Aide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Europe 559,295 routes in Region

Summary:
J
F
M
A.
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Saison

Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 45.582523, 73.107638

1.1. Albania 81 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 41.097320, 19.995283

description

1.1.1. Tirana 0 routes in Crag

1.1.2. Bovilla 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 41.447390, 19.894446

description

1.1.3. Brar 7 routes in Area

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 41.395136, 19.868816

description

sportclimbing in canyon. routes from 6b+ up

http://climbingalbania.com/climbing%20spot/brar/

1.1.4. Maja e Harapit 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 42.442472, 19.754390

description

1.1.5. Maja e Papingut 0 routes in Crag

description

1.1.6. Gjipe 62 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.128634, 19.673302

résumé

Limestone gorge at the sea with recent development. Great climbing, nice beach and sea. A perfect holiday spot.

description

Mostly good quality rock on both sides of the gorge which allows you to play with the sun and shade.

Topo: http://climbingalbania.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Gjipe_Topo.pdf

approche

The beach of Gjipe-gorge is between the villages of Vuno and Ilias. If you don't have a high clearance 4x4 it is better to park at the top and hike down to the beach and from there into the gorge.

où dormir

Accomodation in close-by Himare, camping in Jala or at the beach.

1.1.7. Lengarica 0 routes in Area

description

1.2. Andorra 407 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.545675, 1.577497

1.2.1. Sector Juberri 14 routes in Sector

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.440947, 1.494993

1.2.2. La Margineda 1 route in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.484359, 1.487101

1.2.3. Riu d'Enclar 21 routes in Area

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.495462, 1.492460

1.2.4. Solà d’Enclar 76 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.501584, 1.503035

description

1.2.5. Pilar Mingo 1 route in Area

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.503392, 1.506475

approche

S'hi pot accedir de 2 maneres:

1.Aparcar al cementiri de Santa Coloma i seguir el camí que porta a les vies d'escalada del Solà d'Enclar. Continuar fins passar el sector Santa Coloma fins arribar a una zona on el camí és força vertical i trencadís. Girar a esquerra sortint del camí just abans de trobar una cadena fixada a la roca. Seguir el camí no gaire marcat que puja per la vall. *Caminar 50 metres. Hi han algunes marques vermelles que indiquen el camí. La paret del pilar Mingo és a la dreta. La primera reunió és veu des del camí de pujada. La via amb les seves variants són una mica més a baix.

2.Caminar fins al final del camí del Rec del Solà. Seguir caminant pel camí que porta a les vies d'escalada del Solà d'Enclar. Un cop passada una cadena fixada a una gran roca (aquesta cadena és l'última) girar a la dreta i pujar pel camí trencadís. Llavors seguir les mateixes indicacions que les de l'altra aproximació a partit de *.

1.2.6. Piràmide 37 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.505363, 1.504916

1.2.7. Llastra de l’Obac 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.502450, 1.522706

1.2.8. Sant Antoni de la Grella 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.528052, 1.520605

1.2.9. Roc dels Palinquerons 0 routes in Sector

description

Quatre o cinc vies per a nens

1.2.10. Reno 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.560447, 1.504753

1.2.11. Roc de la Coma 13 routes in Sector

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.562192, 1.493250

1.2.12. La Perla del Bosc / Erts 0 routes in Sector

1.2.13. Encodina 13 routes in Sector

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.624643, 1.523481

1.2.14. Creusans 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.633440, 1.477276

1.2.15. Arcalís 1 route in Crag

Summary:
Tous Alpinisme

Lat / Long: 42.623661, 1.485928

1.2.16. Roc de la Guilla 33 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.514297, 1.559030

1.2.17. Agulles d’Engolasters 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.515911, 1.573308

1.2.18. Fissuròmetre 9 routes in Sector

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.517828, 1.578849

1.2.19. Boulder de Coll Jovell 41 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.510377, 1.569162

1.2.20. El Carcamanyà 9 routes in Sector

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.523527, 1.563244

1.2.21. Prohibit 20 routes in Sector

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.527931, 1.564317

1.2.22. Oral 12 routes in Sector

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.527991, 1.567211

1.2.23. Vall de les Agols 2 routes in Area

Summary:
Tous Alpinisme

Lat / Long: 42.502541, 1.602785

1.2.24. Meritxell 0 routes in Sector

1.2.25. Riu Urina 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.559263, 1.583917

1.2.26. Roc dels Coms 18 routes in Sector

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.622356, 1.637263

description

Sector d'alta muntanya

approche

30 minuts fins al refugi dels Coms de Jan i 30 minuts més fins a peu de vies

1.2.27. Juclar 15 routes in Area

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.607602, 1.722635

1.2.28. Pic de Ríbuls 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Alpinisme

Lat / Long: 42.509891, 1.674486

1.2.29. Pic de l'Esquella 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Alpinisme

Lat / Long: 42.519411, 1.744037

1.3. Austria 23,264 routes in Region

Accès: Aktuelle Covid-19 Regeln & Klettern

Trotz der strengen Ausgangsbeschränkungen ist Klettern in Österreich weiterhin erlaubt, wenn auch mit gewissen Einschränkungen.

Details dazu findet ihr hier: https://kletterblock.de/de_DE/2020/11/kletter-und-freizeitbeschraenkungen-wegen-covid-19-in-oesterreich-aenderungen-am-15-november/

Détails de l'alerte et commentaires

A créé il y a 9 semaines
Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.625839, 13.314252

résumé

Endless crags in the Eastern alps and the foothills of the alps offer climbing for everyone in every season.

description

Crags and areas are listed and managed according to the Alpine Club classification of the Eastern Alps (see also: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alpine_Club_classification_of_the_Eastern_Alps).

A map of areas can also be found here: http://www.bergalbum.de/uebersichtskarte_ostalpen.htm

1.3.1. West 10,179 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.172015, 11.139309

résumé

Western Austria represents the 2 provinces Tyrol and Vorarlberg, a very mountainous region with endless climbing possibilities and excellent infrastructure.

description

A substantial part of the Eastern Alps is located in Vorarlberg and Tyrol. From a climbers perspective it is probably hard to find an area with more variety and options on such a small area. World class bouldering areas can be found next to world class sport climbing areas, multi-pitch climbs line alpine peaks and cliffs and there is everything, from family friendly and easy climbing to lines at the top of the grade range.

With Innsbruck as its biggest town and climbing mecca Western Austria is a must visit for every climber.

Topos and climbing information for some areas in Tyrol can also be found here: at http://www.climbers-paradise.com

1.3.2. Mitte-Nord 3,812 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 48.034609, 13.707346

1.3.3. Mitte-Süd 2,049 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 46.920218, 13.450370

1.3.4. Ost 7,224 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.784049, 15.538761

description

A lot of climbing is happening in and around Vienna. Within a 2 hours radius you will find mostly limestone crags (some gneiss also can be found in the danube region of Wachau) offering everything from slabs to overhangs, short to long climbs, remote to busy crags, single to multi pitch and so on...

Main crags are Peilstein, Hohe Wand, Höllental and many many more...

Information Sources / Topo Guides:

If the weather is bad Vienna offers a lot of indoor climbing possibilities (just google for climbing gym vienna...) - currently around 10 major climbing gyms exist in and around the city.

1.4. Belarus 0 routes in Region

1.4.1. Minsk 0 routes in Crag

1.4.2. Скалодром "Вершина" 0 routes in Gym

description

1.4.3. Скалодром 0 routes in Gym

description

1.4.4. RCTKUM 0 routes in Gym

1.4.5. Skalodrom Trapeciya 0 routes in Gym

description

1.4.6. Vitebsk Climbing 0 routes in Gym

description

1.4.7. Byk 0 routes in Gym

description

1.4.8. Спортзал школы 23 0 routes in Gym

1.4.9. Plato 0 routes in Gym

description

300 square meters of bouldering wall, MoonBoard,comfortable warm-up area with all needed equipment, locker rooms with showers, comfortable resting area. Dog-friendly

https://plato.by/

approche

Адрес:

Минск, ул. Куйбышева 22 Вход через 6 корпус

1.5. Belgium 5,691 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 50.516063, 4.449482

1.5.1. Wallonie picarde & Namur 2,917 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 50.298406, 4.283331

1.5.2. Liège 2,076 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 50.485413, 5.662153

1.5.3. Luxembourg 600 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 49.979531, 5.477518

1.5.4. Brabant & Brussel 50 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Bloc

Lat / Long: 50.789950, 4.540119

1.5.5. Vlaanderen 48 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Moulinette

Lat / Long: 51.098980, 4.198856

1.6. Bosnia and Herzegovina 1,020 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 43.846063, 17.677008

description

Climbing is slowly recovering in this country. Halted for about a decade by the war, a new generation of climbers has been opening crags and bolting routes.

This resulted in the publication of the magnificent guidebook which is not only a great guide to all crags in the country, but also a wonderful tourist guide.

1.6.1. Krajina 392 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 44.539039, 16.794331

1.6.2. Central Bosnia 82 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 44.155416, 17.993611

1.6.3. Sarajevo & Eastern Bosnia 214 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 43.758989, 18.718511

1.6.4. Herzegovina 332 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 43.520136, 17.811630

1.7. Bulgaria 5,073 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 42.721696, 25.087012

description

Bulgaria is a country in South East Europe, with an area of 111,000 sq km, which offers climbing areas of all types:

  • bouldering,
  • sport climbing
  • traditional (up to 200 meter routes)
  • ice climbing (only in winter)
  • DWS.

Map of climbing areas (in Bulgarian) : http://www.climbingguidebg.com/cdb.php?smap=1 (also some topos)

Some area descriptions: http://climbing-in-bulgaria.blogspot.de/

1.7.1. Sofia 157 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.852085, 23.164837

description

The capital and largest city of Bulgaria. At least five indoor climbing spots within the city as well as rock climbing/ boulder spots at the outskirts of the city towards Vitosha Mountain.

où dormir

Plenty of hotels, hostels, as well as coach-surfing opportunities.

1.7.2. Vratsa 494 routes in Area

Summary:
Style inconnu, Escalade sportive et other styles

Lat / Long: 43.176814, 23.566196

description

Huge bolted multi-pitches and single pitch sport climbing in caves and on slabs.

Limitations de l'accès

où dormir

Camp at the grassy areas on the right and left as you drive up through the gorge. Water is available at a spring on the left camp area.

1.7.3. Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave 86 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 43.175845, 24.073765

résumé

Big cave with two entrances, that has two big holes in it known as "God's eyes".

description

Big cave with many routes, bolting is safe but sparse, the cave goes up to 40m and there are a few climbs that go through the eyes. There is climbing for everyone from 4s to 9s. The cave is a fun playground, but could be intimidating if you are a beginner.

If you are coming here bring knee pads for the harder routes.

The cave seeps so wait a few days if you are to climb here after it has rained.

Limitations de l'accès

To ensure the safety of everyone, when climbing during the weekends, climbers are urged to avoid the sectors that are close to the path, namely: Pop folk (East entrance - left side), Nepobedim (Middle part - right side), Kak shte gi stignem (Middle part - left side) , and El Choro (West entrance - left side). Instead use the sectors: Hip Hop (East entrance - right side), Black Metal (Entrance part - right side), North (Entrance part - right side) - without the section with "Pchelichkata Maya", and Podaruk(outside the cave).

approche

One of the easiest approaches ever, put the GPS coordinates and park at the east entrance of the crag.

(43.17479, 24.07461)

https://youtu.be/W_L5SaYFGzQ

où dormir

Camping at the entrance to the cave on the rolling green hills. There are a couple of shepards who move their animals through the area. They are nice and it is normal to offer them a gift or some Rakija (alcoholic spirits) and they will often give you some of their homemade cheese or milk. There is also a nearby alpine hut or you can stay in a guest house in Karlukovo.

Make sure to bring water and food with you at the crag. There are no toilets so clean up after yourselves.

éthique

Keep a low profile. Don't camp in the cave. Don't light fires in the cave, avoid climbing in the cave on weekends. No climbing between 6pm and 7am so you do not disturb the birds and local wild life. Do not bolt or draw on the rocks.

1.7.4. Kamen bryag 95 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Psicobloc

Lat / Long: 43.474541, 28.570969

description

Deep Water Solo spot at the Black Sea, North East side of Bulgaria. Climbing season is usually from June to September, depending on temperatures. Typical water temperatures in summer are 25 °C in August. Warning! There have been several fatal accidents in the region, due to the nature of DWS as well as the characteristic of many problems.

Limitations de l'accès

Intercity buses or by car. Approximate travel time from major cities by car: Sofia - 7 hours, Veliko Tarnovo - 4 hours, Varna - 1 hour.

où dormir

Small hotels, camping sites. Many spend the night in the open, tenting freely in the many open spaces (not permitted, but still vastly common).

1.7.5. Veliko Tarnovo 226 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 43.088783, 25.615145

1.7.6. Sliven 140 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle et Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.692236, 26.321563

1.7.7. Varna 66 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 43.093491, 27.590857

1.7.8. Tshudnite Skali 1 route in Area

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.966372, 27.294044

résumé

Sport climbing area

description

National Park area

approche

On Foot 5 min from parking

où dormir

Tents can be put up

éthique

Dont leave trash

historique

I belive it was installed by a local clibing club from Varna

1.7.9. Dryanovo 89 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et Style inconnu

Lat / Long: 42.948932, 25.434312

description

1.7.10. Lovech 128 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 43.187491, 24.715058

1.7.11. Pleven 52 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 43.396964, 24.624963

1.7.12. Teteven 46 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.894659, 24.279189

1.7.13. Koprivshitsa 79 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 42.565743, 24.347947

résumé

Beautiful crag with sharp rock, that doesn't get much traffic. This is where bouldering in Bulgaria started. Prepare to get your hands shreded.

description

A very whimsical crag that has much potential for first ascents, the boulders are situated in a forest. The perfect time to climb is either winter or autumn. The weather during the summer is too hot and too unpredictable in spring. Due to the nature of the rock a person can only climb here for a day. There are stray dogs and cats so make sure to bring food for them.

Limitations de l'accès

The crag is accessible to everyone all year round.

approche

It might be a bit difficult to find the boulders.

(42.566420, 24.347580)

https://youtu.be/gtK2oBPfNdg

où dormir

There are many options where to stay. Next to the boulder field there are picnic benches, established fire pits and even a little shelter. You can camp in the area or alternatively you can find a room to rent in Strelcha or Koprivshtitsa. We recommend checking out the hot mineral springs in the Strelcha area.

éthique

Steel brushes are allowed to clean up the boulders from the vegetation, can also use finer brushes to brush off the holds. Make sure to clean chalk marks after yourselves and pick up your rubbish. Chiseling the boulders, artificially making holds, digging landings or putting any glue ons or other equipment that can be used for high ball bouldering is not allowed.

historique

This location was first discovered in the 1980s by Ivan Maslarov and the first 15 boulder routes were developed. In 1998 the official development of the crag has begun.

1.7.14. Smolyan 10 routes in Area

Summary:
Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 41.616647, 24.602172

1.7.15. Belogradtschik 1,107 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 43.575268, 22.708278

1.7.16. Bozhenitsa 171 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive et Bloc

Lat / Long: 42.992524, 23.828925

1.7.17. Gabrovo - Sevlievo 36 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et Style inconnu

Lat / Long: 42.946170, 25.251034

1.7.18. Karlovo 15 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

1.7.19. Lakatnik 477 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 43.091796, 23.379615

1.7.20. Mostovo - mahala Ryakata 19 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

1.7.21. Pirin 69 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et Alpinisme

Lat / Long: 41.547044, 21.749381

1.7.22. Plovdiv 128 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et Style inconnu

Lat / Long: 42.038074, 24.754487

1.7.23. Rila 830 routes in Region

Summary:
Bloc, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 42.167980, 23.561689

1.7.24. Ruse 171 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 43.668712, 25.965837

1.7.25. Shumen 27 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 43.262237, 26.949068

1.7.26. Sredna Stara planina 73 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 42.742624, 24.761287

1.7.27. Tran 77 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 42.830727, 22.664262

1.7.28. Vitosha 204 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 42.572227, 23.242678

1.8. Croatia 3,244 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 44.445535, 16.431620

description

Guidebooks:

  1. Croatia 2019 - ČUJIČ, Boris, 2019: Croatia: Climbing Guide. 8th edition, Astroida, p. 624.

  2. Adriatic Coast 2017 - Adriatic Coast: Italia - Slovenija - Croatia. Sidarta, 400 p. ISBN 9789616027816

1.8.1. Istra 1,212 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 45.152934, 13.847881

description

Guidebooks:

Croatia 2019 - ČUJIČ, Boris, 2019: Croatia: Climbing Guide. 8th edition, Astroida, p. 624.

Adriatic Coast 2017 - Adriatic Coast: Italia - Slovenija - Croatia. Sidarta, 400 p. ISBN 9789616027816

1.8.2. Kvarnerski zaljev i Lika 507 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 44.844633, 14.910616

1.8.3. Dalmacija 1,447 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 43.427937, 16.560594

résumé

Dalmatia is a narrow stripe of Croatia located at the east shore of the Adriatic Sea, stretching from the island of Rab in the north to the Bay of Kotor in the south with Split as major city.

description

All of Dalmatia offers great climbing and also deep water soloing along the coast and on the islands. Split is a major hub for climbing but anywhere in Dalmatia the next climbing spot is not far.

1.8.4. Sjeverna Hrvatska 78 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 45.768590, 16.030613

1.9. Czechia 78,038 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 49.738643, 15.330933

description

Guides, routes and topos:

  1. Český horolezecký svaz - Czech Mountaineering Association: Database of routes, locations and map (czech).

  2. Skalní oblasti ČR: Route database and information about current moisture conditions and restrictions (czech).

  3. Lezec.cz - Czechclimbing.com: Climbing guides with topos, ascents (czech).

  4. Javaanes.cz- Crags in Moravia, climbing guides, topos (czech, ).

  5. Euroclimbing.com: Topos and some climbing guides (czech).

  6. Goat.cz: Topos and some climbing guides (mostly) in Moravia and Silesia (czech).

Information about climbing:

  1. Czechclimbing.com: Information about climbing in Czech Republic ().

  2. Euroclimbing.com: Information about climbing, equipement and new routes (czech).

  3. Horydoly.cz: Information about climbing and other outdoor activities (czech, , )

  4. Horyinfo.cz: Information about climbing, equipement and new routes (czech, , , ).

Maps:

  1. Skalní oblasti ČR: Moisture conditions map, Crags and climbing areas map, Climbing restrictions map.

  2. Horydoly.cz: Crags, huts, indoor climbing, tourist information map.

  3. Javaanes.cz: Crags and boulder fields map (Moravia and Silesia mostly).

  4. Horezdrar.cz: Crags and climbing areas map.

  5. Geoscience map - Czech Geological Survey: Geological informations and maps.

1.9.1. Praha 444 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et other styles

Lat / Long: 50.068869, 14.469194

description

1.9.2. Střední Čechy 4,254 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et other styles

Lat / Long: 49.951861, 14.546832

description

1.9.3. Jižní Čechy 1,614 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et other styles

Lat / Long: 49.100303, 14.415709

description

1.9.4. Západní Čechy 5,488 routes in Region

Summary:
Bloc, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 49.621537, 13.224724

1.9.5. Severozápadní Čechy 27,971 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 50.384102, 13.395978

1.9.6. Severní Čechy 17,943 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 50.650445, 14.989247

1.9.7. Východní Čechy 13,692 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 50.163230, 15.990327

1.9.8. Českomoravská vrchovina 1,438 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 49.499993, 15.696443

description

1.9.9. Jižní Morava 2,310 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 49.138164, 16.473086

description

South Moravian Region

Guidebook - 2019 - SKÝPALA, Vladimír a WOLF, Vladimír a kol. Moravské skály III. Jižní Morava. 2019. 272 s. (czech)

1.9.10. Moravské pískovce 879 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 49.139295, 17.613272

description

Guidebook - 2018 - SKÝPALA, Vladimír a WOLF, Vladimír a kol. Moravské skály I. Východní Morava. 2018. 190 s. (czech)

1.9.11. Severní Morava a Slezsko 2,005 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et other styles

Lat / Long: 49.883312, 17.738166

description

Moravian-Silesian Region - Wikipedia

Guidebook - 2018 - SKÝPALA, Vladimír a WOLF, Vladimír a kol. Moravské skály II. Severní Morava a Slezsko. 2018. 216 s. (czech)

1.10. Denmark 498 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et other styles

Lat / Long: 56.084728, 10.708741

1.10.1. Copenhagen 0 routes in Region

1.10.2. Sjælland 13 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 55.344993, 11.804679

1.10.3. Fyn 0 routes in Region

1.10.4. Swings and Roundabouts 0 routes in Boulder

description

Newly found boulder outside of Kolding

approche

Right next to the roundabout, on a field.

1.10.5. Jyllan 0 routes in Region

1.10.6. Bornholm 485 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et other styles

Lat / Long: 55.176303, 14.952013

1.11. Estonia 1 route in Region

Summary:
Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 58.707130, 24.878931

résumé

description

1.11.1. Tallinn 1 route in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 59.460283, 25.137612

1.12. Finland 2,189 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Bloc

Lat / Long: 60.993410, 24.190475

1.12.1. Åland 492 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Bloc

Lat / Long: 60.226394, 20.105735

description

Åland is one of the most popular bouldering destinations of Finland. Excellent boulders in stunning landscape and lots of potential for further development.

approche

Ferrys from Stockholm, Helsinki or Tallin. Flights to Mariehamn. Most bouldering sites are in the north of Åland around Geta.

où dormir

There are various campsites on the island, but probably the best is to rent a timber hut. To stay in walking distance to the boulders take one in Soltuna.

1.12.2. Jyväskylä 24 routes in Crag

Summary:
Bloc et Style inconnu

Lat / Long: 62.250136, 25.756549

1.12.3. Turku 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalade sportive et Style inconnu

Lat / Long: 60.463962, 22.236516

1.12.4. Lappi (Lapland) 0 routes in Crag

1.12.5. Tampere 28 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Style inconnu

Lat / Long: 61.506109, 23.781670

1.12.6. Olhava 74 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade artificielle et other styles

Lat / Long: 61.185957, 26.839213

résumé

Best trad crag in Finland?

1.12.7. Salo 38 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et Style inconnu

Lat / Long: 60.414226, 22.987787

1.12.8. Askola 1 route in Crag

Summary:
Tous Style inconnu

1.12.9. Lammi 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 61.052646, 25.006131

résumé

Both technical and pumpy sport mid grade sport climbing on good quality rock. Unfortunately close to the road, and can be rather noisy.

description

1.12.10. Punkaharju 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Psicobloc

Lat / Long: 61.634840, 29.132411

résumé

A steep DWS venue but you'll be rewarded with your private sauna.

description

Some of the most difficult DWS routes in Finland. Long approach but worth it. A barge with a sauna was installed in 2020 and will hopefully still be there when you visit (bring your own wood!).

approche

Long and potentially difficult. Follow the blue path marked on trees. It's best to approach from the West or by boat. Take care!

1.12.11. Karkaus 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 61.384769, 27.292939

1.12.12. Uusimaa 1,466 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Bloc

Lat / Long: 60.317961, 24.993093

1.13. France 80,868 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 46.205053, 1.485338

résumé

Croissants, seas of sandstone boulders and scenic limestone sport crags.

description

France is a highly sought-after destination for climbing, and for good reasons. From classic sport crags to scenic multi-pitch adventures just above the water or 4,000m up an alpine peak, there’s a something for everyone here, all year round. And then, there’s the unforgettable food!

As a rule of thumb, the quality of climbing gets better and better as you go South, with some notable exceptions.

For bouldering (‘bloc’). About an hour away from Paris, Fontainebleau is a world-class bouldering area with more than 30,000 sandstone boulder problems. To the West, in the Bretagne region, you’ll find granite boulders right by the beach, such as in Pen-Hir and Kerlouan. In the South, check out Targassone, Annot, Ailefroide and many more.

For sport climbing (’escalade sportive’), there’s no shortage of world-class crags. Start with the classic areas such as Le Saussois, Les Calanques, Le Verdon, Buoux, Volx, Chateauvert, Orpierre, Mouries… and then head to the more ‘futuristic’ falaises such as Ceuse, Les Gorges du Tarn, Saint-Léger du Ventoux, Orgon, Les Gorges du Loup... the list goes on.

For trad climbing (‘escalade en terrain d’aventure’), head to Annot, le Vercors, but also Les Gorges du Verdon or even Ceuse.

Deep water soloing is also worth a mention with Les Calanques, La Ciotat, Les Gorges du Tarn, Les Gorges du Verdon and La Piade being hot spots in the summer months. Watch for tourists when jumping off!

Last but not least, climbing is also well developed in French islands such as Corsica, la Guadeloupe (Caribbeans) and l’Ile de la Reunion (Indian Ocean).

Bonne grimpe!

===

A few useful words:

  • Hi! | Salut!
  • Thank you | Merci
  • Please | S'il vous plait
  • Can you help me? | Pouvez vous m'aider?
  • One beer please! | Une biere patron!
  • Climbing | Escalade
  • To belay | Assurer
  • I'm looking for a belayer | Est-ce que quelqu'un peut m'assurer?
  • Where is the climbing area? | Ou se trouve le secteur d'escalade?

Limitations de l'accès

As of 2020, some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

éthique

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

Check https://www.gouvernement.fr/en/coronavirus-covid-19 for COVID-19 restrictions currently in place.

1.13.1. Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes 12,066 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 45.509479, 4.553165

1.13.2. Bourgogne-Franche-Comté 3,076 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.228765, 4.803323

1.13.3. Bretagne / Brittany 1,060 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 48.225061, -3.128241

1.13.4. Centre-Val de Loire 77 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.482344, 1.689950

1.13.5. Corse 2,479 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Style inconnu et other styles

Lat / Long: 42.213950, 9.013148

description

Topo : Falaises de Corse, Maurin et Souchard, 2018. 406 pages. 35€

http://escalade.corse.topo.free.fr

1.13.6. Grand-Est 3,937 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 48.787361, 5.812274

1.13.7. Hauts-de-France 493 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 50.058263, 2.564923

1.13.8. Île-de-France 27,948 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Bloc

Lat / Long: 48.676822, 2.535735

1.13.9. Normandie 503 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 48.951126, 0.221497

1.13.10. Nouvelle-Aquitaine 1,173 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 44.960847, -0.689006

1.13.11. Occitanie 7,848 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 43.675368, 2.192982

1.13.12. Pays-de-la-Loire 385 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.313812, -1.525966

1.13.13. Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur 19,823 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 44.044426, 5.969330

1.13.14. Overseas France (links) 0 routes in Region

description

'Guadeloupe'[11748451], 'Guyane'[11738923], 'Martinique'[11748499], 'Mayotte'[754647468], 'Nouvelle-Calédonie'[323241615], 'La Réunion'[754647516]

1.14. Germany 86,406 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 32.465477, 8.015348

résumé

Beautiful landscapes, safe travelling and a lot of culture to enjoy.

description

Germany is a country in west-central Europe, that stretches from the Alps, across the North European Plain to the North Sea and the Baltic Sea.

Elevation ranges from the mountains of the Alps (highest point: the Zugspitze at 2,962 metres (9,718 ft)) in the south to the shores of the North Sea (Nordsee) in the northwest and the Baltic Sea (Ostsee) in the northeast. Between lie the forested uplands of central Germany and the low-lying lands of northern Germany (lowest point: Neuendorf-Sachsenbande at 3.54 metres (11.6 ft) below sea level), traversed by some of Europe's major rivers such as the Rhine, Danube and Elbe.

Other databases:

Limitations de l'accès

Covid 19: Please note that each federal state has its own rules about Covid 19!

1.14.1. Norddeutschland 111 routes in Region

Summary:
Bloc, Style inconnu et other styles

Lat / Long: 53.569007, 10.302442

1.14.2. Mitteldeutschland 2,121 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 51.603784, 12.143752

description

Not blessed with too much natural rock formations, Germany's Central East still offers some hidden gems like stunning aretes in shutdown quarries or deep-water-soloing over crystal-clear water. Check out the guidebook (in German) "Rotgelbes Felsenland" by Gerald Krug (www.geoquest-verlag.de)

1.14.3. Berlin + Brandenburg 1,300 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 52.442173, 13.567948

description

Despite the complete absence of natural rock formations, Berlin still offers some remedies for the vertically-addicted: artificial climbing walls, gyms, chiselled bunkers and semi-legal buildering. With more than 100 places to climb, you should be able to get pumped.

A nice overview of all locations can be found at http://www.klettern-in-berlin.de (in German).

An excellent guidebook is "Dickes B": http://www.geoquest-verlag.de/?q=node/77

1.14.4. Oberlausitz 775 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 51.123489, 14.524459

description

small crags or cliffs of Eastern Saxony

1.14.5. Zittauer Gebirge 1,742 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 50.845048, 14.745940

description

online route database: http://fizig.de/

1.14.6. Sächsische Schweiz 19,736 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 50.908129, 14.102748

résumé

THE birthplace of free climbing: A lifetime of climbing with stout ethics among stunning sandstone towers - not for the faint hearted.

http://de.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elbsandsteingebirge

description

The Elbe Sandstone Mountains with their German part (Sächsische Schweiz = Saxon Switzerland) and the Czech counterpart (České Švýcarsko - Czech Switzerland) have long been a epicenter of climbing development (see History).

Today, luckily, the masses avoid the area mainly because of its grim reputation and stout ethics (see ethics), which require solid climbing skills, some modesty or someone giving advise on the route - even better, all of these. However, with roughly 1100 free standing rock formations and about 20000 routes to climb, this area is a must for the adventurous climber. Late spring till early autumn is the best time for climbing, although the enthusiast may also enjoy south faces on sunny winter days. These will be too hot in summer, but shady faces can always be found.

The standard guidebook is the 6-volume "Kletterführer Sächsische Schweiz" by Heinicke. Route descriptions in compacted German only. The alternative "Kompakt-Kletterführer Sächsische Schweiz" uses a cryptic sign language which is non-language specific. The "Topoführer Sächsische Schweiz" has only limited coverage, but lots of topos. The newest addition is the „Elbsandstein Plaisir – Kletterführer“ by Panico. This guidebook caters to beginners and visitors, with maps, topos and comments on the various climbs. But it only includes a very limited amount of routes.

If you don't have a local friend that can tell you if that VIIa is really VIIa or actually feels like VIIIb with ground fall potential, check http://www.teufelsturm.de with a huge route database and invaluable comments on many routes (in German, but with straightforward icons) or visit https://elllocesaqui.wordpress.com/ for a good overview in english, specifically designed for visitors.

Other helpful websites are listed below. Most are in german, but they still provide a good overview for first time visitors. Especially helpful are the following websites, which recoomend nice, easy and beginner-friendly routes.

http://www.on-sight.de/gebiete/index.html?elbsandlist.html

http://www.wuestner.de/klettern_list.php?type=einf

http://www.reinoehl.de/landschaft/schweiz/klettern1_1.htm

http://www.rissanstiegsfreunde.de/site/Vorstiegsempfehlung.php

http://db-sandsteinklettern.gipfelbuch.de/gebiet.php?gebietid=19

Or watch this helpful video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jd3Gx9FzOA

Further informations: (only in german) http://www.nationalpark-saechsische-schweiz.de/besucherinformation/klettern/ https://www.bergzeit.de/magazin/klettern-saechsische-schweiz/ http://www.allgaeu-plaisir.de/klettern-im-elbsandstein-gebirge/

Limitations de l'accès

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

approche

The area is best reached from Dresden by commuter trains running every half an hour from Dresden (30 - 45 min). Depending on your destination, you can then continue by foot or use buses for the more remote areas, for which a car might be more convenient when you plan to return in the late hours. The more frequented areas are better avoided by car at the weekends, as lots of hikers can occupy the little parking the is. There are not many real roadside crags - be prepared to walk from 15 min (e.g. Falkenstein) up to 2 h (Hinterer Zschand).

où dormir

Being a popular tourist destination, many villages boast boarding houses and smaller hotels. The Sächsische Bergsteigerbund, a subdivision of the German Alpine Club, maintains two huts (Ottomühle and Saupsdorf) which generally require reservation (discounts on membership). Camping may be permitted at the alpine huts (charged) or on the camping ground in the Kirnitzschtal (NW of Bad Schandau). Traditionally, climbers used to bivouac at the walls under overhangs (Boofe ['boa-feh]). This is still tolerated in designated places (Freiübernachtungsstelle) There are 54 of these Boofen (https://www.wandern-saechsische-schweiz.de/wordpress/boofenliste/) Tread extremely lightly, as anything else endangers this compromise: no fires, no littering, dig a hole. Every summer the discussion about closing these bivouac sites rises again, so PLEASE sleep exclusively in the designated places and Leave No Trace.

éthique

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

historique

The Elbe Sandstone Mountains are probably the birthplace of modern freeclimbing and certainly one of the most historic climbing areas you can find. Not counting the Bronze-age settlement on Pfaffenstein nor the occassional remains of castles of robber-knight on some summits, climbing here dates back to the mid 19th century.

In 1864, gymnasts from Bad Schandau ascended the Falkenstein. While their style (using ladders, thrown ropes and pick-axes) saw a few imitators, it soon became clear that what we today call "free-climbing" is the way to go. Oskar Schuster and Rudolf Fehrmann were among the driving forces to formulate the Saxonian climbing rules, as they still stand today (see ethics): no climbing onto anything "a cow could ascend" (ie only true summits), no progress on artificial holds, placing bolts only as the last resort. This visionary abstinence, born from a mixture of elitarism, boldness and an eye for conservation issues alike, helped to form a climbing standard that was unrivalled in the world for decades until the 1970ies. Milestones like Spannagelturm Perrykante (VIIb) by Oliver Perry-Smith (1906), Wilder Kopf Westkante (VIIIa) by Emanuel Strubich (1918), Frienstein Königshangel IXa by Fritz Eske (1965) and Amselspitze Schallmauer Xa (Bernd Arnold) are still testpieces for modern climbers - especially when you would climb with the equipment of the respective era.

Saxonian climbers like Fehrmann and Strubich also left their footprints in Alps. In the 1930ies, Fritz Wiessner brought Saxonian ethics to the USA, where it evolved to modern freeclimbing and finally spread over the world.

The two World Wars took their toll among climbers - but also the crags - a great part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains became part of Chechoslovakia, which made climbing trips for climbers crossing the border a little more complicated. During the Socialist era, free traveling to western countries was banned. Arguably, this may also have contributed to the rise of climbing difficulties: climbers like Karl-Heinz Gonda, Bernd Arnold, Mathias Gäbler and Manfred Vogel established benchmarks of their time. However, in the recent decades the strict gound-up ethic made the creation of climbs at the top end of the scale increasingly difficult if not impossible. Already, some first ascenders have been suspected to bend the rules; and debated routes have even been removed. Every few years, the controversy between traditionalist (defending the status quo) and reformers (wishing to allow climbing on currently forbidden walls and rappel-bolting) boils up again. So far, the tradition stood its ground, supported by the National Park administration, who also favours restrictive climbing rules.

Whatever the future may bring, with roughly 20000 routes there is a lifetime of climbing - and despite being considered "outclimbed" for first ascents long ago, some enthusiast still add some hundred routes each year.

1.14.7. Sächsisches Hügelland 2,552 routes in Region

Summary:
Bloc, Escalade sportive et other styles

Lat / Long: 51.115897, 13.401742

1.14.8. Erzgebirge 1,459 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 50.666559, 13.079185

description

historique

1.14.9. Vogtland 1,180 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 50.687813, 12.129297

résumé

Für das Bouldergebiet "Vogtland Bloc" im Vogtland gibt es einen kostenlosen Auswahlführer zum Downloaden: https://www.yumpu.com/de/document/view/63601192/vogtland-bloc-auswahlfuhrer

description

Die Kletterregion Vogtland umfaßt hier im wesentlichen den Bereich der vogtländischen Mulde und damit die nördlichen Teile des thüringischen und sächsischen Vogtlands. Das bayerische und böhmische Vogtland sowie die zum Elstergebirge gehörigen Anteile des sächsischen Vogtlandes bleiben außer Acht. Letzteres wird hier entsprechend der Gebirgszugehörigkeit separat geführt (http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/germany/area/648011757).

http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vogtland .

1.14.10. Thüringisch-Fränkisches Schiefergebirge 130 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 50.408301, 11.467942

description

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Naturraumkarte_Thueringisch-Fraenkisch-Vogtlaendisches_Schiefergebirge.png

Thüringisches Schiefergebirge = several ranges of mountains which correctly do not belong to "Thüringer Wald", however often are aggregated together with it under this name

Fränkisches Schiefergebirge = Frankenwald

(Vogtländisches Schiefergebirge = ostthüring. Schiefergebirge: geografically seen as completly different region, however similar rocks. Part of Vogtland)

1.14.11. Fichtelgebirge 679 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 50.085503, 12.040494

description

Das Fichtelgebirge endet aus deutscher Sicht an der Grenze zu Tschechien. Der tschechische Begriff Smrčiny ist etwas umfassender und schließt das nordöstlich angrenzende Elstergebirge ein.

see https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/germany/area/421095783

Limitations de l'accès

"Dreizonenkonzept" (see access issues of crags) (ohne Elstergebirge)

Zone 1: Ruhezonen, Klettern mit Seil nicht erlaubt, Boulder ist erlaubt, wenn nicht anders vermerkt

Zone 2: Vorrangzonen Naturschutz, Klettern auf bisherigen Wegen bis zum Umlenkhaken erlaubt, keine Neutouren

Zone 3: Vorrangzonen Klettern, Klettern und Neutouren nach Rücksprache erlaubt.

https://ig-klettern.org/klettern/zonierungen/fichtelgebirge/

où dormir

1.14.12. Obermainisches u. Oberpfälzisches Hügelland 107 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 49.751206, 11.799039

description

Zusammenfassung Obermainisches Hügelland und Oberpfälzer Hügelland.

Neben den Indoormöglichkeiten einige kleinere Klettereien und Bouldereien hauptsächlich an Sandsteinfelsen und in ehemal. Steinbrüchen.

1.14.13. Oberpfälzer Wald 148 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Style inconnu et other styles

Lat / Long: 49.610301, 12.437916

description

1.14.14. Keuper-Lias + Gäuplatten 586 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 49.387289, 10.044371

résumé

Nicht wirklich eine herausragende Kletter-"Region". Im wesentlichen .Indoor und einige Steinbrüche. Meist .Sandstein. Der Einschnitt des .Neckar erschließt zudem den darunterliegenden Muschelkalk (!).

description

Fränkisches und schwäbisches "Keuper-Lias-Land" und die Mainfränkische-, Tauber- und Neckar-Gäuplatten. Der Name ist nicht aus den Fingern gesaugt, sondern kennzeichnet immerhin 4 "naturräumliche Haupteinheitengruppen". Gerade zusammenfassend macht die Bezeichnung (und es gibt eben keine andere!) durchaus mehr Sinn, als die wenigen Möglichkeiten definitiv falsch dem Jura und Spessart mit den bekannten Gebieten zuzuschlagen, in noch wesentlich mehr Landschaftseinheiten aufzuteilen oder mangels "Kletterregion" die wenigen Crags und zwischenzeitlich Unmengen (!) an Gyms gar einzeln parallel und gleichwertig zu Regionen aufzuführen.

1.14.15. Frankenjura 14,844 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 49.247436, 11.408170

résumé

Frankenjura is a world famous climbing destination hosting many classics that are listed in climbing history books. Its sheer size and variety of climbs offer a lifetime of climbing.

description

Frankenjura is Germany's 2nd largest climbing area and a world-class sport climbing destination with a quite long history. In this large area in northern Bavaria, between the cities of Bamberg, Bayreuth and Nuremberg, there are approximately 1,000 different crags spread out in a pitoresque landscape of forested valleys and mediaval villages. Apart from climbing, don't forget to excessively test the excellent local beer and solid food.

The majority of the routes at Frankenjura are short powerful single pitch sport routes on excellent quality grey limestone. Most routes are either vertical or overhanging, finger pockets are very common. The best time to climb at Frankenjura is spring and autumn, but summer is also fine since many of the crags are hidden in the forest.

Limitations de l'accès

Frankenjura has an established zone concept regulating whether a rock is allowed and if yes, how: https://ig-klettern.org/naturschutz/zonierungen/

For seasonal closures of crags, see: https://ig-klettern.org/naturschutz/aktuelle-sperrungen/

For bouldering, check first: https://ig-klettern.org/klettern/wissenswertes/boulderappell/. Especially, no publishing of boulders, and no bouldering after sunset.

approche

Coming from abroad it is probably best to fly into Munich and rent a car. As the crags are spread out over a fairly large area having a car is strongly recommended anyways.

Check the many crags for more detailed information on access.

où dormir

Especially in the northern Frankenjura one can find plenty of rather cheap holiday appartments. Camping is another popular option. The legendary Oma Eichler campground in the Trubachtal is a meeting point for climbers since many years.

historique

A lot! Especially in the 80's, Frankenjura was the destination for hard-core climbing. You can find here the world’s first 8c ('Wallstreet') and 9a ('Action directe' 1991) and many more ultra classics. Frankenjura was also the birth-place of the redpoint concept, established by Kurt Albert † in the mid 70s.

1.14.16. Niederbayern / Bayerischer Wald 361 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 48.763532, 12.812080

description

https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bayerischer_Wald

approche

1.14.17. Oberbayern 7,147 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 48.097021, 11.908189

1.14.18. Bayerisch Schwaben 10 routes in Area

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 48.374988, 10.641208

1.14.19. Allgäu 2,267 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 47.731497, 10.279838

description

The Allgäu (Standard German: [ˈalɡɔʏ̯]) is a region in Swabia in southern Germany. It covers the south of Bavarian Swabia, southeastern Baden-Württemberg and parts of Austria. The region stretches from the prealpine lands up to the Alps. The main rivers flowing through the Allgäu are the Lech and Iller. Allgäu is not an administrative unit.

The Allgovian area is notable for its beautiful landscapes and is popular for vacations and therapeutic stays. It is well known in Germany for its farm produce, especially dairy products including Hirtenkäse ("herdsman's cheese") and Bergkäse ("hill cheese"), a generic alpine product also from Austria and Switzerland. Besides tourism and dairy products, another important economic sector is the building of industrial equipment and machines. Fendt tractors, developed and produced in Marktoberdorf are one of the most famous products of the region.

"Allgovia" is occasionally used as a synonym for the region. The alpine regions of the Allgäu rise over 2,000 metres in altitude and are popular for winter skiing. The castle of Neuschwanstein is in the eastern part of the Allgäu. Source Wikipedia

Maps

  • AVE 2, 7a

Guide Books

1.14.20. Hegau 359 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 47.855496, 8.938515

1.14.21. Linzgau - Oberschwaben 137 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.770004, 9.561350

description

Linzgau is a region in southern Germany in the state of Baden-Württemberg north of Lake Constance and south of the Danube valley. It is bounded by Lake Constance on the south, the Hegau on the west, the Danube valley on the north, and the Schussen River on the east. It reaches west as far as Überlingen and north as far as Pfullendorf.

1.14.22. Schwäbische Alb 3,820 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 48.445332, 9.588043

description

The Swabian Jura offers numerous possibilities for sport climbing and belongs - together with the Elbe Sandstone Mountains aka Saxon Switzerland and the Franconian Jura - to the outstanding low mountain ranges in Germany when it comes to climbing.

The 'upper Danube valley'[249396492] offers the best climbing possibilities and the highest walls. Other areas with good climbing possibilities are located in the 'Blaubeuren area'[249297927], in the 'Lenninger Valley'[249521403] and in the 'Ermstal Valley'[249742932]. The individual guides over the numerous larger and smaller rocks are described in several climbing guidebooks. On the Ostalb the rock formations of the Rosenstein near Heubach and the Eselsburger Tal are among the best known climbing areas. The steep rocks at the ruin Reußenstein near Neidlingen are also a popular place for climbing. In the Swabian Jura area there are hundreds of climbing routes up to difficulty level 10.

Source Wikipedia

Checkout Jörg Zeidelhacks video medley of hard routes in the Swabian Jura. It gives a great overview over the rock and landscape:

https://vimeo.com/185016466

https://vimeo.com/368491595

Limitations de l'accès

Climbing has not been permitted everywhere for several years. The Nature Conservation Act of Baden-Wuerttemberg includes the rocks among the so-called §24a biotopes. In principle, entering these biotopes is not permitted. In recent years, the nature conservation administration and the climbing associations have succeeded in defining the areas that can be climbed and the climbing bans for the entire Swabian Jura. Some rocks are now closed all year round, some climbing bans only apply seasonally during the breeding season of certain bird species (e.g. eagle owl or kestrel).

Source Wikipedia

1.14.23. Schwarzwald 2,409 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 29.513075, 4.941662

1.14.24. Westpfalz 2,779 routes in Region

Summary:
Style inconnu, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 49.301596, 7.765048

Limitations de l'accès

Always check for temporary closed crags due to environmental protection. There is a dedicated homepage from the 'Pfälzer Kletterer', that shows all currently closed crags: http://www.pfaelzer-kletterer.de/sub_tourendb/pfalztour/felssperrung/sperrlistePfalz.php

Please stick to it or some crags could be closed permanently, which happened in the past.

1.14.25. Saar-Nahe-Bergland 227 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 49.468141, 7.202650

description

1.14.26. Hunsrück 346 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 49.903177, 7.271803

1.14.27. Eifel 2,393 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 50.319264, 7.041019

1.14.28. Niederrheinische Bucht & Ruhrgebiet 2,378 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 51.317737, 7.103233

1.14.29. Rhein-Main 227 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 49.395111, 8.296448

description

1.14.30. Süderbergland 620 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 51.158860, 7.840747

description

1.14.31. Westerwald 23 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 50.631788, 7.943492

1.14.32. Taunus 372 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 50.285966, 8.194167

description

http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taunus

1.14.33. Odenwald 1,641 routes in Region

Summary:
Bloc, Escalade sportive et other styles

Lat / Long: 49.620004, 9.070736

résumé

description

1.14.34. Spessart 117 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 50.032436, 9.350670

description

http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spessart

1.14.35. Vogelsberg 0 routes in Region

1.14.36. Rhön 530 routes in Region

Summary:
Bloc, Escalade sportive et other styles

Lat / Long: 50.486466, 10.034221

1.14.37. Teutoburger Wald + Eggegebirge 342 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 52.131697, 8.308994

description

1.14.38. Weser-Leine-Bergland 3,748 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 52.031578, 9.394629

description

1.14.39. Großraum Göttingen 721 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 51.557193, 10.009333

1.14.40. Harz + Harzvorland 4,456 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle, Style inconnu et other styles

Lat / Long: 51.745381, 10.772017

description

Der Harz, bis ins Mittelalter Hart (‚Bergwald‘) genannt, ist ein Mittelgebirge in Deutschland und das höchste Gebirge Norddeutschlands. Er liegt am Schnittpunkt von Niedersachsen, Sachsen-Anhalt und Thüringen. Anteil am Harz haben im Westen die Landkreise Goslar und Göttingen, im Norden und Osten die Landkreise Harz und Mansfeld-Südharz und im Süden der Landkreis Nordhausen. Der Brocken ist mit 1141,2 m ü. NHN der höchste Berg des Harzes und Sachsen-Anhalts.

Die Bergwelt des Harzes wurde schon in früheren Zeiten für ausgedehnte Wanderungen genutzt (u. a. von Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Heinrich Heine und Hans Christian Andersen). Neben dem Okertal und der Roßtrappe bei Thale sind auch die Hohneklippen (Höllenklippe und Feuerstein bei Schierke) das Ziel von Kletterern.

Quelle: Wikipedia

Mehr Informationen gibt es bei der IG-Klettern Niedersachsen.

Limitations de l'accès

Aktuelle Informationen zu ganzjährigen und saisonalen Sperrungen gibt es bei der IG-Klettern Niedersachsen.

Bitte Ausschilderung und Absperrungen beachten !

Zonenregelung

  • Zone I: Tabuzone (ganzjähriger Verzicht bzw. Sperrung, Ruhezone)
  • Zone II: Status-Quo-Zone (Klettern nur auf den bestehenden Routen, keine Neutouren)
  • Zone III: Entwicklungszone (Neutouren möglich)

1.14.41. Eichsfeld (Thüringen) 0 routes in Region

description

https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landkreis_Eichsfeld

Als historische Region umfaßt das Eichsfeld auch Teile Niedersachsens und Hessens. Hier ist es im wesentlichen nur der thüring. Landkreis Eichsfeld.

1.14.42. Thüringer Becken 182 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et Traversée

Lat / Long: 51.094564, 11.055799

1.14.43. Thüringer Wald 1,143 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 50.750147, 10.609480

description

1.14.44. Nordhessen 181 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 51.143671, 9.321762

1.15. Greece 11,191 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 38.044128, 24.554689

description

some overview of climbing areas at http://climbgreece.com

1.15.1. Aegean Islands 4,186 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 37.270270, 26.180270

1.15.2. Athens 1,458 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 37.989674, 23.603477

résumé

The Capital of Greece with dozens of crags nearby, most easily accesible

description

Athens is a big city and in terms of climbing Atheneans are very lucky. There are nearby routes from 3 to 8th grade, short, long, sport, trad and mixed. Different crags may have complete different characteristics.

Climbing in Athens is friendly all year round if you choose the correct crag according to sun position

In general, if you travel by car approach is not an issue, most crags require less than 15 minute walking.

approche

Nearest airport is Eleftherios Venizelos (ATH). Biggest nearby ports are Piraeus, Rafina and Lavrio There is train (OSE) and bus (KTEL) conection with all major cities of Greece daily.

où dormir

Athens is full of Hotels, hostels, AirBnBs so you won't have problem finding where to stay

1.15.3. Crete 577 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 35.062677, 24.896817

résumé

Crete is the largest Greek islands and offers plenty of rock and sea. From a climbing perspective it is not as developed as some other islands but has huge potential.

approche

The island is well served by ferries and can also be easily reached by plane.

1.15.4. Evia 294 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 38.477359, 23.717770

résumé

Evia offers among others Alpine and Sport routes near Athens

approche

Evia can be accesed by car from the Highway Athens - Thessaloniki. Also, there are numerous ferry connections. The most importants are from Rafina, Aidipsos and Glyfa

où dormir

Evia is a touristic place and there are lots of hotels and rooms as well as camping places

1.15.5. Ipeiros 456 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 39.530496, 20.734685

1.15.6. Central Greece 287 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 38.624099, 22.131693

résumé

Officially central greece also includes Attica and Evia, but its probably better to leave these two as toplevel.

1.15.7. Macedonia 353 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et Bloc

Lat / Long: 40.641333, 22.793758

1.15.8. Peloponnese 2,821 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 37.184880, 22.377336

1.15.9. Thessaly 521 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 39.576886, 22.357820

1.15.10. Thrace 238 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 41.035762, 25.562138

1.15.11. Ionian Islands 0 routes in Region

résumé

The administrative region does include all of the Ionian Islands with the exception of Kythera. It is a popular tourist destination and offers some climbing and Deep Water Soloing.

1.16. Hungary 2,266 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 47.141204, 19.446180

description

Check http://ludens.elte.hu/climb/climb.html for helpful information.

1.16.1. Budapest 296 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.485239, 19.107418

1.16.2. Börzsöny 0 routes in Region

1.16.3. Bakony 280 routes in Area

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 47.229675, 17.743923

description

Bakony is a mountainous region in Transdanubia, Hungary. It forms the largest part of the Transdanubian Mountains. It is located north of Lake Balaton and lies almost entirely in Veszprém county.

1.16.4. Vértes 122 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.441683, 18.364652

1.16.5. Gerecse 616 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.662920, 18.476847

1.16.6. Mátra 197 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.913465, 19.955654

1.16.7. Pilis 345 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 47.705658, 18.917349

1.16.8. Zemplén 92 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Style inconnu et other styles

Lat / Long: 48.389392, 21.415338

1.16.9. Bükk 224 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade artificielle et other styles

Lat / Long: 48.011821, 20.507636

1.16.10. Balaton-felvidék 46 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et Style inconnu

Lat / Long: 46.912939, 17.447737

1.16.11. Aggteleki Nemzeti Park 0 routes in Area

résumé

Aggtelek National Park

description

National Park near the Hungarian-Slovakian border. The only crag in the area is at Aggtelek where climbing is only allowed during the annual "Aggtelek Kupa" (Aggtelek Climbing Festival).

1.16.12. Mecsek 48 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 46.144400, 18.265542

1.17. Iceland 152 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 65.085661, -17.422831

description

1.17.1. Reykjavik 37 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 64.294235, -21.493712

1.17.2. Akureyri 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade de glace et Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 65.804085, -19.110699

1.17.3. Vestfirðir 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
Bloc, Escalade traditionnelle et Style inconnu

Lat / Long: 65.915547, -22.796533

1.17.4. East area 80 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 65.002050, -15.409380

1.18. Ireland 2,694 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 53.167233, -8.608557

1.18.1. Dalkey Quarry 222 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 53.270666, -6.106943

1.18.2. Glendalough 48 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Bloc

Lat / Long: 53.006432, -6.396546

1.18.3. Ballykeefe Quarry 95 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Style inconnu

Lat / Long: 52.613179, -7.403106

1.18.4. Beaumont Quarry, Cork 1 route in Crag

Summary:
Tous Style inconnu

Lat / Long: 51.891045, -8.432084

1.18.5. Old Head of Kinsale 50 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Style inconnu

Lat / Long: 51.612678, -8.537342

1.18.6. Gap of Dunloe 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle et Style inconnu

Lat / Long: 52.017081, -9.649855

1.18.7. Lough Gur, Limerick 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Style inconnu

Lat / Long: 52.517046, -8.527217

1.18.8. Knockroe Crag, Limerick 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Style inconnu

Lat / Long: 52.579386, -8.505295

1.18.9. Ardmore, Waterford 20 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Style inconnu

Lat / Long: 53.588683, -8.777060

1.18.10. The Burren 37 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Style inconnu

Lat / Long: 53.070498, -9.357214

1.18.11. County Donegal 2,062 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 54.712551, -7.860699

1.18.12. Knockhourough Crag, Limerick 0 routes in Crag

1.18.13. The Playbank, Co. Cavan 52 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Style inconnu

Lat / Long: 54.179162, -7.953039

1.18.14. Inis Mór 0 routes in Region

1.18.15. Sligo 66 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 54.308698, -8.545819

1.19. Italy 54,389 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 41.853315, 12.575062

1.19.1. Liguria 5,942 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 44.247179, 8.759808

1.19.2. Piemonte 4,246 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Style inconnu et other styles

Lat / Long: 45.179949, 7.907869

1.19.3. Val d'Aosta 1,191 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 45.751377, 8.083387

1.19.4. Lombardia 7,951 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Style inconnu et other styles

Lat / Long: 45.625731, 10.076465

1.19.5. Trentino-Alto Adige 10,499 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 46.447644, 11.282691

description

The Dolomites (Italian: Dolomiti; Ladin: Dolomites; German: Dolomiten; Venetian: Dołomiti: Friulian: Dolomitis) are a mountain range located in northeastern Italy. They form a part of Southern Limestone Alps and extend from the River Adige in the west to the Piave Valley (Pieve di Cadore) in the east. The northern and southern borders are defined by the Puster Valley and the Sugana Valley (Val Sugana). The Dolomites are nearly equally shared between the provinces of Belluno, South Tyrol and Trentino.

There are also mountain groups of similar geological structure that spread over the River Piave to the east – Dolomiti d'Oltrepiave; and far away over the Adige River to the west – Dolomiti di Brenta (Western Dolomites). There is also another smaller group called Piccole Dolomiti (Little Dolomites) located between the provinces of Trentino, Verona and Vicenza (see the map).

One national park and many other regional parks are located in the Dolomites. In August 2009, the Dolomites were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

1.19.6. Veneto 4,697 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 45.733742, 11.866444

1.19.7. Friuli-Venezia Giulia 2,356 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 46.143571, 13.395018

1.19.8. Emilia-Romagna 1,095 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 44.440860, 11.039940

1.19.9. Toscana 2,118 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 43.222629, 11.057071

description

some topos (in Italian) at http://www.toscoclimb.it

1.19.10. Marche 554 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 43.323564, 13.063314

1.19.11. Umbria 746 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.877000, 12.637900

1.19.12. Lazio 2,991 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.001510, 12.766132

1.19.13. Abruzzo e Molise 1,230 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.141205, 13.868665

1.19.14. Puglia 278 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 41.239389, 16.487006

1.19.15. Campania e Lucania 927 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.685346, 15.177170

1.19.16. Calabria 230 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 39.039951, 16.281815

1.19.17. Sicily 2,166 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 37.630095, 13.782367

1.19.18. Sardinia 5,135 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.023795, 9.008808

résumé

Pleasant spring and autumn destination with marvellous seaside crags and lots of potential.

description

1.19.19. San Marino 37 routes in Area

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 43.937101, 12.463964

1.20. Kosovo 0 routes in Region

1.20.1. Peć 0 routes in Crag

1.21. Latvia 0 routes in Region

1.21.1. Riga 0 routes in Crag

1.22. Liechtenstein 19 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Bloc

Lat / Long: 47.141199, 9.552965

1.22.1. Drei Schwestern 1 route in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 47.175867, 9.572395

résumé

Impressive views to the Rhine valley, Alpstein, Walgau, Rätikon and Lake of Constance.

description

The Three Sisters are three peaks of a mountain chain in Rätikon, a mountain range of the western central alps. The main peak, the size of the sisters, has a height of 2053 m above sea level, the middle sister located north-east of it reaches a height of 2,048 meters and the north-eastern little sister is 2,034 meters high.

The three peaks mark the border between the Austrian state of Vorarlberg and Liechtenstein. West to the Rhine Valley and north to the Walgau the three sisters are very geographical dominant because of their advamced northwestern location and their steep rugged rock. Through a well-developed trail system they are easily accessible and are often ascended.

approche

Walk from Planken (FL) in 3 hours via Gafadura hut.

historique

The first ascent was made probably by hunter, the main peak was beaten by a tourist on 10 June 1870, the Scottish mountaineer John Sholto Douglass, which was accompanied by the hunter Wieser from Feldkirch.

1.22.2. St. Katharinabrunnen 18 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 47.057952, 9.513250

résumé

Few sparse boulders right at the borders between Switzerland and Liechtenstein. Agressive but good grip rock.

Limitations de l'accès

You can park your car at the parking lot, just 50m away from the 1st boulder, located at the very end of Balzers village. [Öffentlicher Parkplatz, St. Kathrinabrunna, 9496 Balzers, Liechtenstein - GPS : 47.058772, 9.512204]

éthique

Boulders are probably located on a private field/forest, and you might have to cross it to reach the boulders. Please respect the crop (if any) and avoid to damage the ground. Leave no trace behind.

1.23. Lithuania 0 routes in Region

1.23.1. Bonobo 0 routes in Gym

résumé

Lead climbing and bouldering gym with climbing specific exercise appliances, dry-tooling lead routes, natural light and more.

description

In BONOBO climbing center we have both lead climbing and bouldering walls with a variety of angles ranging from positive (slabs) to steep overhangs and the climbing hall has air conditioning as well as natural light most of the time during the day. We also have a training room full of training appliances such as a 2017 Moonboard, a Zlag board, campus and finger boards, a treadmill, dumbbells and a bench for pressing weights. Besides climbing itself we sell (and rent) climbing equipment, tasty sodas and coffee of course.

1.23.2. Vilnius 0 routes in Crag

1.24. Luxembourg 209 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 49.779547, 6.098995

1.24.1. Berdorf 203 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 49.831209, 6.343637

résumé

An excellent but small sandstone crag in Luxembourg, close to the German border. Often crowded on sunny weekends.

description

The "Wanterbaach" crag in Berdorf, Luxembourg offers excellent climbing on sandstone. There are about 150 routes in total with the majority of popular routes being 20 to 30 meters long and graded 5c to 7b. Most of the routes are well protected with glue-in bolts. Gear: 60 m rope, 15 quickdraws.

Crowds: Berdorf is usually very busy on sunny weekends, during school holidays of the surrounding countries, on Luxembourgish bank holidays, etc. An impression of how busy it gets: https://youtu.be/0mTddAKFeLw

The classic climbs start at 5c and the grading can feel hard if you're not used to the sandstone and because some popular routes have a though start. Climbers comfortable in the 6c to 7a range, will find the most 3 star routes to choose from. With 20 routes in the 7c to 8c range, Berdorf is attractive to pros too.

As a guideline for climbers who are just starting out: You'll probably have the most fun if you're able to lead 6a to 6b indoors. The routes graded easier than 5b are oftentimes intimidating, very short, or not enjoyable because of ropedrag.

The guidebook "Climbing in Berdorf, 2nd Edition" is available at the campsite "Martbusch", other places in town and online.

Limitations de l'accès

To be allowed to climb here, you need to be member of a climbing federation which is part of the UIAA or IFSC. Such as the FLERA, DAV, [...].

approche

From "Martbusch" camping site, walk towards the end of the road. Keep and turn right at the end of the road. Now in the forest, continue walking for some minutes until you see decending stairs to your left. These lead into the crag.

où dormir

There are two campsites in Berdorf: "Belle Vue 2000" and "Martbusch". Both are popular with climbers. If you're looking for more comfort, the "Trail Inn" is also very close to the climbing.

éthique

Used chalk? USE A BRUSH! Climbing below your limit? Try climbing without chalk.

1.24.2. Centre Sportif Coque 0 routes in Artificial

approche

d'COQUE 2, rue Léon Hengen L-1745 Luxembourg +352 43 60 60 1

1.24.3. Dillingen 6 routes in Field

Summary:
Mostly Bloc

Lat / Long: 49.853406, 6.298865

description

It is not allowed to climb in this area. Below are the routes of people who did so anyway.

approche

The exact location is unknown.

1.25. North Macedonia 308 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 41.593650, 21.703544

1.25.1. Kadina 0 routes in Crag

résumé

Climbing season: The crag is south-west orientated and provides perfect conditions for climbing in the period from October till beginning of May. Good climbing is also possible in the summer, only inside in the cave.

description

Equipment: The routes are up to 30 m long, and you will need 60m single rope. You will need up to 15 quick draws.

approche

The crag is located on 34 km, South-East direction from Centrum of Skopje, or chronologically 1 hour. Drive towards Zelenikovo village, through the suburbs Usje, Pintija, Drachevo, and after 15 min of driving you will pass Oreshani and Zelenikovo village. Right after is the Zelenikovo village rail station.

When you enter the village station Zelenikovo (you cannot miss) you continue on the road to the right from the railway, and in front there will be a mini square, (more likely-clearing) where the city bus line-67 turns back (this is the last station).

From there on, keep on the road, straight, and you will soon start uphill to the large “S” turn. Keep uphill and on the next left 180 turn, keep left, passing by small village Strahojadica (on the right), there will be panoramic view on the terrain in front. This road will take you to the rustic village Gumalevo. As soon as you pass Strahojadica, the dirt road comes next. Keep left. Do not turn. It lasts only 3km. Just keep straight on the road, and don’t turn at all. The dirt road is suitable for any kind of vehicle.

When you enter in village Gumalevo, drive until you exit the village, and right after 50m from the exit there is parking on the right side where you can park your vehicle. From there you continue on foot, and right after the sheepfold there is a Poplar tree which will instruct you to leave the wide trail you just walked, and brake left on the hiking trail. The hiking trail extends through tobacco fields, and a view of the crag will show up and continue. You will get into small forest of bushes which lead to Kadina Cave.

où dormir

In Skopje or in tent under the rock!

historique

The sport climbing crag Kadina is a newly found crag close to the Macedonian capital city, Skopje. This wonderful crag waited long to be found by the Macedonian sport climbers and finally happened in 2013, when Goran Kuzmanovski alias Malik, discovered it. This crag is one of a kind. Very soon after, Vladimir Trpovski, Dimitar Popov and Kire Serafimovski climbed the first lines there. Thank you to the members who helped in bolting this crag-- Macedonian sport climbing clubs SKK VARDAR and SKK Extreme, like Milan, Dino, Vane, Zuti, Viktor, David, Marta,Lide, Maja, Ici, Tomi, Zorko, Jozi and Miha.

1.25.2. Skopje 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 41.891816, 21.443186

1.25.3. Demir Kapija 201 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 41.408320, 22.259333

résumé

Demir Kapija one of the best places in Macedonia for climbing, mountaineering, trekking, fishing and other outdoor activities.

description

Now there are 16 sectors for sport climbing, more than 200 routes have varying category of difficulty from 4 to 8c, and about 20 bolting multipitchs, and infinite potential for old and new TRAD routes.

Limitations de l'accès

Many rocks are located near the roads and infrastructures, that gives fast access to most of the climbing sectors; most of it are suitable for beginners and groups with children. Most of the rocks are limestone but an hour away there are also sandstone and granite rocks for climbing, mountaineering and bouldering. Location of walls allows you to find a place for climbing at any time of the year. In the summertime everyone tries to hide in the shadow. In winter people can get joy from climbing in the sun light areas where rocks give their warmth.

approche

Nearest sectors are only 10 minutes walk from the center of Demir Kapija. Most of sectors reached from the parking place between the tunnels - (5 minutes by car) Demir Kapija’s community locates in the southern part of Macedonia next to the highway Skopje – Athens. The distance from Skopje is 117 km, which takes about an hour by car or two hours by train ‘Skopje – Gevgelija’. Distance to the border with Greece is about 80 km. The nearest international airports are: in Skopje (Alexander the Great Airport), in Ohrid (Ohrid St. Paul the Apostle Airport, 195 Km), in Thessaloniki (International Airport “Macedonia”, 121 Km). From one point to another you can get by bus or by taxi. Also you can order a transfer from an airport.

où dormir

historique

Although the first rout in canyon Demir Kapija was climbed (by our information) in 1974, and rocks have attracted sportsman for a long time, the most climbing activities in this area has been developing just in the last five years. The Number of routes and sectors have grown so fast and now, for climbers, tourists and backpackers, there are hostel and a nice place for camping "Rock land Camp".

1.25.4. Mavrovo 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 41.696480, 20.648740

description

Mavrovo is a well known tourist destination located in the high mountains in the western part of Macedonia. It's one of the best destinations in the country, popular for outdoor tourism and known for it’s huge potential and mystical beauty. It is a hot spot for skiing and ice climbing during the winter, mountain biking, hiking, fishing, kayaking and climbing during the summer. It is open all year round-- a cradle for all kinds of outdoor sports and activities. Macedonian sport climbers admire the beautiful and vivid rocks in the gorgeous canyon on Radika river.

Limitations de l'accès

Drive from Mavrovo- Mavrovi Anovi towards Debar, trough the canyon of Radika river. Follow the river, which is on your right side all the time, until the passing of the small bridge, which will switch the river side from your right to your left side. Right after the bridge, called Krivi Most, approx. 12 km from Mavrovi Anovi, on your left you will find a parking lot.

approche

Park deeply, close to the river as much as possible, so you can see your vehicle from the cave. Right across the parking, look up, and you will spot the great cave. The approach to the cave starts, across the road, next by the concrete drain, on your left side. Follow the steep trail, until you get to the foot of the cave, where a short via ferrata

où dormir

historique

Back in 2012, Kire Serafimovski and Vladimir Trpovski discovered the great breathtaking cave, which is pure climbing heaven. Years after, the first sport climbing routes were established. In that time, climbers obtained the permits for climbing from the authorities of the National Park “Mavrovo”, collected funds for bolts and equipment, planning and etc. but the steel-made bolts prevailed and a new sport climbing crag was born. Everything began when Vladimir Trpovski, Dimitar Popov and Aleksandar Brborovic climbed the first routes in late May 2013. Now we can proudly say that Mavrovo offers great opportunities and potential for sport climbing. We are very grateful for the support and cooperation from the National Park “Mavrovo” as well to Zdravko Petrovski, the President of the Sport Climbing Club EXTREME –Skopje for their help in the realization of this very important project, Sport Climbing Crag-Mavrovo.

1.25.5. Ohrid 0 routes in Crag

1.25.6. Prespa 0 routes in Crag

1.25.7. Prilep 13 routes in Field

Summary:
Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 41.380323, 21.578270

description

The city of Prilep is surrounded by numerous hills that have vast granite boulder fields currently undeveloped. Most of the existing boulders have been listed on 27crags however this page will supplement that source. The existing fields in Kamena baba may be on private land so ensure you are responsible and respectful.

approche

10 minutes from the city center by car

1.25.8. Plocha 60 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 41.621588, 22.314743

résumé

Plocha is one of the first and best arranged places in Macedonia for climbing. Suitable for climbing multipich routes and sport routes with grades from 3a to 8a. Within the place there are several boulders

description

Climbing locality Plocha is located in the south-eastern part of Macedonia along the highway Shtip - Radovish.

Plocha belongs to one of the best arranged climbing areas in the country with clearly marked access paths as well as fluorescent foils for easier orientation in the night hours.

The composition of the rock is Granite mixed with admixtures of basalt, in certain parts covered with moss which makes the routes very slippery after the rain and sometimes makes it impossible to climb.

The central rock is the largest and most suitable for climbing, with north-eastern exposure and the end parts with north exposure. The main crag is 70 to 90 meters high.

The central rock itself is naturally divided by two horizontal terraces which extend over the entire width of the rock. It offers excellent conditions for safe standing on the anchors.

Most of the routes are covered with bolts, and the traditional routes are left in the condition of the first climb, only the anchors are with bolts.

Limitations de l'accès

Plocha is located in the southeastern part of the Republic of Macedonia between the cities of Stip (23km) ans Radovish (13km) next to the highway M6. Plocha is 115 km away from Skopje. The closest access from Bulgaria is through the border crossing of Novo Selo, also from the other border crossings on the Macedonian-Bulgarian border. Approach from the Greece is closest to the border crossing of Dojran but you can also come from the border crossing of Bogorodica - Gevgelija.

où dormir

The climbing hut is located just below the main rock and has 12 beds in two rooms with solid kitchen and toilet. The lighting is with the help of solar panels. Next to the house there are two concrete places where you can light a fire or perform other outdoor activities. The routes are 5 to 15 minutes away from the hut through marked paths. The stay is with appointments and reservations.

1.26. Repubblika ta’ Malta 719 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 35.928907, 14.421488

résumé

Malta has about 700 sport routes, and 1500 trad routes. The majority are seldom climbed and don't suffer 'polishing'. There are many deep water solo and sea cliff traversing routes.

description

The Maltese rock sequence is divided into five main layers of limestone. Each layer has a distinct composition, as well as distinct properties. The lower coralline limestone is the oldest, and lowest layer. It is hard, and climbable. Victoria Lines, Wied Il-Għasel (Mosta Valley), Irdum Irxaw (Mistra), Ghar Lapsi, Wied Babu, Wied il-Mielaħ, Wied ix-Xlendi are lower coralline limestone. The upper coralline limestone is the youngest, and topmost layer. It is also hard, and climbable. Il-Latnija (Mellieħa Cave) and San Blas (Gozo) are upper coralline limestone.

Limitations de l'accès

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

approche

Sport Climbing in Malta & Gozo (2013) is the most recent guidebook containing ONLY sport routes. An update is in production and will be published in 2020.

Malta Rock Climbing the comprehensive guide (2007) is currently out of print but CAN BE RENTED, and contains trad routes.

où dormir

English is fairly widely spoken in Malta, so finding accommodation is relatively easy, but not particularly cheap. If you will rely on public transport, then Pembroke, Bugibba, or Mosta are a good choice.

éthique

Don't bolt here. There is a well established climbing community. If you seek to add routes contact either the Malta Climbing Club (UIAA affiliated) or the Malta Rock Climbing Club in Malta, or Stevie Haston in Gozo. All new routes are now being equipped with titanium bolts and anchors.

historique

Fishermen and pirates have climbed these cliffs forever. The British forces in the 50's and 60's established a number of routes, mostly in Wied Babu, Xaqqa and Ghar Lapsi. Many new trad routes were set up in the 80s by visiting Brit climbers. Sport climbing took off in the 90s with many trad routes being retrobolted but also many new sport routes and crags being developed since then.

1.26.1. Gozo 240 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 36.047906, 14.252440

description

The smaller sister island of Malta, Gozo, differs in many ways from the main island. The climbing, however, is just as spectacular, from stunning sea cliffs to shady inland crags, all in perfect limestone.

approche

The island is reachable by ferry only. For further information regarding ferry times and fares, refer to http://www.gozochannel.com

1.26.2. Comino 1 route in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 36.011634, 14.334454

description

The smallest island of the Maltese archipelago offers various trad climbing possibilities in gorgeous surroundings.

approche

Access to the island is by boat only. Ferries are commuting regularly from Malta and Gozo.

1.26.3. Malta 478 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 35.887924, 14.442211

résumé

The main island of the Maltese archipelago

1.27. Moldova 28 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Moulinette et Bloc

Lat / Long: 47.207723, 28.457614

1.27.1. Văratic 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.914414, 27.280114

résumé

description

approche

You can reach the rocks from the bridge in Văratic, or from Duruitoarea. In both cases you have to drive dirt road. After heavy rain it might be not possible to pass with normal car. The road, despite its quality, is very busy, as it makes it possible to shorten the distance when travelling between villages.

où dormir

You can find good spots for a tent placement on the map above. The only place with shadow is near the forest (1.5 km away in direction to Duruitoarea). As an alternative — you can stay at Duruita Camping in the village Duruitoarea (7 km), or at Casa Varatic (4 km).

historique

In 2017 I was searching for rock climbing locations in Moldova by looking at satellite images of the country. I noticed this place. Together with Marina we came here by bicycles. We were impressed by the overhanging grottes here. In 2020 we bolted a highline and first sport climbing routes.

1.27.2. Cobani / Кобань 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalade sportive et Bloc

Lat / Long: 47.758552, 27.327066

résumé

Easy climbing routes at the north of Moldova.

description

https://kotelnikov.blog/en/moldova-cobani/

One of the few places suitable for rock climbing in Moldova is Cobani. The village is located on the north of the country in Glodeni District. On the edge of the village there are toltres with the altitude of ~12 meters – Stînca Mare.

approche

The easiest way is to go by car from Chișinău or Bălți.

où dormir

Tents can be placed directly under and above the rocks.

historique

Since the 80s, tourists and mountaineers from Bălți have been training in this region as well as in Butești. In 2006 the Mountaineering Club of RM held here the championship of RM in rock climbing.

In autumn 2017 I was in this place and was very pleasantly surprised by the quality of the breed. In June 2018, me and a group of Chisinau enthusiasts bolted several sport climbing routes here.

1.27.3. Duruitoarea 0 routes in Crag

résumé

1.27.4. Old Orhei 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Tous Moulinette

Lat / Long: 47.302691, 28.963958

1.27.5. Socola 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
Tous Moulinette

Lat / Long: 47.906537, 28.812509

1.27.6. Chișinău 0 routes in Crag

1.28. Montenegro 392 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 42.715567, 19.249058

1.28.1. Podgorica 109 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.517595, 19.349064

description

Podgorica is a capital city of Montenegro, with around one hundred fifty thousand inhabitants. It is situated in the central part of the country, at the crossroads of several significant travel routes leading from the seaside to the continental part of the country. It has a good geographical position, between the coastal and mountainous belt. It has the sub-Mediterranean climate which is characterized by warm and dry summers and mild and rainy winters. It represents a good starting point for climbing activities in the crags in its surroundings, in the Morača Canyon, the Mrtvica Canyon, the Cijevna Canyon, the crag above Fundina, Ostroške grede, Kučke Mountains... .

©

approche

Podgorica as a centre of the state is well-connected (in terms of transportation) with all towns in the Republic, bigger towns of the neighbourhing countries, and with European centres. International Airport Golubovci is located 12 kms away from the city, while the airport in Tivat is about 75 kms away. The Belgrade - Bar railway line runs through Podgorica: for more information on train timetable dial:+38281633663. For further information on bus lines dial: +38281620430. Best information on domestic and international flights can be found on the website of the Montenegrin airline: www.montenegro-airlines.cg.yu

©

où dormir

There is a large number of hotels in the city, the list of which along with addresses and other information can be found on the website of the municipality of Podgorica www.podgorica.cg.yu. As there are no developed campgrounds in Podgorica and we know that outdoor sports enthusiasts are not the clients of the four and five star hotels, we can recommend the cheapest hotel in Podgorica, in the Smokovac suburb www.hotelizvor.cg.yu. We hope that things regarding the campsites in Podgorica will change soon.

©

1.28.2. Kučke planine 21 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 42.597043, 19.546478

description

A group of mountains known by the common name Kučke mountains is stretching north-east of Podgorica. Its highest peak is Surdup Peak, with an altitude of 2184masl. There are 14 peaks with the elevation over 2000 metres. In this massif there are also two mountain lakes: Bukumirsko Lake and Rikavačko Lake. Bukumirsko Lake is situated in the northern massif of these mountains, about 45 kms north of Podgorica, that is to say some 40 kilometres south of Kolašin. The elevation of the valley in which the lake is located is 1300 to 1350 metres and the valley is home for several katuns inhabited in the period from June to September. Kučke Mountains have been discovered by the mountain lovers rather late. The beginnings of alpine ascents date back to the end of the nineties of the last century when the members of the Alpine Section of Belgrade climbed several first ascents.

How to Get There

The lake can be reached along several travel routes, the common characteristic of which is a very bad gravel road in the last kilometres. Podgorica-Kržanja-Kastrat-Bljuštura-Bukumirsko Lake - around 45 kms. Asphalt road from Podgorica to Kastrat, further on gravel road for some 15 kilometres. Podgorica-Bioče-Veruša-Mokra-Bukumirsko Lake - about 50 kms. Asphalt road from Podgorica to Topli potok (few kilometres away from Veruša), further on the gravel road for some 5 to 6 kms. Kolašin-Mateševo-Veruša-Mokra-Bukumirsko Lake - around 40 kms. Asphalt road from Kolašin to Topli potok, further on a gravel road for some 5 to 6 kms.

Buses run along the road Podgorica-Veruša, Podgorica-Kržanja and Kolašin-Mateševo, therefore in combinations bus-hike, the latter takes 8 to 15kms (usually with the loaded rucksack on your back). Bus regularly departs from Podgorica only in the morning term, afternoon departures and departures starting from Kolašin depend on incredibly large number of different factors, so relying on those is not exactly the smartest thing to do.

Accommodation

In the valley there are many places suitable for camping, all depending on season, camper's tiredness or the want to socialise, from katuns and their immediate surroundings, to the meadows between Torač Peak and Pasjak Peak. There are springs with drinkable water in a totally satisfactory number. Since there are no mountain huts or developed bivouacs, tents are necessary.

©

1.28.3. Durmitor 38 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 43.130255, 19.073069

description

Mt Durmitor is one of the most interesting massifs in Montenegro. It belongs to the system of the Dinarides and is situated in the north-western area of Montenegro. The west face of Mt Durmitor is bounded by the Piva River Canyon, the northern and north-eastern part by the Tara River Canyon, the southern part by the Komarnica River Canyon, while to the east over the vast Jezerska visoravan (Lake Plateau) Mt Durmitor continues to the Mt Sinjajevina. On this mountain there are around 50 peaks with the elevation over 2000 meters above sea level, 18 glacial lakes, many glacial cirques, mountain passes, and a large number of rocks with a height of even up to 700 m. All this is concentrated in the small area which makes it one of the most attractive massifs in our country. Peaks and rocks of Mt Durmitor provide extraordinary conditions for rock and alpine climbing, both in summer and winter conditions. The climate of the Durmitor massif is very harsh, typically alpine. Summers are short and cool, while winters are long with heavy snowfalls. The largest settlement at the foot of Mt Durmitor is Žabljak. It is the centre of mountain tourism in Montenegro. The development of mountaineering and rock climbing on Mt Durmitor has a humble history, after all, as in all mountain areas in Montenegro. Mt Durmitor areas have relatively late discovered their beauties to the broader circle of mountain lovers. The more serious alpine ascents and traditional climbs were registered as late as in the 30s of the last century and were performed by alpinists from Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia... After the war alpinists have visited Mt Durmitor more intensively. At that time the mountaineering and rock climbing camps (at which certain rocks were systematically covered) were mostly organised. In the 50s Mt Durmitor was visited by alpinists from Slovenia, Serbia, Croatia, Poland. It was also a period in which the largest number of first ascents in the rocks of Mt Durmitor was performed. The crags are all limestone, but there are so many of them that it is really not hard to find the one which suits us with its solidness, difficulty and aesthetic. So far about some hundred routes have been climbed - some rock routes and some snow and mixed routes, but being scattered in various guidesbooks, clubs and organisations, data on those are pretty unavailable. For the largest number of routes in Mt Durmitoru which were climbed 40, 50 or more years ago, we have used the book „The Rocks of Yugoslavia" by the author Zlatko Smerke as a source. Routes in the rocks of Mt Durmitor peaks have been rarely repeated, so for the largest number of routes we have not been able to obtain additional information which would serve for comparison with the old route descriptions and the future climbers should bear this in mind.

How to Get There

If you're coming to Durmitor by car from the direction of the south, from the Adriatic coast main road over Podgorica (capital city), you can choose between two travel routes. One forks from Podgorica towards Nikšić, further on over Šavnik to Žabljak. The other travel route follows the major main road in the continental region which connects the north and the south. It runs from Podgorica toward Kolašin to Mojkovac, and from here it continues along the Tara River Canyon to Žabljak. Both travel routes in the winter months might be impassable due to the heavy snowfalls. If you are coming to Montenegro by plane, two international airports are available - in Podgorica, about 170 kms and Tivat about 250 kms far from Žabljak. Bus ticket from Podgorica to Žabljak costs about 7 to 8 euros and there are 2 to 3 departures a day.

Accommodation

In the Žabljak itself there are several hotels, motels and pensions as well as a large number of private houses offering lodging services. More regarding this you can find on the website of the local tourist organisation. Here we are going to highlight the accommodation facilities in the very mountain. In the area of Mt Durmitor there are two mountain huts, one bivouac, and one mountain shelter. Mountain hut near the Škrčka Lakes is situated at an altitude of 1723 masl. It has about 30 beds in shared rooms, a kitchen, and a dining room. It is open from mid-June to the end of September. The hut is the ownership of the Durmitor National Park. There is a possibility of pitching tents in the surroundings of the hut by paying an overnight camping fee, because the campground is located in the territory of the national park. Mountain hut in Sušica is open in the summer months. Pitching tents is possible there. On the official website of the Durmitor National Park we couldn't find data concerning the number of available beds in the hut in Sušica and regarding the lodging fees in these two mountain huts. Alpine bivouac is situated in the western part of Velika Karlica at an altitude of 2020 masl. It was built in 1973 by the Belgrade mountaineers and rock climbers. It can provide accommodation for 6 to 8 people. It is open all year round. There is no spring nearby. It has an exceptional location for performing ascents in the rocks of Savin Kuk Peak and Šljeme Peak. Approach starts from Black Lake (Crno jezero)- approximately 2.5 hour hike. Mountain shelter in Lokvice, at an elevation of about 1800 masl, is frequently visited mountain facility in Mt Durmitor, especially due to its location, because it is situated in the direction of the mountain trails starting from Žabljak. It can accommodate 6 to 8 people. The shelter is in a poor condition. It can be reached from Black Lake for about 1.5 hour of hiking. It is open throughout the year. There is a possibility of pitching tents nearby. At Lokvice, there is a small spring of drinkable water which is, however, covered with thick snow during the winter months so don't count on it too much.

©

1.28.4. Komovi 37 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.761711, 19.622176

description

Mt Komovi is a rather large mountain range in the eastern part of Montenegro, almost along the very border with Albania. Mt Komovi massif stretches in the direction SW-NE in a length of around 7 kms. The highest areas consist of the two obvious ridges stretching almost parallel to each other. These two ridges are divided by the large stony Medjukomlje pass. The east ridge is Vasojevićki Kom Peak(2460 m), while in the west ridge there are two dominant peaks - Kučki Kom Summit, at the same time the highest point of this massif (2484), and Ljevorečki Kom Peak, also known by the name of Sjeverni vrh(the North Peak). Due to the poor quality of rocks Mt Komovi is primarily a winter climbing area. A large number of technically undemanding lines provide nice climbing in the good snow conditions. The most attractive route is still Dijadema (The Diadem), 3.5 kms, a continuous ridge traversing: Vasojevićki Kom-Bavani-Kučki Kom-Medjukom and Ljevorečki Kom. First traversing was performed in 1956, and the first and so far the only, winter repeat was performed in 1967. A 400-meter high west rock face of Vasojevićki Kom Peak, still unclimbed, can be especially attractive for climbing in the winter months. Approach to the base of this rock is from Štavna plateau in the direction of Medjukomlje - 1 hr.

How to get there

You can reach Komovi from the direction of Kolašin, Andrijevica and Podgorica. All access directions lead towards the Trešnjevik pass, on the road Kolašin-Andrijevica, from where it takes further few kilometres to the foot of the mountain. In Kolašin one should turn towards Mateševo, a small village 10 kms far from Kolašin. On the crossroads in Mateševo one should turn left and via Bare Kraljske, along a narrow bendy asphalt road through wonderful areas and beech forests reach the Trešnjevik pass (1570 m). Then by the pub turn right onto a solid road through the forest, further few kilometers to the Štavna plateau at the foot of the Vasojevićki Kom Peak, which is the best starting point for all mountain climbing/alpine climbing activities on Mt Komovi. If you are staying in Podgorica and want to visit Mt Komovi, but you want to avoid summer traffic jams in the Morača River Canyon, then from the main road in the Bioče village, 10 km from Podgorica, turn onto the travel route to Lijeva Rijeka and Veruša (narrow asphalt road with a million of bends; it is not recommended in the winter months) which will take you to Mateševo from where further on you should take the already described road. Note: last kilometres of the access directions to the Trešnjevik pass from Kolašin and Andrijevica are impassable every winter for several months. Also, one should be aware that not even one bus runs along the travel route Kolašin - Andrijevica.

Accommodation

There are several accommodation options at the Štavna plateau. During the summer months you can opt for camping, space can't lack or you can stay in eco-katun (eco-cottage summer settlement), a newly built accommodation facility with five-bed wooden cottages, and a restaurant. Rent of one five-bed wooden cottage costs 25 euros per day. Also, it is possible sleep over in the log cabin-shelter, which is owned by the Mountaineering Association Železničar. If you find yourself on Mt Komovi in the winter, besides the log cabin of Železničar, it is also possible to stay in one of the cottages in the katuns left unlocked by the owners during the winter months. In order to stay in the eco- katun during the winter months one is required to call and make a reservation in advance. At the Štavna plateau there are several springs with drinkable water.

©

1.28.5. Orjen 22 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 42.537995, 18.583255

description

Mt Orjen massif is a part of the mountain range of the coastal mountains of Montenegro, and certainly its most interesting section as well. It occupies the south-western part of Montenegro. In terms of the area, it is the largest mountain massif on the Adriatic coast. It is situated at the junction of three boarders - of Montenegro, Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina. The main section of the massif comprises the groups of peaks situated in its central part which belongs to Montenegro. Mt Orjen is a constituent part of the system of the Dinarides, although it hasn't got the obvious spreading direction typical of the Dinarides. The highest peak of Mt Orjen, Zubački kabao, at the same time the highest peak of the coastal Dinarides, is 1894 metres high. More information on Mt Orjen, places to sleep, marked trails and speleo-objects you can find at www.subra.users.cg.yu Two perhaps the best rocks in Montenegro - Subra and Reovačka greda are situated on this mountain.

©

1.28.6. Moračke planine & Maganik 0 routes in Region

1.28.7. Boka Kotorska 42 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et Alpinisme

Lat / Long: 42.479182, 18.767175

description

Boka Kotorska Bay is one of the most beautiful bays of the Mediterranean, in which there are old towns of Kotor, Perast and Herceg Novi with the rich cultural tradition, long history, preserved architecture, fortifications, churches, cathedrals, palaces, squares which remember centuries, and other significant sites attracting tourist for a long time. In recent years, Kotor has been increasingly visited by climbers as well. In 2005 the Austrian climbers equipped 15 short routes in three locations.

Rocks in the surroundings of the small fishermen's settlement called Orahovac which is located on the road Kotor-Risan are more attractive for traditional climbing owing to its excellent quality and a beautiful landscape which opens while you are several hundred meters above the sea. In the last two years about 15 new routes, mainly of the lesser difficulty grades, have been climbed. The best time for climbing is from autumn to late spring. The south rock face of the Pestingrad Peak, with the height of about 350-400 m, dominates the town of Kotor. There are no ascended routes on this rock!

How to Get There

You will surely encounter problems in order to get to certain climbing destinations in Montenegro. However, it's not the case with Kotor. As a tourist centre, it has a good traffic connections with its surroundings. It is located 5kms away from the Tivat International Airport. There are numerous bus lines from all regions of Montenegro, and in recent years, from Croatia as well running to Kotor. The nearest railway station is located in Bar, about 65 km away.

Accommodation.

As a tourist centre Kotor offers various forms of lodging. Best information on accommodation facilities in Kotor you can find at www.tokotor.com, the official website of the local tourist organisation.

©

1.28.8. Hajla 0 routes in Region

description

Mt Hajla is situated in the very east of Montenegro within the municipality of Rožaje. In the broader geographical sense Mt Hajla can be regarded as the part of the north-eastern Prokletije; it spreads along the boarder of Serbia (Kosovo and Metohia) and Montenegro, more precisely, it lies between the source of the Ibar River and Rugovska klisura(gorge) in Kosovo. The relief is characterised by numerous peaks with the elevation of over 2000masl, canyons and gorges of the mountain rivers, numerous and picturesque coniferous forests and mountain pastures. The highest peak of Mt Hajla, 2403masl, is situated at the bare rocky ridge. In terms of height and beauty, a prominent peak is Ahmica Peak(2271masl )as well. Mt Hajla, although one of the fairly high mountains in Montenegro, until the last few years hasn't been widely known and visited. Only with activation of mountaineering associations in Rožaje working on promotion of this gorgeous mountain, among other things, a mountain hut has been built, Hajla has become widely known and visited. On this mountain there are outstanding terrains for ski touring.

How to Get There and Accommodation

As the best starting point for a visit to this mountain we can recommend the town of Rožaje in the very east of Montenegro. Rožaje can be reached from the south, from the direction of Podgorica, along the main road towards Bijelo Polje, further on towards Berane where one should turn left to Rožaje. From Rožaje one should head towards the Bandžov katun at 1460 masl, where there is a mountain hut of the PAK Jelenčica(Mountaineering and Alpine Climbing Club). It is 9 kms away from Rožaje and in the summer it is possible to reach it by passenger car, too. Mountain hut Bandžov can be reached along the road Rožaje - Berane towards the west, after the suburb Suho polje to the first bridge (Dimiskin bridge) over the Ibar River, across the bridge to the left along the gravel road leading to the source of the Ibar River. When you reach the fifth bridge, you'll come across the information board Bandžov, across the bridge on the left. After a kilometre, on the left side you'll come across another small bridge over the stream flowing into the Ibar River, you'll cross it and continue further on to Bandžov. The hut is open all the time during the summer, while in the winter months you must inform them about your visit in advance. It has about thirty beds. There are electricity and water in the hut. It is possible to pitch tents here. Within the katun it is also possible to rent some of the privately owned wooden cottages or log cabins.

©

1.28.9. Nikšić sa okolinom 0 routes in Region

1.28.10. Maglič - Bioč - Volujak 0 routes in Region

description

Mountan range comprising the mountains Maglić(2338), Bioč(2397) and Volujak(2336) stretches in the north-western part of Montenegro, making a natural border between Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina. In the heart of these mountains in the north-west, at an elevation of about 1500masl Trnovačko Lake is located and it can be used as a base for many ascents in the surrounding rocks. In these mountains there are some of the highest rocks in Montenegro. These rocks were systematically covered at several rock&alpine climbing camps, run in the period from 1949 to 1956, when the largest number of routes was ascended as well. Unfortunately, since then, there are almost no data on rock&alpine climbing activity in these rocks. Within this group of mountains we are going to present Mt Trnovacki Durmitor, too, which is situated among these three massifs and represents a separate entity.

How to Get There

From the Montenegrin side, the best starting point for all climbs and tours in these mountains is the town of Plužine, about 140 kms away from Podgorica, and then one should continue further on towards the Mratinje village, the Stabna village and Trnovacko Lake. The road from the town of Plužine, which is located on the main road Nikšić-Plužine-Foča, leads to the Stabna village. When going from the direction of Nikšić, before the bus station in Plužine, one should turn left into the town. Then one should follow a wide street leading on one's left-hand side. Its extension is also a road leading past Pivsko Lake to the Stabna village along the Vrbnica River. The road is passable for all vehicles. Mratinje village can also be reached along the main road Nikšić-Plužine-Foča. From the direction of Nikšić one should go past Plužine, and continue along the main road leading along Pivsko Lake. When the dam is reached, one should cross it. At the very end of dam there is a tunnel in which the crossroads to the Mratinje village is located as well. One should enter the tunnel which is marked with a signpost and follow the road further on. You can't miss it. The big crags in the massif of Mt Bioč can be reached fastest from the valley of Mratinje. Trnovačko Lake can be reached from three directions. The two of these are in the Montenegrin territory and one is in the Bosnian territory and it is the easiest one. First starts from the Stabna village along the woody valley to Malo Stabansko Lake. From there a steeper ascent to the big lake follows. From the lake head rightwards uphill through the pass to Stabanjska tap. Further to the north along the slopes of Krvava brda(Bloody hills) into the Smrekovac valley where there is a spring. One should continue along the valley to Urdeni dolovi where there is a crossroads of the marked roads. One should follow the left road. Then the descent down the stony and scree-covered slopes follows. One reaches Jezerski klanac(Lake Gorge), from where the road goes along a little wood and steep scree to Trnovacko Lake. From Stabna village the road is a footpath. A long and gruelling approach. The other difficult approach goes from the Mratinje village towards Carev do (Tzar's Dale) from where the trail goes steeply downhill towards the lake. The third and the easiest approach to the lake is from the Bosnian side, Foča-Tjentište-Dragoš sedlo-Prijevor, from where one-hour hike leads you to the lake. A gravel road runs from Tjentište further on, and it is good and suitable for passenger cars.

Where to Sleep.

Bring your tents along. There are no mountain huts, shelters or bivouacs on these mountains-

Climbing season lasts from late spring to early autumn, but climbing is the best during the summer months, because most rocks have the western or northern orientation.

©

1.28.11. Prokletije 97 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.535761, 19.818369

1.28.12. Budva 5 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 42.255237, 18.885353

1.28.13. Lovcen 3 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 42.399053, 18.829169

1.28.14. Perazica do 0 routes in Area

résumé

Small bouldering area

1.28.15. Perazica 0 routes in Area

résumé

Small bouldering area

1.28.16. Menke bar 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.097870, 19.141756

1.28.17. Tivat 12 routes in Area

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.434503, 18.716589

1.29. Netherlands 748 routes in Region

Accès: Corona: climbing halls are all closed again

Détails de l'alerte et commentaires

A créé il y a 5 semaines
Summary:
Mostly Bloc

Lat / Long: 52.203796, 5.289936

résumé

No mountains, no rocks. Instead this country has climbing halls, artificial outdoor areas, and shady buildering areas.

description

The organisation for Dutch climbers is the NKBV

Limitations de l'accès

Be aware that climbing outside (buildering) in areas that are not explicitly "tolerated" or "designated" may be unwanted or illegal.

1.29.1. Vechtpark 34 routes in Artificial

Summary:
Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 52.576351, 6.621523

1.29.2. Amsterdam 259 routes in Region

Summary:
Bloc, Moulinette et other styles

Lat / Long: 52.370118, 4.823161

description

Everything in and around Amsterdam

1.29.3. Utrecht 18 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Bloc

Lat / Long: 52.078835, 5.224018

1.29.4. Rotterdam 143 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 51.902493, 4.430255

1.29.5. Den Haag 27 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 52.048873, 4.356613

1.29.6. Heerlen 22 routes in Area

Summary:
Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 50.897126, 6.005420

description

1.29.7. Maastricht 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Escalade sportive et Bloc

Lat / Long: 50.840452, 5.705675

1.29.8. Den Bosch 0 routes in Region

1.29.9. Eindhoven 190 routes in Region

Summary:
Bloc, Escalade sportive et Traversée

Lat / Long: 51.448366, 5.475389

1.29.10. Tilburg 0 routes in Region

1.29.11. Arnhem 0 routes in Region

1.29.12. Nijmegen 4 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 51.817080, 5.830285

1.29.13. Groningen 0 routes in Region

1.29.14. Almere 0 routes in Region

1.29.15. Breda 0 routes in Region

1.29.16. Enschede 0 routes in Region

1.29.17. Apeldoorn 0 routes in Region

1.29.18. Zwolle 12 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 52.518226, 6.098461

1.29.19. Leeuwarden 1 route in Area

Summary:
Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 53.191769, 5.802561

1.29.20. Zeeland 16 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 51.497552, 3.801921

1.29.21. 4 Rockxity 10 routes in Artificial

Summary:
Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 50.984238, 5.846333

résumé

Een boulderblokje bij de Foroxity bioscoop

description

1.29.22. Keileembult - Urk 1 route in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 52.661506, 5.592429

résumé

The highest natural mountain in Flevoland (7m)

description

This mountain was climbed by a group of people who organized on YouTube. You can now log your ascent on The Crag

https://youtu.be/ilQ3B7l0_jo

historique

Originally a small fishermens island, it was connected to the mainland around 1939.

1.29.23. Trekkerskei 0 routes in Boulder

1.29.24. Rottum 0 routes in Boulder

1.29.25. Hunze Island 0 routes in Artificial

résumé

Klimmuurtje op vakantiepark Hunzepark

1.29.26. Borger 0 routes in Boulder

1.29.27. G1 Boulder 0 routes in Boulder

1.29.28. Rode Loper 0 routes in Artificial

1.29.29. Muurtje in Aalsmeer 3 routes in Artificial

Summary:
Bloc et Traversée

Lat / Long: 52.264381, 4.754420

résumé

Een traverse met grepen bij de Jozefschool.

description

Wat simpele traverses. Niet de moeite waard.

approche

Niet bereikbaar buiten schooluren, onderdeel van de speelplaats. Het is niet bekend of je hier zomaar naar binnen mag lopen tijdens schooluren.

1.29.30. Zwevende Steen 0 routes in Artificial

résumé

Kunstwerk de Zwevende Steen van Bas Maters

1.29.31. Graviton Bouldergym 0 routes in Gym

description

1.29.32. Rock Steady 0 routes in Gym

description

1.29.33. Boulderhal Kunststof 0 routes in Gym

description

1.29.34. Klimcentrum Yellow Stone 0 routes in Gym

description

1.29.35. Mountain Network Heerenveen 0 routes in Gym

résumé

Een klimhal van Mountain Network

description

1.29.36. Mountain Network Dordrecht 0 routes in Gym

résumé

Een klimhal van Mountain Network

description

1.29.37. Klimmuur Den Helder 0 routes in Gym

résumé

Klimmen in de kerk

description

Website en Facebook

Openingstijden zijn zeer beperkt!

1.29.38. Klimcentrum Alkmaar 0 routes in Gym

description

1.29.39. Fitland Mill 0 routes in Gym

description

1.29.40. Fitland Gemert 0 routes in Gym

description

1.29.41. Klimtuin Fliegerhorst 0 routes in Gym

description

1.29.42. La Vita Sana 0 routes in Gym

description

1.29.43. IVY Climbing 0 routes in Gym

description

1.29.44. Pentagonsport 0 routes in Gym

description

1.29.45. De Broekerberg 0 routes in Gym

description

1.29.46. Het Sportpark 0 routes in Gym

description

1.29.47. Sport Parc Sandur 0 routes in Gym

résumé

Een klein binnenklimwandje

description

1.29.48. Buiten de Bongerd 0 routes in Artificial

résumé

Een oubollige klimmuur van de Wageningense Universiteit

1.29.49. Binnen de Bongerd 0 routes in Gym

résumé

De nieuwe klimhal van de Wageningse Universiteit

description

Opent in 2019

1.29.50. Avalon Fitcentre Wageningen 0 routes in Gym

résumé

Een sportschool met een bouldergedeelte.

description

1.29.51. Boulderwerk Gouda 0 routes in Gym

résumé

Nog niet geopend

description

1.29.52. Multisportpark Berg en Bal 0 routes in Gym

description

1.30. Norway 19,246 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 69.428946, 14.133930

1.30.1. Eastern Norway 6,449 routes in Region

Summary:
Bloc, Escalade sportive et other styles

Lat / Long: 60.726891, 9.989820

1.30.2. Southern Norway 1,304 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 58.791012, 7.756998

1.30.3. Western Norway 7,274 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 60.906980, 6.811561

1.30.4. Mid Norway 829 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 63.973048, 11.080867

description

A new guidebook "Trønder Rock" is available from 2011. Includes 9 new cliffs which were not described in the old guidebook.

1.30.5. Northern Norway 3,389 routes in Region

Summary:
Bloc, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 68.149998, 20.000629

1.30.6. Svalbard and Jan Mayen Islands 1 route in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade de glace

Lat / Long: 78.678269, 19.470593

1.31. Poland 13,171 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 51.964174, 19.097003

1.31.1. Skałki Lądeckie 169 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 50.334119, 16.897641

1.31.2. Jura 9,352 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 50.341045, 19.608591

résumé

Area located between Kraków and Częstochowa, on a distance of about 140 km. The biggest and most popular climbing area in Poland. Mostly sport climbing, over 10000 climbs.

description

Limestone crags of Jura are well protected, mainly with inox bolts. The most popular crags are: Rzędkowice, Podlesice, Podzamcze and valleys (called "Dolinki") located near Kraków. World's third 8b was climbed by Piotr Korczak in Mamutowa Cave in 1986. This famous route was first repeated after many years.

approche

Fly to Kraków or Katowice, then by car or train. Most crags are generally easily accessible, 5-15 min from parking lot. Lots of regions are safe for children (flat grassy terrain).

où dormir

Lot of cheap rooms to rent (look for "agroturystyka").

éthique

Standard.

historique

Climbing around Kraków (in "Dolinki") began around 1907. North part of Jura was discovered for climbing after World War II.

1.31.3. Tatry 82 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et Escalade de glace

Lat / Long: 49.325594, 19.990006

1.31.4. Warszawa 0 routes in Crag

1.31.5. Góry Stołowe 359 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle et Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 50.370054, 16.519499

1.31.6. Góry Izerskie 118 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et Style inconnu

Lat / Long: 50.866806, 15.496972

1.31.7. Karkonosze 309 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 50.809801, 15.596999

1.31.8. Poznań 0 routes in Region

1.31.9. Beskidy 629 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et Bloc

Lat / Long: 49.598420, 20.780797

description

Beskid Mountains are Poland's largest area mountains. There are several small climbing areas.

1.31.10. Pogórze Sudeckie 1,935 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et other styles

Lat / Long: 50.981564, 16.097672

1.31.11. Pasterskie Skały 31 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 50.272070, 16.747686

1.31.12. Świętokrzyskie 187 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 50.881894, 20.576540

1.32. Portugal 2,320 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 35.941357, -18.849837

description

Location and topos of many areas in Portugal can be found here (click on map): http://climbingportugal.blogspot.com/

1.32.1. North Portugal 357 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 41.480809, -8.006267

1.32.2. Central Portugal 793 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 39.452836, -8.177811

1.32.3. Lisbon Area 971 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 38.921300, -9.096575

1.32.4. South Portugal 181 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 37.152688, -8.358396

1.32.5. Azores 10 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 37.837155, -27.891922

description

1.32.6. Madeira 8 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 31.637555, -16.523686

1.33. Romania 7,142 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 45.919964, 25.040950

description

Detailed topos and descriptions in English and Romanian: http://roclimbs.ro/EnDefault.aspx (the Romanian version of the site might contain more info)

Another info source (only in Romanian) is: http://eclimb.ro/

Another info source (Romanian/English) is: http://www.romaniaquest.com

1.33.1. Apuseni Mountains 2,185 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 46.386281, 22.505614

1.33.2. Bucharest 0 routes in Crag

1.33.3. Central Region 1,997 routes in Area

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 45.516186, 25.227756

description

guidebook: "Rock Climbing in Romania - A Climbing Guide of Brasov Crags" http://www.climb-europe.com/RockClimbingShop/A-Climbing-guide-of-Brasov-crags.html

1.33.4. Cheile Dobrogei 27 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle et Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 44.502529, 28.425876

résumé

Cheile Dobrogei, near Cheia, is a long cliff-like limestone formation along the road. It ranges from bouldering height to 20+ meters. Bolting started in 1997 with still lots of potential.

description

545/5000 The Gorges of Cheile Dobrogei, near Cheia, is a beautiful rock formation declared natural reserve on an area of 285 hectares. The limestone, dating back to the time of the Thetis Sea, are former coral reefs. Some climbing action occured since 1995, but the bolting started only in 1997. All routes were marked at the bottom with their name and grade (French). The potential of the area is very high, both for trad, sport and bouldering.

approche

Drive to Cheia, then take the road South for a kilometer. the cliffs are just along the road.

historique

The limestone, dating back to the time of the Thetis Sea, are former coral reefs.

1.33.5. Macin 107 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 45.146946, 28.393724

résumé

area around Macin city

description

area covering macin park and all the hills and quaries around it. This granite hills are the remains of the most ancient mountains of Romania

1.33.6. Oriental Carpathians 982 routes in Area

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 46.717383, 26.096839

1.33.7. South-West 1,688 routes in Area

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 45.277285, 23.396126

description

1.33.8. Banat 45 routes in Area

Summary:
Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 45.347130, 21.640332

1.33.9. Iasi 22 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.138908, 27.605283

1.33.10. Munții Gutâi 89 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.791187, 23.786294

1.34. Russia 1,928 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 63.451860, 106.619224

description

You can find nice topos on https://allclimb.com/en/

1.34.1. Moscow 0 routes in Region

1.34.2. St. Petersburg/Karelia 139 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 62.396317, 32.970383

1.34.3. Krasnodar 445 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 44.753668, 39.351548

1.34.4. Krasnoyarskiy krai 237 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 65.902279, 95.257272

1.34.5. Bashkortostan 27 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 53.969547, 55.786457

1.34.6. Volgogradskaya oblast 0 routes in Region

1.34.7. Irkutskaya oblast 54 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 58.019206, 108.934701

1.34.8. Kabardino-Balkaria 29 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Moulinette et Bloc

Lat / Long: 43.554402, 43.506663

1.34.9. Kemerovskaya oblast' 116 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 54.772304, 87.220282

1.34.10. Novosibirskaya oblast' 21 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 55.291118, 79.755504

1.34.11. Altay 261 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 50.996958, 86.239344

1.34.12. Lipetskaya oblast' 25 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 52.625463, 39.175156

1.34.13. Rostovskaya oblast 47 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.775506, 41.254482

1.34.14. Sverdlovskaya oblast 12 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 58.662198, 61.551371

résumé

Approximately 900 routes in this region, and the biggest areas are Kourovka - 105, Aramashevo - 72, Severka - 147, Chertovo - 103 routes

1.34.15. Stavropolskaya oblast 242 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 44.912832, 43.259546

1.34.16. Habarovskaya oblast 0 routes in Region

1.34.17. Chelyabinskaya oblast 108 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 54.690234, 60.049394

1.34.18. Severnaya Osetija 131 routes in Area

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 43.201980, 44.346367

1.34.19. Chukotka Autonomous Okrug 12 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 66.453113, 169.919404

1.34.20. Yakutia 22 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 66.648877, 129.962725

1.35. Serbia 737 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 44.209832, 20.797368

1.35.1. Despotovac Manasija 0 routes in Crag

résumé

liso uz despotovac ima 6 route

description

pre od manastir ima parking, liso parkinga bas na put

Limitations de l'accès

Nije bas lepa klisura posto je bas pored puta

approche

na izlaz grada, poslem mosta ima parking na desnu stranu, klisura je odma pored glavnog puta (vidise kad prodjes za auto)

où dormir

trucevac air bnb

éthique

-

historique

-

1.35.2. Beljanica 116 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 44.086513, 21.664421

1.35.3. Beograd 46 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 44.771798, 20.438441

1.35.4. Dubočka pećina 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 44.551122, 21.766413

1.35.5. Grdoba 82 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 44.208447, 19.711929

résumé

Grdoba offers steep, technical climbs on overhangig limestone of excellent quality in a very rural, quiet and beautiful setting.

description

Grdoba is one of the youngest climbing areas in Serbia, which has seen great expansion in recent years, due to the proximity of Belgrade and because of the possibility of climbing throughout the year. Stena is a limestone overhang which dominates the area. So prepare well your biceps and foot technique if you plan to climb in this part of Sumadija. Due to the division of the climbs on five blocks with different orientation and the shadow of the trees, the area can be climbed all year except in the coldest winter.

approche

Arrival is easy by car. Stena Grdoba is located in the village Poćute 25 km away from Valjevo on the main road Valjevo-Debelo Brdo-Bajina Basta. In the center of the village, turn right on a side road to the monastery Pustinja, the road passes just above the wall. You can park above the first block.

où dormir

  • Camping above the second block.
  • Mountain Lodge at Krušik Medvednik, continue through Pustinja next to the monastery and across the river Jablanica macadam road up to the house about 10 km. (063/8035848 - Sacred)
  • Mountain Lodge at Debelo Brdo, continue along the main road from Poćuta to Bajina Basta to the saddle of the same name in which the home is located. (064/2575205 - Tile)

1.35.6. Sićevo 34 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 43.332652, 22.150772

résumé

Wonderful area with a lot of potential. Good quality limestone, maximum 30m routes. Right part was bolted in 2015.

description

The area is located 25 km from Niš, road to Pirot, passing through Prosek and Ostrovica. After the monastery of Sv. Petka in Ostrovica and three tunnels on the main road there is the first parking climb on the left side of the road. Please be very careful because of the high frequency of traffic on this part of the road. From the parking lot to the rooftop are stairs, which pass into the path leading to the Velika Vranovica cave (2min walk). The routes are on the left and on the right side of the cave.

Limitations de l'accès

National reservate.

approche

Please be very careful because of the high frequency of traffic on this part of the road. From the parking lot to the rooftop are stairs, which pass into the path leading to the Velika Vranovica cave (2min walk). The routes are on the left and on the right side of the cave.

où dormir

In Niš, Niška Banja or in nearby villages in private houses that offer accomodation.

1.35.7. Jelasnicka Klisura 208 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 43.281761, 22.067241

description

Niš is located in South-Eastern Serbia and has much potential with limestone cliffs dotted throughout the valleys and even high mountaineering.

Limitations de l'accès

approche

About a 20 minute drive from Niš towards Sofia is Jelasnicka Gorge with about a dozen bolted limestone cliffs.

1.35.8. Krnjača 47 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 43.423104, 19.403200

1.35.9. Ljubovija 67 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 44.269247, 19.430551

résumé

Climbing on vertical to slightly overhanging limestone next to a huge monastery. Due to tree shade and orientation climbing is best in summer. Some of the routes stay wet after rain.

approche

By road about 170 km from Valjevo. When you arrive in Ljubovija, take the main road to go to Mali Zvornik. After 10km you will see the turn off for the Monastery of St. Nikolaj Velimirović. After follow the way to the monastery where there is a large parking lot.

où dormir

Sleeping in tents near the monastery (please behave accordingly). Accommodation in the guest house of the monastery. Rooms are at a price of 600 dinars per night and double rooms - bed 1200 RSD per person. Just outside monastery are toilets and water to drink.

1.35.10. Prijepolje 31 routes in Region

Summary:

Lat / Long: 43.308637, 19.622394

où dormir

Sleeping in tents near the climb. Sleeping in the mountain cabin. Sleeping in Vacation Rentals in Sopotnica.

1.35.11. Rajac 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 44.173432, 20.207671

1.35.12. Petnicka Pecina 2 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 44.245553, 19.934852

1.35.13. Tara 1 route in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 43.884241, 19.449766

1.35.14. Stol 68 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 44.176289, 22.131565

résumé

Stol mountain contains many sport, multi-pitch and trad routes and it is one of the nicest climbing places in the eastern part of Serbia. The best months for climbing sport routes are from April until it snows (mid of October or later, depending on the weather), because the sport routes are in the woods and can be climbed during hot summer days. The best months for multi-pitch and trad routes are from April until June and from late August until mid October, beginning of November, again, depending on the weather and if there is a snow.

description

Rock is solid quality white limestone. There are more than 60 sport routes, grades in range from 4c to 8a+ and more than 30 multi-pitch/trad routes with grades in range from I to VIII.

More information about this climbing place can be found on the following sites:

  • https://serbianclimbing.com/penjalista/prirodna/borski-stol/ - make sure to select the English language, as the site is primarily on Serbian. This site contains only data about sport climbing routes.

  • aob.org.rs/_penjalista/bors… - this site is in Serbian and contains data about multi-pitch and trad routes. Disclaimer - not frequently updated.

approche

If coming from Beograd, you need to take E70 highway toward the city of Nis. Take the exit to Paracin city and follow road signs toward Bor. Follow the route to Bor and upon getting there, continue towards the village Veliki Krivelj. It is approximately 20 minutes ride towards the village. Upon reaching the village, in the center crossroad, turn right and on the next turn, turn left, towards the village of Gornjane and Carevo Selo, and follow the road. At some point you will reach some houses and there is a sign Carevo Selo (maybe in Cyrillic). Upon passing that part of the road, continue on and 5-10 minutes on you will reach the crossroad with some mountain markers. That place is called "Cepe" and it is a starting point of reaching the Stol mountain. On that crossroad turn right and followed good road towards the mountain home. It is approximately 20 minutes ride. Ride to the mountain home is approximately 20 minutes long, and for the most part of good quality. If you want a bit more hiking experience, you can also take the hiking trail towards mountain home, hike is around 30-45 min long.

où dormir

The stay can be in the mountain home, price is approximately 500rsd (4-5 eur) per night.

1.36. Slovakia 9,906 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 48.685685, 19.696261

éthique

1.36.1. Bratislava a okolie 312 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 48.163246, 17.321010

1.36.2. Záhorie 1,793 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 48.559895, 17.278041

description

1.36.3. Biele Karpaty 55 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 49.048286, 18.089279

1.36.4. Považský Inovec 176 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 48.687218, 18.095553

1.36.5. Strážovské vrchy 1,782 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 48.952230, 18.276982

1.36.6. Ponitrie 353 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 48.392146, 18.198783

1.36.7. Kremnické vrchy 58 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive et Bloc

Lat / Long: 48.704427, 18.978175

1.36.8. Vtáčnik 756 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 48.644141, 18.688885

description

1.36.9. Veľká Fatra 601 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 48.964706, 19.042468

1.36.10. Malá Fatra 572 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 49.236096, 18.827475

1.36.11. Chočské vrchy 199 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 49.163832, 19.366145

1.36.12. Štiavnické vrchy 401 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive et Bloc

Lat / Long: 48.413413, 18.785072

1.36.13. Poľana 447 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 48.688893, 19.282688

1.36.14. Slovenský raj 398 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 48.880455, 20.550527

1.36.15. Muránská planina 165 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 48.711041, 19.945125

1.36.16. Slovenský kras 318 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 48.630383, 20.821685

1.36.17. Volovské vrchy 234 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 48.798890, 21.041780

1.36.18. Branisko 0 routes in Region

1.36.19. Slanské vrchy 115 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 48.928820, 21.468435

1.36.20. Skalky v okolí Humenného 24 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 49.026374, 21.991308

1.36.21. Nízke Tatry 516 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 48.955583, 19.784250

1.36.22. Tatry 535 routes in Region

Summary:
Alpinisme, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 49.181105, 19.948396

description

-

1.36.23. Veľký Krtíš 42 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 48.246736, 19.247138

1.36.24. Volovské vrchy 2 0 routes in Region

1.36.25. Baterka 22 routes in Field

Summary:
Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 49.341986, 20.671949

1.36.26. Mažiar Jasličky 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Tous Bloc

1.36.27. Pustá Ves 7 routes in Field

Summary:
Tous Bloc

1.36.28. Rumanova dolina 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalade sportive et Alpinisme

1.36.29. Stratenská Píla 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 48.870555, 20.354013

1.37. Slovenia 3,348 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 46.118306, 14.816807

1.37.1. Labotniške Alpe 15 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 46.930366, 14.996618

1.37.2. Gore vzhod Mura 0 routes in Region

1.37.3. Karavanke + Pohorje 175 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 46.455881, 14.818680

1.37.4. Kamniško-Savinjske Alpe 20 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 46.306023, 14.623027

description

AVE 60

1.37.5. Julijske Alpe 1,332 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 46.131075, 13.763488

description

AVE 58

1.37.6. Dinarsko gorstvo 27 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 45.670137, 14.247009

1.37.7. Zalec 598 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 46.254546, 15.071116

1.37.8. Trbovlje & Hrastnik 43 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 46.137672, 15.085214

1.37.9. Zagorje ob Savi 65 routes in Region

Summary:
Bloc et Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 46.148549, 14.935224

1.37.10. Domzale 23 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 46.154602, 14.691517

1.37.11. Celje 8 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 46.204890, 15.465339

1.37.12. Koper 770 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 45.514424, 13.836513

1.37.13. Ljubljana 160 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 45.984027, 14.552594

1.37.14. Ribnica 85 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 45.709735, 14.672242

1.37.15. Urbasova skala 27 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 46.466363, 13.970264

1.38. Spain 54,879 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 35.507386, -7.121869

1.38.1. Catalunya 18,985 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 41.683850, 1.989917

1.38.2. Comunidad Valenciana 10,894 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 39.273944, -0.403442

éthique

  • La piedra caliza es blanda - por favor, limpie tus zapatos de la suciedad con el fin de evitar asideros y pasos pulidos.
  • No instala toprope directamente a través de anclaje o anillos - usa tu propio material en su lugar.
  • Limpia las marcas de tiza con un cepillo.
  • No dejes papel higiénico.
  • Recoge la basura - también las colillas de cigarrillos.
  • Aparcar con consideración (los tractores deben poder pasar también el fin de semana).

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through anchors or bolts – use your own material instead.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish - also cigarette butts.
  • Park considerately (tractors should be able to pass also at the weekend).

1.38.3. Murcia 342 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 37.937560, -1.404148

1.38.4. Castile and León 2,534 routes in Region

Summary:
Bloc, Escalade sportive et other styles

Lat / Long: 40.795738, -4.425987

1.38.5. Madrid 2,107 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.538560, -3.814285

1.38.6. Galicia 178 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.860104, -8.109478

1.38.7. Asturias 1,080 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 43.388069, -5.799782

1.38.8. Cantabria 293 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et Style inconnu

Lat / Long: 43.282077, -4.014994

1.38.9. País Vasco 655 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 43.056983, -2.583271

Limitations de l'accès

1.38.10. La Rioja 73 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.274670, -2.517753

1.38.11. Navarra 212 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 42.618678, -1.597021

1.38.12. Castilla–La Mancha 1,625 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 39.589351, -3.011849

1.38.13. Aragon 6,318 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 41.411057, -0.700520

éthique

  • La piedra caliza es blanda - por favor, limpie tus zapatos de la suciedad con el fin de evitar asideros y pasos pulidos.
  • No instale top-rope directamente a través de anclaje o anillos - usa tu propio material en su lugar.
  • Limpia las marcas de tiza con un cepillo.
  • No dejes papel higiénico.
  • Recoge la basura - también las colillas de cigarrillos.
  • Aparcar con consideración (los tractores deben poder pasar también el fin de semana).

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through anchors or bolts – use your own material instead.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish - also cigarette butts.
  • Park considerately (tractors should be able to pass also at the weekend).

1.38.14. Extremadura 72 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 39.195197, -6.147962

1.38.15. Andalusia 4,562 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 37.353718, -4.562049

1.38.16. Islas Canarias 2,282 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 28.255098, -16.102398

1.38.17. Balearic Islands 2,667 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 39.413243, 2.753270

1.39. Sweden 16,874 routes in Region

Summary:
Bloc, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 62.062119, 17.446308

description

Climbing with different characteristics and quality spread around the country. With some exceptions mainly single pitch and bouldering on granite. Areas worth to check out if visiting is Bohuslän, Västervik, Göteborg.

Overview of Swedish climbing areas: http://www.sverigeforaren.se

Limitations de l'accès

Please used designated parking areas. Check Sweden climbing association access database: http://access.bergsport.se/

1.39.1. Lapland 108 routes in Region

Summary:
Bloc, Escalade de glace et other styles

Lat / Long: 66.778993, 18.960101

résumé

1.39.2. Norra kustlandet 710 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 64.679976, 20.442441

résumé

Nothern coast

description

North coast guidebook: Guidebook (Info and webshop) http://borrbult.blogspot.com/p/webshop.html

1.39.3. Jämtland 477 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 63.137947, 14.187817

1.39.4. Sundsvall 239 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 62.406728, 16.716295

description

1.39.5. Dalarna 103 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et other styles

Lat / Long: 61.071289, 14.463520

description

1.39.6. Gävle 16 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et Bloc

Lat / Long: 60.604165, 17.057030

1.39.7. Uppsala 379 routes in Region

Summary:
Bloc, Escalade sportive et other styles

Lat / Long: 59.769700, 17.424533

1.39.8. Västmanland 19 routes in Region

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 59.800756, 16.206143

1.39.9. Södermanland 402 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et other styles

Lat / Long: 59.061616, 16.733918

description

1.39.10. Stockholm 3,742 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 59.258886, 18.006027

description

Stockholm has around 150 documented cliffs with a height between 10-40 meters. All in all here is more than 2 500 routes on these cliffs. The city and its neighbouring archipelago makes some of the climbing very beautiful, especially summer time when you can climb almost 24h a day.

Links:

1.39.11. Örebro 30 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et Style inconnu

Lat / Long: 59.377344, 14.765171

1.39.12. Skaraborg 53 routes in Area

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et other styles

Lat / Long: 58.446106, 13.617541

1.39.13. Östergötland 854 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et other styles

Lat / Long: 58.203471, 15.547856

1.39.14. Gotland 48 routes in Region

Summary:
Bloc et Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 57.552988, 18.578793

1.39.15. Västervik 988 routes in Region

Summary:
Bloc, Escalade sportive et other styles

Lat / Long: 57.851504, 16.382061

description

Good quality granit climbing. Sport, trad and bouldering.

Västervik Climbing club: http://www.vastervikclimbing.se/

Topos for the most popular crags are available at

http://www.vastervikclimbing.se/bouldering/

http://www.vastervikclimbing.se/sportklattring/

The GPS coordinates of some parking areas in the topos have apparently been mixed up, so better refer to the directions than simply following the coordinates.

1.39.16. Jönköping 34 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 57.498016, 14.405643

1.39.17. Bohuslän 2,188 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 58.649336, 11.630828

description

Bohusläns climbing club: https://www.bohuskk.se/

Crackoholic 90 min film about the climbing history of Bohuslän by Jonas Paulsson and Mikael Widerberg

Limitations de l'accès

General sensitive access situation. In some cases very sensitive.

Bohuslän climbing club 2020-08 access situation post (Swedish): https://www.bohuskk.se/HEM/Nyheter/hostmoteochklattertraning/vadkanjaggoraforaccessen/

Summary: - Avoid camping and make fires close to climbing crags and swim spots. - Use camp sites. - Avoid sleep in your car / van close to climbing crags and swim spots. - Check latest access info. - Car share. Parking is an issue at many crags. - Keep low profile.

où dormir

Bohuslän climbing club cabin:

http://www.bohuskk.se/BOENDE/Klubbstugan

Camping run by the farm just next to the crag Häller.

https://www.hallerklattercamping.se/en/

Villa Bro. Lodge in brodalen.

https://www.villabro.se/

1.39.18. Tjörn & Orust 513 routes in Region

Summary:
Bloc, Escalade sportive et other styles

Lat / Long: 58.139063, 11.623445

1.39.19. Göteborg 3,892 routes in Region

Summary:
Bloc, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 57.685937, 12.117142

1.39.20. Borås 257 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 57.701255, 12.842216

1.39.21. Halland 24 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle, Bloc et Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 56.881654, 12.891311

1.39.22. Skåne 1,285 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Bloc

Lat / Long: 55.941704, 13.545600

1.39.23. Blekinge 147 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et other styles

Lat / Long: 56.389483, 15.377581

1.39.24. Hälsingland 124 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle, Style inconnu et other styles

Lat / Long: 61.570249, 16.374080

1.39.25. Värmland 242 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et other styles

Lat / Long: 59.808572, 13.124683

1.40. Switzerland 35,033 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 46.800005, 8.242850

résumé

Bouldering, single and multi-pitch sport climbing, trad and alpine lines in the alps - Switzerland has it all. Crags for any season and any level, typically easy to reach and in stunning environments.

description

Switzerland contains three basic topographical areas: the Swiss Alps to the south (Alpen), the Swiss Plateau or Central Plateau (also called Mittelland), and the "Jura" mountains on the west.

All 3 areas offer plenty of climbing, obviously in very different environments.

The alps (Alpen) offer everything, from bouldering in world class spots such as Magic Wood, Cresciano or Chironico to name just a few to single- and multi-pitch sport climbing on all sorts of rock types and alpine climbs on some of the highest summits in the alps.

The Central Plateau (Mittelland) offers climbing and bouldering in a more gentle environment, often on the foothills of the alps or the base of the Jura.

The "Jura", being a much older mountain range than the alps, offers gentler slopes with elevations below 1800m ASL. Many of the climbing spots in the Jura have historic significance and are - due to their lower elevation and favourable climate - good for climbing year round.

Short distances, great public transport and a huge choice of climbing spots make Switzerland one of the most important climbing destinations in Europe.

approche

Switzerland is located in the center of Europe and easy to reach from almost anywhere.

1.40.1. Jura 8,251 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.138347, 7.071905

1.40.2. Mittelland 814 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 47.144464, 7.881861

1.40.3. Alpen 25,968 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 46.642374, 8.645683

1.41. Ukraine 4,090 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 48.071269, 31.261615

description

1.41.1. Crimea 2,182 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et other styles

Lat / Long: 45.222496, 34.243902

description

1.41.2. Dovbush Rocks 270 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalade sportive et Bloc

Lat / Long: 49.042350, 23.683239

résumé

description

1.41.3. Devil's rocks 34 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 49.829100, 24.117128

résumé

Anchors are old, some loose rock! Small sandstone crag near Lviv city with some nice short sport climbing routes and boulders

description

Picturesque area with free camping, it has water spring nearby, easy to get from Lviv

Limitations de l'accès

Free

approche

This crag is situated between Lviv and Vinniky in Vinnik forest. You should take buses from Lviv to Vinniky (Львів-Винники) - № 36,36А,7А and stop at "Vinniky lake" (Винникове озеро). From here go through wooden gate and follow to forest.

où dormir

Lviv city, or in tent near rocks

1.41.4. Kamyanets'-Podilskyy 155 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 48.670018, 26.578114

résumé

One of the biggest climbing areas in Ukraine, located in a very interesting historic town - Kamyanets'-Podilskyy.

1.41.5. Buky 96 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 49.090484, 30.398462

résumé

High quality granite, beautiful lines with wide range of grades

description

Buky is cozy climbing crag with great and high-quality routes. Located in one of the most picturesque areas of Ukraine - this place is a must visit - even without climbing. Great camping areas. Facebook community https://www.facebook.com/Buki-Climbing-2565199086876487/

Limitations de l'accès

Nothing special on access - it's free and good for camping.

approche

The nearest cities is Kiev - the capital, and Cherkassy - regional center. Public transport available from Cherkassy. Easy 5 minutes walk from bus stop in Buky village

où dormir

Camping (though no facilities for it - just on the ground right on the site

1.41.6. Boguslav 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 49.540756, 30.879240

description

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKMyAGWsdEQ

1.41.7. Chykalivka quarry 48 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 48.994136, 33.590179

description

1.41.8. Korostyshiv 75 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalade sportive, Bloc et Moulinette

Lat / Long: 50.349882, 29.133768

description

où dormir

1.41.9. Deneshi 43 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 50.201289, 28.387631

description

1.41.10. Zhytomyr 43 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 50.255866, 28.662764

description

1.41.11. Sabariv 1 route in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 49.190965, 28.462566

résumé

Три часа от Киева. Красивый поворот реки. Огромный луг. В левой части скалы будет 9-10 трасс. Потенциал правой части пока тяжело оценить.

1.41.12. Kaspich Roсks (Dynamo) 34 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 49.219080, 28.463872

1.41.13. Dzvonyha 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 49.009242, 28.574252

résumé

description

1.41.14. Yuzhnoukrainsk 33 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.804568, 31.177112

description

A small climbing area with granite vertical routes up to 7b. Mostly 5c-6c.

Limitations de l'accès

You can camp close to the rocks.

1.41.15. Migeya 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 48.005480, 30.994361

description

où dormir

1.41.16. Khortytsa 47 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.818048, 35.099910

description

Full guidebook http://bit.ly/2vr312r

1.41.17. Onokivtsi 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
Moulinette, Escalade sportive et other styles

Lat / Long: 48.658437, 22.345577

résumé

Guidebook http://tiny.cc/dsh7tz

Nice little rock near the water channel, 10 min. by public bus from Uzhgorod. The moves on the routes are interesting. Top Rope only.

1.41.18. Sokolets' 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Moulinette

Lat / Long: 48.688964, 22.534058

1.41.19. Smerekovyi kamin' 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 48.399812, 23.073501

description

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eA1Oj0GyYVQ&feature=emb_logo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53NuPRGuRH8

approche

1.41.20. Bilyj Kamin' 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Moulinette

Lat / Long: 48.493433, 24.564263

1.41.21. Zuevka 18 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Moulinette

Lat / Long: 48.060449, 38.291696

1.41.22. Sokil'skyi hrebet 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Moulinette

Lat / Long: 48.262533, 25.026315

résumé

Beautiful location, 8 sport climbing routes, 12 top rope routes Potential for 50 routes

1.41.23. Protyate Kaminya 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalade sportive et Moulinette

Lat / Long: 48.165240, 25.160718

1.41.24. Novograd Volynksyi 1 route in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 50.619295, 27.625153

1.41.25. Devil's valley 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.723715, 31.482097

description

1.41.26. Ostriv Paskhy (Kamjanka) bouldering 238 routes in Crag

Summary:
Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 49.044292, 23.577930

résumé

description

Bouldering area with amazing boulders. Almost every year this area hosts a bouldering festival. Topos: https://27crags.com/crags/easter-island-ukraine

https://fb.watch/2WAjigV2Id/

approche

30-40 minutes walk uphill from the parking area

1.41.27. Mountain Kliuch bouldering 90 routes in Field

Summary:
Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 49.038749, 23.603529

description

Very nice forest bouldering area, excellent quality boulder

approche

1.41.28. Jamelnica bouldering 131 routes in Field

Summary:
Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 49.172330, 23.478098

description

1.41.29. Honduras bouldering 88 routes in Field

Summary:
Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 49.038997, 23.685392

description

historique

This bouldering area was cleaned up by the climbers from Lviv. Also hosts a climbing festival "Honduras fest"

1.41.30. Yaremche bouldering 14 routes in Field

Summary:
Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 48.460313, 24.579139

1.41.31. KorchynWood bouldering 0 routes in Field

1.41.32. Kremenets bouldering 207 routes in Field

Summary:
Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 50.112194, 25.733415

description

1.41.33. Yuznoukrainsk bouldering 55 routes in Field

Summary:
Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 47.816264, 31.162082

description

1.41.34. Ivanivka bouldering 45 routes in Field

Summary:
Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 47.883639, 31.111704

description

https://youtu.be/BBttOY0rpPg

1.41.35. Cerkivna bouldering 8 routes in Field

Summary:
Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 49.001400, 23.788701

1.41.36. Arbuzinka bouldering 0 routes in Field

description

1.41.37. Lover's rock bouldering 1 route in Field

Summary:
Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 50.865575, 28.365894

description

1.41.38. Tustan' Wild bouldering 0 routes in Field

1.41.39. Yaremche trad 1 route in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 48.439955, 24.554135

résumé

Trad only

1.41.40. Kostel rock (Gorgan) trad 1 route in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 48.401165, 24.647843

résumé

Trad only

1.41.41. Shpytsi trad 1 route in Crag

Summary:
Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 48.121295, 24.561160

résumé

1.41.42. Nadsluchans'ki granity trad 0 routes in Crag

résumé

description

10 routes, some trad routes, needs additional info

1.41.43. Mountain Dobryana 0 routes in Field

description

1.41.44. Korets' 0 routes in Crag

résumé

https://uk.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%9A%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B5%D1%86%D1%8C%D0%BA%D1%96_%D0%B3%D1%80%D0%B0%D0%BD%D1%96%D1%82%D0%B8_(%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%BA%D0%B0%D0%B7%D0%BD%D0%B8%D0%BA)

description

5-6 routes, needs additional information

1.41.45. Mezhybrody 0 routes in Crag

résumé

Nice rock to bolt in the future

description

1.41.46. Truhaniv 0 routes in Crag

résumé

Wild bouldering and high rocks to bolt in the future

description

1.41.47. Kinashki rocks 0 routes in Crag

résumé

To bolt in the future

description

https://uk.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%A1%D0%BA%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%96_%C2%AB%D0%9A%D1%96%D0%BD%D0%B0%D1%88%D0%BA%D0%B8%C2%BB

1.41.48. Jamel'nica rocks 0 routes in Crag

description

1.41.49. Aktovskyi kanyon (Mertvovod) 0 routes in Crag

1.41.50. Kramatorsk 0 routes in Area

résumé

1.41.51. Ternoshors'ka Lada 0 routes in Area

résumé

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQZtinrzEVE

1.41.52. Kyiv 0 routes in Crag

1.42. United Kingdom 30,726 routes in Region

Summary:
Style inconnu, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 55.347134, -3.114043

1.42.1. England 25,562 routes in Region

Summary:
Style inconnu, Escalade traditionnelle et other styles

Lat / Long: 52.774502, -1.840212

1.42.2. Scotland 2,013 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle, Style inconnu et other styles

Lat / Long: 57.957154, -4.168720

1.42.3. Wales 2,857 routes in Region

Summary:
Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et other styles

Lat / Long: 52.400145, -4.065736

1.42.4. Northern Ireland 294 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 54.615645, -6.492651

résumé

Northern Ireland boasts some incredible sea cliffs and some lovely inland mountain climbing. A strict trad ethic is in place for all of Northern Ireland

description

Northern Ireland has two main areas, both with a very different feel. Fair head is a stunning sea cliff crag with dolerite rock and great gear, mostly crack climbing. The Mourne mountains offer a great contrast with very bold limestone in a mountain setting.

Limitations de l'accès

Northen Ireland is has strictly traditional ethics. Some bouldering areas exist, but no hardware is to be placed on any rock. Most crag access is through private farm land, please respect the owners.

approche

The city of Belfast allows a good base for all climbing in Northern Ireland. The Mournes can be accessed by bus, however you will need a car to get to Fair Head.

où dormir

Many hostels and hotels exist in belfast centre, or you can find inns closer to the crags.

éthique

No hardware to be placed on any rock in Northern Ireland. Strictly trad and bouldering. Please contact local climbers before setting new routes.

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