Vie in Sydney Metropolitan del grado selezionato

Start on the small pocket with left hand(not some pile of rocks) then to a ok knob before a monkey along the roof of the cave past RBs to lower-offs. 18 if you start on the cairn. Variant top out via the mantle (21).

Best 21 in Sydney. Nice and pumpy on big holds. Rebolted 2008

Sit start at the arete with butt on the ground and hands on the shelf.

There is lots of sitting on your arse for this one! Sit down for the first jug, then up, have a seat for the next move, up again and over … sterling!

Phillip Booth

A great wall route with excellent features. Juggy pockets to start, then a few tricky moves to gain big left facing flake. Also makes quite a nice trad route, throw a few extra cams in to protect the start.

Another crag classic. Made even more so after rebolting. Up through pockets then 'blank' wall to finish. Start: 1m right of 'Natasha'. Anchor added on slab on left.

Start: Right end of the cliff, left of crack. Obvious. Either rap from anchor at the back of the ledge, lower from base of Arete on R (Hectic Penguins). Should continue up Hectic Penguins for the full line.

One of the best short aretes in the Shire. The left arête of the wall with heaps of fun technical moves. 3 ring bolts and lower-off.

Up yet another thin route

Start: 1m right of 'Yesterday's Heroes'

Go direct, left of the original start for MF, past two rings.

Start: 2m left of MF

2m right of BS. Crag classic up the highest part of this crag. A long featured wall climb with lots of stainless.

Don't dodge the crux if you want the full tick - it goes!

Fun sea sport cliffing with the usual mix of choss and pleasure. Loses the sun in summer by 11am. Retrobolts half of the first pitch of Karen's Climb then does a long direct finish. Take about 11 draws and 2 slings for belays.

Several climbers has been threatened with fines by police for climbing this route (September 2019). The police are called out because locals think climbers are suicidal people ready to jump. Police deal with over 50 suicides a year along this coastline. Wear climbing helmets and try and look like a climber as much as possible. When belaying at the top be friendly to people walking past. It's best to rap back down the route rather than climb the fence and walk off.

Down Rosa Gully and up the ladder, then walk along the ledge 15m above the sea for 100m to a small honeycombed ramp about 40m R of Obscurity (ringbolted corner).

1. 28m (19) Up ramp to weird mantel then up and left to belay. Originally given 15 on trad!

2. 12m (18) Leftwards below choss and up right to belay.

3. 10m (20) Up to roof and a few stiff moves. Double U belay. Small 'stile' to help you over the sharp picket fence.

Popular route, up thin crimps. Will probably be the hardest route at the crag in 10 years if the holds keep disappearing.

Start: Immediately right of 'Dangerous Currents'

Start just left of the Cathedral cave. Only 20, if you dont do the last move. Direct extension is closed project.

Up and heading slightly right, up and over to overhang and roof top.

Climb through steep terrain to finish at the anchors of Raisin' Hell.

Potential bad fall in to ledge around the 3rd bolt - don't blow it! belayers stay sharp! funky moves upside down and behind the head...

Start: 2m right of Raisin' Hell

Rightwards on slopiness then up nose, all the holds are in the wrong place, it traverse right around arete up high. Desperate but fun climbing

Good crack climb, lots of nuts for reassurance.

Delicate start to tough overhang mantle. from ledge walk right finding large hidden jug side-pull(for shorties you can equip draw from this hold and clip). Positive crimp rail on right side of arete above bolt, then airy traverse back onto main face.Easy mantle to chain anchors on top of cliff.

You'd better scope out the top of this one first! Up horizontal breaks to lovely rounded holds on top.

Start: Sit

Mauricio Chino

A true heist with only the correct beta can you unlock this climb, thin start to funky crux. Anchors in roof.

Marked KK. Middle line on this wall with a couple of funky pockets. Three Ubolts to shared lower-off with 'NFM'.

Start from the ground (don't skip first few moves by standing on the block).

Right side of the pillar to a high finish on the pebbly jug. Pretty good.

Phillip Booth

Start as for Iron Chef then head right after the fixed hanger. Shares first ring with Into the Void.

Start at the big jug with a few big desperate moves to the end. Finish halfway up the wall

Start with a left hand press on the sloped feature around waist height and head up via some beautiful holds to a fun topout.

Phillip Booth

A fun bolted wide crack that involves no thrutching. Bomber hand jam to start which almost immediately widens to an off-width corner. Tricky finish through the roof to finish. Retro-bolted.

Start 1.5 m R of Gushing Knees. Hardest of the 3 'easy' routes. Share a hold with Necropolis Kidney then up and left to share anchors with Gushing Knees. (clip 1st bolt with a single screwgate to limit fall distance and unclipping)

Marked, Up wall on new RBs, share RB of D. Just right of corner crack

Face just right of corner with ringbolts.

Crag classic. Marked, 1m right of 'Mompox' "Perfectly" chipped holds leading up to left of the grassy pocket, past 4 BRs, then left of the seam through the crux, passing final BR to lower off. Double BB anchor for top roping. Seeps for a week after heavy rain.

The bolted crack line 5m R of Wacky Tabacki. Mostly laybacking and climbing the left arete but a jamb or two may be needed. Has been lead on large natural gear if you don't like Ubolts

Marked. Bouldery start (BR) then move past 2nd BR to break. easy going to the top.

Start: 3m left of the corner.

2m left of SIC. 2 rings, shared lower-off with Sports Injury Clinic.

Right hand in the incut pocket, straight up.

Climb steep arete then up head wall.

Start: Right 'Arete' on the Cave of Soap

Hard start (bolted) then a fairly easy trad finish. No lower off.

As for Technorabble, but avoids the crux by moving right, you can clip the 4th bolt from the jugs, then up and traverse L to 5th bolt and up.

Start well left of bolt then right to lower off.

Start: Starts 3m left of KK.

Great sustained wall climbing up sloping dishes. Tricky rounded top out, or cheat and lower-off the top anchors.

Rebolted August 2015.

Interesting moves the whole way. This climbs the corners on the left edge of the big cave some 13m R of Matts Climb. Start up irritating slab or walk R and up into the cave and walk left to the line, step down to bolt belay. Up the line to a double U lower off (or topout to a 3 ring anchor 10m higher over the top). It replaces an old sandbag 15 (!) Jurds on Toast which probably climbed the start a bit further left then continued up the corner past 2 carrots (still rusting). Sling added after rockfall.

Start low on verical pocket and crimper. The top out mantle is a bit slippery, have a crash mat and spotter for the FA.

A prominent rounded boulder sits atop the rock platform above and 15m to the right of PWCB. The climb is marked.

Atmospheric. Good moves up steep, sandy pockets. 2 RBs to double RB lower off.

Layback the right arete of the boulder face.

Cute juggy arete behind big tree

Rooflet then sandy breaks. Bolt on lip has been replaced.

Start: 1m right of 'Comausminpab'.

Sit start below the rooflet on right facing horn. Don't forget to top out!

Exposed roof swinging on good jugs. Start in orange rock 15m R of Areeba. Right side of cave and traverse L along lip. Easiest to lean right and set up lower off from rings on top of right-hand route (Jeff's Wall)

Steep climbing on excellent rock. Corner to start then right along high break under roof to final cruxy mantle.

Start: 1m L of Ringo's Revenge. Up sparsely pocketed wall, past 3 RB's and then up flake. Chain lower off.

A great warm up route. Great climbing on Good holds, over hang to sting in the tail.

The left arete of 'Walkdown Wall'

Start on slopey jugs and head straight up.

Classic bit of the traverse. Crux is near the arete, and its easier to go low at the arete.

Hard Men do a higher level traverse using good crimpers near the top.

Burly start right of SM, with a bit of a move to start.

Starting in the cave at the break, traverse the easiest line right all the way to the next cave.

Many variants with the most notable being to remain roughly same level as starting jugs until joining up with 'The Extractor' at flat jug in middle of scoop.

Left of yellow streak and up overhung boulder

The face to the left, crimpy ironstone. The left side of the face is slightly thinner and harder.

Crimpy stuff to the left of Discontinuous crack

Great line climbing through some of the best features of the Orange Wall, with loads of good holds on great rock! Up the lower ledge, up passing the "hueco" into to a balancy move to the anchors.

Excellent climbing finishing in strange laybacking up a runnel. Once again, almost a sport climb if you carry a sling for the big jug above the second bolt on OA. As for OA for 10m (past 2 RBs and a sling runner). Then move left (bolt) and straight up the thin slab above, move left to lower off.

Easy looking wall 10m L of where the track hits the cliff. Start behind a nice block for sunbathing.

Crag classic. 2nd of the major orange streaks starting in front of a small multi-trunked tree. Easy start then long move off sidepull to gain rail. Up and left on crimps then better holds but pumpy moves up and back right through rooflet at top.

Aleksandra Balyanova

Start in corner 3m L of Skullduggery, up and right then up rounded buttress finishing on right. Reachy and rounded. Recently rebolted.

There is a common variant of this route that uses the same bolts, but involves traversing to the right of the bulge towards Skullduggery between the first and second clip, then heading to the top on good holds. This skips the crux of the main route and changes the grade to a 16 or 17.

About 3m R of Head Injuries, head up the flake and steep wall on left of crack, bridge into crack for a move at 6th bolt. Without bridging 23!

From the big jug a couple of metres right of the corner, go straight up to the sandy jugs. The back wall is off for your feet

Start: Below traverse line, 3m left of S. Groovy move to start, then out traverse line and up arete.

Start: 3m right of PS, up steep scoops over bulge.

Stand Start on big undergoing on the far LHS of the roof. Climb straight up through juggy pockets and a high pinch. Don't underestimate the topout or the terrible landing.

A balancy start to a pumpy finish up the left feature. 3 U's to lower offs.

Batman start directly below the grey streak left of the middle of the main wall, or traverse in from Kaos ledge. Crank onto wall using tiny holds, and straight up past 3 bolts. Had a free start (27), before a key hold was pulled off.

Packs some punch for a 7m climb. Well chalked mini route left of the corner.

Start: 1m L of GFH. Good gear and takes wires well. Excellent lay back crack climb and well worth the effort. Toprope/lower-off anchor at top

Shortest stamina route in the Shire. Start up Zip then left along traverse line through roof and up. Right to Zip anchors or backjump (easier)

Right slabby arete of western side. Usually pretty sandy. Bad fall

Smearing up the overlaps left of the arete

Take care not to use the chip for your foot. or deduct a grade.

Stand start on left jug around corner and slot on face.

Start: 5m right of CC. Middle of wall following obvious ramp. 8 RB's to DRB.

Regardless of whether you have been "born from an egg on a mountain top" You'll no doubt enjoy this problem. Start on the face covered in features, which juts out the most. Move straight up the defined holds to the same sandy ledge that Easy Up and Piked From The Start finish on (right above you). For best Kung Fu practice climb back down in reverse.

No using magic clouds...

1m L of MPC. 2ubolts

Up steep terrain over small roof to lower offs. 3 RB's to lower offs. Warning: falling while trying to clip the top anchors may result in a ground fall. This clip is the hardest part of the climb. Wear a helmet

Start: 3m right of WF

Killer start up to first Ring Bolt. Can be done as a mixed route.

Start: 1m left of Pitted Arete

Rebolted 2009

Fun eliminate. Start as for Cruel Sea and Aquarius using just the lip holds, then go straight up to the crimp and top out right.

Use the large edge to the right of the arete, move past a pocket and rail to top.

Climb up and out of hole to a nice seat before an'interesting' mantle.

Start: Sit

About 30m R of the Main Wall is a smooth wall. Scramble up onto the ledge and find line of RBs and old carrots 2m R of a painted "K" on the wall. Move slightly right to lower off (shared with VLP).

Contrived face right of 'A1' and left of the scoopy cave that belongs to 'Burning Shells'.

Stay direct and avoid the jugs to the right for grade 20 or ignore the convolution and use anything within reach for grade 19.

Big ugly U Bolts that finishes prematurely well below the top of the cliff. That start is protected by a fixed hanger or stick clip the first U Bolt.

One of the best 21’s in Sydney! Up over mantle, into corner, traverse left on face and then traverse back right to exciting finish! Mega!

Great steep climbing which stays dry in almost any weather. Straightened out and easier version of Forever is Hard To Imagine. Two u-bolts up face to ledge. Swing left across horizontal then up juggy steep stuff to final roof move to clip anchor on lip.

On the right-facing wall just left of In Depth corner. Directly up middle of this little wall, shares anchors with Python. Not exactly a sport route when there is one carrot 4m up . Really runout easy to deck. Dare Devil sports climb.

Start with your right hand in the large pocket and move up via pinches. Finish off right.

21, every move! Wall left of PL/LD. Either boulder start on pockets , or easier (19?) bridge up corner to break.

Up and out through roof of cave, clipping second ring before heading to lip to avoid grounder. 4 RB's & U's to lower offs.

Shared start with MaF, then up right of the vertical seem to a steep finish.

Quality climbing on nice edges (just find the good bits).

A little contrived: Stay out of the crack of 'Offalwidth' (and obviously anything left of it also) to earn the grade 21.

Lower-off anchor right on top of cliff.

A no-foot variant of 'I'm too sexy by far'.

The problems name says it all. Sit start below the obvious feature. Head straight up and top out.

Mini juggy roof, nowra South Central style! 2m R of CC. The R hand mini route through the lower cave/roof.

From the central underclings, move to the large break then up via the pocket, or forget the break and dyno from the undercling straight up to the pocket.

Start 1m R of Necropolis Kidney and 2m left of the corner (Vintage Cuvee). Up and around roof, bridging into Vintage Cuvee for a move. Reachy.