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Mosey up to the cave via the L crack, launch out onto the lip jugs of 'Repo Man', then veer R and up on good but spaced holds past two FH's into the finish of 'Cricket Bats In A Box'.

Very appealing rock.

Start: Under the nice bulgy orange buttress closest to the road and start up the left leaning crack only to break right almost immediately.

Start as for Saggitarian, head left under bulge and dyno up left through it past a carrot bolt hammered into a break like a piton. Yes, you read that correctly, and that's why I've attributed the route to Mike Law as surely noone else would have thought this was a great idea. I just TR'd it.

Originally climbed by Claw with a rest and named "Wild Drugs and Crazy Sex".

As for 'Look Sharp' to first bolt, then move left and up the wall past more bolts.

The others noodled around for a few days cleaning up the easy stuff, then Moorhead produced this! Sustained, with a strenuous bouldery crux. In fact, two bouldery strenuous cruxes.

Start at short black flake 10m R of 'Hyperspace'. Flake to grey coloured RB, L to pockets (#4 friend), then R up flake to tough finish.

The original start climbed a tree, which has since fallen down. Following this you needed to batman to a the bolt and start at the flake. An independent right hand start which goes free from the ground was later bolted and climbed.

Start at the next flake R of 'Letting Go'. Climb the edges up the face to the R, then layback with difficulty up weakness past another bolt. Originally given 24 with a rumour it was hard for the grade.

Wall 5 metres left of 'Crucifixion'. Hopelessly contrived. You can sort of make an OK 21 out of it by zigzagging left and right.

The seam.

Start: Start just R of 'Hunger'.

A forgotten Gordy concoction. up face past 2 FHs then move right to vague arete past two more FHs.

L on shallow flakes then up past 2 FHs. If you go straight up before the traverse it's only 20.

Start: Start R of MRS.

Start beneath high ring bolt and follow right-trending overlaps to a diabolical crux level with the bolt. Turn your mind insane and follow the seam to its end, whereby a worrying reach out to crimps and a sidepull leads you to easier climbing above. Take small thin (0.5cm) slings to wrap around nubbins en-route and a large one for the jug further up. Make sure you don't fall off past the bolt!

Start: Start 2m R of R.

A classic piece of Mike Law funkness. Start left of 'Skydiver' beneath the bolt and try your best to get off the ground and reach the sanctuary of the seam above (crux). Once into the seam, continue up the obvious line (grade 23 this section) via technical face climbing and more bolts. Pull through the top bulge on slopers and finish easily.

VS to SM starting from the right past 2 FH's.

Up face via three bolts to anchor crux passing second bolt

I Dunno to level with the traverse back right into Daily Planet, arrange a nest of good gear then continue straight up via a reachy and exciting sequence (RP possible mid crux).

As for Heimweh, then veer L where Heimweh goes R into DaC. up past a few intermittent seams, then R into DaC up high.

Start as for Debutantes. Runout up L and traverse back R on layaways in horizontal weakness to join DaC. Finish up this.

Start L of the blunt arete. Trend R to arete past 3 RBs. Crux to break then tend leftwards past good trad to loweroff.

The face with 2 bolts, involving two distinct boulder problems. Reachy start off two sidepulls then into slopers to a brief respite, then a cute micro crimp problem to the ledge. Easily up from there. Harder than some 26s. Start R of D&C.

The reachy face with a bolt. Start just R of Lois Lane.

Beautiful slab into super steep roofing - great moves. Almost a sport route (take some small cams and there is a fixed wire) Start as for the The Last Disco Dancer and follow this to the roof (cam in slot here) head diagonally R through the roof past 2 UBS, crossing Pain Street (fixed wire and small cam) and continue R out the prow past 2 more UBs and some powerful moves to a lower off!

Climb It'll Never Fly almost to arete, then cut back diagonally right and up to another bolt (exciting) then up to anchor.

Start: As for It'll Never Fly.

There is good small gear and a peg at the start of Plimsoll to get going. Traverses right past a bolt to a rest then up past a second to a runout section. Airy.

Used to be desperate and dangerous with only a manky fixed sling for protection, and first you had to get to it. Recently retroed by the FA so it’s now popular. As for Muldoon for 10m, then climb R arete of cave past 3 RB to lower-off.

Start between NPS and CitS at the base of the V-slot the trail goes up. No bridging onto the opposite wall! Bad old FH, and then the crack. You can add to the fun by finishing up Crows in the Snow.

Start just right of the U bolts - use the stick clip! Thin face climbing and a dyno, nice! Originally given 26 with fewer bolts and no stick-clip.

Direct finish to Gay Olympics through the roof past another FH on the lip, to loweroffs.

An excellent birthday present from Glenn to Kevin; the best route on Collision Course wall. Climbs the wall between Collision Course and Female Friends. Take off a star if the bees return. Three bolts and some trad gear.

Either climb the pillar immediately right of Collision Course, or climb the start of Collision Course itself (better) to the horizontal ledge at about 10m.

From the right edge of the ‘holes’ recessed there, reach up to clip the first ring bolt. Straight up past this and the second ring bolt above. Continue up until able to reach right to clip the third bolt (on Female Friends). Up to the anchors (double rings) above Collision Course.

Cops an absolute bagging in Louise's guide. Start just right of Stirling Moss. It's the bolted line, not clear how many bolts it actually has.

A completely separate route despite the name! Start right of Iron Void and up.

Short, soft and bolted - needless to say this one is popular. Start on the uphill side of the Iron Void pinnacle.

1. 20m (25) Take the RH crack through bulge, then move L after roof and up flake.

2. 20m (-) Simple crack in the middle of the face.

Start 5m R of WT. The incipient flake - take plenty of #1 RPs.

Just left of the wide left facing crack, Diet of Worms. Stick clip first bolt. Wide flaring crack (crux) then hand jam to sharp holds that lead slightly left and up, small wires available if needed. Take some slings for the bollards to the top.

Start as for QDS.

Up QDS then take small flake up L, almost reaching 'Squeakeasy'. Up then traverse R into hanging crack on bulge and up this line.

Runout.

Start as for QDS.

Climb QDS to where it joins Quisling. Step left and climb the seam to the right of Squealing aiming for the hanging nose. Gain this on its left then step right and finish straight up to mega jugs. Finish up Squealing or Squeakeasy.

This squeezed-in face was toproped then soloed by Mudie, then retrobolted by others. The bolts were then removed so it is effectively a solo. Watch out for the loose looking blocks at the top. Start 1.5m L of TSSO.

The short wall with a RB.

Start: Start just R of TJ.

Start as for Life in the Fast Lane.

Instead of traversing off left at the large pockets (as for the original route), move right a couple of moves and head up the orange face via an interesting sequence to the small roof. Bombproof gear in the pockets then a slight runout to the roof (and more gear) make this a tad exciting but generally quite safe.

A direct finish to 'Die Loaded' which is a tad serious to lead due to the runout above the top of the initial crack. Technically 25 according to the FA, however 26 based on seriousness is a more apt grade.

Start as for Die Loaded.

Climb Die Loaded to the top of the pod, then against your better judgement crimp your way directly towards the hanging seam. Finish straight up the obvious corner.

Up past a bolt.

Start: Start just R of CC.

Quite good, but the bolt is crap. Don't lead it.

The leftwards diagonal. Not well protected at the start, but a great little route.

It can also be done starting up Deep Throat.

Not very popular, but if you must do it approach by moving left from Megalomaniac next to the cliff. Do not bash in direct from the Central Gully track as this can create erosion. Start below the sickle/crack of EA. Up past BR, take the bulge on the R, then more easily.

As for M then left past two BR - middle contrived - continue to clip one more BR.

Arete left of Mari. Clip bolt from Mari then return to ledge to reach holds.

Tiny steep crack. 'Best viewed as a B2 problem - the crux being a long dynamic off mean slopes to a small hold above a roof' - Carrigan. Start just L of the arete.

"Climb the tree, and lean over to place a #3RP. Reverse to the ground and climb the arete". The tree is long gone so you'll need to preplace the RP by other means. Start at the arete just R of D.

Reachy start past 2 RBs over bulge, then trend R. Tackle the roof 2m L of C at a weakness. Start just L of C.

Crank up the line past FH to pedestal then roof, then L into shallow groove. Start 1.5m R of C.

Start on ground level 10m down R of I. Short crack past RB to ledge on I, and up I drifting R to jug on bulge. Now slightly L to join flake. L at break and then up past final RB as for GoB to rap chains.

Start 1.5m R of BA. Bulging white crack and steeply onwards until the angle eases, then traverse L to ledge on Intransience. Head L and up very faint groove over bulge into WoH. Now go diagonally L to (original:) finish up Cecilia or (better:) stay a few metres R of Cecilia past final RB, to rap chains.

Bouldery, intense climbing on underclings left of Exodus II. Start on left side of wall beneath right-trending crack weakness, or alternatively 1m right of this. Boulder up to fixed wire in roof, surmount hanging 'slab' and undercling rightwards into easier territory. Basically a 10 move boulder problem. Bring your biceps.

Well chalked line left of Copyright. Climbs like an overhung limestone power route. Boulder into the line and onwards via obvious double-undercling crux (and bolt) to a horizontal break on the left. Take a breath, then easier face climbing to the top.

Exodus 2.5 with the obvious finish - up Copyright. A brilliant undertaking in its own right, but lacking the contrived headwall finish of the original.

R to L boulder traverse

R to L traverse starting on the obvious jug pocket and mono. Finish as for start of Exodus, the high jug.

Takes the line immediately right of Exodus II and left of Copyright. Boulder start to underclings (common theme here), then left to gain base of thin crack, and up. A more sustained version of Exodus II.

Climb the faint groove past bolt (FH) to gritty, grey roof. Traverse right across this on slopers to jugs, then up final headwall. Fiddly pro.

Starts right of I'm A Mess. Up faint groove to sharp pockets (FH), then stretch right into base of flared crack weakness and follow this to chains at top. Powerful.

Starts 2m right of Tres Hard and climbs seam/crack weakness to hanging slab. Join the dots up the slab, then up easier grey tower to finish. A high side runner in Tres Hard was the only gear in the first 3/4 of the route on the first ascent. Retrobolted with Roland's permission, 3 bolts plus trad gear.

Right of On High are two large pockets on the lip of a roof. Up to pockets, then over bulge and up leftwards through more pockets to layback flake. Continue directly.

Just right of Non Stop at slight corner. Layback up vague corner then left across good holds to an obvious pocket. Reachy crux via a dubious hold, then left to the hollow jug and finish up crack weakness.

Starts 5m right of Slip Slop Slap. Stick clip 1st rusty bolt (place back up wire just above it) then boulder strenuously up through initial bulge onto face. Try not to look at the state of the 2nd bolt as you make reachy moves past it. Gain lip of roof and stretch out right into cleaner rock. Ignore the old fixed RP. Belay possible on block above.

Located on small wall above Non Stop. Easily accessible from the summit. Climbs crimpy wall past two bolts and trad placements veering left near the top past a poor pocket.

Start 7m R of W. Stick clip the bolt then up the wall.

Lean back and lock your fingers into an amazing roof crack. Swing around and up from there.

Sit start, climb up left side of the scoop and finish up as for "big dyno".

Climb Reaper to the prominent chalked jug in the middle of the diagonal on pitch 2. Step right and ooze up the unlikely seam past a FH to gain the upper traverse on Taste Sensation. Step right again and climb the excellent face above passing a second FH, and staying R of the last FH of Taste Sensation. Rejoin Taste Sensation at its final crack, to chains (33m).

From Reaper's 1st belay, head up Reaper 2nd pitch for 5m to where it curves left, then traverse 2m right to below FH. Pull over bulge and up crack to break. Traverse 5m left along break, up L to blocky flake, up to a FH, then back R to a short crack and chains (33m). Best done in 1 pitch from the ground.

Taste Sensation to the big horizontal, then near the left end of this don't go up L to the blocky flake of Taste Sensation, instead launch straight up into Grimstone's finish. Best done in 1 pitch from the ground.

Best of the lot - cheekily described as the Serpentine of Arapiles which is a bit of a stretch but it does have a lot of climbing on it. Incest into Taste Sensation Direct. 70m rope gets you to the boulder beneath Reaper.

Back at ground level, 15m R of Reaper and 2m L of the weakness of Wild Oats. Head up delightful techie seams onto slab, make sure of your pro, then slight runout leftwards to 2 prominent bolts. White marbled slab then up the burly hanging corner. From here the original stepped left to the first belay of Reaper but you can also continue at same grade up past another FH to join Taste Sensation.

Up Incest to the pair of bolts, then directly upwards past a bolt and peg to roof (shared with Wild Reaper Connection to the left). Step right and pull through bulge. Easier climbing leads to the top.

Back wall. A mini Slopin' Sleazin'? Unconventional moves up an interesting feature left of Jilted. Start as for that route to its first BR, then head straight up to 2nd BR and span left to the base of unlikely arete/groove feature. Climb this to good pocket (BR), then continue past undercling to top.

Carrigans variant. Basically a totally different route to the original. From the good crimps just after the 2nd carrot bolt cut back left diagonally up the wall to wire placements and the last bit of Not Like a Hurricane.

Moorhead had placed the first bolt but not been able to get through the next sequence. He talked Yosemite Stonemaster Mike Graham into rapping the line (which he did blindfolded!) - then he went for it on lead. The last half of the route was established onsight in an amazing effort. Micro crimping past two carrot bolts leads to the mental aspect of the route - which quite arguably is the crux. Big fall potential off virtually half height gear if you lose it at the top grade 23 slab move. Employ a good belayer.

(Potentially) unrepeated after 33+ years and with good reason.

Rusty PR, then dodgy and loose but critical undercling block (do NOT put gear behind this), a rusty BR that's too high to clip, then R into 'Windsong' and up to small roof. Then L a bit and over bulge past another BR as for Windsong's new and improved finish.

Start: Start 6m R of RLtW beneath rusty peg.

Arguably 'Arapiles' boldest route. Technically easier than RLTW but as stated within Gordy's 330 of the Best Guide "a 20 metre fall is a distinct possibility". Given that this fall will have you penduluming into the base of 'Los Endos', it's also a lot more serious than the latter. A technical face climb with the main crux well protected, but which stores a nightmare sequence of intricate footwork and a last minute slab rockover just where you don't need it (the last 3 metres). Use extreme caution.

Start: Start as for 'Windsong'.

Start as for Windsong but continue straight up instead of traversing right. Exit the Crux bulge above with small RP's for protection ( difficult to place on lead). The route then rejoins Windsong. Finish as for Breezin and Ride Like The Wind Direct Finish.

An unwitting retrobolt of the first section of GSTQ.

Start: Start as for GSTQ.

Originally established at 25 by taking a breather on the half-height ledge on the opposite side of the gully! To reach the start of the route, scramble up the wall opposite Dreadnought, to the big chockstone in the depths of the gully.

Up short corner, then to the arete past bolt, then up and left to thin crack, then through overhangs to bolt, before moving up into left-facing corner.

The original version of Last Temptation. Climb the short arete, then up to roof. Break right over the hanging slab and join Great Temptation at its redpoint crux (also the point where the ledge is nearest). Finish as for that route.

Access via the chockstone halfway up the grade 4 access wall. You can also get here from the top of Dreadnought p1. Hand traverse, then the very overhung crack.

The opposite wall is very close, so this route requires a very capable trad leader, or you might consider preplacing (easily done by leaning over from ledge then coming down the line from there). Also a good belayer is essential, and don't belay from the ground as there is no margin for excess ropestretch.

Starts on the small stance 5m up and left from the DRB above Dreadnought pitch 1. Climbs the impossible looking overhung face to gain the crack weakness and hanging corner 3m right of Great Temptation. Extremely hard dynamic start past a bolt leads to pockets up and right, then traverse back left into hanging corner to a rest. Onwards up the fantastic corner to top.

Line of FHs 2 metres left of Dreadnought p1, finishing by veering right to join that pitch.

Start on the L of DV then cross it and finish on its right.

Start as for Dreadnought Variant but then stretch right to jugs, bolt and unique pillar pinch, finishing up and slightly left via a thin crux section. Powerful.

Start 1m left of No Exit and boulder leftwards into line (FH). Hard moves lead up, then back right into No Exit. Finish as for that route.

Start 10m R of Dreadnought below bottomless crack.

1. 15m (25) Extremely bouldery face leads to crack finish. Beware of the name!

2. 30m (23) Sensational. Thin corner, L on slab, up thin crack, then diagonally L. Rap off the top of Dreadnought p2.

Start 2m R of NE. Unattractive crimps past 2 bolts to jug, then face

The shenanigans on the first ascent suggest they were certainly consuming something forbidden...

Start: Start 2m L of Semi-detached.

1. 25m (23) Up wall, traverse right to gain diagonal flake sytem and follow this to ledge. There is protection but it won't stop a groundfall from the crux.

2. 20m (26) Scary face with fragile rock to crux past 2 bolts. Apparently you need double thumb sprags.

The roof jam crack.

Start under the small lump of rock with a flat top, up and R from the start of Sandpiper.

Plenty of angst here. Start 10m up L from Trench Warfare.