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Waldkopf Tous Escalade sportive 6 voies en falaise

  • Contexte de la cotation : UIAA
  • Photos : 2
  • Ascensions : 31
6
UIAA
910-10+11

Saison

J
F
M
A.
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Limit. de l'accès hérité de Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

Approche

GPS: 11.60229, 49.63480

Éthique hérité de Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

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1
11 ★ Action Directe Sportive 15m

The world's first UIAA 11 (8c+/ 9a) and today considered a benchmark for 9a.

The original route bolted by Milan Sykora traversed in from the right, but Güllich bolted a more direct start that consisted of crux dynamic move to a two-finger pocket.

The route is named after a French far-left terrorist group which was active between 1979 and 1987, murdering 12 people and injuring 26. Apparently the inspiration for the name came during training for the route (including mono campusing) as it appeared to Wolfgang that the intense training required was an act of terror against his fingers. It was also a fitting name for the direct start Wolfgang had bolted.

It took 11 days of efforts for Wolfgang to free the short (5 bolts / 15m) but powerful route, which he did using a 16-move sequence on September 14 1991. The route has seen about 20 repeats after the first ascent by Wolfgang Güllich †.

The fastest redpoint to date was by Alex Megos who sent the route in just 2 hours. He has repeated the route 4 more times since.

Ascents

Équip.: Milan Sykora

FFA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1991

2
9 Feiste Fäuste / Rote Wand Sportive 12m, 5
3
9+ Teddy's Wampe Sportive 15m
4
10- ★★★ Slimline / Slim Line Sportive 13m
5
10- MaWi's Wampe Sportive 12m
6
9+ ★★ Sachsenboulder Sportive 6m

FFA: Alexander Adler

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Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Franken 1 - northern Frankenjura Volume 1

Auteur·e·s: Ulrich & Harald Röker

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9783938680490

Volume 1 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6450 routes on 479 crags - the complete work, including Volume 2, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.

Acheter
ⓘ
Franken 2 - northern Frankenjura Volume 2

Auteur·e·s: Ulrich & Harald Röker

Date: 2020

Volume 2 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6790 routes on 387 crags - the complete work, including Volume 1, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.

Acheter
ⓘ
Frankenjura Band 1 - Kletterführer

Auteur·e·s: Sebastian Schwertner

Date: 2021

Acheter
ⓘ

Logements à proximité plus Cacher

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10- ★★★ Slimline

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Waldkopf - Waldkopf

Alexander Megos dans ★ Action Directe 11

Mer 19 Avr
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