Walking up the hill from the gates this is the first bolted section of the wall before dropping down the main quarry. Rock is of good quality but can be dirty in places after heavy rain. Belays are generally good for all the routes, but it's worth taking a sling for the first 3 routes.
Climbing is not allowed due to unstable sections of the wall. This is clearly marked and the whole quarry is fenced off. Recent (2023) efforts have doubled the fence around the quarry to make access more difficult for the general public.
See the BMC Regional Access Database: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/viewcrag.aspx?id=846
Being a national park, consult the local guide books and the regional access database for any closures. As usual, Nesting birds, and protected flora should be preserved. Some crags are on Private land, and therefore act reasonably if asked to leave.
Ici pour la première fois ?
theCrag.com est un guide gratuit pour les sites d'escalade partout dans le monde, édité en collaboration par des grimpeurs passionnés, des bloqueurs et d'autres gens sympathiques.Vous pouvez enregistrer toutes vos ascensions, vous connecter et discuter avec d'autres grimpeurs et bien plus encore...» partez à la découverte, » en savoir plus or » posez-nous une questionAuteur·e·s: Gary Gibson & Ian Carr
Date: 2015
ISBN: 9780903908382
A comprehensive guidebook describing the trad climbing, sport climbing and bouldering in the northern area of the Peak District, covering 92 crags including the classic crags of Stoney Middleton, Horseshoe Quarry, Water-cum-Jolly, Raven Tor and Harpur Hill.
Auteur·e·s: Ian Carr & Gary Gibson
Date: 2018
ISBN: 9780903908399
A comprehensive guidebook describing the trad climbing, sport climbing and bouldering in the southern area of the Peak District, covering 50 crags including the classic areas of High Tor, Dovedale, Wirksworth, Matlock and the Manifold Valley.
Auteur·e·s: Alan James & Chris Craggs
Date: 2020
ISBN: 9781873341582
A selective guidebook describing the best Trad rock climbing and sport climbing found on the limestone crags in the Peak District, covering over 3,000 routes at 30 crags.
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