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Start strait up face veering left to small overhang overhang makes it hard to see last bolt up and over to anchors above

2 stainless carrots and 1 rusty one on way up. Can rap off sling around tree to the right of flat boulder on top.

A great wall route with excellent features. Juggy pockets to start, then a few tricky moves to gain big left facing flake. Also makes quite a nice trad route, throw a few extra cams in to protect the start.

2m right of BS. Crag classic up the highest part of this crag. A long featured wall climb with lots of stainless.

Don't dodge the crux if you want the full tick - it goes!

Burly start right of SM, with a bit of a move to start.

Start 2m R of Cherry. Stick clip bolt then boulder up and dyno to jug. Continue as for FMS. Death bolt replaced 17/3/2020.

Roof in cave up and right of FMS. Small biner recommended for 2nd bolt.

Pumpy! Start just right of Mad Bolter and traverse left crossing MB at the 3rd bolt. Finishes with hands on top at the crack, backjump to clean.

Easy once you find the correct holds, hard to onsight though. Climb the crack and wall just R of Bumbly's First, step left to shared lower-off.

Great trad climbing, plugging cams into Arapiles style rock. 20m right of the main wall on an orange section. Long reach to first break and up to ledge and easy wall behind. Good cams (3 small ones to start, then small to hand size), someone has drilled holes in all the wrong places also.

Start 1.5 m R of Gushing Knees. Hardest of the 3 'easy' routes. Share a hold with Necropolis Kidney then up and left to share anchors with Gushing Knees. (clip 1st bolt with a single screwgate to limit fall distance and unclipping)

About 30m R of the Main Wall is a smooth wall. Scramble up onto the ledge and find line of RBs and old carrots 2m R of a painted "K" on the wall. Move slightly right to lower off (shared with VLP).

Start 1m R of Necropolis Kidney and 2m left of the corner (Vintage Cuvee). Up and around roof, bridging into Vintage Cuvee for a move. Reachy.

5m left of AP. Standing, just right of the chimney. Take the easiest route up via the pocket.

Start right of the tree and climb the chossy wall on crimps and sidepulls.

Start 1m or so right of 'Lift Off' and climb the wall using the obvious pocket. Mossy and chossy.

Face just right of left arete. Thin! Needs a rebolt - currently two rust carrots.

Great thin face in the middle of the wall on ringbolts. Single U-bolt lower off or top out like the guys int he 80s did.

Reachy face with unique chunky featured rock in the top section. 3 older FHs that seem ok. No lower-off, but one single FH right at the top.

The following climb is located just right of the overhanging wall in the middle of the cliff (about 50m right of the Black Wall). Marked "X", 4m right of the overhanging wall. Sustained climbing up the steep wall (natural gear).

Really weird climbing. Up to first FH on PWtW, then follow flake right through sandy overhang (2 more FHs). Up the arete ridge to rejoin PWtW (BR to double BB belay).

Best route at the crag! Start below left side of bulging, grey slab. Tenuous arete to start, then straight up the engaging slab above--tricky top out, slightly easier to left in shallow and narrow chimney. 3 FHs to single carrot (best to top out, rap from tree at back, or build anchor with v-long sling to carrot at top of Bulges).

Cool features. Below the right hand side of the next arete to the right. Onto wall (FH) and left to the dyke (FH). Up (mid size cam) to double BB.

Follow the flake into a overhang crux and finish to shared anchors.

Start at internal crack and up to roof, traverse right then into crux overhang one RB and finish at anchors

Hard start up vertical crack, traverse right, mantel over finish at anchors.

Mixed climb 2-3 cams at start continue to left side of arête and finish at anchors

Share 3 RB of Sexsion Conexsion then traverse right to One Way Ally RB and up to horizontal crack and traverse to Supercharged RB and straight up to anchors.

Sloppy edges at crux between bolts 2 & 3. Good finger strength and technique is needed.

Share the first RB with Sloppy Slopes and traverse left over a juggy overhang which is the crux.

Start at sandstone block, mantel over rhino horn and slight traverse left to shared anchors of 'Time Out'

Start at crack and use first RB of Laid Back Luke and traverse right up the arete and finish at shared anchors of Black Rhino

Big moves on fun block.

Sit start

The steep arete. Nice looking upper half - shame about the start. Same start as previous routes then straight up the overhanging prow finishing around to the right through very steep wall.

Same start as TTCPC, but twist and thrutch you way up the right arete and chimney, with delicious knee-bars and rounded slopers.

start as for 'Leather JacKet', Dyno to top skipping all holds

Up the crack

Start left side of R arete, pull on then easier.

Right side of arete with awkward start

Up corner (has been laybacked, but good jambs) then right on outside of cave and up tricky arete.

Start 2m L of Head Injuries. Up on jugs and left on smaller holds then back right on no holds. Can continue up Young Bumblies for the full experience.

Climb HI or TQX and head left to flake and steep wall (Rebolted 2011). Best climbed as 2 pitches. Can lower from top to deck (and the second can too)

About 3m R of Head Injuries, head up the flake and steep wall on left of crack, bridge into crack for a move at 6th bolt. Without bridging 23!

Stem up the wide crack to reach the third bolt of 'Imogen'.

Stick-clip second bolt to keep you from hitting the ground if you fall, but it still may be an awkward swing.

The original bolts for this route were to the right and better protected this version. It was only when these bolts were chopped and moved left did it become dangerous (and less popular)

Streno thrash, great fun. Essential before a trip to Frog Buttress or Yosemite.The crux section had previously been done as part of The Shute. Medium wires, finger to hand cams and a fist cam above the thread and one for the top chimney.

Start just left of the Cathedral cave. Only 20, if you dont do the last move. Direct extension is closed project.

The bolted crack line 5m R of Wacky Tabacki. Mostly laybacking and climbing the left arete but a jamb or two may be needed. Has been lead on large natural gear if you don't like Ubolts

Start on face 1m right of Retro Crack. Hard off the ground to RB and trad up to pea pod. Up a bit then take the left-hand flake past 2 rings to a lower-off.

Another wall finish to the 2 cracks, one very funky move... Start up Vitez or GOOT to pod, right a move to Inchworm Groove anchor then climb the wall a metre R of wide crack (Vitez DF) past 3 RBs to single U lower off.

Excellent climbing finishing in strange laybacking up a runnel. Once again, almost a sport climb if you carry a sling for the big jug above the second bolt on OA. As for OA for 10m (past 2 RBs and a sling runner). Then move left (bolt) and straight up the thin slab above, move left to lower off.

Start below flake just right of chimney groove. Can be done without tree (at about the same grade ) Or step off tree and up the flake and dynoSlab (TM) with a bizarre mantle near the top. 4 Ubolts and lower-off. (Rebolted 2011)

8m right of the creek and 5m right of Spite.

Up the fun and increasingly delicate groove and crack. Left a wee bit at the top before moving right to anchors.

4m right of MS.

Up the delicate slab to anchors on block. In the 80s it had 3 less grades and 2 less bolts!

About 40m right of MP is a giant flake leaning against the cliff, forming an overhung wide layback corner. Undercling the wide crack then walk left 4m and up the wall to anchor. Careful belaying is needed to keep you off the ledeg on the bouldery crux (I'd pull up on the bolt above the ledge to clip the higher one, or even bring the second up to the big ledge to belay. Use a screwgate on the bolt. It was originally graded 18 and had two 70's toproping bolts in it, judging by the number of loose flakes removed on the top wall, I don't think it had been climbed..

Learn to offwidth and remove ugly excess skin! 8m further right around the arete is an offwidth.

Stick clip BR at 4m and up past another bolt to hand crack and gear to lower-off.

Funky groove and neat face climbing. Up crack 8 m R of Buffalo Bum to ledge, step R 1.5m and up wall to jugs then left to crack

Wide crack 8m right of Buffalo Bum

Past 2 RBs, then nice through bulge at top to loweroffs. Nuts and cams for top section; you can also get some gear in the break before the 2nd bolt.

The last crack on the wall, a few metres further from Tweedlebum, thin cracks up bulge to ledge and then mantle (crux). Keep the ledgefall potential in mind. (If you have to remove the plant from the top crack you're not strong enough.)

The line of very shiny rings on right side of this buttress with an undercut start. Lots of slopers. tenuous top-out then set up an abseil off rings 2m back and left to clean

Great sustained wall climbing up sloping dishes. Tricky rounded top out, or cheat and lower-off the top anchors.

Rebolted August 2015.

Nose 3m L of A Pinch and a punch. Up and left at 2nd bolt to a tenuous finish.

Streno, right arete of gully as you walk down. Sit start and hard top out to rings well back

Start about 1m L of Sandstorm by a little layback. Either hard straight up on crimps or (much nicer and easier) up left a move then right following pockets up to break (hand and fist sized cams). Up crack and tenuous slab finish straight above to rings well back. Good gear after start

Start on ramp as for Rainman but veer right using pocket, hard move to break (hand and fist sized cams). Hard move left into crack and break then up easily.

Marked KK. Middle line on this wall with a couple of funky pockets. Three Ubolts to shared lower-off with 'NFM'.

Start from the ground (don't skip first few moves by standing on the block).

Start well left of bolt then right to lower off.

Start: Starts 3m left of KK.

Start: Marked. On right hand edge of bulging buttress left of P. A hard start to a good fist sized cam in break, then continue up the arete, staying right of AB. Next break is big so clip one of AB's bolts and finish on AB anchor. Maybe 16V2?

Killer start up to first Ring Bolt. Can be done as a mixed route.

Start: 1m left of Pitted Arete

Rebolted 2009

1m L of MPC. 2ubolts

2m left of SIC. 2 rings, shared lower-off with Sports Injury Clinic.

3 rusty carrots

Just right of ALH, and left of manky BR's of B

Marked, Up wall on new RBs, share RB of D. Just right of corner crack

On the right-facing wall just left of In Depth corner. Directly up middle of this little wall, shares anchors with Python. Not exactly a sport route when there is one carrot 4m up . Really runout easy to deck. Dare Devil sports climb.

Start on the small pocket with left hand(not some pile of rocks) then to a ok knob before a monkey along the roof of the cave past RBs to lower-offs. 18 if you start on the cairn. Variant top out via the mantle (21).

Start from the cave under the big block as for Monkey Bars.

Out right through the roof and up orange wall past fixed hangers to U-bolt anchors.

Start in corner 3m L of Skullduggery, up and right then up rounded buttress finishing on right. Reachy and rounded. Recently rebolted.

There is a common variant of this route that uses the same bolts, but involves traversing to the right of the bulge towards Skullduggery between the first and second clip, then heading to the top on good holds. This skips the crux of the main route and changes the grade to a 16 or 17.

Start: Below traverse line, 3m left of S. Groovy move to start, then out traverse line and up arete.

Shortest stamina route in the Shire. Start up Zip then left along traverse line through roof and up. Right to Zip anchors or backjump (easier)

Left of racy, hard start and up then R to shared lower off with Racy

Start 1m R of crack, up past 2 Ubolts then left to shared U and lower-off.

Up edges and block, then round left of roof and up. Use long slings or rap down to clean due to rope drag. Beware of soft and loose sandstone in cave under overhang at the finish. Several holds broken off on start making it much more difficult to get going.

Jugs, crimps and slopers all in less than 7m of climbing.

Halfway down descent on East facing wall - belay on narrow vegetated ledge. Slight left trend up great rock then weird sloping moves to clip giant single bolt lower-off.

Leftwards traverse finish to Screaming Pretty past dodgy bolt

About the best warm up here - but still a bit dirty. An easier variant to 'Dirt Trawler'. Up that route to 3rd bolt then traverse left across sloping horizontal break to arête and up this finish.

Corner 5m R of Hobbit Corner, fu8nky bridging

20m L of Hobbit Corner. wet after rain. Start on right.

Start right of 'Layback Knack' in the middle of the nice grey wall. Heave thru the overlap and cruise to the top.

An extended draw on the 2nd bolt will help protect your rope if you fall off.

Sit-start on left side of mini cave in back of main cave. Climb left side of offwidth to finish hold just past first bolt of A Close Shave. Or continue into that route for the traverse to the left arete for extra bonus finish (spotter required!).

Straight up v overhung corner past dodgy looking block (which is pretty solid) then left thru bulge to anchor on Ben Williams Route.

Undercut start then hand traverse right along break then up easy crack. Unknown history. Single U bolt next to manky carrot over the lip.

Start as for SE corner, then trend left across face to tricky arete.

Climb JM until level with big roof. Traverse right on second higher bolt to anchor.