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Great Wall of China

  • Contexte de la cotation : US
  • Ascensions : 265

Saison

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F
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Voies

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New route on the left side of the steep headwall. Start up Aurora's permadraws and bust out left about 2/3rds of the way up. More technical, great holds and great climbing.

FA: Peter Croft

Aurora is the awesome overhanging line on the far left side of the Great Wall of China. The route starts off with vertical climbing until you get to a small ledge that provides an awkward but decent rest. From the rest blast up the overhanging headwall with good holds. The last few moves are pumpy and a little dynamic.

Take Corona to the top by bouldering through the final dihedral.

Left-hand of the pair of short sport routes that go to a ledge part-way up the wall.

Climb Fortune Cookie then continue up the face.

Right-hand of a pair of short climbs to a ledge part-way up the cliff.

A fun continuation of China Doll. Crux is weaving through the overhangs that leads to a fun moderate headwall to the anchor.

Mussy hook anchor.

FA: Marty Lewis & Kevin Calder

Easy but quality extension of Tsing Tao 10b. Extension is the same grade, just more of it.

Enjoyable steep juggy climbing through bif huecos, trending left over the roof and onto a nice headwall. Rock is a bit suspect, but climbs better than it looks.

Start immediately right of Mandarin Orange. A bit squeezed in, but adds a great and sustained upper headwall.

Climb Peking Duck to the anchors, traverse right and continue up to the top anchors of Yellow Peril.

This is the 5 bolt extension of Tiananmen Square. The climbing is characterized by good holds every 3rd of 4th move with thin crimps and pockets in between. The steepness and length make for a fun a challenging route, 70m rope required. The only thing that detracts from this route is the fact you have to climb a runout slippery 5.10 to get to the good upper headwall.

To 35m: Climb straight above the new Beijing anchor into easy climbing for a few bolts. The route trends up and right through an obvious dihedral system. When the dihedral starts to trend straight up it becomes pumpy with an awkward crux over a bulge in the dihedral. Stand up over the bulge and clip the chains.

To 40m: From the 35m anchor at 11c do a huge move right to a mail slot, then another reachy move up and left to a good hold. Clip one bolt then do a bouldery move to holds and a delicate finish at another anchor above at 40m.

Note: you'll need an 80m rope to lower off the high 12b extension anchors.

1 5.10d 35m
2 5.12b 5m

Starts at the steep, slippery seam crack.

The 20m continuation above Genghis Khan up the steep dihedral.

Steep face left of Confusing Confucious.

Scramble up easy 3rd class terrain to an awesome headwall with a crux high on the route. Long draw on the first bolt helps a lot with drag or skip it if you're confident climbing easy choss.

Bolted face then steep crack

5.9 to the first anchor and 10d to the second anchor. Worth doing the full ride.

Far right side of China Wall, just right of Go For The Gold.

Starting from the Silk Road/Chicken Feet shared anchor you will climb up and left along a left leaning edge/flake to a delicate reach to the anchor. Still a bit crumbly, but should improve with traffic. Starting on Silk Road or Chicken Feet and climb past the shared anchor. This extension can be climbed in one combined pitch with either of these climbs. Add 4 extra bolts to a mussy style anchor.

Super fun varied climbing with a combo of big sloped pockets, edges, and some stemming if you're creative. Shares Silk Road anchor.

To the right of Chicken Feet. A nice short jaunt up some classic Great Wall style rock.

FA: Bill Trethewey, Glenn Johnson & Kevin Bairy

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Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Auteur·e·s: Kimbrough Moore, Shannon Joslin, Leo Popovic

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9798218007959

Edgewalker Entertainment:
A comprehensive guide to the greater Bay Area of California, Golden State Bouldering provides readers with info on the outdoor bouldering around San Francisco, Sacramento, Santa Rosa and Santa Cruz.
  • Describes 1,600 boulder problems with hundreds of color photos, maps, GPS coordinates and hand-drawn illustrations

Auteur·e·s: Toby Evans

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9781493045464

FalconGuides:
Hiking the State's 15 Peaks Over 14,000 Feet. Developed for every skill level, the FalconGuides Climbing California's Fourteeners lays out plans and logistics for making your climb a positive experience—no matter how many summits you've reached.
  • California's 15 peaks over 14,000 ft. are becoming more popular, and this book provides essential information for taking them on
  • Each mountain is broken down based on the technical skills needed so you know what to expect
  • Details for each climb include a list of recommended equipment, how to prepare for rapidly changing weather and trail conditions, and a general timeframe needed to summit

Logements à proximité plus Cacher

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Mar 25 Avr
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