Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | Grimpeur | |||
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Mar 2 Jan 2024 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bridge Area Crags Bridge Buttress | |||||||
5.9 | ★ The Layback (Zig) | 15m | |||||
Lun 27 Nov. 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Seven-Eleven Wall | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ Bimbo Shrine | 24m, 8 | |||||
5.11d | ★★★ Scenic Adult | 27m | |||||
5.11c | ★★ Tony the Tiger | 24m | |||||
Lun 27 Nov. 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Flight of the Gumbie | 24m, 9 | |||||
5.10b | ★ Low Voltage | 21m | |||||
Sam 25 Nov. 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Cotton Top Cotton Top | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Cottonmouth | 6 | |||||
5.11c | ★★★ End of Innocence | ★★★ Classique | |||||
5.11b | ★★★ Q-Tip | 7 | |||||
5.10d | ★★ Cottonhead | 12m | |||||
5.12a | ★★★ Psycho Wrangler | ||||||
Jeu 23 Nov. 2023 - Summersville Lake | |||||||
Whippoorwill Whippoorwill | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Blimey | 6 | |||||
5.11a | ★★★ Masuko | 6 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Gimme A Clown | 6 | |||||
Ven 27 Oct. 2023 - Seneca | |||||||
South Peak West Face | |||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Pleasant Overhangs | 88m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Jeu 12 Oct. 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.12b ~5.12a | ★ Clean Shaved — 2 essais | 21m | ★ Bon | ||||
Not 12b. Given 11d on MP, 24 Australian seems fair. I don’t have the reach for the “ single move” even with super high feet, but did multiple crimpy moves immediately right of the bolt that worked out well.
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5.10d | ★★ Booby Prize | 21m, 6 | ★ Bon | ||||
Nice enough on its own, but really a link up of two routes
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5.11a | ★★ G-String | 24m, 8 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Nice climb. I wore my thongs to belay Dave and had to explain joke
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5.10b | ★★ Badass Tattoo | 26m, 10 | ★ Bon | ||||
Much easier than all the 5.9 trad classics at NRG, could also be led on trad safely.
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Mer 11 Oct. 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Party Buttress | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Exoduster | 14m | ★ Bon | ||||
Fora short route it packed a punch. A gnarly warm up for me
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5.10b | ★★ Autumn Fire | 21m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Much easier than smooth operator. Quite nice.
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5.10b | ★★★ Party In My Mind | 27m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Some amazing holds and a long journey on mostly TCUs and some finger/ thin hand pieces. Gear sometimes spaced.
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Mer 11 Oct. 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | |||||||
5.11d | ★★ Slab-O-Meat | 34m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Came back to do it, gave up my static beta and jumped after the crux traverse as it seemed more certain. Onsighted from 3rd bolt to end
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Dim 8 Oct. 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | |||||||
★ Rats Alley | 23m | ★ Bon | |||||
Nice enough, I clearly need fist jam practice- this one actually fitted my fists
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5.8 | ★ Totally-clipse | 23m, 5 | |||||
Thought a move on this was harder than either of the 5.9s to the left
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5.10b | ★★ ...With A Little Help From My Friends | 23m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Really liked this one despite the easy middle
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5.9 | ★★ The Upheaval | 26m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Nice route, not as good as brolga etc though
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5.9 | ★★ Fool Effect | 38m, 13 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Nice and long, a pain to descend.
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5.11d | ★★ Slab-O-Meat | 34m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
We were meant to be having an easier day but got bored. Then it rained. Figured out a functional sequence to third bolt, then it’s all much easier. Hopefully will get back
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Sam 7 Oct. 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Party Buttress | |||||||
5.11b ~5.11c | ★★ Smore Energy — 2 essais | 26m | |||||
Nice climb, 4 distinct sections with hands free rests. 11c on Mountain project and in guide book.
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5.9 | ★★ Smooth Operator | 27m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Ha ha, “ the fist crack” at the start was hard for me, ended up having to layback it to do it clean at some hard grade after trying all sorts of crazy moves. The rest of the route is great.
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5.10a | ★ Biohazard | 34m | ★ Bon | ||||
No one seems to do the end any more, full of cobwebs
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Ven 6 Oct. 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Blocks Area | |||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Disturbance — 2 essais | 21m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Two goes, on lead, then top rope. Very cruxy, major issue getting to first decentpod with the negative 9 cm ape factor my right arm has. Not sure it’s worth further time. Nice line though.
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Ven 6 Oct. 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Burning Buttress | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Rod Sterling Crack | 23m | ★ Bon | ||||
Liked the finishing finger crack. Did not like move to arete.
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5.10b | ★★★ Burning Calves | 23m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Nice route, found near the start hardest, but probably height related due to steeper feet. The “ crux” was ok.
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Mer 4 Oct. 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain The Brain | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Brain Tweezers | 20m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Great route, 5.10 c in guidebook. Cool mono and lots of good moves
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Mer 4 Oct. 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Burning Buttress | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Wham, Bam, Thanks For The Jam | 21m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Overhanging Fist crack- maybe if you have men hands, more like overhanging offwidth start. Didn’t even like the traverse around the corner or the crack to the top that much which were straightforward compared to start.
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5.9 | ★★ Happy Hands | 21m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
I wasn’t a fan. Hard to get out of sentry box type bit. The whole thing felt dirty and slippery.
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Mar 3 Oct. 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind | 21m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
What a great route. Steep and looks improbable.
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5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite | 18m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Overhanging hand jams. My gloves both lost wrist strap but I hung in there
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5.10d | ★★ Realignment | 21m | ★ Bon | ||||
Route was pretty dirty, but good moves. Not sure I would lead it without checking out gear. It is there, but spaced.
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5.10a | ★★ The Entertainer | 21m | |||||
My right shoulder just can’t handle V grooves any more. Had to change sequence at start. Rest of it was fine.
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Lun 2 Oct. 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Decameron Area | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ The Decameron - avec Elliott Pryor | 27m, 9 | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
2nd Try. This thing is all time! Probably the most fun I've ever had climbing in the sun. The position is out of this world, as soon as you hit the arete you are above the tree line and climb about 35 ft on the arete with the most amazing view and the route tops out, how does it get any better! The only negative to this climb is the lack of bolts in the first section of climbing, not the most approachable for the 5.10 leader because of this. An incredible close to an amazing day of easy climbing, if every 5.10 was like this I would never feel the need to climb anything harder.
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Lun 2 Oct. 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Mrs. Field's Follies - avec Elliott Pryor | 29m, 10 | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Wow, this might be as good as rock climbing gets. Incredible climbing from beginning to end with an amazing view from the chains. I can't imagine anything that would make this climb better. The new 1st bolt for a direct start is definitely a huge win for this route. The roof is classic, the crack is cool and everything in between is heaven. I'm stunned and overjoyed!
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5.6 Difficile | ★ Bobby D's Bunny - avec Elliott Pryor | 21m, 9 | ★ Bon | ||||
I thought this one was harder than the 5.8s and nowhere close to as enjoyable. Weird reachy crux at the 3rd quickdraw and then uninspiring wandery climbing after. Worth doing if you are 5.8 climber at this crag looking to do another pitch, but no one should do this climb before climbing the two 5.8s next door.
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5.8 | ★★ Geisha Girl - avec Elliott Pryor | 29m, 11 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Really nice climbing, I'd probably think it was all time if it weren't for its neighbor. Fun fist crack to start and then continuous climbing over and around bulges. For the 5.8 climber, this is totally a route worth doing, but it leaves a bit to be desired for the more seasoned climber.
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Lun 2 Oct. 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Flight of the Gumbie | 24m, 9 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Interesting final moves made the route
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5.9 | ★ Jumpin' Ring Snakes | 20m | ★ Bon | ||||
Fun trad climb. #5 handy.
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5.10b ~5.10c | ★ Springer | 23m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Some nice moves but so caked in chalk it was unpleasant, especially the final moves above the last bolt.
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5.10d | Boing | 21m | ★ Bon | ||||
Found it easier than the route to the right, the grades could be reversed.
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5.10b | ★ Low Voltage | 21m | ★ Bon | ||||
Liked this better than route to left, though used shorter person traverse in for the start. First route at NRG
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5.10b | ★★ The Green Piece | 21m, 6 | ★ Bon | ||||
Generally fun, like many of the routes here way overchalked. I spent the climb blowing the excess chalk off the holds.
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Dim 1 Oct. 2023 - Summersville Lake | |||||||
Main Area Orange Oswald Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Strong Arming the Little Guy - avec Caleb Mattson, Sam | 6 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
2nd Try. Probably the hardest 5.10 I've ever done, super interesting movement on underclings and slopers, but unfortunately I was about 2 inches too short to use any of the good footholds. Not an easy section of climbing on the route. Got a bit flash pumped, and then went for a swim in the lake after.
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Dim 1 Oct. 2023 - Smoke Hole Canyon | |||||||
Guide Wall Ninja Wall | |||||||
5.10c | ★ Black Hanger - avec David Gray | 15m | ★ Bon | ||||
Nice moves, would get very good if ledge not there
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5.10a | ★ Native Suns - avec David Gray | 12m | ★ Bon | ||||
Spaced bolts, no stopper moves
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5.8 | ★ Can't Pray The Gray Away - avec David Gray | 17m | ★ Bon | ||||
Had to do it for the name. Was actually quite good.
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Sam 30 Sept 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.9 Difficile | ★★★ Flight of the Gumbie - avec Caleb Mattson, Sam, Chris | 24m, 9 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Bummer. I really expected this thing to be all time, and sure it was good but it certainly left a lot to be desired. The bottom was uninspiring and lacked a clear line, and many of the holds seemed chossy. Once you pull around to the right side of the arete, however, the route is amazing. Super fun face climbing on cool holds and even a sinker mono in the crux if you choose to use it. If the whole climb was as good as the last two bolts this thing would be all time but unfortunately that wasn't the case.
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Sam 30 Sept 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Rico Suave Buttress | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Preparation H - avec Caleb Mattson, Sam, Chris | 20m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
2nd Try. Really sick route, with incredible sequences throughout. Hard moves off the ground were unenjoyable on the flash try, but felt sick on the go. Climbing to the 5th quickdraw is just some could old-fashioned arete liebacking movement with a sick toe perch to gain a crimp, and the boulder after pulling around the corner is divine with sequential footwork and an incredible float move out right. Felt a really good flow on this one and was psyched to do it soft 2nd.
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5.10a | ★★★ The Rico Suave Arete - avec Caleb Mattson, Sam, Chris | 20m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
First route at the New! This one was on the all-time list, in fact, the only 5.10 from the New to make the list, and I've been nervous it wouldn't live up to the hype. Lucky for me, it turned out to be as sick as a 5.10 can be. Straightforward long lock-offs, balancy and thoughtful sections, and a really nice section with jugs and horizontal hand jams. People say this one is polished, but I thought it was in incredible shape for its popularity. Went back up a second time and got some crux footy from Caleb to hopefully put into the blog.
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Sam 30 Sept 2023 - Reed's Creek | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Block Magic | 18m, 8 | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Split personality route. Probably would have climbed better as a mixed trad route with better bolt placements. Not a fan.
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5.10c | ★ Apophis | 21m, 8 | Pas la peine | ||||
Someone had to clean it. Not great to lead or second, felt harder than 10a if you are short off the hands free ledge at 5th bolt. MP gives it 5.10c/d which is more realistic. Nice start but the bolting, rock and line after that aren’t great.
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Sam 30 Sept 2023 - Reed's Creek | |||||||
Gypsies Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Gypsies | 15m, 6 | ★ Bon | ||||
Nice route, good warm up
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5.9 | ★ Shaved Scamper | 15m, 5 | ★ Bon | ||||
Nice wall with interesting climbing due to the diagonal nature of the bedding plane
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Mer 26 Juil 2023 - Summersville Lake | |||||||
Main Area Long Wall | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Flirting with Empty - avec Carl, 婧怡 | 6 | |||||
5.10d | ★ Flight Time - avec Carl, 婧怡 | 12m, 5 | |||||
5.10c | ★★ Go Ballistic - avec Carl, 婧怡 | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Chewy - avec Carl, 婧怡 | 12m, 4 | |||||
Mar 25 Juil 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor White Wall | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ I Smell A-rete - avec Carl, 婧怡 | 23m | |||||
Mar 25 Juil 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Rico Suave Buttress | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ The Rico Suave Arete - avec Carl, 婧怡 | 20m | |||||
5.11a | ★ Grit and Bear It - avec Carl, 婧怡 | 17m | |||||
Lun 24 Juil 2023 - Summersville Lake | |||||||
Main Area Perot Wall | |||||||
5.10c | ★ Gun Lust - avec Carl, 婧怡 | 4 | |||||
5.10a | ★ Trigger Happy - avec Carl, 婧怡 | 9m, 4 | |||||
Lun 24 Juil 2023 - Summersville Lake | |||||||
Main Area The Coliseum | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Reckless Abandon - avec Carl, 婧怡 | 18m, 8 | |||||
Sam 22 Juil 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Snake Buttress | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ New World Order - avec Carl | 26m, 7 | |||||
Ven 21 Juil 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Seven-Eleven Wall | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Tony the Tiger - avec Carl, 婧怡 | 24m | |||||
Ven 21 Juil 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.11d | ★★ Mo' Betta' Holds - avec Carl, 婧怡 | 21m | |||||
5.11d | ★★ The Bicycle Club - avec Carl, 婧怡 | 17m | |||||
5.10b | ★ Low Voltage - avec Carl, 婧怡 | 21m | |||||
5.10a | Play it by Ear - avec Carl, 婧怡 | 20m | |||||
Ven 9 Juin 2023 - Seneca | |||||||
South Peak East Face | |||||||
5.3 | ★★ Skyline Traverse | 67m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Ven 9 Juin 2023 - Seneca | |||||||
South Peak West Face | |||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Green Wall | 69m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
5.4 | ★★ Le Gourmet | 75m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
5.6 | ★★ Critter Crack | 14m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
5.11a | ★★ Sidewinder | 40m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
5.2 | ★ Old Ladies' Route | 84m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
5.4 | ★★ Ecstasy Junior | 46m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
5.4 | ★★ Ecstasy Junior | 46m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Lun 5 Juin 2023 - Seneca | |||||||
South Peak West Face | |||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Green Wall | 69m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Ven 23 Déc 2022 - Summersville Lake | |||||||
Main Area Long Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Menace Alert (Manace Alert) | 4 | |||||
5.10d | ★ Flight Time (Flight Path) | 12m, 5 | |||||
Ven 23 Déc 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Fern Buttress Wild Seed Area | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Fragile Egosystem | 18m | |||||
Ven 23 Déc 2022 - Summersville Lake | |||||||
Main Area Long Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Chewy | 12m, 4 | |||||
Ven 23 Déc 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Springer | 23m | |||||
Ven 23 Déc 2022 - Summersville Lake | |||||||
Main Area Long Wall | |||||||
5.10d | ★ Flight Time (Flight Path) | 12m, 5 | |||||
Ven 23 Déc 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Cotton Top Cotton Top | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Cottonmouth | 6 | |||||
5.11c | ★★★ End of Innocence | ||||||
Ven 23 Déc 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Flight of the Gumbie | 24m, 9 | |||||
5.10d | Stop Pulling My Ear | 20m | |||||
Ven 23 Déc 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Fern Buttress Ritz Cracker Area | |||||||
5.10 | ★ New Tricks For The Old Dog | 18m | |||||
Ven 23 Déc 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.10d | Boing | 21m |