Voies dans World pour la cotation selectionnée

Out through big roof in the main cave. Downgraded to 24 in recent guide.

Start: Beneath L side of Melville's Cave. Then the thin wall above.

Very appealing rock.

Start: Under the nice bulgy orange buttress closest to the road and start up the left leaning crack only to break right almost immediately.

Left-hand finish to Sagittarian (Grade could be suspect ).

Up weakness 8m right of 'Steps Ahead' to first bolt. Go slightly right to second bolt and hard moves lead to pin. Finish up right.

From the finish of 'Problematic', traverse L across the top of the wall under small roof-line with a piton, 2 BRs (take brackets), then over rooflet and left past a slung knob for pro.

Start: as for 'Problematic'.

The original start climbed a tree, which since fell down. Now there is a bolt and you need to batman the start.

Start at the next flake R of 'Letting Go'. Batman, then layback with difficulty up weakness past another bolt. Originally given 24 with a rumour it was hard for the grade.

An independent right hand start which goes free from the ground has been bolted, still a closed project.

Beware loose block. Adequacy of pro is unknown. Join 'Nothing Too Serious' at the top.

Start 3m R of NTS, just L of tree.

The arete.

Start 2m R of 'Thimble'.

Arete with poor pro.

Start 3m R of 'Petronius'

Bridge, then into seam with 1 bolt and 1 piton. Double rings on ledge.

Start: Start on the R wall of the gully L of 'Light Fingered'.

The middle of the buttress, no wimping off the direct line.

Start: Start R of CLC.

Flakes to BR then R and up.

Start: Start 10m R of 'Feel It Closing In'.

L on shallow flakes then up past 2 FHs. If you go straight up before the traverse it's only 20.

Start: Start R of MRS.

This pair's additions at 'Werribee Gorge' see a lot more love than these obscure numbers.

Start: Start 10m L up the gully from IaLD.

The blank wall right of 'Catcher' starting 3 or 4 metres right of that climb. 1 carrot and 1 FH. A hold may have broken and may be more like 27 now.

Start beneath high ring bolt and follow right-trending overlaps to a diabolical crux level with the bolt. Turn your mind insane and follow the seam to its end, whereby a worrying reach out to crimps and a sidepull leads you to easier climbing above. Take small thin (0.5cm) slings to wrap around nubbins en-route and a large one for the jug further up. Make sure you don't fall off past the bolt!

Start: Start 2m R of R.

Originally supposed to stick-place a #2 hex to protect the monster jump-start. As usual there is more than one level of shade here. Originally the nut was placed and then used for aid to place a backup. Finally Mikl has put in a sensible bolt.

Start: Start as for TOR.

VS to SM starting from the right past 2 FH's.

Louise's description is worth repeating in full! "Why pay a shrink to talk about your problems when you can do a new route and tell the whole world for free?"

Start: Start in the cave L of CC.

The bolts flex alarmingly and need to be replaced.

Great second pitch for 'Astral Plane' or just approach from the hole leading to the ledge of 'Pilot Error'.

Start: Start atop 'Astral Plane'.

Bridge to gain short crack, bolt, then right and up, bolt and finish on a larger crack at top. Has had a rap anchor added.

Start: Start high in the gully on the right hand or main wall looking into the gully, at a stone step towards the back.

I Dunno to level with the traverse back right into Daily Planet, arrange a nest of good gear then continue straight up via a reachy and exciting sequence (RP possible mid crux).

Trend R to arete past 3 RBs. Crux to break then tend leftwards past good trad to loweroff.

Start: Start L of the blunt arete.

The face with 2 bolts, involving two distinct boulder problems. Reachy start off two sidepulls then into slopers to a brief respite, then a cute micro crimp problem to the ledge. Easily up from there. Harder than some 26s.

Start: Start R of D&C.

Amazing how many people commandeer the blunt end on a bold route!

Start: Start R of C roughly in the middle of the wall.

The reachy face with a bolt.

Start: Start just R of LL.

Thin steep face then traverse left to arete. Up arete (#2 BD cam) to lower-off.

Start: Just left of 'Orestes'.

Climb It'll Never Fly almost to arete, then cut back diagonally right and up to another bolt (exciting) then up to anchor.

Start: As for It'll Never Fly.

Very unbalanced in grade with a hard start. The top wall could be a nice direct finish for 'Surface To Air'. Was a bit controversial in its day for no good reason other than who put it up.

1. 15m (24) Boulder past bolt and up to join Surface to Air. Belay to protect the second.

2. 20m (20) Continue up Surface to Air butthen take the wall up right into a groove and on to the jugs.

Used to be desperate and dangerous with only a manky fixed sling for protection, and first you had to get to it. Recenty retroed by the FA so might become more popular. As for 'Muldoon' for 10m, then climb R arete of cave past 3 RB to lower-off.

Start: Start as for 'Muldoon'.

Thin face climbing and a dyno, nice! Originally given 26 with fewer bolts and no stick-clip.

Start: Start just right of the odd U bolts - use the stick clip!

Direct finish to 'Gay Olympics'

An excellent birthday present from Glenn to Kevin; the best route on Collision Course wall. Climbs the wall between Collision Course and Female Friends. Take off a star if the bees return. Three bolts and some trad gear.

Start: Either climb the pillar immediately right of Collision Course, or climb the start of Collision Course itself (better) to the horizontal ledge at about 10m.

From the right edge of the ‘holes’ recessed there, reach up to clip the first ring bolt. Straight up past this and the second ring bolt above. Continue up until able to reach right to clip the third bolt (on Female Friends). Up to the anchors (double rings) above Collision Course.

An exciting face climb that is very sustained.

Start: Start as for GG.

Tough move at BR then up L to short crack.

Start: Start up inside the 'Agamemnon' chimney, 1m L of a thin crack on the R (NW) wall.

Not as good as it looks unfortunately, and the bolts are hard to clip.

Start: Start a few metres R of E, and 1m L of T.

Up Telemachus's crack then straight up the arete above to stance. Step L below red patch and straight up the middle of the buttress to the top. Good gear at crux then run-out on easier ground.

Polished face, with 1 BR which is scary to clip, and a scary finish.

Start: Start 2m R of SDV.

Cops an absolute bagging in Louise's guide.

Start: Start just right of 'Stirling Moss'. It's the bolted line, not clear how many bolts it actually has.

Up fragile looking flakes to join Iron Void. Gear may be suspect.

Start: Start 8m R of 'Tuby Tuba'.

Short, soft and bolted - needless to say this one is popular.

Start: Start on the uphill side of the 'Iron Void' pinnacle.

BR, then bold to overhang and 2nd BR. Go 4m up L then straight up. The direct finish goes slightly R from 2nd BR to 3rd BR.

Start: Start in gully L of F.

Start: The start is not described...

1. 20m (25) Take the RH crack through bulge, then move L after roof and up flake.

2. 20m (-) Simple crack in the middle of the face.

The incipient flake - take plenty of #1 RPs.

Start: Start 5m R of WT.

Not well protected, a serious lead. Up Private Detective to seam (about 4m), diagonally left across face and up just right of arete.

Follow the seams straight up from the start of 'Cadenza' and finish up that climb Take care as gear is hard to see and place.

Bridge up gully to clip bolt. Up blunt arete past another bolt to join Wyrd, up corner and flake. L at bolt to jugs, up thinly past another (bolt, not jug) to rings.

Start: Just L of Wyrd.

Start as for QDS.

Up QDS then take small flake up L, almost reaching 'Squeakeasy'. Up then traverse R into hanging crack on bulge and up this line.

Runout.

Start as for QDS.

Climb QDS to where it joins Quisling. Step left and climb the seam to the right of Squealing aiming for the hanging nose. Gain this on its left then step right and finish straight up to mega jugs. Finish up Squealing or Squeakeasy.

Start 3m right of Mind Games.The seam, then join the finish of 'Beautiful Loser'.

First 24 at Araps but otherwise a bit underwhelming.

Start just R of Hyaena. Straight up then follow the R-leading diagonal.

This squeezed-in face was toproped then soloed by Mudie, then retrobolted by others. The bolts were then removed so it is effectively a solo. Watch out for the loose looking blocks at the top Start: Start 1.5m L of TSSO.

Start beneath the appealing finger crack in the orange wall.

Saunter on up.

Start beneath the proud steep buttress forming the highest part of Wailing Wall.

Slightly daunting start leading into the crack, then pump up the power to reach left into the next crack weakness. Up this to large pockets, then finish up and left.

Start as for Life in the Fast Lane.

Instead of traversing off left at the large pockets (as for the original route), move right a couple of moves and head up the orange face via an interesting sequence to the small roof. Bombproof gear in the pockets then a slight runout to the roof (and more gear) make this a tad exciting but generally quite safe.

Start beneath the RH crack.

Up the RH groove to it's finish, go up R to a mantle, then the face and the L-most corner.

Quite good, but the bolt is crap. Don't lead it.

The flared handcrack.

Start: Start 4m L of DF.

The leftwards diagonal. Not that well protected at the start, but a great little route.

It has been done starting in from the L, but it's harder and not as good.

Start: Start 2m L of the R arete of the wall.

The vague line, needing small wires. Go R to arete at about half height, after which it eases substantially.

Start: Start 1m R of DF.

Start R of Megalomaniac. Up unprotected blank wall (23) to join Power Crazy for 3m, then R on poor slopes to join a line through the bulge.

Start R of Vacancy. Bouldery blankness into vegetated crack.

Tiny steep crack. 'Best viewed as a B2 problem - the crux being a long dynamic off mean slopes to a small hold above a roof' - Carrigan.

Start: Start just L of the arete.

Up JC to it's top roof, then traverse R past old manky fixed gear, cams, and a runout, to join 'Cecilia'. It's worse to second than to lead.

Start: Start as for JC.

Start 3m R of 'Johns Corner' at carrot bolt (bring a very tall friend to clip it for you), face climb past two fixed hangers to reach the underclings at the roof, past another fixed hanger in the steepness.

Reachy start past 2 BRs over bulge, then trend R. Tackle the roof 2m L of C at a weakness.

Start: Start just L of C.

Really very good. A link up of Intransience, Blind Ambition and Girls on Bikes. Intransience 's initial steep moves to a rest, then moving L approximately 1.5m (where Intransience goes R) via nice moves through the tricky grey section and back R again to another rest. Finally directly up through the blank black section over the last RB of Blind Ambition.

(There is an alternative L finish from the last big horizontal up an obvious flake between the described finish and Cecilia, however despite the climbing being easier, gear is non-existent)

Short crack past PR to ledge on I, and up I to jug. Now slightly L to join flake. L at break and then up.

Start: Start down R of I.

Bulging crack then traverse L to ledge. Head L and up very faint groove over bulge into WoH. Now go diagonally L to finish up 'Cecilia'.

Start: Start 1.5m R of BA.

L to R trav

Boulder into Revolution Rock using evil pockets.

Climb the faint groove past bolt (FH) to gritty, grey roof. Traverse right across this on slopers to jugs, then up final headwall. Fiddly pro.

Up faint groove to sharp pockets (FH), then stretch right into base of flared crack weakness and follow this to top. Powerful.

Start: Starts right of I'm A Mess.

Starts 2m right of 'Tres Hard' and climbs seam/crack weakness to hanging slab. Join the dots up the slab, then up easier grey tower to finish. A high side runner in Tres Hard was the only gear in the first 3/4 of the route on the first ascent. Retrobolted with Roland's permission, 3 bolts plus trad gear.

Further right along the ledge are two prominent chalked lines easily identified by their limestone-like appearance of large pockets and underclings. This route starts 1m left of the first line (On High) and climbs less travelled territory to shallow corner. Joins 'On High' near the top.

Right of 'On High' are two large pockets on the lip of a roof. Up to pockets, then over bulge and up leftwards through more pockets to layback flake. Continue directly.

Layback up vague corner then left across good holds to an obvious pocket. Reachy crux via a dubious hold, then left to the hollow jug and finish up crack weakness.

Start: Just right of Non Stop at slight corner.

Boulder up past 2 bolts and some trad placements.

Start: Start 5m R of NH where the wall bulges considerably.

3m right of 'Blast Off' and 5m left of black rock. Stick clip runner to start, then boulder into crack above.

Located on small wall above Non Stop. Easily accessible from the summit. Climbs crimpy wall past two bolts and trad placements veering left near the top past a poor pocket.

Lean back and lock your fingers into an amazing roof crack. Swing around and up from there.

Sit start, climb up left side of the scoop and finish up as for "big dyno".

A flawed route with no need for the chipped holds. Back to the front (main) wall. Up chimney/corner on left end of main wall (Armpit - 11) then access diagonal rampline rightwards past a bolt. Cross 'Reaper' and finish up headwall just right of arete. No reliable gear before the bolt (needs replacing) and route is quite runout on the headwall.

From Reaper's 1st belay, head up 'Reaper' 2nd pitch to where it curves left, then traverse 2m right to below bolt. Pull over bulge and up crack to break. Traverse left along break, then up headwall past bolt, aiming for short crack.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Reaper'.

Taste Sensation to the big horizontal, then near the left end of this launch straight up into Grimstone's finish.

From the belay, drop down then traverse R across 'Incest' to the first ledge of 'Wild Oats'.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Reaper'.

Back at ground level, 2m L of the weakness of Wild Oats. Head up then leftwards to 2 prominent bolts, then left across white marbled rock (crux) into hanging corner. Finish up this to the first belay of 'Reaper'.

Start: Start as for the LH option of 'Wild Oats'.

Start: Start as for 'Wild Oats'.

1. 30m (21) Climb directly to the ledge from the RH start, not much pro.

2. 15m (23) Traverse L a few metres then up to R-curving flake which leads to ledge.

3. 20m (23) Walk R then climb the steep East face of the buttress, just L of the arete.

Back wall. Approach via 'Skyline Walls', 'Dreadnought Gully' or Josie's Climb. Very steep start past bolt then rightwards along lip of roof (BRs) to a tricky exit (Cam or small wire).

Back wall. A mini Slopin' Sleazin'? Unconventional moves up an interesting feature left of 'Jilted'. Start as for that route to its first BR, then head up to 2nd BR and left to the base of unlikely arete. Climb this to good pocket (BR), then continue past undercling to top. Note: Trad anchor now mandatory after some tosser stole the double ring anchor.

Climb the little crack which starts on the lip of the roof. Gain it from the left. The fixed wire and slings at the start of the crack are long gone and it is probably quite bold to place your own on the lead.

Start: Start on the west face (the face looking up Central Gully).