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The Hawkcraig

  • Contexte de la cotation : UK
  • Photos : 1
  • Ascensions : 88
  • Aka: Aberdour

Saison

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Résumé

It faces south, dries quickly and is very popular on summer evenings.

Description

This sea-cliff is easily accessed from Aberdour and offers a good number of middle-grade climbs.

Best Route : Pain Pillar VS 4c

Partially tidal. Only the west end of the crag is accessible during high tide.

Limit. de l'accès

Bird bans may be present. Please read Disturbance of Birds section on Mountaineering Scotland website.

Partially tidal.

Approche

If driving from Mill Farm Road to Aberdour, take a left on A921 and quickly the first right onto Hawkcraig Rd. Park at one of the car parks (56.052574, -3.289378) and walk south east towards the lighthouse. The crag will be on the right facing south. 

An easy and short descent approach is possible on the eastern side of the crag to the base of the very first climbs on the right. Alternatively, and abseil on stakes further west is also possible. Furthermore, there is also the option to walk west down the path that leads to the Forth View Hotel and then walk back eastwards towards the crag, giving you the most impressive sight of the cliffs.

Tags

Voies

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Cotation Voie

The quartz-filled crack at the back of the recess. Climb it and step left into Ugh when you reach the roof. Belay with the tree stump on the terrace.

Stark on the terrace, near the tre stump, where it says 'KEN'.

There's a white-ish corner above a terrace (3m right of Squirrel Slab), and to the left of it a small roof can be seen. Climb from the bottom of the corner, to directly underneath the small roof. From here move slightly leftwards to climb the left edge of the wall above, without moving into Squirrel Slab.

1). The overhanging crack at the back of the bay is well protected and leads to a good belay ledge. Cams needed for the belay. 2). From the bottom terrace, climb the corner right in front which has a white patch on the left at the bottom. If you finished the pitch higher up, traverse slightly right to be on top of the white patch, and climb up on good rounded holds.

Go right at the small roof, then back left.

a slightly harder version taking the roof direct.

This takes the wall (buttress) to the right of Gaucho and left of Rebel's Groove. Avoiding holds and gear from either of the climbs left or right (eliminate), climb the crack in the pillar to a ledge (same ledge of Rebel's Groove, and from there climb straight up to a blunt black rib. There's a creaky/shaky/loose flake that you inevitably use to overcome the bulge. From top of the bulge, continue straight up to the top.

UPDATE 30/04/2021: The shaky flake(s) have both fallen off leaving a large scoop of dirt. The grade is now unknown. Climb with caution.

Climb a series of shallow corners that you will find about 3m left of Guano. The crux (not well protected) is the protruding nose. Finish above climbing past the gorse plants.

Find the big flake (5m wide) of Flake and Wall, and climb its left edge/arete without bridging into the main cliff wall. Poorly protected but some decent committing moves.

There is a bit of quartz on a wall just left of Destiny Groove. Climb this to a 'porthole' and keep climbing to the triangular roof. Climb straight up the Beak (nose, crux) without escaping left of right if you want to claim the grade. Protection is poor throughout. Bolt belay.

Goes up the pillar between Welly Wall and Eureka. If you find Eureka, climb the wall immediately left avoiding holds of Eureka, and whithout fully stepping left into the slanting ledge.

A natural eliminate between Termination and Eureka, without using holds or protection of either. From exactly below the small overlap with an obvious large undercling, climb straight up. Reaching the undercling is protected from below. The crux (above) is unprotected. Commitment and determination will see you through. Worth it if climbed purely.

The crack at the extreme right end of the cliff. Don't bridge out behind you for the grade.

Bonjour !

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Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Auteur·e·s: Andy Nisbet

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9781907233159

A comprehensive sport climbing guidebook for Scotland, including 3 dry tooling areas, describing over 1,300 routes across a wide range of grades from F3 to F9a.

Logements à proximité plus Cacher

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