Aide

Tachioka yama

  • Contexte de la cotation : US
  • Photos : 10
  • Ascensions : 3
  • Aka: 太刀岡山

Saison

J
F
M
A.
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Limit. de l'accès

It's a ~6000yen taxi ride from Kofu station or 40min drive.

Approche

The scissors rock (hasami iwa) and the ridge on the left rock ridge can be seen from the car park. Walk 1 min up the road until you see a gap in the guardrail. Follow the short path and cross the ladder bridge over the stream. There will be an abandoned house on the left but keep following the forest path and cairns for about 15 minutes.

Éthique hérité de Japan

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.

http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0

Voies

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Cotation Voie
1 5.9 20m
2 5.7 20m
3 5.8 20m
4 5.5 20m
5 5.8 20m
6 5.6 40m
7 5.6 45m
8 5.6 30m
9 5.8 15m

Exposed route with lots of variety.

p1 5.9 20m - bottom section is a crack climb and top section is a fist jam.

p2 5.7 20m - bottom section is a crack climb and top section is a chimney

p3 5.8 20m - chimney plus squeeze through on the left to another chimney

p4 5.5 20m - 1 bolt on rock to an easy hike on the right side

p5 5.8 20m - traverse ridge with exposed gaps to cross. Build a trad anchor on the large middle rock

p6 5.6 40m - ridge climb. Gets run out as you traverse across

p7 5.6 45m - knife ridge. Gets run out as you traverse across

p8 5.6 30m - stone shrine in a corner of hasami iwa

p9 5.8 15m - slab climb with some bolts (This pitch can be skipped)

Gear: cam #0.1, #0.3-5, extra #1 and #2

Descent: Rappel to the top of the 8th pitch and walk in the opposite direction of the small shrine. Pass the 5.13a bolted route and follow the mountain trail. You will see a signboard and follow the trail to the car park (~20-30 min)

FA: 篠原達郎、松原尚之, 2008

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