Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Popularité | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fermé Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag | |||||
29 | ★★★ Steps Ahead
Sustained crimpiness up microscopic edges. Fixed hangers up beautiful wall 3m R of Little Thor. Tara Sutherland's Jan '98 ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 29, followed shortly after by Megan Osborne. FA: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1984 | 18m, 4 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae The Flight Deck | |||||
30 | ★ Afterburner
Climb all of 'Jet Lag' (via the original direct start) then launch onwards into a final boulder problem above the chains. Start: Start as for JL. FA: Ingvar Lidman | 25m, 7 | |||
29 | ★★ Jet Lag
Start: Start left of the big corner of "Orestes", about 4m Left of It'll Never Fly. FA: Geoff Weigand (Kim Carrigan climbed the first 8m (grade ~27) as the direct start to Have a Good Flight), 1984 | 18m, 8 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side | |||||
30 | ★★ Mr Natural
Looks like 36! Originally led on preplaced gear, repeated placing the gear by Gareth Llewellin - a pretty bold lead. Start a short way uphill from the back of the D Minor pinnacle, and just downhill from the boulder choke. Glassy bulging seam. Rack: Mostly #1 RPs. FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1995 | 12m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully | |||||
29 R | ★★ The Last Temptation
Up EotE to bolt then up bulging line between EotE and GT to join Intergalactic Space Control near the top. Watch your back. FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1996 | 25m, 1 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fermé Fang Buttress | |||||
29 | ★★ Wagalak
There's 1 or 2 old bolt holes 1 to 2m to the right dating from an unknown attempt on this great nose of rock. Start 4m L of 'Mantis'. It's almost a sport route but you need a few med. cams before the bolts. FA: Dave Jones, 2005 | 17m, 3 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall | |||||
V8 | ★★ Trackside traverse
Sit start just left of arete then traverse R) across face via some shouldery moves. | ||||
V8 | ★★ Traverse and Fly
Trackside Traverse to finish up ‘10’s Dyno (right arete out). | 4m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Oops boulder | |||||
30 | Bliss
Two carrot bolts protect the face. Would be an amazing boulder/solo, but has not been done yet. | ||||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Krondorff Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Nickotine
Very Steep Arete at far L | 5m | |||
V8 | ★★ 10
Sit start. Opposing side-pulls through middle of the roof | ||||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Denim Wall | |||||
29 | Berlin Calling
FFA: Nathan Hoette, 2004 | 20m | |||
29 | ★ Balance of Power
Bolts are mostly rusty (still the case as at Apr 2023) and should not be trusted. Start 6-8m R of LC. Very bouldery past the first FH then continuous past 4 more FHs, then finish off to the right where Concise Exercise finishes. Lower off. FA: "Fat Nick" Sutter, 1993 | 18m, 5 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Flinders Lane Area | |||||
29 | Aristocracy
| 20m, 6 | |||
30 | ★ Stop-Motion
Direct start to Moving Pictures past a rusty bolt or two. FA: Dave Jones | 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||
30 | The Mule
Start up Very Anxious then before joining Anxiety Neurosis move L under the roof and blast through the roof and up the overhanging wall above staying between Kama Sutra and AN. Finish at AN p1 loweroffs or continue up any pitch above to the summit. FA early noughties IIRC ... clarification welcome. FA: Dave Jones | 25m, 4 | |||
30 | ★★ Leaps and Bounds
| 35m | |||
30 | ★ Leaps
Bolted by Kimbo decades ago, this long-standing problem succumbed to the short strong bloke with dreads. Start as for Anxiety Neurosis and boulder direct through the bulge to the start of Bounds and finish up it or Anticipation. FA: Davey Jones, 1998 | 10m, 3 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | |||||
29 | ★★★ Prowling for Leftovers
FFA: Malcolm Matheson | 27m, 8 | |||
30 | ★★ Expired
Link Required into Requited. FA: Nathan Hoette | 30m, 5 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Crankshaft Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★ Crankpression
The line a few people have claimed as Vague Corner, though almost completely independent and also very good. Start low on the prow right of Crankshaft crack and compress straight up using slopers either side. No use of the crack itself. | ||||
V8 | ★★ Vague Corner
Just right of 'Crankshaft' crack without using that line at any stage. Same first couple of moves as Crankpression to obvious RH sloper but then stay in the line of the corner to finish. Devious and sharp. | ||||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Castle Crag | |||||
29 | ★★ The Overtaker
Originally climbed at 31, but subsequent ascents have used the larger holds just L of the old crux. Start: Boulder start through underclings left of The Undertaker to jug, then out to crimps out left and up, briefly into Siva Direct. Trend right up to a hard boulder problem finish (direct via the pinch). A left hand sequence is also possible. FA: Nick Sutter, 2002 | 18m | |||
29 | ★★ L'inconscience Tranquil
After a few metres, break diagonally R and then power up past bolts to the lower-off L of Procol. Start: As for 'Warmonger'. FA: Jean-Minh Trinh-Thieu, 1994 | 12m, 3 | |||
30 | ★★ Nati Dread
Power through the roof to the lip. The section after the roof was originally done by deviating R into the Low Down, then doing it's crux before continuing straight up. Has since been straightened out. Start: R of Procol is a line of bolts through the ceiling. FA: Andy Pollit, 1990 | 30m, 5 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Grotto Wall Area The Bat Cave | |||||
30 | ★★ Living With a Hernia
Awesome power route taking the main line through the cave. "The best power route in Australia" (Nathan Hoette). FA: Douglas Hockly, 2003 | 10m, 3 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | |||||
30 | ★★★ Punky Brewster
The master of combinations and permutations digs up another classic. This one links the "easy" bits of the two original routes. Start as for Punks in the Gym, finish as for Pretty in Punk. FA: Nathan Hoette | 25m | |||
30 | ★★★ Ethiopia
The prime line hereabouts. All the hard bit of India then step L and up the middle of the steep wall through the top roof to lower offs. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 30m, 3 | |||
30 | Wisdom of Body
Not his finest addition. Brutally hard undercling moves and very, very rarely repeated. Start as for Nose Job then bust left. FA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1985 | 15m | |||
29 | ★★★ Break & Enter
Up The Great Escape to half height, then R and up to lower offs. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2002 | 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | |||||
29 | ★★★ Treat 'em Mean, Keep 'em Keen
Originally bolted by Chris Shepherd, this link up was pointed out to Zac by Ingvar Lidman who promptly bagged the first ascent. Originally a sandbag at 29 ("more like 30 or 31," Zac) apparently a previously unused hold and an easier sequence has been found that makes it "only" 29. Start up Masada, before veering L past a couple of bolts and some hard compression moves (crux) at half height. to the Judgement Day traverse. Finish through crux of Give Me Convenience or Give Me Death. FA: Zac Vertrees | 30m, 4 | |||
29 | ★★★ Masada
Once considered the hardest route in the country when introduced by Carrigan as Australia's first grade 30. Now considered a tad easier by modern standards. Start as for 'Trojan' and at its crux move left across the corner and onto the exposed arete. Take some deep breaths then get fired up for an intensely fingery experience above the flared layback, not to mention some acute footwork. At the top of the corner, make a move left to a jug and gain the finishing crack. A final tricky exit leads to the belay. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 28m, 1 | |||
29 | Muchada
The direct finish to 'Masada'. Instead of branching out left at the top of the groove, continue straight up through another boulder problem (as if the original crux wasn't enough!) FA: Nick White, 2000 | 25m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face | |||||
29 | ★ RSI
The finger shredding line starting just left of the start to 'Mind Arthritis', then taking the very bouldery wall above it. 2 hard 2-move boulder problems with a virtual sit down rest between them mars a route with one of the best positions at Arapiles. FA: Kim Carrigan, 2000 | 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | |||||
29 | ★★ Heatmiser
Up Shadows and Light to its second bolt. Step right to the pointy jug, then straight up (dyno) into Elongate. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 3 Sept 2022 | 15m, 4 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully | |||||
29 | Straight Up the Chook
Link Yesterday Direct into Use No Chooks. FFA: Chris Abernethy | 20m, 5 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Boulders Around the World Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★ The Final Chapter
Takes low line through roof that entrenched avoids via pinches. | ||||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Boulders Finalgon Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★ Finalgon Centre Direct
Great sit start half way across Finalgon and direct through underclings and small crimp to top out in same line. | ||||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces The Watchtower | |||||
28/29 | Unknown
The tough-looking bulge just left of Pumping, to lower-offs. Name TBC. FA: Ingvar Lidman | 12m, 5 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Tjuringa Wall | |||||
28/29 | ★★ Hypochondria
start 7m right of Cadence. Up to the carrot, then trend right to join Stigmatised. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 4 Juil 2021 | 15m, 1 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | |||||
29 | ★★ Kinky Leopard
Start as for Slinkin' Leopard, then head left after the crux "drive by" through punchy boulder (trad) then finish up Fortress. FA: Lee Cossey, 2015 | 20m, 3 | |||
29 | ★★ Gridlock
Straightens out Slinkin'. Start: Start as for Slinkin' but go direct and up to the end of the L-wards traverse FA: Dave Jones, 1998 | 15m, 3 | |||
30 | ★ Chuckles Bolty
The "crazy linkup" of Lord of the Rings into Slinkin' Leopard. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004 | ||||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Mysteries Wall | |||||
29 | Honey Pot
A bolted boulder problem. The holds are generally good, but seeing as they are all vertical - guess what that means for the feet? 'Dynamic' and very powerful. FA: Nathan Hoette | 5m | |||
29 | ★★ Pooh Connection
Climbs the direct start to Pooh Sticks and links that route into Anus Horribilus. Despite being slightly contrived, a brilliant conception. Two distinct halves offering Blue Mountains like crimping to start, followed by gritty slopers. The original start steps off the pillar at the 2nd bolt (left hand in pocket), and is a couple of grades easier. Toby Pola - pulling on above the direct start... but below the original start! FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004 | 25m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group High Dive Gully | |||||
29 | ★★★ You're Terminated
Climb "High Dive" until its crux and continue up underside of arete past 2 bolts to join "Power Corruption and Lies" FA: Geoff Weigand, 1989 | 20m, 2 | |||
29 | ★★ Terminated Directly
You're Terminated Direct. Open Project. Direct start possible (will require a bolt) up the blunt arete between Dark Matter and A Taste of Honey. Direct finish possible straight over bulge after 2nd bolt on You're Terminated. Would make the line completely independent of Lats in the Belfry. | 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Mitre Rock South Mitre | |||||
29 | ★ Delusions of Grandeur
Start 5m right of Seamy Side. Follow black streak up thin crack through bulges. When crack ends at around the 10m mark, step left and continue up clean headwall to top. Descend off Seamy Side anchors. FFA: Joel Wilson, 26 Juin 2020 | ||||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Fermé Campground Boulders | |||||
V8 | Butt Eater
Link up of 'Butt Gravity' into Race Eater Variant. FA: Tilly Parkins?, 2000 | ||||
V8 | ★★★ Worm Saloon
This and the next 4 problems are located on the raised ledge of the 'Butthole Surfer' Cave, within view of 'Gay Hip Flexor' down and to the left. FA: Will Detmold, 2000 | ||||
V8 | ★★ Gourmet Cat
A gourmet for sure, starts on an obvious rail, finishes on top. two small crimps lead up the center of the face, and a big move to the jug/lip. simple and sweet FA: Klem Loskot, 1999 | 3m | |||
V8 | ★★★ Da-Lai-Lahmung
Beta dependant. Standing start. Up to poor pocket, then big move up to large pocket. Re-arrange the hands, then out right to the intermediate edge, then big span (or trickery) out to the jug on the arete. Match this and motor up on more jugs to top-out. FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999 | ||||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Titanic Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★ Overboard
Starts as 'S.O.S.' but climbs straight up. | ||||
V8 | Problem#1
| ||||
V8 | Problem#7
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Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mount Zero Pangaea Walls | |||||
29 | ★★ Rhythmic Pumper
Roof left of "Sport Crack". FA: Phil Neville, 2011 | 10m, 5 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Flat Rock West Flank | |||||
29 | ★★★ City of Peace
The City of Peace - aka Nagasaki. 7 years in the making, fires, surgeries, viruses, broken bones, Covid and now it’s free. The spectacular route up the main turret in the middle of the big Orange cave. FA: Matt Brooks Équip.: Matt Brooks, 2013 | 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Ground Control Caves Middle Cave | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Rota-Loo
Middle Cave. Traverse from the LH corner (sit-start using underclings). Hard move into the traverse, across and into 'Lonely Heart Club' via a classic drop-down move, finishing as for that problem. | ||||
V8 | ★★ Ground Control to Major Tom
Middle Cave FA: Klem Loskot, 1999 | ||||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Glass Half MT Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★ Bad Moon Rising
Starts around 4m left of GHMT. Was climbed as a huge dyno. Has also been climbed via some pretty poor intermediate slopers, which most consider to be v6. | 4m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Wiggly Boulder | |||||
V8 | Shattered Arete
Sit Start under the arete and punch straight up the nose on hard moves. | ||||
V8 | Regicide
| ||||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Amazing Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★ Brama Sutra
Takes the seam from a sit-start right of 'Sick Nutter' and just left of 'The V2 Sit' problem. FA: Julian Saunders | 4m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Love Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★★ To Hate To Love
The burly twin of "Ministry of Love". Sit start on the off angle slopey rail and head left to the slot and jug.Traverse the overhang right on pockets to a sloper and edges and a tricky top out. | 6m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Jungle Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★ Conga Fury
The left arete starting with a RH pinch and low LH on the arete. Top out. Compression problem. | 3m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Paul's Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Left El Westwood
FA: Paul Westwood, 2000 | ||||
V8 | ★ Direct El Westwood
| ||||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Orphan Boulders | |||||
V8 | ★★★ The Oyster
| 4m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - North | |||||
29 | ★ Black Adder
A beautiful natural line but unpopular due to its rusting bolts and bizarre traversing. Start at the first anchor of Sordid Orchids, on the guano-stained ledge. Drop down, traverse 4m right and go up flake to roof. Right below roof for 5m and over lip (crux). Traverse 5m right to finish beside Clean Sweep. Approx 5 bolts? FA: Pete Cresswell & Andy Pollitt, 1990 | 40m | |||
29 | Quetzalcoatl (project - open)
Start at a hanging belay in Lawrence of Arabia, about 15m R of the Seventh Pillar bolt ladder. Use fixed rope on Feather Boa to access.
FA: Equipped Dave Jones, 2000 | 54m, 2 | |||
29 | ★★★ Feather Boa
The magical long sustained main pitch uninterrupted by rests is something special, even by Taipan's lofty standards. After some high profile spankings it seems to be settling in as being about a grade harder (not a grade easier!) than Serpentine, so Dave's original grade of 28 has been bumped up to a solid 29...and may not stop there! Start in Lawrence of Arabia, about 6-8m R of Quetzalcoatl and 5-6m L of Scud Buster. It's best to fix a rope 8m to the ground so you can belay from the ground and jug/batman to start.
FA: Dave Jones, 1998 | 61m, 3 | |||
29 | ★★ Kundalini
Starts as for Feather Boa until a few metres below the main roof, then go right through the roof and up the headwall for a few more metres to an anchor in the middle of nowhere where the holds run out. FA: Jai Critchley, 2015 | 40m | |||
29 | ★★★ Angst
Makes Rage an independent line to the top, providing another awesome pitch up the most majestic part of Taipan. Start as for Serpentine pitch 2. Follow Rage for 5 bolts then head left to wide runnel, follow right side of runnel to just below roof, span left across runnel, then up to roof. Follow right side of next runnel to top. Another variant has been bolted (see 41b in topo) which moves left after only 1 or 2 bolts of Rage and up the faint arete to join into Angst. FFA: adam demmert, 2011 | 40m, 9 | |||
29 | ★★★ Rage
A 15m variant to the first part of the second pitch of Serpentine. Significantly harder than Serpentine. Pull through initial roof on Serpentine p2 then L via very thin moves to red jug on beautiful sheer hanging red face. Trend back R past 3rd bolt and up subtle arete. When the arete finishes trend L via more hard moves past 5th bolt, to rejoin Serpentine at the horizontal break. FA: Andy Pollitt, 1992 | 35m, 7 | |||
29 | ★★★ Serpentine
This famous line was the first route on the wall which cried out for the mythical fourth star. Now re-bolted by HB with 75mm ball head expansions (the original laser-cut fixed hangers remain), HB also put in an anchor 1.5m to the right (you still have to top out). PLEASE DON'T PISS ON THE BELAY LEDGE (bring a pee bottle for long belay sessions). Aiming left or outwards is NOT Ok, you WILL be pissing on other pitches and yes they do get climbed. Start on the cairn on the raised ledge, directly below the obvious huge arete of 'Naja'. FA: Malcolm Matheson & Steve Monks, 1988 FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 1988 | 75m, 2, 11 | |||
30 | ★★★ Naja
After the long years of Steve and others being spat off before Dave cleaned it up, it's apt that this genus includes the Spitting Cobra! The strongest line on all Taipan, this is the left-facing arete bounding the right side of the massive scooped out area right of Serpentine. It is more closely bolted than most other Taipan routes, although they're getting a bit the worse for wear. The whole thing can be worked from the ground using a 70m rope (but only just!). Start as for Serpentine.
FA: Equipped Steve Monksish? & sent by Dave Jones, 1990 | 45m, 2, 8 | |||
29 | ★★★ Sneaky Nether
Start as for Sneaky Snake but finish after "only" 35m, at the Nether anchor. Some tricky rope management is needed, with some tricky sideways runouts at the grade, but worth it. FA: Lee Cossey | 35m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - South | |||||
30 | ★★★ Sheek Naja Ket
Established after a tip-off from Jake the snake Bresnehan. "Named in honour of a great man, and possibly the best climb on the wall". Given 31 originally but has quickly been knocked down a grade. Start as for Mr J. Up most of Mr J p1 then, instead of going diagonally left past the last bolt to the cave, continue directly up. The crimpy orange wall has 4 more bolts and takes you about 4m R of Mr J p2, right to the top. A 70m rope can lower off the last bolt to the ledge - just! It's only a sport route if, like most grade 30 climbers, you skip the trad gear on Mr J. FA: Ben Cossey & Al Pryce, 2008 | 38m, 11 | |||
30 | ★★ Tourniquet
FA: Dave Jones (p1p2 98), 1997 | 40m, 2, 8 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Spurt Wall | |||||
30 | Cripple Nipple
Another absorbing steep wall on excellent rock. Julian Saunders attempted this route direct with a huge sideways dyno (thus removing his nipples!). Eventually Nathan solved the climb by bailing around this dyno crux by a big traverse right. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2002 | 17m, 8 | |||
29 | ★★ Tyranny
Gordy's finest hour! He never made it to the top - he lowered from the fourth bolt and recorded it anyway, and now it's one of the most popular routes around at this grade. FA: Gordon Poultney, 1998 | 12m, 4 | |||
30/31 | ★★★ Lifestyling
Sustained slopy masterpiece that some reckon is the best thing on Spurt. It climbs a blazingly direct line of pockets and crimps. Typical Julian bullshit runouts to sketchy clips with the technical crux several metres above a bolt. 6 bolts. FA: Julian Saunders, 2000 | 20m, 6 | |||
29 | ★★ Fabio's Route
An old Martin Lama project that was cruelly stolen by a visiting Brit (and then named after Martin's flowing locks!). FA: nic sellars | 15m, 6 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Afterglow Wall | |||||
29 | ★★★ Chicane
FA: Julian Saunders, 2000 | 20m, 7 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Afterglow Boulders | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Crisco Love Party
Start on good holds, climb right into hueco and continue up to round pocket. Top out over lip | ||||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Between the Sheeps | |||||
V8 | Bonsai
Start left of Kamikaze and head left. | ||||
V8 | ★★ Rat Salad
Sit start on edges, bust out the roof via shouldery moves and finish up right. Either downclimb or shuffle along the shelf to top out. FA: Callum Mather | 4m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Wildsides | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Sweet Sensation
As for 'The Beginnings...' then break right and up via extreme undercling move to the slopey break. FA: Klem Loskot, 2000 | ||||
V8 | Click
Low sit-start and up via a big move leftwards. Possibly lost some holds since the first ascent. Start: 3rd climbing cave along from the 'Sweet Sensation' area. FA: Klem Loskot, 2000 | ||||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre The Plaza Strip | |||||
29 | ★★★ Rodeo Drive
FA: Josh Grose, 2012 | 20m, 8 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Citadel | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Ammagamma Standing Start
The original problem from a standing start - to mantle the finish. FA: Dave Jones, 2000 | ||||
V8 | ★★ Penguin Biceps
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Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Windjammer Wall | |||||
29 | ★★ Salty ol Buoy
Start just right of 'Abandon Ship' and head directly up the line of bolts. Some bouldery cruxes down low with an easy top out. Grade is a suggestion and may go up or down. Rebolted 2017 FA: Equipped by Steve Monks, 1994 FFA: Byam K, 7 Fév 2021 | 20m, 4 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Wall of Fools | |||||
29 | ★★ Innocent Fool
A ridiculously thin looking black streak. Start: Start beneath the widest black streak on the wall, about 20m L of the arch, and a few metres R of where the raised ledge peters out. FA: Steve Monks, 1986 | 25m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Amnesty Gun Buttress Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★ Bismarck
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Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Amnesty Upper Gun Buttress | |||||
V8 | ★ Doctors Orders
Only climbs on RHS of big seam. FA: Michael Tonon, 3 Août 2018 | 4m | |||
V8 | ★★ Prescribed Happiness
Stand start in the break, follow seam up and left to high top out. FA: Michael Tonon, 3 Août 2018 | 6m | |||
V8 | ★★★ Thoughts Of A Dying Athiest
FA: Pat Reynolds | 6m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Zoolander Area | |||||
V8 | Hansel
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V8 | Magnum
Horrible landing. |