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Ascensions dans Nova Scotia

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Affichage de 1 - 100 sur 358 ascensions.

Cotation Voie Style d'escalade Qualité Grimpeur
Sam 16 Jan 2021 - Musquodoboit Valley Area
The Spot
5.8 Tradasaurus

#2 of the day. Frozen toes couldn't hold me back from trying this - since Jamie was so kind to rope solo it and leave the rope up, it gave me a chance to TR and clean it. Good route, will have to take a closer look at it when I'm not freezing my toes and hands off.

- avec Karla K, Jamie S
Trad 20m Good
Nick Boldt
5.7 5.9 Flake'n

#1 of the day. Very fun route. Downclimbed a bit near the start to remove a draw to eliminate some drag; skipped some draws to help with drag too, but it's probably hopeless. Can't fight the drag. Next time would use fewer draws entirely as it's a pretty safe (if runout) route that way. It's also been suggested to do it in 2 pitches, perhaps using the rings above Tradasaurus as a belay ledge.

Guidebook recommended rapping back down on Phat Tuesday rap rings, but we overshot that and ended up rapping off one of the Industrial Area routes - possibly Memories. It was dirty, slabby, icy, and only looked fun at the top over the roof, so... pulled the rope instead of making a TR boondoggle of it.

- avec Karla K
Sportive 55m, 15 Very Good
Nick Boldt
Sam 16 Jan 2021 - West Penant
Thoughtful Spot Trespassers Will Area
V0 Warm-up on Crack Bloc Good
Ian
V3 V3 to V7 Sandbag Corner Bloc Good
Ian
V2 Progresso Bloc Good
Ian
V3 Pigglet Bloc Average
Ian
Jeu 14 Jan 2021 - Annapolis Valley
Old Mill Crag
5.9 Whiskey Tango Foxtrot - avec Shauna Manning Moulinette Very Good
Cody Myre
Mer 13 Jan 2021 - West Penant
Thoughtful Spot Sean's Belt Boulder
V4 Sean's Belt Problem Bloc Very Good
Ian
Mar 29 Déc 2020 - Land of Confusion
Mega Boulder
V2 No Easy Way Bloc
Ian
Mar 29 Déc 2020 - Land of Confusion
Scrappy Boulders Main Boulder
V4 Gastropod Bloc
Ian
Lun 28 Déc 2020 - Land of Confusion
Bug City
5.9 War Pigs

Second lead-n-clean of the day. Mostly just scrubbed off a bunch of the slippery grey lichen on the face and the crunchy black stuff too. Fun climb, even with pauses to scrub.

- avec Karla K, Vanessa B, Lynette Reid, Jamie S
Sportive 7m, 4 Very Good
Nick Boldt
5.7 Biting the Head off a Chicken

Attempted the start of Ride The Lightning but couldn't get more than one step off the ground, so gave up and TR'd Biting the head instead. More lichen scrubbing enroute.

- avec Karla K, Vanessa B, Lynette Reid, Jamie S
Sportive 7m, 3 Average
Nick Boldt
5.8 Crazy Train

My first ever ground-up lead-n'-clean (clead?). Bit of a pain to scamper up the face, but with the big crack cleaned out a bit, should be more fun (and possibly a trad line now?). Unclear if that'll make it a lower grade or just a more fun climb.

Still more dirt to be scrubbed from the crack but at least now there are side pulls above and below it.

- avec Karla K, Vanessa B, Lynette Reid, Jamie S
Sportive 9m, 4 Good
Nick Boldt
Jeu 24 Déc 2020 - Musquodoboit Valley Area
The Spot
5.7 Cocksure

Got out for one quick Xmas Eve climb, preceded by a big ol' bushwhack right up to the far left of the crag because we walked right past the trailhead.

- avec Karla K
Sportive 13m Good
Nick Boldt
Lun 14 Déc 2020 - Land of Confusion
Scrappy Boulders Big Cube
V2 Major Payne Bloc Good
Ian
Lun 14 Déc 2020 - Land of Confusion
Scrappy Boulders Little Cube
V2 The House Plant Expert Bloc
Ian
V2 The Green House Expert Bloc
Ian
Lun 14 Déc 2020 - Land of Confusion
Mega Boulder
V2 Mr Freeze Bloc Good
Ian
Ven 11 Déc 2020 - Land of Confusion
Corn and Bung Corn
V4 Cornholio Bloc Good
Ian
Jeu 10 Déc 2020 - Land of Confusion
Corn and Bung Bung
V4 Milking the Cow Early Exit Bloc Very Good
Ian
V3 Taco Dish Bloc Very Good
Ian
Jeu 10 Déc 2020 - Land of Confusion
Corn and Bung Corn
V0 Jackpot Bloc Good
Ian
Mar 8 Déc 2020 - Polly's Cove
Polly's Cover Proper
V3 The Leaner Bloc Classic
Ian
V3 You Have a Wide Crack Bloc Very Good
Ian
V2 About Beef Bloc Very Good
Ian
V0 Addicted to Dirty Faces Bloc
Ian
V1 Poop Chute Bloc
Ian
Mar 8 Déc 2020 - Polly's Cove
Warm Up Area
V2 Pinch a Loaf Bloc Very Good
Ian
V0 Poultry Bloc
Ian
V0 Warm-up Crack Bloc
Ian
V0 Lower Crack Bloc
Ian
V0 Bomerang Bloc
Ian
V0 Lie Back Crack Bloc
Ian
V0 Baby Crack Bloc
Ian
V1 Shitbag Shorty Bloc
Ian
V0 The Banana Holder Bloc
Ian
Mar 8 Déc 2020 - Land of Confusion
Memorial Boulder & Memorial Wall Memorial Boulder
V3 The Cheese Jug Bloc Good
Ian
V3 111 Bloc 4m Classic
Ian
Mar 8 Déc 2020 - Land of Confusion
Scrappy Boulders Main Boulder
V3 A.W.P. Bloc Good
Ian
V3 Skwishy Tuna Bloc Very Good
Ian
Mar 8 Déc 2020 - Land of Confusion
Robotic Wall
V0 Heuco Dreams Bloc
Ian
V2 Sensory Feedback Bloc
Ian
Mar 8 Déc 2020 - Land of Confusion
Corn and Bung Bung
V2 Razer's Edge Bloc Very Good
Ian
Mar 8 Déc 2020 - Land of Confusion
Corn and Bung Corn
V3 The Whale's Back Bloc Very Good
Ian
Lun 7 Déc 2020 - Land of Confusion
Nouveau Riche
V3 La Vie En Rose Bloc Very Good
Ian
V2 When Bitter and Ugly Meet Bloc Good
Ian
Sam 5 Déc 2020 - Virginia Slab
5.9 Woolf of Wallstreet Sportive 16m, 7 Classic
Max S
Ven 4 Déc 2020 - Land of Confusion
Lake, Satellite & Cat Lake Boulder
V2 Body Drop Bloc 3m
Ian
V0 Lake Warm-up Bloc
Ian
Dim 15 Nov. 2020 - Eagle's Nest
Main Cliff
5.7 Boomin' System Sportive 10m, 3 Very Good
Cameron Bray
Ven 23 Oct. 2020 - Musquodoboit Valley Area
Railway Crag
5.7 Ghostwriter

OMG awesome climb. Great hands for getting introduced to trad climbing and if you're not great at climbing cracks, this route gives you layback, stemming, and face options too.

- avec Karla K
Sportive 18m, 7 Classic
Nick Boldt
5.7 5.7 G De-railed

#1. Took one take just before the roof crux, then went left across the horizontal crack and onto the face. Repeated the climb on TR to check out the more dynamic solution (to the right up the hand crack. Both fun options.

- avec Karla K
Trad 15m Good
Nick Boldt
Lun 19 Oct. 2020 - Sorrow's End
Sorrow's End Right
5.7 5.7 PG Dreamberry Wine

#1. Climbed on TR, plugging gear to mock-lead where I could: only 3 cams placed.

Not a fan of the runout start, but the climbing is great on TR.

- avec Lynette Reid, Karla K, Leigh M, Megan D
Trad 15m
Nick Boldt
5.7 Bienvenue Au Poulettier

#3. Fun route, decently protectable as a mock lead on TR, once you're two bolts in and have to start plugging cams. Tried a few things before I could protect the first horizontal crack -- an early cam placement attempt popped out and smacked me in the face when I yanked on it.

Didn't love that cam, but left it in until I got one tier higher, placed a better cam, then removed the lower one. Moral here is: get ready to be runout, but the climbing is easy. Could lead this next time around.

- avec Lynette Reid, Karla K, Leigh M, Megan D
Trad mixte 13m, 2
Nick Boldt
5.10b Float Like a Butterfly

#2. Didn't solve the top section crux - pulled on the bolt instead to get through the move. Later found out I'd missed a right hand pull, which would have made the difference.

- avec Lynette Reid, Karla K, Leigh M, Megan D
Sportive 4
Nick Boldt
Lun 19 Oct. 2020 - Sorrow's End
Sorrow's End Left
5.8 5.8 G See With Joy

#6. Didn't bother to explore trad placements here, since everyone said it's bomber and very easy to protect. Ran up it in 5 mins on TR. Would lead this on trad next time.

- avec Lynette Reid, Karla K, Leigh M, Megan D
Trad 13m
Nick Boldt
Lun 19 Oct. 2020 - Sorrow's End
Sorrow's End Right
5.8 5.8 G Recognition

#4. Safer start than Dreamberry Wine, but also includes a long runout layback section... so while the climb is awesome, I'd consider the pro PG unless you're good at jamming and placing gear. (I'm not there yet.)

- avec Lynette Reid, Karla K, Leigh M, Megan D
Trad 15m
Nick Boldt
5.10b All the Rage

#5. Challenging, and way more fun than Float Like a Butterfly. Tricky, technical, and crimpy on sharp bits. Good reminder of what I've forgotten due to (what feels like) a year of COVID and less than optimal training. Would not want to climb this on lead as the bottom is cruxy and the fall potential is strong. Great on TR though.

- avec Lynette Reid, Karla K, Leigh M, Megan D
Sportive 15m, 5
Nick Boldt
Mar 13 Oct. 2020 - Musquodoboit Valley Area
The Spot
5.8 The Old In-and-Out (aka Baiting Bambi)

#5. OK, so this route was awesome, even including the rusty bail biners at the top instead of rap rings, and the fact that I got my foot stuck in the crack near the anchor. 5/5, would climb again.

- avec Karla K
Sportive 20m, 6 Classic
Nick Boldt
5.8 Twinkle Toes

After much deliberation and whining, I finally got on this slab. (I hate slabs.) Stick clipped the first two bolts and thankfully so. The top half is nice for a slab. The bottom... not a fan. Good route, just not a fan of slabs.

- avec Karla K
Sportive 3 Good
Nick Boldt
5.7 While You Were Sexting

#1 of the day, and my second ever trad lead. Dumped like 4-5 cams and a single nut in there, then got a bit runout at the top. GREAT belay ledge for bringing up a second and then rapping back down. Karla's first trad clean in a while - got out the token nut w/o a tool.

- avec Karla K
Trad 14m Classic
Nick Boldt
5.10a Cat and Mouse

#3. First time doing this on lead, and it was everything I thought it would be from the last time on TR with Peter.

- avec Karla K
Sportive 11m, 6 Classic
Nick Boldt
5.8 Who Needs Viagra

#2. Ugh, still hate this route. Did it on TR and still couldn't land the opening move (tried to do it from below instead of from the left face). And then veered off into the 5.7 higher up. Not a fan. Karla crushed the opening move though, and stayed more true to the route.

- avec Karla K
Sportive 14m, 4 Average
Nick Boldt
Mar 13 Oct. 2020 - Musquodoboit Valley Area
Castle
5.8 Wizards of the Castle

#5. Deliberately went off course to check out the trad line to the left, Castle Breach. Need to come back and hit that with trad gear next time.

- avec Kathryn A
Sportive 14m, 5 Very Good
Nick Boldt
5.6 Murder Hole

#2. Went over to the murder hole for a second climb. Need to try climbing this some time without doing the traverse from the far right under the murder hole.

- avec Kathryn A
Sportive Good
Nick Boldt
5.7 Up the Beanstalk

#1. Ran up this and threw a TR on it so Kathryn could experience climbing again after a few years off.

- avec Kathryn A
Sportive 11m, 3 Good
Nick Boldt
5.8 Wizards of the Castle

#4. Kathryn liked this one best of the 3 she did, even doing a second lap.

- avec Kathryn A
Sportive 14m, 5 Very Good
Nick Boldt
5.10a Stoke-i-fy

#3. Some super helpful climbers offered to let me TR on their gear so I could try the beta they'd figured out (forget hand jamming the slot, throw a high heel onto the face). Bomber.

Thanks to Becca and Eric for the beta and the catch!

- avec Kathryn A
Sportive Very Good
Nick Boldt
Sam 10 Oct. 2020 - Musquodoboit Valley Area
Castle
5.9 Quantum Shopvac

#5, #6. After leading this, did a couple extra laps on TR to explore other lines. Also went half-way up the 5.11a to the left before jogging back to the safety of the TR 5.9

- avec Karla K
Sportive Very Good
Nick Boldt
5.7 Up the Beanstalk

#1, #2. easy warmup. Did a lap, then Karla led through the gear, then I went up again to clean and rap down.

- avec Karla K
Sportive 11m, 3 Very Good
Nick Boldt
5.10a Stoke-i-fy

#7. Finished the day here. Starts deceptively easy before the roof appears.

Could not pull the roof in one go, or two goes, or three goes. Hooray for hangdog. Eventually just batman'd up to cheap my way to the horn above the roof.

- avec Karla K
Sportive
Nick Boldt
5.8 Fee Fi Fo Fum

#3. easy and fun. Karla climbed on TR, then got her rappel on to be nice to the fixed gear. Woo!

- avec Karla K
Sportive Very Good
Nick Boldt
5.9 Quantum Shopvac

#4. Loads of fun. Wanted to also do Noble Cause but it was super wet. Did a couple of extra laps on TR to explore other lines... the face, the corner, the cheater-chimney.

Might have rested once or twice.

- avec Karla K
Sportive Very Good
Nick Boldt
Sam 26 Sept 2020 - Musquodoboit Valley Area
The Spot
5.7 5.7 G Everybody's Baby

#6: last route of the day.

Good for your first ever trad lead, since the climbing is uninteresting, so there's not much thinking required. Hands are good and the protection is decent (once you scrub out the dirty cracks) and you can faff about picking nuts and cams while standing on decent ledges. So it's low stress, but there's no real wow factor.

- avec Peter McV
Trad 17m Average
Nick Boldt
5.7 While You Were Sexting

#1 of the day: Peter put up this route, I cleaned, then we rapped down. Reminder that I need to practice top-belay more. Fun.

- avec Peter McV
Trad 14m Good
Nick Boldt
5.9 Phat Tuesday

#4 on the day.

If you pina coladas, and sketchy slab routes from hell... this started out scary (I suck at slabs), got worse (more like 5.10-?) and then became a mix of easy 5.7ish stuff and interesting 5.10ish moves. Nice and long overall, with great exposure, with a beautiful anchor station to top-belay and rap from.

100% worth the struggle, but wow, it was work to get through the first bit. This is rated a 5.9+ in the Rock Climbing Nova Scotia guidebook... and clearly the + is accurate when describing the crux(es) at the start.

We used a 70M rope to get back to the Whisky ledge, and then climbed down the gully.

Unclear if a 60M rope would have been enough.

- avec Peter McV
Sportive 50m, 12 Good
Nick Boldt
5.9 Teenage Burnout

#5 of the day. I was told to expect a scary traverse over the arete at the top to get to the rings but after the bottom part of Phat Tuesday, this was a walk in the park.

- avec Peter McV
Sportive 15m Very Good
Nick Boldt
5.10a Cat and Mouse

#3 route. Peter climbed though my gear on Who Needs Viagara to clean it (and to avoid the swinging mess that I made of the first couple moves), then moved the anchor over to Cat and Mouse, which I found super easy, barely an inconvenience. Did two TR laps. Should do it on lead, it's a really friendly route.

- avec Peter McV
Sportive 11m, 6 Very Good
Nick Boldt
5.8 Who Needs Viagra

#2 of the day: stick-clipped the first bolt (didn't read the guide book advice, just figured it looked unsafe). Good thing too, since I fell of it at least 3 times (yay for attentive belayers and soft catches!). Did finally solve the initial beta and worked though the rest. Might have rested part way up? Anyway good route, possibly more like a 5.9?

- avec Peter McV
Sportive 14m, 4 Very Good
Nick Boldt
Dim 20 Sept 2020 - Musquodoboit Valley Area
The Spot
5.6 Leave it to Beaver

Dirty crack at the start, but some great laybackin' crackin'.

Dumped a bunch of unnecessary trad gear in there for practice on the way up, since after the first 3 bolts it felt super duper safe.

- avec Karla K
Sportive 14m, 6 Very Good
Nick Boldt
5.6 Bye Bye Beep

Stick clipped the start because the first couple moves felt harder than they really were. Also plugged a bunch of cams and nuts in there just to play at a trad route. Other than the first 1-2 clips, the rest of the route would probably make for a great trad route.

- avec Karla K
Sportive 20m Very Good
Nick Boldt
Dim 13 Sept 2020 - Musquodoboit Valley Area
Castle
5.8 Fee Fi Fo Fum

Route #1 of the day. Fun warmup.

- avec Karla K
Sportive Very Good
Nick Boldt
5.8 Wizards of the Castle

#5. Fun end to the day.

- avec Karla K
Sportive 14m, 5 Very Good
Nick Boldt
5.6 Murder Hole

#4 of the day - ran into some climbers who explained that the anchors are titanium glue ins, rather than the usual bolt + ring anchor. Lots of room to run a rappel line, which I did. Karla then TR'd it (which I suppose isn't really ideal for the rope or the fixed gear).

- avec Karla K
Sportive Very Good
Nick Boldt
5.8 The Assassination of Blunderbore

Route #3 - lots of fun on this one.

- avec Karla K
Sportive Very Good
Nick Boldt
5.9 Smell the Blood

Route #2. Should have read the description more closely, to know it rambles to the left and joins the anchor at Declaration Of Stoke. Made for a wee bit of an adventure as a fellow climber was heading up that one at the same time but graciously let me top out and rap down before him. Wouldn't say I loved the route - not ideal to clean on rappel as there's a ton of swing potential on the way down.

- avec Karla K
Sportive Good
Nick Boldt
Mer 9 Sept 2020 - Musquodoboit Valley Area
Castle
5.6 Crocodile Tiers

Not what I expected for a warmup route, but turned out to be pretty fun. Great intro to quality NS granite and just how sticky all those tiny nubs can be. Also a great spot to practice rappel, since it's a slab. Note: to protect my belayer I threw a .5 or .75 cam in the wall to the right of the route, in case I came sliding down.

- avec Shazia Mazhar
Sportive 14m, 5 Very Good
Nick Boldt
5.7 Up the Beanstalk

Easy peasy. Way easier than Crocodile Tiers if you're used to jugs vs. grippy slabs. Shaz enjoyed this one too, and I got to do a second rappel practice that was much faster than the first.

- avec Shazia Mazhar
Sportive 11m, 3 Very Good
Nick Boldt
5.10a Slim Dusty

Guidebook told me not to bother but it was RIGHT THERE next to Up the Beanstalk, and it was an overhang crack climb. So... yeah, I had to try it. Stick clipped the first draw, and shoved a small TCU in the wall between the first and second draws partly for the gear placement practice (I'm learning trad, finally!) and partly because, well, I felt the route kinda wanted more protection. Hung on that for a bit, proving that it was a good placement. Anyway, parts of the route were perhaps just outside my pay grade, but did manage to finish it and the reward was snap clip anchors. Woo! Will likely do this one again.

- avec Shazia Mazhar
Sportive 11m, 3 Good
Nick Boldt
Mar 8 Sept 2020 - Sorrow's End
Sorrow's End Right
5.7 5.7 PG Dreamberry Wine Trad 15m
Sergey Komarov
Mar 8 Sept 2020 - Sorrow's End
Sorrow's End Left
5.12c Transformer Sportive 15m, 6
Sergey Komarov
Mar 8 Sept 2020 - Sorrow's End
Sorrow's End Right
5.10b All the Rage Sportive 15m, 5
Sergey Komarov
Mer 5 Août 2020 - Crystal Crescent
The Main Area Low Ball Wall
V4 Figure Four Thing Bloc 3m Very Good
Ian
Mer 5 Août 2020 - Crystal Crescent
IMAX Area
V1 Spread 'Em Bloc
Ian
V3 Twin Cracks Bloc
Ian
V0 LA Smoked Bloc
Ian
V1 LA Burn Bloc
Ian
V2 LA Crash Bloc
Ian
V2 Iron Cross Bloc
Ian
V1 Iron Lung Bloc
Ian

Affichage de 1 - 100 sur 358 ascensions.

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