Ascensioni in Castlegar

The WKRG update describes this as a "gear-eating crack" -- but it isn't my idea of a such. To me, that means, anywhere you stop, you've got at least a couple good placements within easy reach. Not so on this. The gear isn't bad... but it isn't "gear-eating crack" quality of good.

Nice climbing up exfoliating flakes and slabs above the ledge.

Good gear and good climbing throughout.

Short, different, but kind of fun.

Like several other trad routes I've climbed in the area, felt like climbing stacked blocks in places. Gear looked generally pretty good, if you avoided the looser bits. But seemed really hard for a 5.7, even climbing it on TR.

A couple loose bits. Another one that felt really hard for 5.7.

I stick-clipped bolt 2 (of 3) so was on effective TR for the crux of the climb, so I don't really feel right calling it a lead onsight.

Far easier than "Reluctant Gardner". I' not sure it is harder than 5.5 -- but I might call it 5.6 for one move.

This is NOT the same 5.7 trad climbing as "Son of a Birch".

Lead all the pitches.

If you go into pitch 5 thinking it will be 5.8 the way pitch 1 was 5.8, well, you'll be in for a shock.

Hard slabs

Cool bouldery moves down low, followed by good slab above.

Good jams! Great climb!

We topped roped this route