Some of the crags in the south of this area (e.g. Cantaloupe Hill) were burned in the 2020 Orroral Valley bushfire. Please exercise caution in fire affected areas.
Initial approach as for Frenchies. From French Connections and Heckmondwike Twist, continue downhill for 25m to Juvenilles and Geriatrics (the black slab on your right). From here you have two options. The traditional access (and OK for No Glove) is to scramble down the steep gully just past Juveniles, with the No Glove boulder on your left as you go down. Alternatively, scramble up the back of the boulder past a bolt to DBB and rap in. This scramble starts just behind you as you look at the start of Juveniles. For No Glove, rap and tension left to clip into the leftmost line of 3 bolts. A 60m rope is preferable (and required for the other routes). For When Only The Best Will Do and all routes to its right, extend the anchor with a long sling and rap down WOTBWD - a 60m rope just reaches.
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Jamie Valdivia su ★★ No Glove No Love 18 - Jamie feeling comfortable on No Glove No Love (18), one of Gibralters best.
★★ On the Beach Direct Start 18 - image-1633859508622.jpg
Mark Hoggard su ★★ On the Beach Direct Start 18 - otb_direct.jpg
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