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Vie in New South Wales and ACT del grado selezionato

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Ordina per: Modifica in blocco (max 100)
Grado Via Stile equipaggiamento Popolarità
Northern Rivers Urbenville Battery Hill
15 Matt The Energizer Man

Climb ramp on R of notch to FH on bulge at 4m. Up beside white streak past 3 FH to stance L of "Cat in Nine" corner. Step up L on short vertical wall with ace buckets (FH) to long slab (FH). Chain belay on headwall shared with "Live Contact".

Sportiva 30m, 6
16 Don't Trust the Bunny

6m R of Yellow Brick Road. Up R of the rock orchards, through two steep sections on good holds. Thin, sustained climbing to clip 4 then easier to the top. 7 FHs to chains.

FA: Ross Miller & Richard Callf, 2006

Sportiva 24m, 7
16 Carbon Black

4m L of flake. Up the R-leaning weakness past 3 FHs to a stance - quite run out between clips 2 & 3. Step L (FH) and up steep section (FH) to easy climbing (FH) to chains. Rebolted in 2011 by SCQ.

The route is a waterfall after rain.

Sportiva 23m, 6
16 Ohm Sweet Ohm

A line of 5 FH's to the R of Itchy. Thin moves to 2nd FH and continue over bulge on good holds.

FA: Julie Stanton, Colin Carstens & Joanna Parker, 2006

Sportiva 16m, 5
15 Itchy

Great learner lead. 1m R of the two pines are 3 pockets that look like Mickey Mouse. Up to pockets and on to next FH. Crux moves to and over the next FH lead to jugs and vertical section (FH). Over this to good chain belay on back wall of ledge.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

Sportiva 18m, 5
15 Electrolyte

Scramble 6m up to large ledge. 1st FH below large hole (wasps removed). Continue through bulge passing 3 more FHs to chain belay shared with NASATV. Be warned of ants at 2/3 height.

FA: Bernard Walsh & Colin Carstens, 2005

Sconosciuto 22m, 4
Northern Rivers Urbenville The Crown
15 Slapp

Off block and follow seam to first BR at five metres. Up slab blipping colts to CB.

FA: Ken Cox

Sportiva 20m
15 Easement

Good, but a sandbag at its original grade of 13 if climbed directly. Start about 12m R of Urban Villain, in a shallow V. Climb up the V and step L onto a large ledge, the first BR is clipped from the ledge. From the ledge head up to orange overhang and lower-off. FH's and cams.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

Sportiva 30m
15 Wasted Days and Wasted Nights
  1. 35m (15) At top of ridge head up gentle slab to obvious corner. Up corner to where it eases and trends L. Ignore this (and the FH out L). Instead, step R into smaller corner and up to rap anchor at good stance.

  2. 30m (15) From chains head about 4m R and up water mark passing several BR's to steeper rock (FH's). Surmount this then up corner (ignoring unnecessary retrobolts) to lower-off just above she-oak.

FA: Ken Cox & Alistair Byrom

Trad 65m, 2
16 Wasted Days and Wasted Nights LHV
  1. As for p1 of Wasted Days and Wasted Nights

  2. Directly up from the belay following the line of FH's up the smooth slab, trending slightly L to chain belay.

FA: Peter Schmidt & James Fisher, 1996

Trad 20m, 2
15 Image is All

Start as for the previous two climbs. Head to the same bolt at the hole. Step down onto tooth and up R to ledge. From ledge follow BR's to chain belay.

FA: Alistair Byrom & M. Moran

Sportiva 35m
16 Streak

10m R. Apparently the streak up the vague L-facing corner has been done without bolts. Meander up to tree belay..

Trad 15m
15 Flotsam

Start about 4m R of Jetsom. Head straight up slab clipping BR's to chain belay.

FA: Ken Cox & Alistair Byrom, 1991

Sportiva 16m
Northern Rivers Urbenville Spot X
15 The Unknown X

Weirdness. Waaay right and up the hill at nearly the highest point was the first route bolted on this wall by persons unknown. One FH and then glue-in’s. I wonder if we’ll ever find out who did this and then walked away? Climbable with some loose rock still.

FFA: Unknown!

Sportiva 10m
Northern Rivers Urbenville Vesuvius
16 Pliny The Younger

As above, but split off left at the 8th FH up onto ledge for anchors. Belay from big ledge in canyon. 9 FH’s.PLEASE NOTE: all routes right of the Huge Chimney off limits during Falcon season (AUGUST-DECEMBER) Thankyou

FFA: John O'Brien & Nathan McNeil, 2014

Sportiva 25m, 9
Northern Rivers Mt. Warning Wollumbin Shield Tourist car park (Strangler fig climbing)
15 Tree star classic
Sconosciuto 20m
Northern Rivers Old Lismore Quarry
16 Stem Awhile
Sconosciuto 12m
Northern Rivers Chiusa Island Quarry
16 way
Sconosciuto 15m
Northern Rivers Byron Lowtide Boulders Life bouy rocks
V0 Lifebouy Strip

Sit start on jugs and continue upwards and top out

FA: Ben Send

Boulder
V0 Jugs ahoy

Sit start on obvious jugs and traverse left past cave like indent and top out

FA: Ben Send

Boulder
V0 Did somebody say dyno

Start on jug under small cave and dyno to top jug rail

FA: Ben Send

Boulder
Northern Rivers Surf Rock
15 two believe

One bolt at the top. start 2m right of JFF. up slab to corner then left to chain.

FFA: Za Utopia & Be Utopia., 2012

Trad mista 15m, 1
15 Sacred Union

Climb 2m left of BA, up slightly steeper face upto nose with sharp edges... use rope protector when abseiling in.

FA: Za Utopia, 2013

Trad 16m
15 Back in Black

Next climbs access from out the end of headland.2 m left of EJ about 15m right of moonlight drive.Climb big black slab wall

FFA: Za Utopia & Maxium, 2013

Trad 15m
16 outsiders

start inbetween EJ & CL. up slab wall over the nose

FA: Za Utopia, 2013

Trad 12m
15 take you home

start under roof 2m R of 3e.

FA: 2013

Corda dall'alto 10m
16 sea side style

start 2m right of razor fingers. up wall 2m then traverse left across RF on small ledge then straight up.

FA: 2012

Corda dall'alto 13m
V0 Fisherman's cast arête

The boulder is found another 50m on from the last rope climb. Local fisherman's spot. This was the first line climbed here, and the best. Beautiful laybacking with a heel hook up the right arête. The line is from a stand start but a sit start has also been done, maybe at a V1 but adds no value. Finish on the top of the boulder with a nice mantle.

FA: Taliesin St. john, 7 Lug 2021

Boulder 4m
Northern Rivers Lighthouse beach
V0 A5

Layaway right crack to jug and hand jam.

Boulder
V0 A8

Juggy slab with wide pinch.

Boulder
V0 Left traverse

Using all the good holds and traverse left at the horizontal break

FA: Gopal Thorburn

Boulder 3m
V0 Direct right

Move rightwards and up around the blunt arrest

Boulder 3m
V0 C1
Boulder
V0 C7

Up juggy arete avoiding both left and right blocks. High and narrow landing.

Boulder
V0 D3

In corner, up past fin.

Boulder
V0 D5

Juggy arete

Boulder
V0 D7

Cracks up face

Boulder
V0 D8

Jugs up arete.

Boulder
V0 J2

Avoid climbing over ledge on left!

Boulder
V0 J3

Jam crack to jugs at top.

Boulder
V0 J17

Often has dirty top out!

Boulder
V0 J21
Boulder
Northern Rivers Joggly point cave
V0 Cold Feet
Boulder
V0 Sea Legs
Boulder
Northern Rivers Turners beach
V0 Deserve the view

Start on the crimpy ledge on the left of the western face. Straight up

Boulder 3m
Northern Rivers Woodford Island See Sea Wall
15 Over the Top

Bridge start up slab to high reach after small roof to a jug near anchors.

Sportiva 8m
16 Next Level

Step off block, up on edges to jug on hanging flake and step onto ledge at anchors.

Sportiva 8m
16 Hung Over Drover
Sportiva 8m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Dusk Wall
15 Rock People

2m R of O.start right of blackboy. Small run out at the end. last break too dirty for gear. Anchor tree and boulder. Long slings.

FFA: Za Utopia & Darius Utopia, 1 Apr 2016

Trad 9m
16 Othila

Middle of wall . Start above blackboy climb up to base of tree. Tree anchor

FFA: Za Utopia & Be Utopia, 28 Mar 2016

Trad 9m
15 Eagle Clan

Left of Othila.

FA: Za/Be Utopia

Trad 9m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Twilight Zone
15 Carnage At The Mouse Machine

climbs the right leaning orange crack

Trad 12m
16 35 Degrees

Up short corner and wall through overlap and up to anchors.

Trad mista 15m, 5
16 Breaking Dawn

Up through Rooflet to anchor.

Sportiva 10m, 3
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Wild Dog
15 Gopher

Up to big bowl, then up to tree. All gear

Sconosciuto 15m
16 Stoned

The second obvious crack to the right of 'Monkey Boots'. Crack to tree then Cnr crack to top. Beware loose rocks. Natural Pro and Belay.

FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996

Trad 15m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Lama Land
16 President Obama Lama

Tough opening sequence leading to the same, fun upper section.

FA: Brian Cork, Ago 2016

Sportiva 8m, 5
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Strong Room
16 Hilti Hijackers

Good fun. Great warm up. Can take a medium cam between the 2nd and 3rd bolt to reduce the runout.

FA: Jeff Gracie & Tim Hill, 1996

Sportiva 15m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Goodvibes Wall
15 Corky's Crack

Up the nice corner crack, step left around the roof and then tend right to the bolts at the lip.

FA: Brian Cork, 1997

Trad 15m
16 Stealth Mode

About 2m right of Corkys Crack. Up the wall past 2 bolts and then through the rooflet on trad gear. Anchor bolts at the lip. A little bit spicy.

FA: Brian Cork & Toby Holmes, 2012

Trad mista 15m, 2
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Pooh Wall
16 Christopher Robbin: Toy Boy

Left most climb on Pooh Wall. 2 bolts to rings.

FA: Paul Daniel & Tristan Ricketts, 2001

Sportiva 12m, 2
16 Pale Pooh Streak

15m right of ET. Up the big pale streak at the large tree. Up line of bolts to 2 large fixed hangers.

Sportiva 12m
16 The Enchanted Place

2m right of the pale streak. 2 bolts to chains. This climb is purposely run out, so take some natural pro for the breaks if that worries you.

FA: Tristan Ricketts & Paul Daniel, 2001

Sportiva 12m, 3
15 Pooh Scoop

4m right of WTPGHH. Through the large scoop, six CARROT BOLTS to chains at back of large scoop at top. The position of these chains means the rope is running over an edge for the lower off but the chains at WTPGHH can be used as an alternative. Apparently this was set up as a trainer for lead climbing.

Sportiva 14m, 6
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox The Motherlode
16 Rabid

Natural crack split through blank slab to double ring belay

FA: David Wagland, 2009

Trad 12m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Hero Wall
16 Release The Hounds

The Obvious trad corner crack in centre of wall. Up to ledge and anchors above FSA

FFA: Brian Cork, 2011

Trad 12m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo 354
16 Camo Corner

Start on low step below large tree on set back ledge. On ledge three options to climb with the crack in the middle that takes two large cams (a #4 is handy). Easier line on the left.

Sportiva
15 Under-toe

Up the short corner past wire to tree, then easily up wide corner crack to anchors of Rubber Toe. Readily TR from these anchors if you don’t have big gear.

Trad 18m
16 Rat Attack

Start up Chimney to ledge, then up beautiful corner crack to roof and traverse right under roof to anchors.

Trad 17m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fun Parlour
16 Son Of A Beach

A funky looking crack left of the big overhang (ROOM WITH A VIEW), up crack and swing round small roof to your left, then to top.

FA: A. Stephens, L. Dixon & G Stewart, 1987

Trad 8m
16 Wasp

The next crack right of PLANET EARTH. A flared crack in a steep wall, hard jamming to top.

FA: L. Dixon & M. Spence, 1988

Trad 8m
16 Giblets

A crack with a cave near the top. The first rack right of CHICKEN HEROES. Hard start then easier climbing to top.

FA: L. Dixon, A. Stephens & R. Thomas, 1986

Trad 8m
16 Hot Tap

The right hand corner of the "Shower Recess" Short but much harder than it looks. Sustained.

FA: L. Dixon R. Thomas & A. Stephens, 1986

Trad 8m
15 Whip It

Whip it ... Whip it GOOD! This is good. The first crack on the next wall. A hand to fist crack, with crux near the top.

FA: L. Dixon & I. Allen, 1985

Trad 8m
16 Sandman

The next corner right of AND THE COOKED. A corner with a jam crack near the top, bridging, layaways and jams, it's got it all.

FA: A. Stephens, W. (Image man) Fairly, R. Falls & L. Dixon, 1987

Trad 8m
15 Boot The Puss

2m right of PUS IN BOOTS. Up overhanging wall past crazy thread runner in roof, then cruise.

FA: L. Dixon & Davey, 1989

Trad 8m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Sherwood Buttress
15 Our Kind Of Sunday

3m left of Tink Tink.

Climb delicately over horizontal rail feature to horizontal break at 3.5m for first piece of gear. Break takes small, medium cams, then up through flakes and pockets to top out. Small cams and wires near top. Natural belay.

FFA: Thomas Gissing & Luciana Albuquerque

Trad 8m
16 Tink Tink

Farthest left bolted climb on cliff. 1 BR and medium wires. Natural belay

FA: Danny Rose

Trad mista 8m, 1
16 Love And Marriage

2m right of the left arete of the open book corner. Vere left above overhang. Finish left of tree. Natural Pro, tree belay.

FA: Danny Rose

Trad 8m
15 Ethan's Tears

1m right of ‘Divorce’ upon delicate flaky holds. 1BR, crux past first bolt. Natural belay

FA: Danny Rose

Trad mista 8m, 1
16 Annulment

Flakes and edges 2m left of "what crack"

FA: Toby Holmes

Sconosciuto 8m
16 Sally The Race Car Driver

2m crack on west face

FA: M. Kelly

Trad 8m
16 Mango Jam

Scramble up face to where the crack starts in a bulge next to grass tree. Pull through bulge, then nice jams to the top.

FFA: Scott & Mitchy, 15 Nov 2021

Trad 12m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Kremnos Boulder
V0 Cecil

SDS as per Scarlet Manuka but traverse R onto ramp.

Boulder 4m
V0 Iron Paw

SDS, face to R of arete.

Boulder 3m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Blowboy boulder
V0 Blowboy

Short and easy

Boulder 4m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Impossible Wall
V0 Rangi

Slab in centre of face, left of chimney

Boulder 3m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones The Fortress
V0 Dolores

Highball face left of crack

Boulder 6m
V0 Jess

Highball corner crack/slab

Boulder 5m
V0 The Cry of the Grey Ghost

Highball crack

Boulder
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones The Alcove
V0 Slabba Dabba Doo

Short, slabby face

Boulder 3m
V0 Shaggy

Prominent crack left of tree

Boulder 4m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones High Ball Wall
V0 One Eye and the Optometrist

Highball face, excellent climbing

FFA: Artie Schultz, 2013

Boulder 7m
V0 R Jug Rattler

Highball face, marginal R rating due to big rock in landing zone and possibly loose jug at 2/3 height

FFA: Artie Schultz, 2013

Boulder 7m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Orange Wall
V0 Sugar

Featured grey face left of tree

Boulder 6m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Jam and Cream Wall
V0 Jam and Cream

Face 1 m right of arete

Boulder 4m
V0 Charred Remains

Featured face 1m right of tree.

FA: Tara Everson, 3 Set 2017

Boulder 5m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Oreo
V0 Left Oreo

Lefthand side of juggy face to ledge

Boulder 3m
V0 Oreo

Centre of juggy face to ledge

Boulder 3m
V0 Oreo Traverse

Traverse the prominent rail

Boulder 4m
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