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The Library Tous Escalade sportive 16 voies en paroi

  • Contexte de la cotation : SA
  • Ascensions : 160
16
SA
101315171921

Saison

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Description

Follow Mayhem directions to the skull cairn near the wooden deck. There’s an approach gully about 80m N of the deck, descending to the N. Near the bottom of the gully is a small slot/cave that leads one through to the higher tier along the main wall known as the Corruption sector. This is the start of 'The Raven'. 'Two Towers'is about 3m down left. Another approach is to go down the vehicle track into the valley. Just after the gate follow cairns down and R to a flat area in front of the main wall. Routes are listed from left to right, first UP the gully (facing west) then down the gully facing east

Limit. de l'accès hérité de The Mayhem Crags

Climbing Permits Wonderland. The Wonderland crags are spread over multiple private land parcels including MCSA, Mahem and Tranquilitas. The Mountain Club of South Africa has negotiated for all climbers to have access to these properties via a climbing permit. Permits will be offered at discounted rates to members of the MCSA or guests at Tranquilitas/Mayhem. Following are the permit types and costs:

Day permits R60. Day permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas members R30

Weekend permits R100. Weekend permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas members R50

Month permits R600. Month permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas R300

Annual permits R1600. Annual permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas R1200

By purchasing a permit you agree to the Conditions & Waiver Free parking to permit holders at Tranquilitas reception only and in demarcated spaces. Permits will be mandatory and people found without one will be treated as trespassers. Permits can be purchased from Tranquilitas reception via SnapScan or Zapper. For annual permits e-mail book@tranquilitas.com.

Orubeni farm has graciously granted access on the basis that climbers absolutely stick to the following rules: - ONLY WALK IN BY THE APPROVED ROUTE - KEEP DOGS ON A LEAD AS THERE ARE ANIMALS ON THE FARM - NO FIRES EVER - NO LITTER, INCLUDING CIGARETTE BUTTS AND TOILET PAPER - DO NOT WALK IN VIEW OF THE FARMHOUSE – DO NOT WALK OUT AFTER DARK…YOU MAY BE CONFUSED FOR A THIEF AND SHOT (THIS IS A WORKING FARM)

Approche

The approach gully is about 100m North of the wooden deck (left from shady parking) and descends to the North. The Library covers both sides of the straight split you'll walk into. Another approach to the Library is to go down the vehicle track into the valley further north past Touching the Void. From the top, just after the gate follow cairns down and right to a flat area in front of the main wall.

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Library True Right Retourner aux contenus

Bottom of Gully, routes from left to right.

2
12 ★ Two Towers Sportive 10

At the bottom of the gully is a free-standing tower. This mini alpine route starts in the slot to the right past a tree. Ubolts lead rightwards up the stepped slab to anchors on the higher summit. Some closely spaced bolts protect each step.

FA: Clive Curson & Don Poe, 23 Mars 2017

3
22 ★★ Mask of the Red Death Sportive 8

Hard-looking direct route through a flat face. Starting up the cave slot (as for 'The Raven') gain the face above. Follow the cracks and grooves to anchors. May be 21 for the tall.

FA: Clive Curson & Don Poe, 23 Mars 2017

4
17 ★★ The Raven Sportive 9

Tagged. Great bolt-protected traddy climbing, with the same start as the MOTRD. After clipping the second bolt, move 3m right to the jam crack passing an intermediate U-bolt. One way to do this is to stand on the ledge, then undercling the roof! Jam to the summit.

FA: Clive Curson & Don Poe, 23 Mars 2017

5
17 ★★ The Hobbit Sportive 7

Shorter than the 'The Raven' but has all the excellent hand jamming. Start off the top of a rock 4m right of 'The Raven', about halfway down the gully. Pull directly up into 'The Raven' jam crack.

FA: Clive Curson & Don Poe, 23 Mars 2017

6
16 ★ MORFYDD Sportive 7

6m right of 'The Raven'. Start at a blankish face below a groove 4m up. Climb past the groove to anchors. Easier if you are tall.

FA: Clive Curson, Adelle McCann & Paddy McCann, Oct. 2017

7
14 Pigs in Heaven Sportive 5

9m right of 'The Raven' at the rock step (same as 'Poisonwood Bible'). Climb up and diagonally left to anchors.

FA: Clive Curson, Oct. 2017

8
10 Poinsonwood Bible - CLOSED Sportive 6

(Closed) 9m right of 'The Raven', goes straight up. Now closed pending safety assessment – loose blocks.

FA: Clive Curson, Oct. 2017

Library True Left Retourner aux contenus

10
15 Yellowwood Sportive 7

Don’t damage it! Opposite 'Poisonwood Bible' at the rock step (facing E) climb the break to a steep finish.

FA: Clive Curson, Dawie Maree & Heylene Maree, Oct. 2017

11
★★ Girl Up Sportive 7

Opposite 'The Hobbit' start is a beautiful layback crack which widens slightly at half height.

Équip.: Clive Curson

FA: Catherine Honegger

12
17 ★★ Phoebe's Behind Sportive 8

A short diagonal hand/fist crack starts this climb, 2m down from 'The RAven'(opposite wall). Continue up the scruffy break to anchors on the right.

Équip.: Clive Curson

13
17 ★★ Catcher in The Rye Sportive 10

Brilliant! 3m left of 'The BFG'. Climb the crack that starts 1.5m up.

Équip.: Clive Curson

FA: Alex Bester, Oct. 2016

14
17 ★★ The BFG Sportive 8

The left of 2 bottomless parallel cracks in the center of the face. Start 5m up the gully from 'The Lorax'.

Équip.: Clive Curson

FA: Ebert Nel, Oct. 2016

15
17 ★ Dr Seuss Sportive 8

Easier start to 'The Lorax' crack. Climb the right crack starting 4m up the gully from 'The Lorax'.

FA: Clive Curson & Dawie Maree, Oct. 2017

16
18 ★★ The Lorax Sportive 9

Tagged. Original start. Climbs into the right crack starting 2m right of a small tree under the crack.

Équip.: Clive Curson

FA: Ebert Nel, Oct. 2016

17
20 ★★ Barrier Of Spears Sportive 10

Has a left slanting crack in the upper section. Start directly under the crack, 4m right of 'The Lorax' tag. An optional extension goes 2-3m up to a 2nd set of anchors on the right.

FA: Clive Curson & Don Poe, Fév 2017

18
20 ★★★ Touching the Void Sportive 9

Starting 6 -7m right of 'The Lorax', climb past the overlap into a groove. Figure out which is the easier finish for you.

FA: Clive Curson & Don Poe, Fév 2017

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20 ★★★ Touching the Void

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