Vie in Oceania del grado selezionato

Start as for Pinch Arete, traverse R across Jump to Jug to scoop and undercling, then up employing a good spotter and an accurately placed mat for the final moves

Joins the hardest bits of both routes and is supposedly a grade harder than each of them. At least two repeats, Chris Lindner in 2009 and Byam Keil in 2023.

Start as for Pretty in Punk, finish as for Punks in the Gym.

Deterred many very strong suitors for many years and finally fell to the Kiwi Wizz kid

Upper Cave.

Links 'Fog' into 'Dead Heat'.

Upper Cave.

Rumoured to be a total classic at the grade - and it looks like it too. Sit-start left of 'I Feel So Holy' and motor up through the pockety featers on the steep wall to the big slopey break. Shuffle rightwards to a high-ish topout.

Middle Cave. 2016 guidebook grade

Sit start on slopey rail.

Demanding bouldery cruxes and intimidatingly huge dynos. According to Dave Jones, 'Malcolm only ever bolted this because he'd just done Mirage and thought he could dyno the full height of the cliff'. Start about 15m R of The Seventh Pillar, 2-3m R of Slytherin.

1. 28m (33) 3FHs (enormous dyno at 3rd, Rainbow Rocket -style), to gain THE break about 6-8m R of the Seventh Pillar bolt ladder. Continue up the desperate looking face past 3 FHs which trend R into a thin L-facing flake. Follow this to a chain below the main roof (30m rap).

2. 20m (32/3) This is the left-most bolted line through the major roof which extends all the way from The Seventh Pillar to Serpentine, halfway up Taipan. Another all points off dyno plus amazing water scoop/arete climbing, ending at the 3rd pitch traverse break of The Seventh Pillar. Nalle thought pitch 1 was a bit harder than this pitch, but maybe not by much!

3. 14m (29) Quetzalcoatl last pitch.

Extension to Kundalini. Adds another 7m of hard climbing on thin crimps and pockets and a final jump to the ledge.

The visionary black streaks and water grooves about 5-8m R of Naja. The joke used to be that Steve Monks "marked his turf" at the top of Naja after every shot; it looks like perhaps Lee did too! Start as for Naja. Up Naja for 2 or 3 bolts then traverse right via an obvious undercling flake a few metres above the low roof. Use long (2m) extenders for this section. Now follow the incredible grooves, ignore the half-height anchor, and continue up via amazing sustained climbing on slopey edges to the top of the wall in one single mega pitch. Rap anchor (55m).

An extension to Groovy, this was briefly the hardest route on the wall and may be the best. Climb it in 1 pitch from the ground. The sheer face above the finish of the Groovy groove is sparsely bolted (despite a dubious retrobolt by Dave Graham ... which lasted about 5 seconds after he left) up the black streak to a lower off. Can seep. Equipped by Zac Vertrees and Mike Law (with the top lower-off added by Jake Bresnehan), this was attempted by a who's who of Australian hard-men over 7 years before Ben's success.

Ben Cossey FA of Groove Train https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-PsXKda6JU

Just another incredible looking line on Taipan. It's the orange streak directly above Snake Flake's anchor, climbed in a single pitch from the ground.

a.k.a Enter the Dragon, a.k.a. Mortal Combat. This is the subtle groove about 6-8m R of Mr J's arête. "33/34" with tricky beta on both cruxes and lots of kneebar action, says Alex. Start at the DRB at the base of Venom. Trend L past FH, through desperately blank looking bulge, to follow the line of anti-holds up the attractive faint groove, joining Venom at the big break. Nalle reported "8B boulder section with very precise and shoulder intensive moves, bad feet and the two worst slopers I’ve ever seen on a route. This is followed by an easier but absolutely amazing scoopy section to a pretty ok rest. From there you set up for one of the craziest dynos I’ve ever done! If you stick the low percentage dyno, there’s still a sustained run-out section with long moves to the anchor".

Resides on the walk-in track to 'Spurt Wall' - just before the 'tunnel' (beneath the 'Taipan' route 'Invisible Fist').

Only one of the moves on this 14 move roof traverse is hard. Unfortunately all the rest require exactly the same muscles, ensuring a month long bicep ache. Fred Nicole didn't do it! Can you?

~8m to the right of Zeus, start on the block with the odd pinch inside. Out left to shallow pocket, big lockoff to sidepulls and finish directly above on flat edge.

Sit-start from a poor RH undercling and an incut LH 'pocket' - massive span move out right to the arete of 'Nice Max' - then finish as for this problem. Positive ape-index recommended!

Possibly the traverse completed by Dai Koyamada - starting from the V2 start hold - then traversing right to the finish of 'Mad Max' - unconfirmed.

Heads straight up just right of the start of Sultans of Swing. Pending details.

Sit-start at a small, slopey undercling with not much for feet.

The line 1m right of Feverish starting at the good pocket. Make tenuous moves up slopey rails to a high top out.

Start left of the V4 problem on a good gaston and take a left-trending line past the mono to topout. Has seen an impressive flash ascent by James Litz (US). Originally given V13 by Sharik as the mono didn't exist and he did horrible moves crimping the very edge of the same hold.

Dynoing from the crack directly to the top is 'Forced Entry Direct' (V11)

Dai Koyamada's addition to Andersens. Sit start matched on the left facing flake. Move up the wall and jump like mad to the lip.

Stand start to Peter Parker.

Sit start on the low rail and move up a series of dimples and slopers to crimps and jugs at the top. Hard for the grade - James didn't want it to be downgraded.

Sit start on good side pull and small crimp, up through crimps before veering left as the landing falls away.

Stand start on crimps, use arete to throw for good edge.

Sit start on underclings below the white rail 2m left of the start of STMB. Climb to a slopey pocket and underclings to make a big move gaining the slopey pinch of STMB and finish as for this problem.

Start underclinging the left side of the scoop feature (just left of the start of The Nevin Rule). Move up to LH incut crimp via tricky kneebars and underclings, gaston edges to meet The Nevin Rule at the high pinch. Finish as for The Nevin Rule.

Hardest route in the Grampians?

Start: Link-up of Daniel Or-Tiger into Somoza via some mind-blowing climbing. Very sustained with a bouldery crux.

Start as for 'Passion' then traverse all the way across the crux of Klapusterperle, through the start of 'Bitch Slap' and finish as for 'Winterkirsch'. Has also been done by finishing up 'Bitch Slap' (Sharik Walker) at no change in grade.

Starts on the two 'rails' - at the finish of Cave Man - then climbs out via the famous 'pinch' hold into a gaston crux (the pinch hold of Rave Heart) finishing as for Wimmel Friedhoff.

Link Body Eater into 'Ogre Thumb'

X-Treme cool into 'Desire'

Starts up 'Extended World' V10, drops down into Wimmel Friedhof V5 and then finishes up 'Gastonia' V8

Sit start on small side pull edges then up with difficulty compressing heinous slopers on the awesome prow/arete (slightly left of line in printed guide)

The beautiful cracked face is deceptively hard. From the stand start climb the face past a very hard deadpoint.

Start as for The Quickening, head right through crimps from the jug.

Sit start on left-hand side of boulder, moving right through undercling and various pinches, finishing with a desperate and bare top-out. Good idea to suss the finish before getting there.

One of the hardest routes in 'Victoria'. A sustained full frontal assault on the highest part of the cave.

Start: Start just R of DF.

Sit on arete and traverse up and left into Kant Touch This

Start in the far left of the cave and work your way right before finishing up Cold Hands.

Hard climbing with a powerful and shouldery crux.

Easy climbing leads to a couple of hard moves on slopey holds.

Easy climbing to a dynamic and reachy section through a blank looking roof. Cut loose and prosper.

There you have it... the main event. LDWT into DIM. Epic.

SDS low in the cave. Crimp and compress your way up and left on the impressive nose, to better holds over the bulge.

The ten-year project finally goes down! Embers takes the obvious hanging arete from a stand-start. Left hand on the arete with a crystal thumb catch and right hand on the undercling. A powerful move on poor feet allows you to gain the small crimp. From here another hard move gets you established on easier ground. Continue up the right side of the arete all the way (don't rock around onto the left slab).

Start on flat jug at the left of the wall. Reverse Butt Rodgers and continue up A Crow Left of the Murder. Rather than going right to the jug, keep moving straight up to finish on crimp rail.

Sit Start 1.5 metres to the right of 'Tree of Life' hugging the roof. Right hand utilises the obvious right angle brick edge/pinch on the lip of the roof, left hand underneath in a small slot just above the flake. Launch out left via some cool moves dropping into the flake & start holds of Tree of Life. Finish as for this.

Only known repeat by Matt Wrigley.

SDS at pointy jug with detached block for feet, climb right and up on crimps.

SDS. Follows obvious crack to the left and up, either staying underneath on slopey holds or trending high and using underclings.

Sit start on the tiny sharp holds to join Escaped Monkey.

Starts matched on the lowest flat edge with a bad right smear foot and heads straight up, using edges and underclings

Start as for room with a view but halfway out exit straight left through some tough moves to reach the jugs. The a large throw to lip before heading straight up the headwall to walk off.

Jenny Lin

Usual cave start. Traverse out left to the slotted jug (effectively reversing Mad Max) then straight through the roof on two poor left hands. Huck for glory!

The most direct line for Braveheart. Start on slotted jug as per Mad Max, and head straight out the roof as for Braveheart.

Start as for Braveheart Direct. After gaining the jug, before Braveheart crux, bust out left to an edge. Right hand to a nothing hold then making a crux move to the slopey lip. Traverse right to finish as per other problems.

Starting as for Braveheart, make some tricky moves from the sit start to join into Chicken Run. Finishing for that problem. Could be 12

Start in the two pockets, slap up left to the very slopey scoop, and aim for the second very slopey hold on the left. Super hard.

Stand start on the undercling right hand and crimp at the same height to the left. 2 hard bumps up to go for the top and over. Watch out for Eli

Yossi Sundakov-Krumins

A direct line up from the Goldfinger start via pocket and undercling then dyno to a slopey crimp on the lip and up the v easy top.

Chris Beers

Start Warmup Warren and traverse right into Massive Attack.

Start Massive Attack and traverse left into Warmup Warren.

The right exit to Massive Attack.

1st problem in the little cave next to the pipes. 'Excellent' and hard.

Direct finish to Shoosh - go straight up around the lip without using the juggy lip hold out right

Climb Porn, but finish way up high and right on the jug. Let the old chalk guide you

Link up. 'Pockets of Resistance' into 'American Siege'.

Sit start below Akhtar on the obvious slot and climb only the low lip left into El Kooko.

Dyno from the start of Diplomatic Immunity to the top of I Am Twelve.

Levitate off the underclings to the jug. No crash-pad cheating now!

Start: Sit

As for 'L'homme Obu' but big move right hand. Top out to the left.

George Li

Chase Gatland

'Rocket Man' sit start. Start up If The Shoe Fits and finish up Rocket Man.

Stephen Rawls

Hard slapping and compression moves with crazy toe hooking. From the hard low start of tablets rehearsed ride the lip to link into blue and green and red all over.

Chris Beers

Start as for Grubby Paw but climb direct through to hueco without using the lip then finish with The Black Pearl. Maybe V12.

Start directly under the prow on pockets then straight up for a desperate top out.

Sam Healy

Start as for Porn Star and traverse into and finish up Bianca's Boobies.

Stand start to Mr Winston. Both hands start on the block, then throw a high left foot behind you onto the scoop, and engage in flexible trickery to get your right foot off the ground. The ledge out right is off as for all problems. Finish up the Y2K exit.

Mr Winston variant. from the lowest part of the head wall head up on tiny crimps.

Top is currently overgrown

Stand start to Arcane Power. Same start as Witchcraft finishing up the Arcane Power Variant exit. Requires real magic.

Start under the roof over the pit of death and head toward the lip. Crux on the face and up high and left to finish. Spotter and pads are advisable.

Start down in the little cave and power your way up through the crimps and pockets, heading left and linking into Little Spoon. (Open project with proposed grade of v11/12)

Start as for Ladder II and when you get to the jugs, head left following the rock contours and some tiny crimps to a very slopey top.

Start as per Big Mitch then a bit left and up to little dish and a crimp then to the top break.

Top out or don't top out. You do you FA https://www.instagram.com/p/B0c2HO2jWPn/