Vie in Australia del grado selezionato

Discontinuous cracks.

Start: Start just L of 'Revolver Crack'.

Crack to horizontal break, then go 2m right and up crack.

Start: 1m left of small cave on the grey wall just left of the descent gully.

A nice little line. Start up the left edge of the orange wall, then step right and proceed up the weakness on good holds.

Layback for 5m then step right into crack.

Start: Start 5m right of 'Cobb & Co'.

Move left to the sparsely protected smooth wall facing the road.

Start: As for 'Deck Gully' but move left and up, finishing past the small overhang.

Good beginner's lead.

Start just left of the plaque and right of the small overhang. Climb the wall between 'Hammer' and 'Slip Knot'.

An obscure choice for this era when almost all the other classics of 'Arapiles' were still unclimbed! For over thirty years guidebooks placed this climb in the wrong gully. The good news is that no-one has missed it. Some awful rock.

Start a few metres right of A Sore Finger. There's a wonky letter S painted somewhere.

1. 22m (7) The loose juggy crack to a large ledge.

2. 32m (7) R and up loose dangerous rib.

3. 12m (-) Scramble off.

Probably worthless but no-one has definitely located it.

Start about 60 metres up King Rat Gully where the left side becomes a short juggy wall. Prairie starts at the steep line 2 metres right of a corner.

Up the crack on good holds until a ledge at 25m. Traverse off left along tis ledge.

Follow Lizard Procrastination to the ledge below the final overhang. Head up and right on juggy wall to ledge on right arete. Step back left and up steep juggy crack to top.

Completely redundant by today's standards...but then again it was another era back then, even pre-metric.

Start: Start just R of T.

Up the crack.

Start: Start under the L crack on the main face.

Diagonal crack.

Start: Start just R of P.

This is probably what Noddy has written up as Marbles in Argus, but graded 11!. Start 4m left of Pure and Simple, just right of a flake sticking up out of the ground. Head straight up. Good gear and climbing the whole way.

Start at the top of TK, at the south side of the slot. Chimney out above the Keyhole towards Central Gully, then move around arete onto the south face of Bluff Minor, which is easy but exposed, to bag the summit.

A gentle ramble with spectacular views all the way. Sort of a companion route to Spiral Staircase. The name also derives from the fact that the first ascent team had a combined age of 269, and featured more than 200 years of climbing experience. Starts between West Coast Dogma and Sombrero, where there is an obvious ledge 2m above the ground.

1. 30m Mantelshelf onto the ledge and continue up and left to a nice flat ledge.

2. 20m Up easily from the left end of the ledge for 3-4m. An unlikely traverse left around bulge at the horizontal break (nice exposure) leads to the base of a gulch. The enigmatic Duck Crag is up on the right.

3. 40m Follow the shoulder all the way to the top.

The "obvious" right-facing corner on the wall right of Sombrero, then the left of twin lines up the headwall.

Take the clean orange slab above the southern edge of Duck Crag, finishing on the left side of the summit block.

The major corner-chimney bounding the left side of the black slab, mainly climbed on the slab.

Twin cracks 2 metres right of Barefoot In The Park.

Climb the front of the clean rib about 12m left of Wedding Tackle.

Crack 5 metres right of 'Tschumpel', 1 metre left of 'Bindi'.

An old fashioned line, or is that lane, as in bus? Good.

Start: Between Lou and 'Stone Age' there is an obvious large chimney in the middle of a sizeable wall. This line is 'Mermaid Avenue'.

Not as good as first thought but not bad and shady for most of the day. Usually done in one pitch.

Start below the right of two obvious weaknesses right of Acapulco Gold.

1. 12m (7) Follow line to good ledge on right.

2. 18m (7) Step left then up line. When gully is reached, either climb easy wall on right or traverse easily right on narrow ledge to rap anchor of Serpent.

Not a bad lead with enough gear in horizontal breaks (take cams) and interesting moves in between.

Wide corner crack right of 'Myles'.

The right-facing corner to large blocks at the top.

Start: Start about 35 metres up the gully above 'Cuscus'.

The series of lines to the roof, step right and up.

Start: Start several metres left of "Pygmy Possum".

The left-hand of two corners facing the valley.

Up the corner 7 metres right of 'E Pluribus Unum' and finish right.

Left 1.5m of 'Staying Grey'. Follow obvious jugs up diagonally left to narrow slot in face that leads to V-break.

Move left up ramp, 1m left of Y-Fronts, to crack and up.

2m left of 'Pension Days'. Up through shallow cracks and breaks.

Start on the white rock on the South East corner. Up to horizontal break, then follow this left 4m. Through tree to shallow corner above, move left to finish.

Between Big Chimney Corner and Volksgrenadier is a well trodden expanse of easy rock. Up anywhere. FA Unknown

I can see them queuing for this. Cracks 9m R of 'Cesspool', 3m L of blocks.

A chasm. The chimney/gully between 'The Green Wall' and 'Taipan Wall'. Lots of scrambling and some roped climbing. The initial chimney often flows with water for long periods after rain.

The crack, followed by a juggy wall.

Start: The L-most and widest of three cracks in the wall.

Up the wide crack to halfway then up the juggy R arete to the top.

Start: Start at the wide crack just R of 666.

Long and sustained at the grade. Amazingly neglected considering the hordes which swamp the much smaller 'Back Wall' only 20m away.

Start: Start 3-4m L of SiS beneath the deep black corner/crack up high.

Has some loose rock.

4m right of Boots And All. There may be two ferns in a crack here. Up to small roof and over this.

Makes a pleasant little climb. From below the overhang move right and continue to the top.

On the grey face near where the boulders form a cave. Go up the short obvious corner, then walk up the easy slab and onto the right hand edge of the face by which you gain the summit.

“Guarantees not to tax you, but it‘s a bit suss". Back on the main cliff, the large flake / chimney about one third of the way along the wall.

Starts from the RH end of the long overlap - scramble up slab to a ledge to start. Move L above the overlap and climb the corner until it breaks up. Move L above roof, and up.

Up the RH branch of the main central chimney.

Arete R of Dungeon to roof, step R, up.

Left edge of back wall. Crack to roof, then step right and through roof.

On top of main cliff. When looking from Car Park (feature on top of cliff) to-wards summit a block with a corner-crack is visible. From stance at top of corner, climb groove.

Worthless.

Start: Supposed to start at initials 100 metres up the Giants Staircase. Not located yet.

1. 30m (7) Up to large horizontal crack and on to scrubby ledge at 12 metres. Traverse 5 metres right to an undercut crack and up this for 6 metres. Move right and up scrubby chimney to tree.

2. 9m (-) Move left behind the huge boulder. Climb up to an overhang, move left and finish up a groove.

Middle of wall, topout on jug to the right.

2m R of Yin and Yang. Up over the boulder into the chimney that takes a direct line to the top.

The thin crack 2m R of Dodgem Delight. Continue up veering R to move up the crack between Dodgem Delight and Yang and follow R side of buttress to top.

Up face left of cave, follow chimney crack, up and under large balancing rock, round left and up to finish. Vertical cam crack on right above climb for belay.

The deep right hand line. Start from the lower tier.

Simple and easiest line up middle wall.

Probably the vegetated gully system right of 'Trilogy'

Originally desribed as an impressive corner chimney line. Sounds pretty awful.

Start: The SE 'Grampians' Guide says 300m L of Lactic Buildup and 20m L of a boulder choke at the foot of the cliff. The original description said 250 yards [230m] L of the descent gully. Look for a massive corner/chimney up high. Supposedly initialled.

1. 35m (7) Up very scrubby broken rock to the foot of the chimney

2. 17m (7) Chimney passing inside of chockston.

3. 15m (7) Up

Front of buttress left of Pommy Granite.

Fun but short.

Start: About 15m west of "Mookie" is a 15m high pillar that's hard to miss. This route climbs the south (easiest) side. Appears to be a direct version of 'Moomba'.

Start: Start below the right of three large chimney-cracks angling sharply to the left.

1. 34m (7) Start on massive jugs and continue up and left into the line. Belay out on the left wall when the crack bends sharpest to the left.

2. 45m (7) Climb the left wall to the top.

A great climb up a huge corner leads to a fragile finish.

Start: Start below the huge corner marking the right side of an impressive blank wall.

1. 50m (7) Climb the huge corner until the rope runs out.

2. 40m (-) Continue up the line until it runs out and finish up the juggy wall.

Left the first ascentists speechless. The left hand line.

1. 40m (7) Climb mossy rock to ledge.

2. 40m (7) The gutter above is clean and has the biggest jugs that you will ever see.

The better of the easy routes.

Climb the right hand line with a choice of belay spots.

Quick way to the top if you have a trad rack!

A rather irrelevant climb taking the centre of the smoothest part of the slab just right of the big corner. The bulges are avoided by diverging into the corner at those points.

May be a repeat of "A Soft Furry Thing". As you walk past the southern face of the 'Mountain Lion' there is a slab with a broken corner with two cracks.

Start 7 metres left of "Not Christians For Dinner Again" at crack separating the detached block from the main face.

Follow the main crack until it gets too narrow then continue up right side of buttress.

Crouch start on lowest part of lip near cliffline. Rising traverse on lip all the way to the highest point meeting with J.S Memorial Choss

Pleasant bridging up the wide chimney at the left end of the overhanging wall.

Not to be confused with the route of the same name at Muline. Take the right-hand chimney then up the orange corner above to pull through the "eye" (a gap in the small roof).

This and next micro-route are behind the Lion's Head itself. From the top of Decapitating Tweety Birds walk back to the juggy wall immediately behind the back wall of the Lion's Head. On the right arete is a narrow strip of rock in an airy position. Climb the narrow band of smooth rock on the arete.

Start: Start in broken corner-cum-gully 90 metres right of where the track hits the cliff. This is directly below the step in the huge roofs high up and a forked gumtree 40 metres up.

1. 44m (7) Climb the corner to the large. vegetated ledge.

2. 28m (7) Climb the small buttress, tending right to a large chimney.

3. 44m (7) Move up and traverse right into the chimney. Continue up the line to a belay above some bushes.

4. 46m (7) Up the line to belay amongst the jugs.

5. 6m (-) Scramble up to the terrace. Walk to the juggy arete on the left.

6. 42m (7) Climb the arete, move right, along the ledge and up the weakness to the top.

Climb the left line to the roof and exit left.