in which the (historical, optional) piece would have been placed.

(Finish was a bit run-out, but can be protected with an (optional) piece in the horizontal finger crack. The block below the crack is hollow and a fall on gear could dislodge it.)

Anchor is in a big detached block.

Starts a couple meters right of Hakuna-Matata. Crux is low, stick clip 1st or 2nd bolt highly advised.

Start just left of Karma Points under the small roof. Head up to jug rail and pull directly though the roof onto the slab and up the slab. Finish on Karma Points at end of slab. Dihedral on right is completely out. Contrived eliminate. Has 2-3 great moves though the roof. Jug under roof on left is tempting, loose and not required as pinching the corner above is enough.

Shares Karma Points bolts. Suggest pre-cliping second bolt to avoid potentially serious swing.

Start up a blocky corner with big holds. After clipping the first bolt, step left onto a right-facing slab. At the top of the slab, climb a steeper face on good holds, them move right to the anchor.

Good climbing throughout.

About 100m right of Calabogie Sunset you will come around a bit of a corner to an easy-angled face with a couple bolt lines up it.

This now (fall, 2012) has a plaque at the bottom labelling it as "Stage Left 5.9".

This is the left-most of the two bolt lines. The first bolt is a bit high, so a placement before this bolt could help, though the climbing is also fairly easy. Crack has been retro-bolted with FA permission.

The right set of bolts up this face. If climbed directly over the bolts, goes about 5.7 -- but can be climbed at about 5.5 by drifting a bit off line either right or left into larger holds.

This now (fall 2012) has a chunk of rock at the bottom labelling it as "Stage Right 5.8 S".

Climb the open easy-angled face up a crack (just to the right of the bolts) to a small right-facing corner.

Protection is scarce and poor for the first 2/3 of the climb, but easy to find at the top.

Easy sport climb on the slab a couple meters right of stage right.

Has a sign posted naming it and giving a grade of 5.8 -- but this climb is no harder than 5.5. (It is considerably easier than Phasers on Stun - 5.5.)

A large rock has fallen from midway up the route. The remaining rock is not secure and avoiding it bumps up the difficulty. Still not 5.8 though

Follow the grassy area up and to the right of 'Shanti'. Often used as a top out to take the upper trail back to the road.

About 20m past Shanti, glue-in bolts up a slab with a small tree at the base.

Plaque labelling it as "Aint No Wifey 5.8 S", but grade is no harder than 5.6.

A few meters right of "Ain't no wifey", another line of glue-in bolts run up the cliff.

Plaque labelling as "Cheat Stick 5.8 S" at the base, but climb is no harder than 5.7.

Suggested grades have ranged from 10a to 11a on this equivocal route. At odds are the bolt line and the obvious path of least resistance left of the roof. 10c seems an honest compromise between the two, but every step farther left probably drops the route a letter grade.

Climbs up a short bit of slab to a vertical wall with green streaks and bolts. Up the face to a right facing corner/chimney right of a high roof, then finishes a bit left.

Try not to be lured off route by the chalk and crumbly jugs on the far left under the roof. Stay true to the bolt line for the full experience - and grade.

Alerte Protections: Loose bolt

Right of Hulk find a wonderful crack. Follow the perfect hand/fist crack up to the ledge. Escape left and head up the slightly overhung wall. Big holds and big moves to the anchor. Resist the urge of escaping right at the last bolt and head straight up to a victory jug. 5.9 if your tall, 5.harder if your short.

On the buttress just right of 'The Hulk' follow the crack system straight up the face and pull over the small roof. No bolted anchors, but there is a tree at the top.

Start in the corner left of 'Bolts are for Kids'. Follow the corner, with minimal gear, under the rock spike, seems solid but I wouldn't be caught hanging off the end. Continue up into the corner of loose rock, try to avoid the massive spiders. Continue right into the diheadral and climb through the tree to the top on a lot more choss. no bolted anchors, try not to send rocks down to those below, would not recomend repeating even if it was clean, unless you are into choss, spiders, and climbing through trees.

Climb the dihedral/crack system to the roof. Follow the crack though the roof and up.

Mixed climb. Interesting start into a well protected finger crack that spits you out onto a thin slab. Gear; #.5, #.75 and optionally a small TUC/X4 can probably go into the slab above the 3rd bolt and a #1 on the top out slab.

Climb three sections of slab past a small then a big ledge.

Fun burly roof project that goes entirely on gear awaits a first ascent.

Already cleaned and has anchors!

10m left of Cream Puff is a large roof with a slab below it, and the left side of the slab is a corner, start up the corner.

Climb the corner to the roof, traverse rightwards under the roof to the end of the roof, then pull up onto the slab. On the slab,can angle either right ("Cream Puff" anchors) or left (probably anchors for the sport/mixed route this crosses).

A few meters left of Cream Puff some bolts head up a couple of overhangs.