Ascensions dans Nova Scotia comme Hang dog

This felt WAY harder than 5.9. Like WAY harder. I ended up tugging on draws in disbelief. The movement is very fun,and overall a quality slightly overhanging climb. Overhanging crimps up onto an intimidating slab. If you're a 5.9 leader this thing might punch you and steal all of your money. I almost want to suggest higher than 5.10a, as I found Jack and Stokify easier.

Fun! Tricky...

Felt easier than Woold At The Door. Maybe the moves themselves are a bit harder, but the climb seems much easier to read!

Fell once but can't remember where. Wow a lot of bolts! Super fun.

One high-step move that threw me for a loop.

Will led, I TR'd. Wasn't having a super effective day, but got through it fairly clean, I think. Can't recall if had to hang or not.

Wicked start. I tried going left once in the sloping ledge, which caused me to fall. The guidebook says you can go either left or right, I'd say going left is harder than 10a. After falling, I went to the right and the climbing was much easier! Top two VERY staggered rings, but has chains extending the anchor point. With a 240cm sling I was able to safely set up a TR anchor.

Went up thinking this was the 5.9 as it turns out this one is not in the guidebook. Fell once as i missed an extremely obvious, extremely bomber hold.

This is a 5.9, but don't be fooled it is not the same 5.9 as the route to the right of it, as I've now learned. Fun, but pumpy!

Fell once on the roof but figured out the beta pretty quickly. Stoked to get back out and send this.

Wacky route. Terrified of falling onto that knife-blade rock during the third bolt but its super secure. Fell during the slab section mid-way. Final move is hard in the sense that trusting your foot and committing takes some mental fortitude, which I'm still working on.

Damn that slab at the start. Fell while trying to reach to the right under the large boulder up top. View is amazing. Sebastian belayed from above with me cleaning as second.

#2 of 3. Interesting moves.

#6/6. Obviously tired, fell off a couple times. But got to the top, eventually. Felt strong, just ... inefficient.

#5. Better than last time but still spanked in the middle bits with the traverse & layback. Gotta work on better footwork for a more stable transition.

#1. Still not a fan of this route. Will led, taking stick clip with him to combat the wet and icy sections. Had to chip one of the anchor rings out of the ice. Fun times?

#3. Having patched my hand, I managed to climb this as the last of the day, but it was a struggle to move from the corner back to the face, following Will's beta. Did something uglier and stayed in the corner, failing with the busted hand.

#2. Will convinced me to lead this or TimeLine, so I did. Opted for the left line, Westward Migration. Was doing great until my left hand gave out and I slipped off, a couple moves from the top (due to shitty foot placement). Shredded the back of my left pinky finger, bled everywhere, took a breath, and finished the route. Could have gone better but the fall was clean (despite a "foot behind rope" issue).

#4 TR'd with Will leading and me cleaning or climbing thru gear. I forget the order we did stuff. This was definitely not clean, but fun.

#3. Will stick clipped the second bolt to make the sketchy start less sketchy; then plugged a purple cam in the runout section near the top. I found an alternate safer ending to the right, which probably joined the crack at the top of Cathy's Clown 5.10c for a safer/easier ending @ the rings.

Set up for rappel but then thought I could just top out and walk over to Romancing The Stone, which we then did as the last climb of the day.

#2. Will led, I flailed away on TR. Not a bad route.

#4. Will led, after stick clipping the first two. Needed a hang/reset part way up, and also messed up the beta on the wide traverse section near the top, but figured it out eventually. Not clean, but pretty decent all things considered.

#3. An attempt was made, including some TR cheating. Very challenging feet at the start, and super sharp fingers. Great view from the ledge, but otherwise not sure the wall's worth the time. Or perhaps it's just sandbagged?

#2. A struggle but enjoyable.

#4. Got to the top, but it wasn't pretty. At least I didn't have to jug the rope or cheat... just a lot of hangdogging to rest.

Really fun route, with a scary start... and then 3 different types of climbs above that.

#2. Great route; should come back and work this as a lead project, espcially since Will took the time to scrub it clean.

#3. Ran out of gas midway up and the top became a lot of huffing and puffing to finish. Would do again for sure.

#3. Needed a couple rests at the top to suss out the beta; next time would just push through.

#2. Needed a couple rests at the top to suss out the beta; next time would just push through.

#1. Stiff for a warmup, even on TR.

Would like to try this again on lead some time, as the moves are big and a bit scary but not impossible. One delicate traverse required careful fingering.

#2. Seconded. Scary traverse, as like last time. But past the scary bottom bits, it's a lovely climb above. Gaston'd the crack to get thru that section, where a layback might have also worked (Will's beta was very different). He plugged a couple cams, but guidebook says you only need one. Definitely needed a rest/take before figuring out the crack sequence.

#2 and #4.

Will put up the first pitch as the approach to get to Wave Rider, which we climbed as #3.

Better advice: climb the 5.7 and traverse right to the ledge, or even climb the bottom of Blueberry and link into Wave Rider.

First pitch was brutal with a lot of effort wasted trying to solve the crux start. Second pitch was friendlier but still burly. Not a fan of the bottom; might consider the second pitch again in future?

Hard start to the climb with a strong finish

#3. Not what I expected. Needed a take to sort out the "is it an undercling or a crimp?" midsection.

#2. The struggle is real. Cheated a bit, eventually got up there on TR.

#3. This was a workout.

#2. This was fun. A few more laps on TR and I'd consider leading this, now that I sorta know the beta.

#4. Will led, with pauses, and went far left into the bushes, using a tree stump at one point.

I then went up on his gear, and tried the right side of the overhang instead, which was a bit grovelling and felt ballsy... but great. Ultimately the beta is probably to just pull OVER the face, but hey. Will definitely do that one again.