★★★ Muldoon 13

Can be climbed in one pitch if you have a 70m rope. In that case minimize protection on the first pitch and extend as much as possible (sensible) to reduce rope drag.

1. Up corner then traverse left along ledge with committing move around arete up to belay. Gear belay.

2. Straight up off belay, trending vaguely right through juggy terrain. Up to DRB.

34m rap from double ring bolts above the climb - 70m rope or doubles required. Can be done in two raps using a 60 and the mid-station, or walk right and down the gully.

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

• Stick to the paths.

• Don't disturb the wildlife.

• Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

• Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).