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Main Wall Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Robert Mudie Campbell Gome Andrew Connolly Dane Evans Wendy Eden

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Alcuni contenuti sono stati forniti sotto licenza da: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Main Wall 28 routes in Area

Summary:
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Stagionalità

Per lo più Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: -36.766955, 141.845992

descrizione

Main Wall is the first wall you reach as you come in on the walking track.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Bushranger Bluff Area

limitazioni per l'accesso

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

ereditato da Arapiles

etica

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

ereditato da Arapiles
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bullet Buttress

A pleasant, low-angled buttress.

Start: Start 20m L of Melville's Cave.

FA: Keith & Maurice Leslie, 1967

3 Trad 20m
2 Holdup Line

Very nice.

Start: Immediately right of 'Bullet Buttress'. A steep wall leads to a baby chimney, then up easily and step left into BB.

FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967

9 Trad 20m
3 Holdup Line Direct Finish 14 Trad 20m
4 Stage Coach

Up via the offwidth slot then finish as for 'Long Bow'.

Start: Start just R of 'Holdup Line'.

FA: Ceri Law & Geraldine Thompson, 1981

11 Trad 20m
5 Working Class Hero

Short chimney then finish as for 'Stage Coach'.

Start: Just right of SC.

FA: Bill Andrews, Ceri Law & Ian Wilson, 1980

11 Trad 20m
6 Long Bow

The groove with snap-o-licious flakes and a tricky finish.

Start: 1m R of 'Working Class Hero'.

FA: Ed Briner & Norm Osborne, 1970

10 Trad 20m
7 Ckup

Line immediately right of Long Bow.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 1994

11 Trad 20m
8 Kerfuffle

Start at crack two metres left of Ckinell but climb up grey slab on left to an easy stance directly below large thread. Straight up to middle of the two steep roofs. There's an undercling with a rattling tooth like block that is not going anywhere. Tricky gear and pumpy to place but regular gear can be found. Once over the roof follow the same line as Fracas to the top or head right to rap anchors.

FA: Freya Hik & Hywel Rowlands, Dic 2017

17 Trad 28m
9 Fracas

Start at crack line two metres left of Ckinell, up crack, gradually veering left into second crack, then through large guano filled pocket and jug hall through the easier section of roof above pocket. Easy climbing to top or head right to rap anchors.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Freya Hik, Dic 2017

16 Trad 28m
10 Lost Gold

The overhung arete 1.5m left of Ckinell. Limited gear at roof and pumpy to place.

18 Trad 28m
11 Ckinell

The slightly overhung corner. Beware snapping holds especially on the poorly protected start.

Start: Just L of Melville's Cave.

FA: Paul Gillis & Norm Osborne, 1970

14 Trad 28m
12 Ckinothe

Long traverse.

Start: As for 'Ckinell' to gain Melville's Cave. Step right and traverse under the overhangs all the way to 'The Ghost Of Melville'. Meander right just above second cave, then up.

FA: Paul Gillis & Norm Osborne, 1970

12 Trad 52m
13 Repo Man

Out through big roof in the main cave. Downgraded to 24 in recent guide.

Start: Beneath L side of Melville's Cave. Then the thin wall above.

FA: Geoff Little, Maureen Gallagher & Jon Muir, 1988

24 Trad 25m
14 Climber-Model Denialists

Mosey up to the cave via the L crack, launch out onto the lip jugs of 'Repo Man', then veer R and up on good but spaced holds past two FH's into the finish of 'Cricket Bats In A Box'.

FA: Douglas Hockly, 2017

26 Trad mista 20m, 2
15 Cricket Bats in a Box

Poor pro. The right side of the cave to a sickle flake, then left.

Start: Below the R side of Melville's Cave.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1988

22 Trad 25m
16 Cave Climb

Step R from cave to ledge. Then up corner or nose, both with poor pro.

Start: Start as for 'Cricket Bats in a Box'.

FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967

9 Trad 30m
17 Horse Drawn

Start 5m right of Melville's Cave. Up wall and through cruxy overhang.

FA: Peter Martin & Ian Howe, 1980

12 Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 Sexless Sue

Start 10m right of Melville's Cave. Climb the rotten crack and go through the overhang at the top.

FA: Norm Osborne & Ed Briner, 1970

13 Trad 20m
19 Sue's Crutchless Knickers

Cracks, then finish up gully or up crack to the left.

Start: 8m right of 'Sexless Sue'.

FA: Andrew Corlass, James Falla, Teddy Bear Thompson & Sue Magoo, 1983

13 Trad 20m
20 Little Revolver Crack

Discontinuous cracks.

Start: Start just L of 'Revolver Crack'.

7 Trad 20m
21 Revolver Crack

The deep crack.

Start 20m right of Melville's Cave.

FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967

6 Trad 20m
22 Hangman

Lovely rock to start, and a dramatic exit to finish.

Start: As for 'Revolver Crack' then head R up thin crack.

FA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975

14 Trad 25m
23 The Ghost of Melville

ATTENTION: There can be a Bee Hive on this route, take care.

The major corner, facing the second cave.

Start: 3m R of 'Revolver Crack' up major corner facing second cave. Step left to finish.

FA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975

15 Trad 25m
24 Big Dog's Cock

Presumably this climbs just R of the corner taken by 'The Ghost Of Melville'... but the write-up doesn't say.

Start: R of 'Hangman'. Up slab, keeping right of corner to big pockets, over tricky bulge then directly up and through roof to top.

FA: Mark Witham, Steve Reynolds, Merilyn Reynolds, Michael Hartman, Rhonda & Emil, 1996

12 Trad 28m
25 Red Right Hand

Bring some painkillers.

Starts in the second cave (Nick Cave) through the obvious weakness in the roof with one bolt.

Tracciata: muki woods

FFA: muki woods

FA: muki woods

22 Trad mista 10m, 1
26 15 Feet Of Pure Steep, Bro

Fun roof climbing, past a slightly spooky block.

Starts in Nick Cave, on the right hand side past two bolts and finishes up headwall at a sling anchor.

Tracciata: muki woods

FFA: muki woods

FA: muki woods, Gen 2018

22 Sportiva 14m, 2
27 Six Wet Troopers

The least mossy line.

Start: About 3m right of 'Big Dog's Cock'

FA: Michael Hartman, Mark Witham, Steve Reynolds, Rhonda & Emil, 1996

10 Trad 28m
28 Climb, sleep, repeat

The crack 6m right of 'The Ghost of Melville', through overhang and up gulch.

FA: Wendy Eden & Lassi, 1 Nov 2018

10 Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
3 Bullet Buttress Trad 20m
6 Revolver Crack Trad 20m
7 Little Revolver Crack Trad 20m
9 Cave Climb Trad 30m
Holdup Line Trad 20m
10 Climb, sleep, repeat Trad
Long Bow Trad 20m
Six Wet Troopers Trad 28m
11 Ckup Trad 20m
Stage Coach Trad 20m
Working Class Hero Trad 20m
12 Big Dog's Cock Trad 28m
Ckinothe Trad 52m
Horse Drawn Trad 20m
13 Sexless Sue Trad 20m
Sue's Crutchless Knickers Trad 20m
14 Ckinell Trad 28m
Hangman Trad 25m
Holdup Line Direct Finish Trad 20m
15 The Ghost of Melville Trad 25m
16 Fracas Trad 28m
17 Kerfuffle Trad 28m
18 Lost Gold Trad 28m
22 15 Feet Of Pure Steep, Bro Sportiva 14m, 2
Cricket Bats in a Box Trad 25m
Red Right Hand Trad mista 10m, 1
24 Repo Man Trad 25m
26 Climber-Model Denialists Trad mista 20m, 2
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