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Ascensions de Schiefer Traum

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Affichant les 2 ascensions total.

Cotation Voie Style d'escalade Qualité Grimpeur Date
6b+ ~6b+ Schiefer Traum
1 5a 45m En second
2 5c+ 45m Sportive grimpé en tête par Luca Girardi
3 6b+ 45m En second
4 6b+ 45m Sportive grimpé en tête par Luca Girardi
5 6a 45m En second
6 5b+ 45m Sportive grimpé en tête par Luca Girardi
7 5b+ 40m En second
8 5a 45m Sportive grimpé en tête par Luca Girardi
9 5c 45m En second
10 5b 45m Sportive grimpé en tête par Luca Girardi
11 5b 45m En second
Sportive 490m
Luca Girardi
Dim 30 Oct. 2022
6a+ Difficile Schiefer Traum
1 5b 45 Sportive

It's possible to place some cams here (0.5-1), but not strictly necessary. Varied climbing.

2 5c+ 45 En second

Don't stop at the old belay, but continue heading right. The crux move (pressing feet into slab while holding an undercling) can possibly be skipped by following a grassy crack to the left.

3 6a 45 Sportive

Slab.

4 6a 45 Sportive

Slab. Crux moves right at the belay.

5 6a+ 45 Sportive

Slab. Took me a few attempts to find a small edge for the left hand, which gives enough stability to raise the right foot. Once you have all the holds, the rating is ok. Stay to the left, once the next belay comes into view.

6 5c 45 En second

Slab with some vertical steps.

7 5c 40 Sportive

Slab.

8 5a 45 En second

Slab and an easy flake.

9 5c 45 Sportive

Slab and an easy flake.

10 5b 45 En second

More varied terrain including a nice mantle over a small overhang. Make sure to use alpine slings to reduce rope drag!

11 5b 45 Sportive

Enjoyable slab along varied structures.

Sportive 490m Excellent
MiniMized
Dim 17 Sept 2023
First time on a big slab wall. Protection was sometimes a bit scary, but always fair. Quick and easy rappelling. Finding the start of the route was a bit of a hassle. We ended up climbing the right side of the large boulder that sits in the gully (we also saw a bolt on the left side of the boulder, but it seemed a bit sketch). Despite numerous notices that the wall would be wet until 11:00 a.m., we started climbing around 09:00 a.m. and found dry conditions, although there was a bit of Foehn wind, which usually means very low humidity conditions.

 

Affichant les 2 ascensions total.

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