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Saison
Résumé
Calcaire
Sunny crag with vertical routes in very smooth rock.
Description
Vertical
Face
Soleil toute la journée
Sud
One of Kurt Albert †'s favourite places, the Glatte Wand ("smooth wall") offers some technical face climbs mostly devoid of pockets. The climbing takes place on slopers and crimps, except for the great crack climb on the left (and the spicy crack finish of "Sportflieger"). The most popular route is the endurance classic "Tower of Power".
Limit. de l'accès hérité de Frankenjura Nord
Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags
Additional information: IG Klettern closure list
Zoning concept
- Zone 1: NO climbing
- Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
- Zone 3: new routes possible
Please respect signs and zoning.
Approche
Plat
5-10 minutes
Leave the B470 in Streitberg at the traffic lights. There is a free parking lot directly after the turnoff. From there, walk north-west to reach the road leading up the hill at the little kiosk (Streitberger Berg). Follow that uphill and keep going straight where it makes a left turn, onto a marked hiking trail (signs towards "Muschelquelle"). Follow that for about 400 meters and you'll be at the crag.
GPS: 11.22689, 49.81526
Éthique hérité de Frankenjura Nord
- The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
- Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
- Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
- Don't leave toilet paper.
- Pick up rubbish.
- No unnecessary noise.
- No camp fire and bivvy.
- Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
- Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
- No publishing of boulder blocks.
Historique
Graphique de l'historique des voies
The first route here was a ridiculous technical aid climb that started up "Dornröschen" up to the rooflet, then traversed to the right into "Sportflieger" and a bit up to a belay (there used to be a tree in the crack). It then traversed 7 meters to the right to another belay, and finished with a rope tension traverse even further to the right and down to the edge of the wall.
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Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher
Auteur·e·s: Ulrich & Harald Röker
Date: 2023
ISBN: 9783938680490
Volume 1 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6450 routes on 479 crags - the complete work, including Volume 2, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.
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Auteur·e·s: Ulrich & Harald Röker
Date: 2020
Volume 2 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6790 routes on 387 crags - the complete work, including Volume 1, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.
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Auteur·e·s: Sebastian Schwertner
Date: 2021
Band 1 des Gesamtwerkes für den nördlichen Teil der fränkischen Schweiz - auf 584 Seiten werden 6100 Routen vorgestellt. Zusammen mit Band 2 ergeben das mehr als 1150 Seiten genaue Informationen zu den über 12.600 Routen des Nördliche Frankenjura …
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Logements à proximité plus Cacher
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