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Great climbing up the clean streak starting 15 metres left of 'Watchtower Chimney'.

1. 45m (20) Straight up the clean streak passing small bulge to tiny stance level with base of chimney on 'Watchtower Chimney'. There's an unprotected move of about grade 16-17 at 7 metres.

2. 40m (19) Up short crack then slab to ledge. Straight up left-hand streak then step right to tricky last move to 'Rotten Row'. Alternatively, from the ledge take the right-hand streak (21) to 'Rotten Row' (WOTAS is just to the right). Graham Sanders, Steve Howden 10-10-1982.

3. 48m (17) From the tree, move left a little then follow the clean streak to the top, crossing Wall Of The Afternoon Sun at the horizontal break.

Originally named "Pantouflage Direct Start", with the directions to continue up Watchtower Chimney. From this you can deduce hat we thought of one climb and which guidebook editor lacked a sense of humour.

Crack 3 metres right of 'Take Five' and 6 metres left of 'Watchtower Chimney'. When it fades continue boldly up to join 'Watchtower Chimney'.

An excellent test-piece pitch and a very bold onsight lead by Maureen back in the day. The grey seam on the slabby wall immediately L of Watchtower Chimney is gained via the concave slab and wall just L of the bulging nose. Awkward and unprotected moves gain the nose, then the seam is climbed until it runs out. Take a deep breath and keep going boldly up the slab to the traverse on Watchtower Chimney. At the ancient carrot bolt, continue straight up the enjoyable crack to a narrow ledge. The original route moved L and finished up the easy arete but it is much more enjoyable to climb the unlikely wall directly above to the lower-off (35m) anchors. There is a 50m wandering finish that no one does. David Gallagher and Sue Baxter seconded the second half of the described pitch as they originally split the pitch at the carrot bolt. Glenn Tempest added the independent start and straightened the pitch near the top in July 2018.

The first pitch meanders a bit but it does offer some very pleasant climbing. It ends at the shared lower-off / rappel anchors of Shingleback . Originally climbed with further juggy pitches to the top of the Watchtower but they’re probably not worth the wander. Climb the seam immediately R of the start of Watchtower Chimney, which it joins near to its traverse. At the traverse, step 1m L and climb the lovely crack above (same as for Shingleback). After 4m leave the crack and traverse R across and up the wall to to gain an orange L-facing corner. Up this and move over L to the belay / rappel anchors on the ledge.

Or... start up Watchtower Chimney and on the traverse left, go up the seam over bulge, and lower off at 30m.

Two interesting pitches that used to be thought very bold. But times change. Apparently gear can be found on the first pitch and Keith Egerton proved that even hexentrics in the horizontal breaks on the second pitch were adequate for 10 metre falls. The second pitch has cleaned up enormously over the years.

Start: Usually started by climbing 'The Confession' as the first pitch. Belay on the ring-bolts at the top of pitch 1 of 'Auto Da Fe'.

1. 25m (18) up and through the overlaps. Traverse left above second overlap then up wall veering left into 'Skink'.

2. 30m (20) Go up to a peg on the left arete. Step left and weave your way up the wall until it eases. Continue up and finish direct over the final overlap.

The superb second pitch has only one drawback, the possibility of being knocked off by an abseil rope from above.

This was an extremely bold, mossy lead before the abseil route went in. Nowadays most leaders keep waiting for the scary runout bit and discover that the gear is fine.

Start midway between 'Auto Da Fe' and 'Gecko' below the abseil line.

1. 45m (17) Unprotected to bulge at 6 metres. Continue up to the abseil chains, keeping religiously between the other climbs.

2. 45m (20) From just left of chains go boldly up clean streak. At horizontal, step right to tricky moves leading to easier ground. Up to overlap, step left, up overhang and to top abseil bolts.

Good climbing. Crux bulge is protected by a bolt. Originally graded 16.

Right leading diagonal crack, left of Ice is Nice. Step off block at diagonal crack and follow to under cling where you can step right to vertical crack, head up this and over small roof, to ledge. Some suspect looking rock, but nothing cam off after it was hauled on and kicked. You can rap off Ice is Nice

A solid, intimidating lead with just enough protection. Very impressive for 1967.

Up Puss n Boots and - instead of stepping left to finish easily up Claw - go right then up.

This variant is more sustained than the original, but it does go very close to Siamese Crack (and it also goes past a suspect flake towards the top - but there are good holds on the face to avoid pulling on it).

Surprisingly steep climbing. Take the time to make sure that the protection in the horizontal breaks is secure as you are going to come very close to the ground, and the block, if something pulls. Start from the big block right of the overhung area.

Great little line up between Hendrix and Footloose, albeit vanishingly independent up higher.

In a similar style to Hendrix, it can be amusing to watch pumped leaders lose form and begin to flail for the top. You can go straight up - off a shallow midsize cam, or diagonally left to finish as for Hendrix (better and better protected). Start 3m R of Hendrix at easy crack.

Start as for Felix and then move right at ledge and through weetbix rock to gain crack. Build anchor and stay roped up for traverse to Spastical Cats anchor.

Start as for Tactical Cats then against all good taste, across the weetbix and up to hollow flake where the one move of the route lies above a bolt. Finish up right on steep but straightforward climbing to anchor.

An enjoyable, intricate route. Start 8m R of Practical Cats, just right of overhang at ground level.

A pretty exciting wall climb which requires a good head to deal with the small wire protection and unconventional moves prior to the bolt. 1st pitch ends at a rap chain, but the 2nd pitch shouldn't be ignored.

Start: Start at the left-facing flake corner about halfway along the wall (Start of Celluloid Heroes).

1. 27m (20) Climb crack or left wall for 4 metres and then move onto the right wall. Continue onwards with fiddly protection then bolts leading to roof. Move right beneath roof to vertical step and up to stance at higher roof.

2. 27m (17) Traverse left under roof to tricky move and lip then more easily up.

A much bolder proposition to the original route. Starts right of the corner and joins the original line at the mantle (small ledge), then continue as for that route.

A daunting traverse below the huge roof on the right-hand half of 'Tjuringa Wall'. If not always great climbing, it's certainly a great experience.

Take a large cam or two. Very large cams or tubes would help but are not essential. The final pitch could be quite amusing without double ropes or the skills to back-rope with a single.

1. 27m (20) As for Stanger's Eliminate.

2. 35m (19) Traverse right to stance and anchor for 'Tjuringa'.

3. 24m (20) Continue right past end of roof, drop down off lip of overhang and pull in to right. Traverse right to In Lieu's belay cave. Traverse off right.

The all too obvious corner/crack/offwidth provides a good workout.

1. 18m (19) Pleasant short flake-crack to ledge. Now fight your way into the bottomless slot. From the chimney, swing over the next overhang and belay in recess.

2. 34m (17) Step out right and traverse past two old bolts. The route originally traversed off right but it's much better at second bolt to climb bulge and then flake corner above.

A contrasting second pitch with good rock and protection. From the recess Step up right onto stance. up and left via incuts and slots surmounting the overlap on its left. Left past bolt then directly up. At top step left to anchors on Common Knowledge

Bridge up block then climb up and left to flake then big move straight up. From ledge head straight up and then right to DBB

Arete left of 'Bolero'.

No protection.

Layback flake middle of the campsite face.

The original route on the wall is quite good but rope drag can be a problem.

Start: Start at obviuos weakness right of "Wackford Squeers", as for "Lord Of The Rings Direct".

Might seem a bit contrived to people too short to do the move past the bolt at a reasonable grade. Access via 25 metre rappel from anchor above this climb. Double set cams to #1 Camalot, plus 1 each #2 and #4. Easy up to the ledge-break and up the short overhanging wall 1.5 metres right of 'Serious Callers Only'. Reach straight up the smooth wall past the bolt then right a little and up on killer incuts to left side of the roof of 'Clear Conscience'. Swing right above overhang and go up to rap anchor.

Start at belay anchor for 'Not Invented Here' Up onto the big break and traverse 3 metres right to FH below short, shallow corner. Short jump or hard moves into corner and up to good stance. Up wall (2 FH) to roof then follow seam up steep wall above roof (FH) then final, easier bulge.

A fingery and scary start and exciting finish up the headwall.

The original route followed the line L all the way, but a far better finish is to step airily R off the sloping ledge and up the headwall at a fairly solid 19 (as described).

Large cam/s size 4 or 5 could be handy at the bottom and small ones stepping off the ledge.

Start to the left of the major crack on the left side of the wall.

Traverse right into the left-curving crack and follow it past a bulge. From just past overhang move out right onto face and up.

Hard dyno up the overhanging line onto the wall. Rather than following easy crack (Gardener's Delight), go left across wall and around arete to finish up flat-tops.

Start: Start at the cave about 3 metres right of 'Historic Events'.

2 rings plus a handful of cams to summit loweroff.

Start: Lefthand slab route on detached wall just right of Gardener's Delight.

Good first pitch but be careful to avoid the dangerous hollow flake immediately left of the start.

Start: Start below a crack about 10 metres down right of A Goat\'s Song.

1. 12m (19) Climb past the bolt to the crack, avoiding touching the flake that is on your left. Finger-crack and thinning seam to large ledge.

2. 18m (14) Move right and up to next ledge. Climb the wall to ledge with abseil anchors for A Goat's Song.

Better than AGFTG despite sharing the start and much the same finish

Start: As for A Gift From The Gods.

1. 25m (19) Up the mossy slab then take orange diagonal on the steep wall just right. At the top of the diagonal, step right and up through overhang to ledge.

2. 25m (-) Line on right wall of gully.

A direct start and finish to 'The Shiralee' makes for a very good climb. Take some tiny cams and a #3 (blue) Camalot in your rack.

Climbs the centre of the face left of 'Maiden Voyeur' despite continually heading for the left wing. Good climbing throughout but the regular need to step back right to avoid the left arete detracts a bit. Take cams up to 3.5 (blue Camalot). Belay as for Heath Row or on a small stance a few metres higher below the left-hand diagonal line. Move up left to the bulge at the start of the face and pull over onto the black face. Continue, keeping right of the arête. At each bolt, step right below it and climb straight past. Belay on a ledge about 5 metres above the third bolt. Scramble, roped up about another 10 metres to another good ledge that leads off into the gully below Hurts.

Bald orange arete from ledge just below and right of 'Fiddler' On The Roof.

Some exciting moves up the front of Touchstone's big block but hasn't caught on. The tree at the start has fallen over so start may be a little more challenging. The first pitch could make a good start for 'Touch-Type'.

1. 30m (19) Bridge against conifer and onto face 7 metres left of 'Touchstone'. Go up right to the right side of the block. Traverse left into line up centre of block and up to ledge.

2. 30m (-) Step left to next ledge. Follow hand-crack and wall.

A bolted direct finish to Touchstone. Follow second ptich of Touchstone but, instead of veering left, continue directly up wall past two bolts.

The obvious right-hand companion to 'Nativity'.

Start as for Nativity but take right-hand weakness through bulge. Up bulging seam directly above to arete and up to re-join Nativity.

A great individual pitch or an approach to one of the other climbs.

The obvious wide line through the roofs above the ledge.

Links the initial wall of Kachoong into the top of Golden Echo RHV via an exciting traverse left at the roof of Kachoong. Bring a #3 camalot for the traverse. For full value, start at the the steep crack/bulge that leads up the the belay ledge of Kachoong.

Climb to the roof (crux) and then escape out right and up easy wall.

Slight corner 4 metres right of 'In Phase' then traverse 3-4 metres left, over roof and up crack.

Vigorous crack through a ceiling.

Start: Start as for 'Generation Gap'.

Steep but if you have trouble on this leave the rest of the routes on this wall alone.

Start: Start at wide crack right of James.

Reputedly a tough lead.

Bouldery seam between Greg Will be Amused and Lou's not 19.

The next few routes are in a hidden gully running in between the Lou and Evelyn gully and PB gully. They look better in this topo than they do from the base of the climbs.

Anything that does not kill you must make you stranger.

Start: In the gully behind the pinnacle with 'Because It's There' at the right end of a small white wall beneath a large fallen tree.

Start up easy grey crack 2 metres right of 'Heavy Horses'. Traverse right then follow short, left-leaning bottomless crack and head diagonally right to arete.

Pretty orange wall left of Vandal's main corner.

Go up wall to scoop; left here and up.

Mostly good apart from a section of poor rock after the initial roof. Take L of two desperate handcracks through roof about 4m R of All In Vein. Rock improves up the corner, then direct through the roof and up to ledge at about 25m. Original route wandered off left before roof but DF is much better.

Inital crack of Bhutan then follow FiHP and take DF through roof.

Start up the hand crack 1m R of FIHP... which is also desperate. Then wander across FIHP and keep going L then up and back R via a loose block. This route is pretty worthless and the only bit worth doing is the start as a slightly easier alternative to the start of FIHP.

Scramble onto the ledge to start this route, which takes the steep weakness found about halfway along the ledge. Reassure yourself that the numerous rock scars at the start of the route indicate that all the loose rock has been removed by earlier parties. The rock quality soon improves, and the route maintains interest for most of its length.

Filthy. Start 3 m R of Bitterblue, through overhang, step L then veer R up short wall.

Right around the corner from Anchorman's Delight is a large corner system, left of The First Affinity. Start at the base of the crack in this corner. Up crack to roofs and through these. Continue up, stepping to the left of the arete to avoid the worst excesses of the crack. Then up mossy wall.

Start up Humbug, go straight through the excesses of the crack until it eases into the rest below Infinity's corner. Up this, step right off ledge and up steep wall.

From cave left of Down And Out climb out right and up overhanging wall.

Start from the big chock stone. Left to thin crack then up through roof to steep wall.

Nowhere near Kansas City! Quite good but quite reachy and closer to 22 if you're short.

Start direct if you want but guard against cracked red hold with small cam (green Alien size). Otherwise start up Waddy Mackenzie.

Sustained jamming and underclinging with feet cycling on glassy rock. The second pitch is fun in an adventurous way. Start below the right-leading roof-crack right of High Kicks.

1. 15m (20) Take the right-leading crack until it's possible to go left across the wall to cave belay.

2. 25m (18) Head right up steep wall then finish R up short steep corner.

Start: Left-most route on the main, orange face.

Head up right side of block on left then through weakness in overlap

The left hand of two diagonal cracks. Two hard pitches, gear to #4 cam.

1. 40m (20) Up easily then traverse left to crack, up this then climb up to roof and left to belay,

2. 20m (20) Short corner to a crouched stance below the roof, escape awkwardly right to where a big move brings you onto the headwall, then up.

Starts right of Gillette, midway between the two giant callitris trees. Climb the short crack and continue up the creamy corner to the roof. Left on the hanging slab, pull over the roof (BR) and up the corner/groove to the top. Rap rings.

Up between Ants Pants and Noddys Route, just left of the callitris. Bolt at lip of first bulge, step left around roof above the prominent diagonal and up wall past a few more bolts. Take some trad gear as well. Rap rings.

Start at the right-hand callitris tree. Straight up past two BRs to the overlap. Step left, then veer back right above the overlap to a nice seam which leads to the top. Rap rings.

I guessing this is the short orange wall to the overlap just left of the short crack of Schoney. Breaks then delicate face to roof then over roof.

Start: Start 1 metre right of Knee High To A Bull Ant

Start up thin crack in white slab just right of the obvious corner of Off the Beaten Track

Take arete on right of white slab with bulging start (very committing) into vague scoop.

Good fun wall climbing on great rock; in the same vein as Middle Of The Road. Up into the orange scoop then up wall past horizontals, be careful of detached flake up high.

Start: Start between Left, Right And Centre and 'Just Like Your Father'.

The lovely corner up the right wall of 'Silver Bullet' was probably the hardest climb in 'Victoria' in its day.

It's probably best to belay from the ground but some parties insist on scrambling up a few metres to belay at the very base of the line.

The obvious crack through a roof bulge, good jambs through a steep bulge leads to easier finish up to ledge.

More grunting. Crack and ceiling 8 metres right of 'Winterset'.

A very small unit. Well below and north of 'Winterset' is a tiny crag with corner and roof. Hard start

Sit start, pull on some sharp holds and flakes until you get to the smoother rock. Then top out left of the little tree.

Sit start at the very bottom of the Crack. Up passed the mouth of the screaming boulder and top out mantle next to little tree.

Great dogleg crack up smooth wall at the left end of the cliff.

A worthwhile companion route to 'Acapulco Gold'. Hard start with no gear till a few metres up. Pumpy continuation up and right. Start as for Loudly Inferior.

Hard start and finish. Grade is very height-dependent, especially the start of the final wall which will be easy for people well over 180cm tall and desperate if much shorter than that. Originally started up first few metres of The Nude Balloon Dance but now has a direct start and a bolt added to final wall (with permission of Phil Armstrong). Phil originally stormed up the final wall oblivious to the lack of protection after a major falling out with his climbing partner. Start midway between The Nude Balloon Dance and Serpent below a short incipient flake and FH. Up past FH to ledge, step left and then up right-tending ramp to next ledge. Go up to steep, left-leading flake and follow this to below final wall. Past FH and up to ledge and traverse right to anchor of Serpent.

Sustained with a good finish. Start as for Serpent. Follow Serpent for 25 metres then up the steep corner on the right. Pull through overhang and up.

A topo of this route was posted on the Arapiles toilet notice-board. A dramatic link-up from Holy Roller into Youth In Asia. There's a fair bit of lichen and the rock looks suspect in places but could be worth a look. However, the time for naming the climb after the climbers has long passed. Start as for Holy Roller or Behemoth.

An enigmatic start up thin crack left of Hopscotch. After 6 metres head up right to a ledge on the arete and finish as for Hopscotch.

Variant start to Speechless.

Good but there's only a 30-year-old piton between you and the deck on the crux and it's a long way up to the next runner.

Hard start 3 metres down right of The Gab Gets Up leads past pin and up to pocket (cam). Finish to right.

Lovely face but the cryptic name and ascentionists should give pause; the eman is not a misnomer. The grade has been arbitrarily bumped up from 18 to 20 and the deadly flag applied to give fair warning. A toprope inspection is advised.

The original description says "seam in middle of wall right of The Gab Gets Up" but it only makes sense as the seam in the middle of the wall right of Screwloose And Sexless.

Obvious direct finish to Morgul Khan but a crucial flake is suspect. Start as for Morgul Khan.

This route starts up Salem for a few meters then uses balancy moves to step right. For the direct and bold start see A Dream Of Pink Tse-Tse Flies Direct.

This is looking a bit lichenous. Start 7 metres left of Gulp.

The initial wall of this is pretty crowded with 3 independent starts within about 3 metres. Start 4 metres left of Belltower.

Bouldery problem 3 metres left of Belltower, just left of the first FH of Nuns Love It. Walk off right into the base of Belltower.

Start Up right of the pinnacle face at the left end of the amphitheater is a short steep angled buttress with an overhanging start. Bridge the gap and awkwardly up the nose.

Start 5m right of Mobius Strip and 2m right of where a diagonal white intrusion ends. Move up and then veer diagonally left and up the middle of the steep wall and the obvious weakness above. Variant Finish: Move right at the top to avoid technical crux finish.