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Mother Wall

  • Contesti di grado: US
  • Ascensioni: 8

Accesso: COVID-19: Lockdown

India has ordered a national lockdown from March 24.

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Ha creato 6 mesi fa

Stagionalità

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Sommario

Mother Wall is about 70 km from the center of the city, with easy access to the base. The climbs are best climbed early mornings, and in the evenings (post 4 pm during winters and monsoons).

Descrizione

These are multi-pitch slab Sport routes largely but expect a good diversity of moves. Good quality climbs with new bolts.

To exit the climbs, walking off is tricky (long hike to the right, over the ridge), so plan to rap off. Route #1 (High on Grass) has possibility to rap off on 60-meter ropes, the rest would require 70- or 80-meter ropes. Easy to traverse from Routes 2-5 to Route #1. Routes 6 & 7 are about 200 feet to the right on the crag, and the first routes that come up on the right as you access the crag.

Exiting the climbs is time-consuming, as many of the pitches are 35-meter plus, with only one odd route with pitch lengths allowing for 30-meter rappels. Bear country. The hillock warms up considerably and remains warm towards the evening.

33 km from NICE Road exit on Mysore road. Turn off at Mayaganhalli, 23 km after Nice road junction on Mysore road. Nearest village is Mother Sabar Doddi.

Limitazioni per l'accesso

None currently. The hillock is not on private property, but the access is.

Avvicinamento

10 minutes from the road, 3-400 meters, if the base is not overgrown. Typically, post monsoons, the left side routes are accessible through a thicket. Carry a machete to clear the bush, and access.

Storia

Visualizza cronologia delle ascensioni storiche

The area was first developed for climbing by Dinesh Kaigonhalli, Pranesh Manchiah, and Seema Pai in 2015.

Vie

Aggiungi via Aggiungi scheda Riordina Modifica in blocco Converti gradi
Grado Via
1 5.9
2 5.7

• Exit: Rap off with a 60-meter rope.

Set by Seema, Dini., Prani & Dini

1 5.9
2 5.11a

• Exit: Traverse to High on Grass (Route #1)

Set by Prani

1 5.8
2 5.11a

• Exit: Traverse to High on Grass (Route #1)

Set by Pranesh Manchaiah

1 5.10a
2 5.9

• Exit, traverse to High on Grass (Route #1) anchor station about 30 meters to the left of the top anchors. Top anchors shared for #4, #4a, and #5.

Set by Prani & Dini

• Second pitch merges with route #4, Inspiration and Chai.

Set by Seema, dini & Dini

1 5.7
2 5.10a

• Exit: Traverse to High on Grass (Route #1), and rap off on 60-meter rope.

Set by Prani & seema

1 5.5
2 5.7

• ** There is an Owl nest, in the cave behind the grass patch you see on the ledge. Avoid climbs #6 & #7, during Owl’s nesting season. Alternatively, these climbs deserve an alternate start.

• Exit: Rap off using a 70-meter ropes. Or a 60-meter rope, if you are comfortable with downclimbing on easy terrain.

Set by Dinesh Kaigonhalli & Pranesh Manchaiah

• • The first bolt is a bit of a runout. After you scramble about 15-20 meters to the ledge that forms the start of this climb, the first bolt is another five odd meters higher up in the corner. A fall before you clip the bolt in the corner, will certainly cause much damage. Hence the rating of R/X. • The moves in this corner climb, that transitions to a slab are quite interesting, and would have been more fun, if not for the flakiness of the holds. Despite the rating of 5.10b, I think the moves here are no harder than 5.9, but the ‘choss’ factor drive up the grade, I suppose. I found the route to be simpler than ‘High on Grass’, Route # 1. • After six bolts, the climb eases up, and then after the eighth bolt, you won’t see any bolts further. • There are two options here. One, you either continue climbing and angle left to join the second pitch of ‘Rum and Rasam’ (Route #6) and finish the route in one entire rope length, with an additional bolt protecting the rest of the 5.5 rated pitch, or, two, do the mildly exposed sharp left traverse from the eighth bolt to the P1 anchor station of ‘Rum and Rasam’ to break this up into two pitch climb.

Set by Pranesh Manchaiah

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