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Descrizione

This is a good area to fill in a few hours at the end of the day. The access is a relatively easy fifteen minute walk.

Avvicinamento

Approach from the signposted walking track. The track heads south from the gravel road that leads into the campground (just before the road reaches the camping ground).

Epic block At the orange arrow and burnt out stump head R up the hill. The best path is 3 meters before the orange arrow.

Dove stare

Lake Catani campground is nearby.

Etica ereditato da Mount Buffalo

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

Tags

Alcuni contenuti sono stati forniti sotto licenza da: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Vie

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Grado Via

FA: 1999

L-leaning crack at the R hand side of the block. when the crack finishes, either slab boldly to chains, or step R into groove to chains. Great climbing

FA: Mike Law & Simon Kenny, 1977

link up. Startup Glace, then traverse R past 3 bolts to UtBHH, finish up this.

FA: 1999

Up RHF corner crack and ramp to small ledge and follow bolts with homemade hangers(!) straight up slab (retrobolted in 2010).

Climb the fist/offwidth crack on the flake left of Glace to a small ledge. BR off the ledge, and follow bolts with homemade hangers(!) up slab (retrobolted in 2010).

The offwidth roof crack visible from the walking track. Crux is at the lip to easier wide crack above.

FA: Rod Young, 1979

Crack on the other side of the track from 'Plaything'.

FA: Kyle Crassini, 2000

An excellent overhanging hand crack. Was given 17 by the FA but most agree it's a couple of grades harder.

This route can be hard to locate because it faces out into the valley. The best option is to locate Homer's Butt Crack; Hand vice is the same split but in the other side of the boulder. From Homer's Butt Crack, walk back down the track to find find a gap through the boulders that you can walk through. A short scramble takes you to the route.

FA: Nic Taylor & Peter Watson, 1976

The R arete, R of Join The Dots. Up pasts 3BR's.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Keith Edgerton & David Lia, 1978

Starts approximately in centre of face, a few metres R of Epic. The crack, then slab past 1BR and 1RB.

Tracciata: kim carrigan & john smoothy, 1978

Starts L of centre of face. Slab past 3BR's and 1RB to top. poorly bolted

Tracciata: Peter Weber, 1980

up crack on LH side of the block, then slab up blunt arete passing 2? carrots to top.

Lo sapevi?

Sai che puoi creare un account per registrare e condividere le tue ascensioni? Migliaia di arrampicatori lo stanno già facendo.

Selected Guidebooks more Nascondi

Autore/i: Simon Murray and Kevin Lindorff

Data: 2006

"The Mt Buffalo - A rock climbers guide is the definitive climbing guide book for the granite wonderland of Mt Buffalo. This area is for adventure climbing and for those that love the higher mountain landscapes and rock formations that are unique to the area. Mt Buffalo offers both single and multi-pitch climbs and mainly uses trad gear for protection but there is the odd sport climb around for those that only want to clip bolts.

The Mt Buffalo - A rock climbers guide is the definitive climbing guide book for the granite wonderland of Mt Buffalo. This area is for adventure climbing and for those that love the higher mountain landscapes and rock formations that are unique to the area. Mt Buffalo offers both single and multi-pitch climbs and mainly uses trad gear for protection but there is the odd sport climb around for those that only want to clip bolts. This 234 page guide is the most comprehensive guide for Mt Buffalo and even though being the 5th edition released in 2006, is the latest version."

Autore/i: Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Data: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Autore/i: Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Data: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

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Gio 20 Apr
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