A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Robert Mudie Campbell Gome Brendan Heywood Simon Dale Hywel Rowlands Peatey Luke Andrew Connolly Dane Evans Wendy Eden
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Alcuni contenuti sono stati forniti sotto licenza da: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Main Wall 28 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Main Wall 28 routes in Area
- Summary:
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Per lo più Arrampicata trad
Lat / Long: -36.766955, 141.845992
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
descrizione
Main Wall is the first wall you reach as you come in on the walking track.
Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Bushranger Bluff Area
limitazioni per l'accesso
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).
etica
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ Bullet Buttress
A pleasant, low-angled buttress. Start: Start 20m L of Melville's Cave. FA: Keith & Maurice Leslie, 1967 | 3 | 20m | |||||
2 |
★ Holdup Line
Very nice. Start: Immediately right of 'Bullet Buttress'. A steep wall leads to a baby chimney, then up easily and step left into BB. FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967 | 9 | 20m | |||||
3 | ★ Holdup Line Direct Finish | 14 | 20m | |||||
4 |
★ Stage Coach
Up via the offwidth slot then finish as for 'Long Bow'. Start: Start just R of 'Holdup Line'. FA: Ceri Law & Geraldine Thompson, 1981 | 11 | 20m | |||||
5 |
★ Working Class Hero
Short chimney then finish as for 'Stage Coach'. Start: Just right of SC. FA: Bill Andrews, Ceri Law & Ian Wilson, 1980 | 11 | 20m | |||||
6 |
★ Long Bow
The groove with snap-o-licious flakes and a tricky finish. Start: 1m R of 'Working Class Hero'. FA: Ed Briner & Norm Osborne, 1970 | 10 | 20m | |||||
7 |
Ckup
Line immediately right of Long Bow. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 1994 | 11 | 20m | |||||
8 |
★ Kerfuffle
Start at crack two metres left of Ckinell but climb up grey slab on left to an easy stance directly below large thread. Straight up to middle of the two steep roofs. There's an undercling with a rattling tooth like block that is not going anywhere. Tricky gear and pumpy to place but regular gear can be found. Once over the roof follow the same line as Fracas to the top or head right to rap anchors. FA: Freya Hik & Hywel Rowlands, Dic 2017 | 17 | 28m | |||||
9 |
Fracas
Start at crack line two metres left of Ckinell, up crack, gradually veering left into second crack, then through large guano filled pocket and jug hall through the easier section of roof above pocket. Easy climbing to top or head right to rap anchors. FA: Hywel Rowlands & Freya Hik, Dic 2017 | 16 | 28m | |||||
10 |
Lost Gold
The overhung arete 1.5m left of Ckinell. Limited gear at roof and pumpy to place. | 18 | 28m | |||||
11 |
★ Ckinell
The slightly overhung corner. Beware snapping holds especially on the poorly protected start. Start: Just L of Melville's Cave. FA: Paul Gillis & Norm Osborne, 1970 | 14 | 28m | |||||
12 |
Ckinothe
Long traverse. Start: As for 'Ckinell' to gain Melville's Cave. Step right and traverse under the overhangs all the way to 'The Ghost Of Melville'. Meander right just above second cave, then up. FA: Paul Gillis & Norm Osborne, 1970 | 12 | 52m | |||||
13 |
★ Repo Man
Out through big roof in the main cave. Downgraded to 24 in recent guide. Start: Beneath L side of Melville's Cave. Then the thin wall above. FA: Geoff Little, Maureen Gallagher & Jon Muir, 1988 | 24 | 25m | |||||
14 |
★★ Climber-Model Denialists
Mosey up to the cave via the L crack, launch out onto the lip jugs of 'Repo Man', then veer R and up on good but spaced holds past two FH's into the finish of 'Cricket Bats In A Box'. FA: Douglas Hockly, 2017 | 26 | 20m, 2 | |||||
15 |
★ Cricket Bats in a Box
Poor pro. The right side of the cave to a sickle flake, then left. Start: Below the R side of Melville's Cave. FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1988 | 22 | 25m | |||||
16 |
★ Cave Climb
Step R from cave to ledge. Then up corner or nose, both with poor pro. Start: Start as for 'Cricket Bats in a Box'. FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967 | 9 | 30m | |||||
17 |
Horse Drawn
Start 5m right of Melville's Cave. Up wall and through cruxy overhang. FA: Peter Martin & Ian Howe, 1980 | 12 | 20m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
18 |
★ Sexless Sue
Start 10m right of Melville's Cave. Climb the rotten crack and go through the overhang at the top. FA: Norm Osborne & Ed Briner, 1970 | 13 | 20m | |||||
19 |
Sue's Crutchless Knickers
Cracks, then finish up gully or up crack to the left. Start: 8m right of 'Sexless Sue'. FA: Andrew Corlass, James Falla, Teddy Bear Thompson & Sue Magoo, 1983 | 13 | 20m | |||||
20 |
★ Little Revolver Crack
Discontinuous cracks. Start: Start just L of 'Revolver Crack'. | 7 | 20m | |||||
21 |
★ Revolver Crack
The deep crack. Start 20m right of Melville's Cave. FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967 | 6 | 20m | |||||
22 |
★ Hangman
Lovely rock to start, and a dramatic exit to finish. Start: As for 'Revolver Crack' then head R up thin crack. FA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975 | 14 | 25m | |||||
23 |
★ The Ghost of Melville
ATTENTION: There can be a Bee Hive on this route, take care. The major corner, facing the second cave. Start: 3m R of 'Revolver Crack' up major corner facing second cave. Step left to finish. FA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975 | 15 | 25m | |||||
24 |
Big Dog's Cock
Presumably this climbs just R of the corner taken by 'The Ghost Of Melville'... but the write-up doesn't say. Start: R of 'Hangman'. Up slab, keeping right of corner to big pockets, over tricky bulge then directly up and through roof to top. FA: Mark Witham, Steve Reynolds, Merilyn Reynolds, Michael Hartman, Rhonda & Emil, 1996 | 12 | 28m | |||||
25 |
★ Red Right Hand
Bring some painkillers. Starts in the second cave (Nick Cave) through the obvious weakness in the roof with one bolt. | 22 | 10m, 1 | |||||
26 |
★★ 15 Feet Of Pure Steep, Bro
Fun roof climbing, past a slightly spooky block. Starts in Nick Cave, on the right hand side past two bolts and finishes up headwall at a sling anchor. | 22 | 14m, 2 | |||||
27 |
Six Wet Troopers
The least mossy line. Start: About 3m right of 'Big Dog's Cock' FA: Michael Hartman, Mark Witham, Steve Reynolds, Rhonda & Emil, 1996 | 10 | 28m | |||||
28 |
Climb, sleep, repeat
The crack 6m right of 'The Ghost of Melville', through overhang and up gulch. FA: Wendy Eden & Lassi, 1 Nov 2018 | 10 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
3 | ★ | Bullet Buttress | 20m | ||
6 | ★ | Revolver Crack | 20m | ||
7 | ★ | Little Revolver Crack | 20m | ||
9 | ★ | Cave Climb | 30m | ||
★ | Holdup Line | 20m | |||
10 | Climb, sleep, repeat | ||||
★ | Long Bow | 20m | |||
Six Wet Troopers | 28m | ||||
11 | Ckup | 20m | |||
★ | Stage Coach | 20m | |||
★ | Working Class Hero | 20m | |||
12 | Big Dog's Cock | 28m | |||
Ckinothe | 52m | ||||
Horse Drawn | 20m | ||||
13 | ★ | Sexless Sue | 20m | ||
Sue's Crutchless Knickers | 20m | ||||
14 | ★ | Ckinell | 28m | ||
★ | Hangman | 25m | |||
★ | Holdup Line Direct Finish | 20m | |||
15 | ★ | The Ghost of Melville | 25m | ||
16 | Fracas | 28m | |||
17 | ★ | Kerfuffle | 28m | ||
18 | Lost Gold | 28m | |||
22 | ★★ | 15 Feet Of Pure Steep, Bro | 14m, 2 | ||
★ | Cricket Bats in a Box | 25m | |||
★ | Red Right Hand | 10m, 1 | |||
24 | ★ | Repo Man | 25m | ||
26 | ★★ | Climber-Model Denialists | 20m, 2 |