Aide

Contrafort de Rumbau

  • Contexte de la cotation : FR
  • Photos : 3
  • Ascensions : 382

Saison

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F
M
A.
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J
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S
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D

Description

The main and mega cliff of the area, an awesomely steep barrel-shaped wall.Winter crag as it is sunny from the morning until almost the end of the day.

Approche

First one need to arrive in a hotel called Hotel Restaurant Can Boix De Peramola. Just before the entrance of the hotel, there is a dirty road on the right. Take this road for a bit more of 1km and you will see a small path to go up to the crag on your left. You can also see the crag on your left.The access by walk is 5 min.

Voies

Ajouter une(des) voie(s) Ajouter un topo Réorganiser Éditer en masse Cotations converties
Cotation Voie

L1: 6c, L2: 6a+

Équip.: Dani Andrada

FFA: Domen Škofic, 2 Jan 2015

FA: Adam Ondra, 10 Fév 2017

1 7c
2 8b+

Monique Forestier's 2016 ascent of this route was the first Australian female ascent of a grade 8c+/34.

La Dura Dura means 'The Hard Hard', named as such because it was then regarded as one of the hardest rock climb in the world by non other that Chris Sharma .

Chris tried the routes for years, describing it as "horrifyingly" difficult and perhaps "not for me", until he invited Adam to try. They figured new beta together and the route was finally freed by Adam Ondra in February 2013, the second 9b+ at the time (after Change 9b+ in Flatanger, also freed by Ondra)

Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra regard it as being slightly harder than Change. No other climber has managed to repeat it yet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1P97VVt6_k

Ascents
:
  • Adam Ondra - 7 Feb 2013
  • Chris Sharma - 23 March 2013

FA: Adam Ondra

Équip.: Chris Sharma, 2009

FFA: Adam Ondra, 2013

Équip.: Dani Andrada

FA: Ramon Julian, 2010

Different start than Chaxi Raxi.

FFA: Chris Sharma, 2011

Équip.: Chris Sharma

FFA: Adam Ondra, 2011

Monique Forestier's 2012 ascent of this route was the first Australian female ascent of a grade 8c/33.

Équip.: Chris Sharma, 2009

FFA: Sam Elias, 2014

Équip.: Sam Elias & Walker Emerson, 2014

To the first anchors

Pitch one of La Marroncita

7a first pitch, 8b second.

Joe Blau into Marroncita Extension

A connection of "Joe Blau" and "Papichulo".

FA: Patxi Usobiaga, Mars 2017

A resistance 50m route with limited rests, perfect rock and a sketchy slab finish.

Ascents

  • Chris Sharma - 31 May 2008
  • Adam Ondra - 24 Feb 2009
  • Ramón Julián Puigblanque
  • Sachi Amma
  • Cédric Lachat
  • Jakob Schubert
  • Domen Škofic
  • Magnus Midtbø
  • Mateusz Haladaj
  • Jonathan Siegrist
  • Daniel Woods
  • Matty Hong
  • Piotr Schab
  • Said Belhaj
  • Klemen Bečan
  • Patxi Usobiaga
  • Jon Cardwell
  • Felipe Camargo
  • Margo Hayes - 21 Mar 2019 - First Female ascent

FFA: Chris Sharma

Équip.: Chris Sharma

FA: Chris Sharma, 2008

This route connects Pachamama 9a+ and Papichulo 9a+ and was described by Adam Ondra as demanding "incredible power endurance without any rest."

Initially this connection seemed utterly extreme - perhaps even 9b+ like neighbouring Dura Dura freed by Ondra in 2013 - but was then rendered more "humane" when Ondra discovered a new sequence to get across the traverse. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVlGxVE_0uc

Ascents
:
  • Adam Ondra - 8 Feb 2017
  • Seb Bouin - 16 April 2019

FA: Adam Ondra, 8 Fév 2017

Équip.: Chris Sharma

FA: Chris Sharma, 2009

Équip.: Joe Kinder

FA: Klemen Bečan, 1 Mars 2016

The route has a first part made of 25 very sustained movements graded 9a+, followed by a second 8c part with 12 movements including a dyno.

A knee bar has been found in the first crux (the sequence was downgraded from 8a to 7c+), however a hold has broken higher up on the dyno which makes it significantly harder to throw. All in all the route is still considered 9b

Ascents

  • Chris Scharma - 7 May 2011
  • Adam Ondra
  • Jakob Schubert
  • Sachi Amma
  • Piotr Schab

FA: Chris Sharma

FFA: Chris Sharma, 2011

Équip.: Chris Sharma

FA: Chris Sharma, 2010

Bonjour !

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Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Auteur·e·s: Miguel Blanco

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9788409202331

A comprehensive guidebook covering 18 main crags in the Alt Urgell region of northern Catalunya, near Andorra. The crags covered are Peramola, Oliana, Espluvins, Coll de Boixols, Valldarques, Sallent, Coniller, Coll de Nargo, Organya, Fontanella, Tres Ponts, Nyus, Arseguel, Figols, Narieda, Canelles, Perles, and Ainya.

Auteur·e·s: Pete O'Donovan and Dani Andrada

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780956700650

A selective guidebook describing the sport climbing in the province of Lleida to the west of Barcelona and stretching into the Pyrenees, covering 22 different areas and almost 3,900 routes from F3 to F9. The 22 areas covered are Camarasa, St Llorenc de Montgai, Cubells, Alos de Balaguer, La Pauta, Santa Ana, Os de Balaguer, Tartareu, Santa Linya, Ager, Terradets, Vilanova de Meia, Abella de la Conca, Collegats, Oliana, Coll de Nargo, Perles, Canelles, Figols, Tres Ponts, Cavallers, and La Cova de Juncosa.

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