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Affichage de 1 - 100 sur plus de 10,000 voies.

Cotation Voie Style d'escalade Popularité
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall
24 Repo Man

Out through big roof in the main cave. Downgraded to 24 in recent guide.

Start: Beneath L side of Melville's Cave. Then the thin wall above.

FA: Geoff Little, Maureen Gallagher & Jon Muir, 1988

Trad 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Interdit Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag
25 Deck Games

Very appealing rock.

Start: Under the nice bulgy orange buttress closest to the road and start up the left leaning crack only to break right almost immediately.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Trad mixte 13m, 1
24 Scorpio

Left-hand finish to Sagittarian (Grade could be suspect ).

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 1998

Trad
24 Look Sharp

Up weakness 8m right of 'Steps Ahead' to first bolt. Go slightly right to second bolt and hard moves lead to pin. Finish up right.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Tony Dignan, 1979

Trad mixte 15m, 2
24 Remembrance Day

From the finish of 'Problematic', traverse L across the top of the wall under small roof-line with a piton, 2 BRs (take brackets), then over rooflet and left past a slung knob for pro.

Start: as for 'Problematic'.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1982

Trad mixte 20m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Interdit Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder
V4 V4 Problem
Bloc 5m
V5 The Big E
Bloc 5m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall
25 Failing New Romantic

The original start climbed a tree, which since fell down. Now there is a bolt and you need to batman the start.

Start at the next flake R of 'Letting Go'. Batman, then layback with difficulty up weakness past another bolt. Originally given 24 with a rumour it was hard for the grade.

An independent right hand start which goes free from the ground has been bolted, still a closed project.

FA: Steve Howden, Chris Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1982

Trad mixte 15m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area The Thimble
24 R Stabbur

Beware loose block. Adequacy of pro is unknown. Join 'Nothing Too Serious' at the top.

Start 3m R of NTS, just L of tree.

FA: Patrik Alsebv, 1995

Trad 12m
24 Drowsy Drivers Die

The arete.

Start 2m R of 'Thimble'.

FA: Roland Foster & James Anderson, 1989

Trad 9m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall
24 R Petro-Fy

Arete with poor pro.

Start 3m R of 'Petronius'

FA: Peter Martin & Mark Savage, 1990

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully
24 Hunger

Bridge, then into seam with 1 bolt and 1 piton. Double rings on ledge.

Start: Start on the R wall of the gully L of 'Light Fingered'.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead, 1981

Trad mixte 20m, 1
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall
24 Chubby Like Chris Part II

The middle of the buttress, no wimping off the direct line.

Start: Start R of CLC.

FA: Mike Law, 1982

Trad mixte 12m, 1
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork
24 A Loaded Gun

Flakes to BR then R and up.

Start: Start 10m R of 'Feel It Closing In'.

FA: Roland Foster & Allan Wilkie, 1982

Trad mixte 10m, 1
25 Lord of the Midgets

L on shallow flakes then up past 2 FHs. If you go straight up before the traverse it's only 20.

Start: Start R of MRS.

FA: Gavin Jensen & Wayne Jensen, 1989

Trad mixte 15m, 2
24 Brotherly Love

This pair's additions at 'Werribee Gorge' see a lot more love than these obscure numbers.

Start: Start 10m L up the gully from IaLD.

FA: Wayne Jensen & Gavin Jensen, 1989

Trad mixte 16m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Rye Wall
24 Wasters in Love

The blank wall right of 'Catcher' starting 3 or 4 metres right of that climb. 1 carrot and 1 FH. A hold may have broken and may be more like 27 now.

FA: Simon Mentz, 1989

Trad mixte 13m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall
25 X Elmer Thud

Start beneath high ring bolt and follow right-trending overlaps to a diabolical crux level with the bolt. Turn your mind insane and follow the seam to its end, whereby a worrying reach out to crimps and a sidepull leads you to easier climbing above. Take small thin (0.5cm) slings to wrap around nubbins en-route and a large one for the jug further up. Make sure you don't fall off past the bolt!

Start: Start 2m R of R.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1989

Trad mixte 20m, 1
24 Slap Strafe Jerk

Originally supposed to stick-place a #2 hex to protect the monster jump-start. As usual there is more than one level of shade here. Originally the nut was placed and then used for aid to place a backup. Finally Mikl has put in a sensible bolt.

Start: Start as for TOR.

FA: Mike Law & Malcolm Matheson, 1983

Trad mixte 25m, 1
25 Mixed Metaphor

VS to SM starting from the right past 2 FH's.

Trad mixte 25m, 4
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle
24 Use Me and Abuse Me

Louise's description is worth repeating in full! "Why pay a shrink to talk about your problems when you can do a new route and tell the whole world for free?"

Start: Start in the cave L of CC.

The bolts flex alarmingly and need to be replaced.

FA: Simon Mentz, Simon Carter & Richard Henderson, 1991

Trad mixte 15m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress
25 Nati Dwed
Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully
24 Entangled

Great second pitch for 'Astral Plane' or just approach from the hole leading to the ledge of 'Pilot Error'.

Start: Start atop 'Astral Plane'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Geoff Robertson & Mike Law, 1981

Trad mixte 25m, 1
24 Astral Plane

Bridge to gain short crack, bolt, then right and up, bolt and finish on a larger crack at top. Has had a rap anchor added.

Start: Start high in the gully on the right hand or main wall looking into the gully, at a stone step towards the back.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Ian Anger, 1981

Trad mixte 15m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area
25 I Dunno Direct Finish

I Dunno to level with the traverse back right into Daily Planet, arrange a nest of good gear then continue straight up via a reachy and exciting sequence (RP possible mid crux).

FA: 2014

Trad
24 I Dunno Direct Start
Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall
25 Debutantes and Centipedes

Trend R to arete past 3 RBs. Crux to break then tend leftwards past good trad to loweroff.

Start: Start L of the blunt arete.

FA: Mike Law & Mike Law-Smith, 1981

Trad mixte 25m, 3
25 Cambodia

The face with 2 bolts, involving two distinct boulder problems. Reachy start off two sidepulls then into slopers to a brief respite, then a cute micro crimp problem to the ledge. Easily up from there. Harder than some 26s.

Start: Start R of D&C.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1982

Trad mixte 20m, 2
24 X Lois Lane

Amazing how many people commandeer the blunt end on a bold route!

Start: Start R of C roughly in the middle of the wall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Tony Dignan, Matt Dunstan & Peter Lindorff, 1979

Trad 20m
25 Extension

The reachy face with a bolt.

Start: Start just R of LL.

FA: Mike Law & Mike Law-Smith, 1981

Trad mixte 25m, 1
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae The Flight Deck
24 It'll Never Fly

Thin steep face then traverse left to arete. Up arete (#2 BD cam) to lower-off.

Start: Just left of 'Orestes'.

FA: Mike Law, 1982

Sportive 30m, 5
25 Have A Good Flight

Climb It'll Never Fly almost to arete, then cut back diagonally right and up to another bolt (exciting) then up to anchor.

Start: As for It'll Never Fly.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982

Sportive 18m, 6
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae House of Atreus
24 Evading Infra-Red

Very unbalanced in grade with a hard start. The top wall could be a nice direct finish for 'Surface To Air'. Was a bit controversial in its day for no good reason other than who put it up.

  1. 15m (24) Boulder past bolt and up to join Surface to Air. Belay to protect the second.

  2. 20m (20) Continue up Surface to Air butthen take the wall up right into a groove and on to the jugs.

FA: Matthew Brooks & Julian Oldmeadow, 1991

Trad mixte 35m, 2, 1
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Muldoon Area
25 Fail Safe

Used to be desperate and dangerous with only a manky fixed sling for protection, and first you had to get to it. Recenty retroed by the FA so might become more popular. As for 'Muldoon' for 10m, then climb R arete of cave past 3 RB to lower-off.

Start: Start as for 'Muldoon'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Geoff Little, 1979

Trad mixte 10m, 3
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area
25 Gay Olympics

Thin face climbing and a dyno, nice! Originally given 26 with fewer bolts and no stick-clip.

Start: Start just right of the odd U bolts - use the stick clip!

FA: Mike Law & Ian Anger, 1983

Trad mixte 20m, 3
25 Golden Gaytime

Direct finish to 'Gay Olympics'

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2006

Trad mixte 30m, 3
25 No Country for Old Men

An excellent birthday present from Glenn to Kevin; the best route on Collision Course wall. Climbs the wall between Collision Course and Female Friends. Take off a star if the bees return. Three bolts and some trad gear.

Start: Either climb the pillar immediately right of Collision Course, or climb the start of Collision Course itself (better) to the horizontal ledge at about 10m.

From the right edge of the ‘holes’ recessed there, reach up to clip the first ring bolt. Straight up past this and the second ring bolt above. Continue up until able to reach right to clip the third bolt (on Female Friends). Up to the anchors (double rings) above Collision Course.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Glenn Tempest & Glenn Tempest, Sept 2016

Trad mixte 30m, 3
24 Female Friends

An exciting face climb that is very sustained.

Start: Start as for GG.

FA: Mike Law & Mark Moorhead, 1981

Trad mixte 27m, 3
24 Madness

Tough move at BR then up L to short crack.

Start: Start up inside the 'Agamemnon' chimney, 1m L of a thin crack on the R (NW) wall.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Stuart Hickson, 1982

Trad mixte 15m, 1
24 Mixed Blessing

Not as good as it looks unfortunately, and the bolts are hard to clip.

Start: Start a few metres R of E, and 1m L of T.

FA: Hugh Widdowson, 1992

Trad mixte 50m, 4
24 R Telemachus Direct

Up Telemachus's crack then straight up the arete above to stance. Step L below red patch and straight up the middle of the buttress to the top. Good gear at crux then run-out on easier ground.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Eddy Ozols, 1981

Trad 30m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Steel Delinquency Pinnacle
24 R Mr Sheen

Polished face, with 1 BR which is scary to clip, and a scary finish.

Start: Start 2m R of SDV.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Malcolm Matheson, 1981

Trad mixte 15m, 1
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Finger Prince Pinnacle
25 Up, Up and Away

Cops an absolute bagging in Louise's guide.

Start: Start just right of 'Stirling Moss'. It's the bolted line, not clear how many bolts it actually has.

FA: Ant Prehn, 1986

Trad mixte 12m, 3
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Iron Void Pinnacle
24 Iron Void Variant Start

Up fragile looking flakes to join Iron Void. Gear may be suspect.

Start: Start 8m R of 'Tuby Tuba'.

FA: Steve Monks, 1992

Trad mixte 15m, 1
25 The Flashing Blade

Short, soft and bolted - needless to say this one is popular.

Start: Start on the uphill side of the 'Iron Void' pinnacle.

FA: Nick White & Andy Pollitt, 1990

Trad mixte 25m, 5
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle
24 Spring Offensive

BR, then bold to overhang and 2nd BR. Go 4m up L then straight up. The direct finish goes slightly R from 2nd BR to 3rd BR.

Start: Start in gully L of F.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Evelyn Lees (Direct Finish by Matthew Brooks & Julian Oldmeadow), 1992

Trad mixte 20m, 3
25 WhiteTrash

Start: The start is not described...

  1. 20m (25) Take the RH crack through bulge, then move L after roof and up flake.

  2. 20m (-) Simple crack in the middle of the face.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Mark Moorhead (alt), 1979

Trad 40m, 2
25 Rats Have Feelings Too

The incipient flake - take plenty of #1 RPs.

Start: Start 5m R of WT.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Ant Prehn, 1986

Trad 40m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side
24 R Private Assassin

Not well protected, a serious lead. Up Private Detective to seam (about 4m), diagonally left across face and up just right of arete.

FA: Douglas Hockly & Esther Renita Thompson, 2002

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle
24 The Philosopher

Follow the seams straight up from the start of 'Cadenza' and finish up that climb Take care as gear is hard to see and place.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1968

FFA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Peisker, 1979

Trad 18m
25 The Philosopher Direct
Trad mixte 1
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall
24 Abbie Normal

Bridge up gully to clip bolt. Up blunt arete past another bolt to join Wyrd, up corner and flake. L at bolt to jugs, up thinly past another (bolt, not jug) to rings.

Start: Just L of Wyrd.

FA: Douglas Hockly & Ingvar Lidman, 2002

Trad 24m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Rabbit Boulder
V5 Traverse the whole Bunny
Bloc
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall
25 Squealing

Start as for QDS.

Up QDS then take small flake up L, almost reaching 'Squeakeasy'. Up then traverse R into hanging crack on bulge and up this line.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Simon Parsons, 1981

Trad 30m
25 R Squeasing

Runout.

Start as for QDS.

Climb QDS to where it joins Quisling. Step left and climb the seam to the right of Squealing aiming for the hanging nose. Gain this on its left then step right and finish straight up to mega jugs. Finish up Squealing or Squeakeasy.

FA: ingvar lidman, 2005

Trad 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall
24 Get Knotted

Start 3m right of Mind Games.The seam, then join the finish of 'Beautiful Loser'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Trad 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle
24 Horrorscope

First 24 at Araps but otherwise a bit underwhelming.

Start just R of Hyaena. Straight up then follow the R-leading diagonal.

FA: Chris Peisker, 1976

FA: DS Kim Carrigan & John Smoothy, 1984

Trad 16m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Stoat Wall
25 X Small Wall

This squeezed-in face was toproped then soloed by Mudie, then retrobolted by others. The bolts were then removed so it is effectively a solo. Watch out for the loose looking blocks at the top Start: Start 1.5m L of TSSO.

FA: Dave Mudie, 2000

Trad mixte 8m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall
24 Paladin

Start beneath the appealing finger crack in the orange wall.

Saunter on up.

FA: Greg Child & Andrew Thomson, 1978

Trad 16m
24 Life in the Fast Lane

Start beneath the proud steep buttress forming the highest part of Wailing Wall.

Slightly daunting start leading into the crack, then pump up the power to reach left into the next crack weakness. Up this to large pockets, then finish up and left.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1978

Trad 25m
25 Life in the Fast Lane Direct Finish

Start as for Life in the Fast Lane.

Instead of traversing off left at the large pockets (as for the original route), move right a couple of moves and head up the orange face via an interesting sequence to the small roof. Bombproof gear in the pockets then a slight runout to the roof (and more gear) make this a tad exciting but generally quite safe.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985

Trad 25m
24 Die Loaded

Start beneath the RH crack.

Up the RH groove to it's finish, go up R to a mantle, then the face and the L-most corner.

FA: Greg Child, 1978

Trad 38m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Shattered Buttress
25 Alone in the Dead Zone

Quite good, but the bolt is crap. Don't lead it.

FA: Tim Ball & John Lattanzio, 1985

Trad mixte 15m, 1
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Deep Freeze Wall
24 Handshake

The flared handcrack.

Start: Start 4m L of DF.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Ian Anger, 1980

Trad 15m
25 Deep Freeze

The leftwards diagonal. Not that well protected at the start, but a great little route.

It has been done starting in from the L, but it's harder and not as good.

Start: Start 2m L of the R arete of the wall.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Eddy Ozols, 1980

Trad 15m
24 Deep Throat

The vague line, needing small wires. Go R to arete at about half height, after which it eases substantially.

Start: Start 1m R of DF.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress
24 X Run It Out, Sucker

Start R of Megalomaniac. Up unprotected blank wall (23) to join Power Crazy for 3m, then R on poor slopes to join a line through the bulge.

FA: Jon Muir & Brigitte Muir, 1985

Trad 36m
24 Another One Bites the Dust

Start R of Vacancy. Bouldery blankness into vegetated crack.

FA: Mike Graham, 1980

Trad 40m
25 Dyslexia

Tiny steep crack. 'Best viewed as a B2 problem - the crux being a long dynamic off mean slopes to a small hold above a roof' - Carrigan.

Start: Start just L of the arete.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Peisker, 1979

Trad 10m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall
24 R Split Level

Up JC to it's top roof, then traverse R past old manky fixed gear, cams, and a runout, to join 'Cecilia'. It's worse to second than to lead.

Start: Start as for JC.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979

Trad 30m
24 Guide for the Perplexed

Start 3m R of 'Johns Corner' at carrot bolt (bring a very tall friend to clip it for you), face climb past two fixed hangers to reach the underclings at the roof, past another fixed hanger in the steepness.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd (originally traversing off - the finish was added in), 1990

Trad mixte 25m, 4
25 Buddhist Economics

Reachy start past 2 BRs over bulge, then trend R. Tackle the roof 2m L of C at a weakness.

Start: Start just L of C.

FA: Parrish Robbins & Mike Fox, 1990

Trad mixte 25m, 2
24 I-GoB-BA Link-Up

Really very good. A link up of Intransience, Blind Ambition and Girls on Bikes. Intransience 's initial steep moves to a rest, then moving L approximately 1.5m (where Intransience goes R) via nice moves through the tricky grey section and back R again to another rest. Finally directly up through the blank black section over the last RB of Blind Ambition.

(There is an alternative L finish from the last big horizontal up an obvious flake between the described finish and Cecilia, however despite the climbing being easier, gear is non-existent)

FA: Christian Seger & Adam Syriatowicz, 1997

Trad mixte 27m, 1
25 Blind Ambition

Short crack past PR to ledge on I, and up I to jug. Now slightly L to join flake. L at break and then up.

Start: Start down R of I.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Geoff Little, 1982

Trad 30m
25 Girls on Bikes

Bulging crack then traverse L to ledge. Head L and up very faint groove over bulge into WoH. Now go diagonally L to finish up 'Cecilia'.

Start: Start 1.5m R of BA.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1981

Trad 40m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls
V5 Outrageous Coincidences

L to R trav

Bloc
V5 O.C's R to L
Trad
24 Revolution Rock Low Start

Boulder into Revolution Rock using evil pockets.

Trad
25 I'm a Mess

Climb the faint groove past bolt (FH) to gritty, grey roof. Traverse right across this on slopers to jugs, then up final headwall. Fiddly pro.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982

Trad 15m
25 Tres Hard

Up faint groove to sharp pockets (FH), then stretch right into base of flared crack weakness and follow this to top. Powerful.

Start: Starts right of I'm A Mess.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979

Trad 15m
25 Playing With A Different Sex

Starts 2m right of 'Tres Hard' and climbs seam/crack weakness to hanging slab. Join the dots up the slab, then up easier grey tower to finish. A high side runner in Tres Hard was the only gear in the first 3/4 of the route on the first ascent. Retrobolted with Roland's permission, 3 bolts plus trad gear.

FA: Roland Foster, 1982

Trad mixte 18m, 3
24 Guns of Brixton

Further right along the ledge are two prominent chalked lines easily identified by their limestone-like appearance of large pockets and underclings. This route starts 1m left of the first line (On High) and climbs less travelled territory to shallow corner. Joins 'On High' near the top.

FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1983

Trad 15m
25 Non-Stop

Right of 'On High' are two large pockets on the lip of a roof. Up to pockets, then over bulge and up leftwards through more pockets to layback flake. Continue directly.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979

Trad 20m
25 Cuddly Fat

Layback up vague corner then left across good holds to an obvious pocket. Reachy crux via a dubious hold, then left to the hollow jug and finish up crack weakness.

Start: Just right of Non Stop at slight corner.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Allan Wilkie, 1982

Trad 20m
24 Slip, Slop, Slap

Boulder up past 2 bolts and some trad placements.

Start: Start 5m R of NH where the wall bulges considerably.

FA: Wayne & Gavin Jensen, 1990

Trad mixte 12m, 2
24 Smithereens

3m right of 'Blast Off' and 5m left of black rock. Stick clip runner to start, then boulder into crack above.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Chris Shepherd, 1983

Trad 10m
25 Wastemaster

Located on small wall above Non Stop. Easily accessible from the summit. Climbs crimpy wall past two bolts and trad placements veering left near the top past a poor pocket.

FA: James Falla & Paul Hoskins, 1988

Trad mixte 10m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully The Torture Chamber
V4 3) thin seam
Bloc
V5 5) Second thin seam

Lean back and lock your fingers into an amazing roof crack. Swing around and up from there.

Bloc
V5 Left side of scoop

Sit start, climb up left side of the scoop and finish up as for "big dyno".

Bloc
V5 7) classic traverse
Bloc
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress
24 Berserk

A flawed route with no need for the chipped holds. Back to the front (main) wall. Up chimney/corner on left end of main wall (Armpit - 11) then access diagonal rampline rightwards past a bolt. Cross 'Reaper' and finish up headwall just right of arete. No reliable gear before the bolt (needs replacing) and route is quite runout on the headwall.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1983

Trad 35m
25 Taste Sensation

From Reaper's 1st belay, head up 'Reaper' 2nd pitch to where it curves left, then traverse 2m right to below bolt. Pull over bulge and up crack to break. Traverse left along break, then up headwall past bolt, aiming for short crack.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Reaper'.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Malcolm Matheson, 1981

Trad 65m
25 Taste Sensation Direct Finish

Taste Sensation to the big horizontal, then near the left end of this launch straight up into Grimstone's finish.

Trad 30m
24 Ultramundane

From the belay, drop down then traverse R across 'Incest' to the first ledge of 'Wild Oats'.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Reaper'.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead, 1983

Trad 30m
25 Incest

Back at ground level, 2m L of the weakness of Wild Oats. Head up then leftwards to 2 prominent bolts, then left across white marbled rock (crux) into hanging corner. Finish up this to the first belay of 'Reaper'.

Start: Start as for the LH option of 'Wild Oats'.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Louise Shepherd, 1983

Trad 48m
24 R Fine Arts

Start: Start as for 'Wild Oats'.

  1. 30m (21) Climb directly to the ledge from the RH start, not much pro.

  2. 15m (23) Traverse L a few metres then up to R-curving flake which leads to ledge.

  3. 20m (23) Walk R then climb the steep East face of the buttress, just L of the arete.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Cathy Blamey

FA: Barry Young & Chris Stroud (p1 only), 1979

Trad 65m, 3
24 Jilted

Back wall. Approach via 'Skyline Walls', 'Dreadnought Gully' or Josie's Climb. Very steep start past bolt then rightwards along lip of roof (BRs) to a tricky exit (Cam or small wire).

FA: Alistair Mark, 1989

Trad mixte 15m, 3
25 The Perfect Match

Back wall. A mini Slopin' Sleazin'? Unconventional moves up an interesting feature left of 'Jilted'. Start as for that route to its first BR, then head up to 2nd BR and left to the base of unlikely arete. Climb this to good pocket (BR), then continue past undercling to top. Note: Trad anchor now mandatory after some tosser stole the double ring anchor.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2008

Trad mixte 10m, 3
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Minstrel Pinnacle
24 R Wild Rose

Climb the little crack which starts on the lip of the roof. Gain it from the left. The fixed wire and slings at the start of the crack are long gone and it is probably quite bold to place your own on the lead.

Start: Start on the west face (the face looking up Central Gully).

FA: Craig Peacock, 1982

Trad 15m

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