Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Popolarità | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Northern Rivers Urbenville Battery Hill | |||||
15 | ★ Matt The Energizer Man
Climb ramp on R of notch to FH on bulge at 4m. Up beside white streak past 3 FH to stance L of "Cat in Nine" corner. Step up L on short vertical wall with ace buckets (FH) to long slab (FH). Chain belay on headwall shared with "Live Contact". | 30m, 6 | |||
16 | ★ Don't Trust the Bunny
6m R of Yellow Brick Road. Up R of the rock orchards, through two steep sections on good holds. Thin, sustained climbing to clip 4 then easier to the top. 7 FHs to chains. FA: Ross Miller & Richard Callf, 2006 | 24m, 7 | |||
16 | ★ Carbon Black
4m L of flake. Up the R-leaning weakness past 3 FHs to a stance - quite run out between clips 2 & 3. Step L (FH) and up steep section (FH) to easy climbing (FH) to chains. Rebolted in 2011 by SCQ. The route is a waterfall after rain. | 23m, 6 | |||
16 | ★ Ohm Sweet Ohm
A line of 5 FH's to the R of Itchy. Thin moves to 2nd FH and continue over bulge on good holds. FA: Julie Stanton, Colin Carstens & Joanna Parker, 2006 | 16m, 5 | |||
15 | ★ Itchy
Great learner lead. 1m R of the two pines are 3 pockets that look like Mickey Mouse. Up to pockets and on to next FH. Crux moves to and over the next FH lead to jugs and vertical section (FH). Over this to good chain belay on back wall of ledge. FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox | 18m, 5 | |||
15 | ★ Electrolyte
Scramble 6m up to large ledge. 1st FH below large hole (wasps removed). Continue through bulge passing 3 more FHs to chain belay shared with NASATV. Be warned of ants at 2/3 height. FA: Bernard Walsh & Colin Carstens, 2005 | 22m, 4 | |||
Northern Rivers Urbenville The Crown | |||||
15 | ★ Slapp
Off block and follow seam to first BR at five metres. Up slab blipping colts to CB. FA: Ken Cox | 20m | |||
15 | ★ Easement
Good, but a sandbag at its original grade of 13 if climbed directly. Start about 12m R of Urban Villain, in a shallow V. Climb up the V and step L onto a large ledge, the first BR is clipped from the ledge. From the ledge head up to orange overhang and lower-off. FH's and cams. FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox | 30m | |||
15 | ★ Wasted Days and Wasted Nights
FA: Ken Cox & Alistair Byrom | 65m, 2 | |||
16 | ★ Wasted Days and Wasted Nights LHV
FA: Peter Schmidt & James Fisher, 1996 | 20m, 2 | |||
15 | Image is All
Start as for the previous two climbs. Head to the same bolt at the hole. Step down onto tooth and up R to ledge. From ledge follow BR's to chain belay. FA: Alistair Byrom & M. Moran | 35m | |||
16 | Streak
10m R. Apparently the streak up the vague L-facing corner has been done without bolts. Meander up to tree belay.. | 15m | |||
15 | ★ Flotsam
Start about 4m R of Jetsom. Head straight up slab clipping BR's to chain belay. FA: Ken Cox & Alistair Byrom, 1991 | 16m | |||
Northern Rivers Urbenville Spot X | |||||
15 | The Unknown X
Weirdness. Waaay right and up the hill at nearly the highest point was the first route bolted on this wall by persons unknown. One FH and then glue-in’s. I wonder if we’ll ever find out who did this and then walked away? Climbable with some loose rock still. FFA: Unknown! | 10m | |||
Northern Rivers Urbenville Vesuvius | |||||
16 | ★ Pliny The Younger
As above, but split off left at the 8th FH up onto ledge for anchors. Belay from big ledge in canyon. 9 FH’s.PLEASE NOTE: all routes right of the Huge Chimney off limits during Falcon season (AUGUST-DECEMBER) Thankyou FFA: John O'Brien & Nathan McNeil, 2014 | 25m, 9 | |||
Northern Rivers Mt. Warning Wollumbin Shield Tourist car park (Strangler fig climbing) | |||||
15 | ★★★ Tree star classic
| 20m | |||
Northern Rivers Old Lismore Quarry | |||||
16 | ★★ Stem Awhile
| 12m | |||
Northern Rivers Chiusa Island Quarry | |||||
16 | way
| 15m | |||
Northern Rivers Byron Lowtide Boulders Life bouy rocks | |||||
V0 | ★ Lifebouy Strip
Sit start on jugs and continue upwards and top out FA: Ben Send | ||||
V0 | Jugs ahoy
Sit start on obvious jugs and traverse left past cave like indent and top out FA: Ben Send | ||||
V0 | Did somebody say dyno
Start on jug under small cave and dyno to top jug rail FA: Ben Send | ||||
Northern Rivers Surf Rock | |||||
15 | ★ two believe
One bolt at the top. start 2m right of JFF. up slab to corner then left to chain. FFA: Za Utopia & Be Utopia., 2012 | 15m, 1 | |||
15 | Sacred Union
Climb 2m left of BA, up slightly steeper face upto nose with sharp edges... use rope protector when abseiling in. FA: Za Utopia, 2013 | 16m | |||
15 | Back in Black
Next climbs access from out the end of headland.2 m left of EJ about 15m right of moonlight drive.Climb big black slab wall FFA: Za Utopia & Maxium, 2013 | 15m | |||
16 | outsiders
start inbetween EJ & CL. up slab wall over the nose FA: Za Utopia, 2013 | 12m | |||
15 | take you home
start under roof 2m R of 3e. FA: 2013 | 10m | |||
16 | ★★ sea side style
start 2m right of razor fingers. up wall 2m then traverse left across RF on small ledge then straight up. FA: 2012 | 13m | |||
V0 | ★★ Fisherman's cast arête
The boulder is found another 50m on from the last rope climb. Local fisherman's spot. This was the first line climbed here, and the best. Beautiful laybacking with a heel hook up the right arête. The line is from a stand start but a sit start has also been done, maybe at a V1 but adds no value. Finish on the top of the boulder with a nice mantle. FA: Taliesin St. john, 7 Lug 2021 | 4m | |||
Northern Rivers Lighthouse beach | |||||
V0 | ★ A5
Layaway right crack to jug and hand jam. | ||||
V0 | A8
Juggy slab with wide pinch. | ||||
V0 | ★ Left traverse
Using all the good holds and traverse left at the horizontal break FA: Gopal Thorburn | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Direct right
Move rightwards and up around the blunt arrest | 3m | |||
V0 | C1
| ||||
V0 | ★ C7
Up juggy arete avoiding both left and right blocks. High and narrow landing. | ||||
V0 | ★ D3
In corner, up past fin. | ||||
V0 | D5
Juggy arete | ||||
V0 | D7
Cracks up face | ||||
V0 | ★ D8
Jugs up arete. | ||||
V0 | J2
Avoid climbing over ledge on left! | ||||
V0 | J3
Jam crack to jugs at top. | ||||
V0 | J17
Often has dirty top out! | ||||
V0 | J21
| ||||
Northern Rivers Joggly point cave | |||||
V0 | ★ Cold Feet
| ||||
V0 | Sea Legs
| ||||
Northern Rivers Turners beach | |||||
V0 | Deserve the view
Start on the crimpy ledge on the left of the western face. Straight up | 3m | |||
Northern Rivers Woodford Island See Sea Wall | |||||
15 | Over the Top
Bridge start up slab to high reach after small roof to a jug near anchors. | 8m | |||
16 | Next Level
Step off block, up on edges to jug on hanging flake and step onto ledge at anchors. | 8m | |||
16 | Hung Over Drover
| 8m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Dusk Wall | |||||
15 | Rock People
2m R of O.start right of blackboy. Small run out at the end. last break too dirty for gear. Anchor tree and boulder. Long slings. FFA: Za Utopia & Darius Utopia, 1 Apr 2016 | 9m | |||
16 | Othila
Middle of wall . Start above blackboy climb up to base of tree. Tree anchor FFA: Za Utopia & Be Utopia, 28 Mar 2016 | 9m | |||
15 | Eagle Clan
Left of Othila. FA: Za/Be Utopia | 9m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Twilight Zone | |||||
15 | ★ Carnage At The Mouse Machine
climbs the right leaning orange crack | 12m | |||
16 | ★ 35 Degrees
Up short corner and wall through overlap and up to anchors. | 15m, 5 | |||
16 | ★ Breaking Dawn
Up through Rooflet to anchor. | 10m, 3 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Wild Dog | |||||
15 | ★ Gopher
Up to big bowl, then up to tree. All gear | 15m | |||
16 | Stoned
The second obvious crack to the right of 'Monkey Boots'. Crack to tree then Cnr crack to top. Beware loose rocks. Natural Pro and Belay. FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996 | 15m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Lama Land | |||||
16 | ★★ President Obama Lama
Tough opening sequence leading to the same, fun upper section. FA: Brian Cork, Ago 2016 | 8m, 5 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Strong Room | |||||
16 | ★ Hilti Hijackers
Good fun. Great warm up. Can take a medium cam between the 2nd and 3rd bolt to reduce the runout. FA: Jeff Gracie & Tim Hill, 1996 | 15m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Goodvibes Wall | |||||
15 | Corky's Crack
Up the nice corner crack, step left around the roof and then tend right to the bolts at the lip. FA: Brian Cork, 1997 | 15m | |||
16 | ★ Stealth Mode
About 2m right of Corkys Crack. Up the wall past 2 bolts and then through the rooflet on trad gear. Anchor bolts at the lip. A little bit spicy. FA: Brian Cork & Toby Holmes, 2012 | 15m, 2 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Pooh Wall | |||||
16 | Christopher Robbin: Toy Boy
Left most climb on Pooh Wall. 2 bolts to rings. FA: Paul Daniel & Tristan Ricketts, 2001 | 12m, 2 | |||
16 | ★ Pale Pooh Streak
15m right of ET. Up the big pale streak at the large tree. Up line of bolts to 2 large fixed hangers. | 12m | |||
16 | ★ The Enchanted Place
2m right of the pale streak. 2 bolts to chains. This climb is purposely run out, so take some natural pro for the breaks if that worries you. FA: Tristan Ricketts & Paul Daniel, 2001 | 12m, 3 | |||
15 | ★ Pooh Scoop
4m right of WTPGHH. Through the large scoop, six CARROT BOLTS to chains at back of large scoop at top. The position of these chains means the rope is running over an edge for the lower off but the chains at WTPGHH can be used as an alternative. Apparently this was set up as a trainer for lead climbing. | 14m, 6 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox The Motherlode | |||||
16 | Rabid
Natural crack split through blank slab to double ring belay FA: David Wagland, 2009 | 12m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Hero Wall | |||||
16 | ★ Release The Hounds
The Obvious trad corner crack in centre of wall. Up to ledge and anchors above FSA FFA: Brian Cork, 2011 | 12m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo 354 | |||||
16 | ★★ Camo Corner
Start on low step below large tree on set back ledge. On ledge three options to climb with the crack in the middle that takes two large cams (a #4 is handy). Easier line on the left. | ||||
15 | ★ Under-toe
Up the short corner past wire to tree, then easily up wide corner crack to anchors of Rubber Toe. Readily TR from these anchors if you don’t have big gear. | 18m | |||
16 | ★★ Rat Attack
Start up Chimney to ledge, then up beautiful corner crack to roof and traverse right under roof to anchors. | 17m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fun Parlour | |||||
16 | ★ Son Of A Beach
A funky looking crack left of the big overhang (ROOM WITH A VIEW), up crack and swing round small roof to your left, then to top. FA: A. Stephens, L. Dixon & G Stewart, 1987 | 8m | |||
16 | ★ Wasp
The next crack right of PLANET EARTH. A flared crack in a steep wall, hard jamming to top. FA: L. Dixon & M. Spence, 1988 | 8m | |||
16 | Giblets
A crack with a cave near the top. The first rack right of CHICKEN HEROES. Hard start then easier climbing to top. FA: L. Dixon, A. Stephens & R. Thomas, 1986 | 8m | |||
16 | ★ Hot Tap
The right hand corner of the "Shower Recess" Short but much harder than it looks. Sustained. FA: L. Dixon R. Thomas & A. Stephens, 1986 | 8m | |||
15 | Whip It
Whip it ... Whip it GOOD! This is good. The first crack on the next wall. A hand to fist crack, with crux near the top. FA: L. Dixon & I. Allen, 1985 | 8m | |||
16 | ★ Sandman
The next corner right of AND THE COOKED. A corner with a jam crack near the top, bridging, layaways and jams, it's got it all. FA: A. Stephens, W. (Image man) Fairly, R. Falls & L. Dixon, 1987 | 8m | |||
15 | Boot The Puss
2m right of PUS IN BOOTS. Up overhanging wall past crazy thread runner in roof, then cruise. FA: L. Dixon & Davey, 1989 | 8m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Sherwood Buttress | |||||
15 | ★★ Our Kind Of Sunday
3m left of Tink Tink. Climb delicately over horizontal rail feature to horizontal break at 3.5m for first piece of gear. Break takes small, medium cams, then up through flakes and pockets to top out. Small cams and wires near top. Natural belay. FFA: Thomas Gissing & Luciana Albuquerque | 8m | |||
16 | ★ Tink Tink
Farthest left bolted climb on cliff. 1 BR and medium wires. Natural belay FA: Danny Rose | 8m, 1 | |||
16 | ★ Love And Marriage
2m right of the left arete of the open book corner. Vere left above overhang. Finish left of tree. Natural Pro, tree belay. FA: Danny Rose | 8m | |||
15 | ★ Ethan's Tears
1m right of ‘Divorce’ upon delicate flaky holds. 1BR, crux past first bolt. Natural belay FA: Danny Rose | 8m, 1 | |||
16 | ★ Annulment
Flakes and edges 2m left of "what crack" FA: Toby Holmes | 8m | |||
16 | ★★ Sally The Race Car Driver
2m crack on west face FA: M. Kelly | 8m | |||
16 | ★★ Mango Jam | 12m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Kremnos Boulder | |||||
V0 | Cecil
SDS as per Scarlet Manuka but traverse R onto ramp. | 4m | |||
V0 | Iron Paw
SDS, face to R of arete. | 3m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Blowboy boulder | |||||
V0 | ★ Blowboy
Short and easy | 4m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Impossible Wall | |||||
V0 | Rangi
Slab in centre of face, left of chimney | 3m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones The Fortress | |||||
V0 | ★ Dolores
Highball face left of crack | 6m | |||
V0 | ★ Jess
Highball corner crack/slab | 5m | |||
V0 | ★ The Cry of the Grey Ghost
Highball crack | ||||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones The Alcove | |||||
V0 | Slabba Dabba Doo
Short, slabby face | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Shaggy
Prominent crack left of tree | 4m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones High Ball Wall | |||||
V0 | ★★★ One Eye and the Optometrist
Highball face, excellent climbing FFA: Artie Schultz, 2013 | 7m | |||
V0 R | ★★ Jug Rattler
Highball face, marginal R rating due to big rock in landing zone and possibly loose jug at 2/3 height FFA: Artie Schultz, 2013 | 7m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Orange Wall | |||||
V0 | ★ Sugar
Featured grey face left of tree | 6m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Jam and Cream Wall | |||||
V0 | ★★ Jam and Cream
Face 1 m right of arete | 4m | |||
V0 | ★★ Charred Remains
Featured face 1m right of tree. FA: Tara Everson, 3 Set 2017 | 5m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Oreo | |||||
V0 | ★ Left Oreo
Lefthand side of juggy face to ledge | 3m | |||
V0 | ★★ Oreo
Centre of juggy face to ledge | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Oreo Traverse
Traverse the prominent rail | 4m |