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C: Poison Dwarf

  • Contexte de la cotation : FR
  • Photos : 11
  • Ascensions : 349
16

Saison

J
F
M
A.
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

The boulder after A, with 'Girl on our mind' being the first problem on the left of it if coming from camp Sallie.

Limit. de l'accès hérité de Rocklands

(Leaving this here as its inherited by child locations - please take the time to take pictures of the boulders you visit and post them under the relavent locations so that we can start populating more topos 🙂).

As of 2014, no climbing is allowed in Rocklands without a valid climbing permit. Land owners often conduct inspections in the climbing areas and anyone found without a permit will be asked to leave the climbing area. Permits can be obtained online - www.quicket.co.za - or purchased at CapeNature's Kliphuis campsite office; De Pakhuys campsite office; or Traveller's Rest farmstall and restaurant.

Éthique hérité de Rocklands

  1. Bury your faeces and carry out your toilet paper. If the ground is too hard to bury your faeces, please carry it out with you and dispose of it in the campsite bins. Poop bags are available for free at De Pakhys. (A special note about this: Tea Garden has been closed primarily due to this problem. Animals such as baboons may eat human faeces and could contract diseases such as Tuberculosis and hepatitis, which could prove detrimental to the population)

  2. Do not litter – carry everything you bring in with you back out with you and dispose of your litter in the bins at the campsite.

  3. Stick to the allocated paths marked by cairns and as illustrated in the guidebook. Diverting from these paths causes far more erosion than is necessary and may cause the extinction of certain sensitive plants in the area.

  4. No graffiti on rock surfaces. (Black Shadow boulder has been closed to climbing due to graffiti)

  5. No pof is allowed in Rocklands. The resin damages the rock surfaces and this damage is irreversible.

The complete disrespect of boulderers for the land on which they climb is a very serious and has become a very real threat to bouldering in Rocklands.

Rocklands bouldering is in peril. Rocklands does not belong to the climbers.

Our access is not a right, it’s a privilege and our treatment of the land is the difference between us being allowed to climb in Rocklands and us being banned from climbing in Rocklands altogether.

Irresponsible boulderers have caused this problem and boulderers are the only ones who can fix it.

Please respect the land you climb on in South Africa and adhere to the above mentioned rules. Your privilege to climb in Rocklands depends on it.

Voies

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Cotation Voie

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Sit-start with round hold, climb left through the roof and top-out.

Video

Video (feet first)

FA: Flo Grimus, 2005

Climb Poison Dwarf but from the undercling throw out right to sidepull / pinch then move out to lip and climb up.

Video

FA: Andreas Mölk, 2005

Start as Poison Dwarf but climb straight out using gastons.

Start as Poison Dwarf but traverse right and finish as Horny Devil.

Sit-start with small holds, move up to good holds then to sloper with left hand and finish up on jugs.

Sit-start in a small cave, traverse left to crimps then move up right to shelf and climb up

Video

FA: Klem Loskot, 2005

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Sit-start as for Modell Robber but climb out left through the small roof and finish up left of the arete. "Best of its grade in Rocklands"

Originally graded 6b+. 8a.nu suggests that it might be harder.

Video

Video

FA: Klem Loskot, 2005

Climb Girl on Our Mind but move left and climb up right of crack

FA: Scott Noy, 2006

Climb Girl on Our Mind but throw out right to crimp and top-out.

Video

Starts as Girl on our mind but go straight up to the right

FA: Hans-Christian Helltegen, 2022

Start as Girl on Our Mind but climb up right via the groove.

FA: Klem Loskot, 2005

Sit-start with jugs and climb up the arete.

6B+ originally but majority of ascents on 8a.nu suggest 6c.

Video

FA: Klem Loskot, 2005

Start as Gamelan but move left and climb the vertical wall.

Video

FA: Michael Janata, 2007

Sit-start with large rail and climb up the face.

Video

FA: Klem Loskot, 2005

Climb Coal Chamber but finish slightly left.

Video

Low right sit start to Coal Chamber

Le saviez-vous ?

Saviez-vous que vous pouvez créer un compte pour enregistrer, suivre et partager vos ascensions ? Des milliers de grimpeurs le font déjà.

Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Auteur·e·s: Tony Lourens

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9780796123541

A definitive guidebook covering all the sport climbing found throughout the whole of the Cederberg mountain range, describing 436 sport routes across a wide range of grades from F4b to F9a.

Logements à proximité plus Cacher

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