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Ordina per: Modifica in blocco (max 100)
Grado Via Stile equipaggiamento Popolarità
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae The Flight Deck
30 Afterburner

Climb all of 'Jet Lag' (via the original direct start) then launch onwards into a final boulder problem above the chains.

Start: Start as for JL.

FA: Ingvar Lidman

Trad mista 25m, 7
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side
30 Mr Natural

Looks like 36! Originally led on preplaced gear, repeated placing the gear by Gareth Llewellin - a pretty bold lead. Start a short way uphill from the back of the D Minor pinnacle, and just downhill from the boulder choke. Glassy bulging seam. Rack: Mostly #1 RPs.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1995

Trad 12m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Swing Wing Boulder
V9 V9 problem
Boulder 3m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall
V8 Trackside traverse

Sit start just left of arete then traverse R) across face via some shouldery moves.

Boulder
V8 Traverse and Fly

Trackside Traverse to finish up ‘10’s Dyno (right arete out).

Boulder 4m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Oops boulder
30 Bliss

Two carrot bolts protect the face. Would be an amazing boulder/solo, but has not been done yet.

Sportiva
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Krondorff Boulder
V8 Nickotine

Very Steep Arete at far L

Boulder 5m
V8 10

Sit start. Opposing side-pulls through middle of the roof

Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Flinders Lane Area
30 Stop-Motion

Direct start to Moving Pictures past a rusty bolt or two.

FA: Dave Jones

Trad 20m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face
30 The Mule

Start up Very Anxious then before joining Anxiety Neurosis move L under the roof and blast through the roof and up the overhanging wall above staying between Kama Sutra and AN. Finish at AN p1 loweroffs or continue up any pitch above to the summit. FA early noughties IIRC ... clarification welcome.

FA: Dave Jones

Trad mista 25m, 4
30 Leaps and Bounds
Trad 35m
30 Leaps

Bolted by Kimbo decades ago, this long-standing problem succumbed to the short strong bloke with dreads. Start as for Anxiety Neurosis and boulder direct through the bulge to the start of Bounds and finish up it or Anticipation.

FA: Davey Jones, 1998

Sportiva 10m, 3
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face
30 Expired

Link Required into Requited.

FA: Nathan Hoette

Trad mista 30m, 5
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Crankshaft Boulder
V9 Crankshaft Overdive

All the business on Crankshaft (traverse) then a couple of tough moves to gain the start holds of the 3 move V8 corner.

Artificiale 5m
V8 Crankpression

The line a few people have claimed as Vague Corner, though almost completely independent and also very good. Start low on the prow right of Crankshaft crack and compress straight up using slopers either side. No use of the crack itself.

Boulder
V8 Vague Corner

Just right of 'Crankshaft' crack without using that line at any stage. Same first couple of moves as Crankpression to obvious RH sloper but then stay in the line of the corner to finish. Devious and sharp.

Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders The Chicken Boulder
V9 Sax Onion
Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Castle Crag
30 Nati Dread

Power through the roof to the lip. The section after the roof was originally done by deviating R into the Low Down, then doing it's crux before continuing straight up. Has since been straightened out.

Start: R of Procol is a line of bolts through the ceiling.

FA: Andy Pollit, 1990

Trad mista 30m, 5
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Grotto Wall Area The Bat Cave
30 Living With a Hernia

Awesome power route taking the main line through the cave. "The best power route in Australia" (Nathan Hoette).

FA: Douglas Hockly, 2003

Sportiva 10m, 3
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie
30 Punky Brewster

The master of combinations and permutations digs up another classic. This one links the "easy" bits of the two original routes.

Start as for Punks in the Gym, finish as for Pretty in Punk.

FA: Nathan Hoette

Trad 25m
30 Ethiopia

The prime line hereabouts. All the hard bit of India then step L and up the middle of the steep wall through the top roof to lower offs.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Trad mista 30m, 3
30 Wisdom of Body

Not his finest addition. Brutally hard undercling moves and very, very rarely repeated. Start as for Nose Job then bust left.

Trad 15m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Pharos Gully Bouldering Ministry of fig pluckers
V9 High traverse
Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Boulders Around the World Boulder
V8 The Final Chapter

Takes low line through roof that entrenched avoids via pinches.

Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Boulders Finalgon Boulder
V8 Finalgon Centre Direct

Great sit start half way across Finalgon and direct through underclings and small crimp to top out in same line.

Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall
30 Chuckles Bolty

The "crazy linkup" of Lord of the Rings into Slinkin' Leopard.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004

Trad
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Far North Bouldering Caving Boulder
V9 Sidepulls
Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Chiusa Campground Boulders
V8 Butt Eater

Link up of 'Butt Gravity' into Race Eater Variant.

FA: Tilly Parkins?, 2000

Boulder
V9 Race Eater

As for 'Happy Camper' but keep traversing leftwards to join 'Butt Gravity' and finish up that problem. Crux is the big move to the 4-finger pocket (on 'Butt Gravity').

FA: Klem Loskot (flashed), 2000

Boulder
V9 Happy Camper Traverse

Climb NSAM to the traverseline, then head left along the line of small crimps. Completely finger size dependant. Watch your back. 2016 guidebook grading

Boulder
V8 Worm Saloon

This and the next 4 problems are located on the raised ledge of the 'Butthole Surfer' Cave, within view of 'Gay Hip Flexor' down and to the left.

FA: Will Detmold, 2000

Boulder
V9 Butthole Surfer

Low roof starting with a sit-start on a terrace and heading directly out to the lip and up overhanging face.

Liting

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Boulder
V8 Gourmet Cat

A gourmet for sure, starts on an obvious rail, finishes on top. two small crimps lead up the center of the face, and a big move to the jug/lip. simple and sweet

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Boulder 3m
V8 Da-Lai-Lahmung

Beta dependant. Standing start. Up to poor pocket, then big move up to large pocket. Re-arrange the hands, then out right to the intermediate edge, then big span (or trickery) out to the jug on the arete. Match this and motor up on more jugs to top-out.

Hiroshi

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999

Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Titanic Boulder
V9 S.O.S.

Stand starts with a left hand slot and a right hand shallow pocket, move up and left on some pockets then top out onto the slab above.

Boulder
V8 Overboard

Starts as 'S.O.S.' but climbs straight up.

Boulder
V9 Collision Course

Start on two underclings (don't stack pads) then move up to the rail and finish as for 'Drowning Dicaprio'.

Boulder 4m
V8 Problem#1
Boulder
V8 Problem#7
Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Flat Rock West Flank
V9 Leave it all behind

Start matched on the giant jug, move up to the pocket and jump!

Boulder 4m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Farside
V9 Raging Bull

Popular, despite the fact that it is the only boulder of the crag and requires a considerable hike in to get to.

FA: Dave Pearson

Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Ground Control Caves Middle Cave
V8 Rota-Loo

Middle Cave.

Traverse from the LH corner (sit-start using underclings). Hard move into the traverse, across and into 'Lonely Heart Club' via a classic drop-down move, finishing as for that problem.

Boulder
V8 Ground Control to Major Tom

Middle Cave

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Ground Control Caves Lower Cave
V9 Maria Huifuia

Lower Cave.

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999

Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Glass Half MT Boulder
V8 Bad Moon Rising

Starts around 4m left of GHMT. Was climbed as a huge dyno. Has also been climbed via some pretty poor intermediate slopers, which most consider to be v6.

Boulder 4m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Wiggly Boulder
V8 Shattered Arete

Sit Start under the arete and punch straight up the nose on hard moves.

Boulder
V8 Regicide
Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Amazing Boulder
V8 Brama Sutra

Takes the seam from a sit-start right of 'Sick Nutter' and just left of 'The V2 Sit' problem.

FA: Julian Saunders

Boulder 4m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Love Boulder
V8 To Hate To Love

The burly twin of "Ministry of Love". Sit start on the off angle slopey rail and head left to the slot and jug.Traverse the overhang right on pockets to a sloper and edges and a tricky top out.

Boulder 6m
V9 To Love To Hate

Start as for "Ministry of Love" and move to the lip. Traverse left on slopers to finish up "To Love To Hate".

Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Jungle Boulder
V8 Conga Fury

The left arete starting with a RH pinch and low LH on the arete. Top out. Compression problem.

Boulder 3m
V9 Inca Steppa
Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders 100 Pint Wall
V9 100 Pint Club

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Paul's Boulder
V9 Far Left El Westwood
Boulder
V8 Left El Westwood

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

Boulder
V8 Direct El Westwood
Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Orphan Boulders
V9 The Pearl

Start at The Oyster, make moves left on crimps on the face and top out on the far left of the boulder on pockets and mossy slopers.

FA: Michael Tonon, 2017

Boulder
V8 The Oyster
Boulder 4m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - North
30 Naja

After the long years of Steve and others being spat off before Dave cleaned it up, it's apt that this genus includes the Spitting Cobra! The strongest line on all Taipan, this is the left-facing arete bounding the right side of the massive scooped out area right of Serpentine. It is more closely bolted than most other Taipan routes, although they're getting a bit the worse for wear. The whole thing can be worked from the ground using a 70m rope (but only just!). Start as for Serpentine.

  1. 25m (27) Gain the arete and follow it, mostly sub-25 but with an insecure dyno past the 2nd bolt. Consider a cam before the (rusty) 1st bolt, not least to avoid knackering yourself if you come off the tricky next moves.

  2. 15m (30) Continue up the arete with much better climbing. Unfortunately it gets increasingly guano-stained up high, so take a brush, but you can avoid the worst/highest section of guano by moving left before gaining the anchor (37m rap).

FA: Equipped Steve Monksish? & sent by Dave Jones, 1990

Trad mista 45m, 2, 8
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - South
30 Sheek Naja Ket

Established after a tip-off from Jake the snake Bresnehan. "Named in honour of a great man, and possibly the best climb on the wall". Given 31 originally but has quickly been knocked down a grade. Start as for Mr J. Up most of Mr J p1 then, instead of going diagonally left past the last bolt to the cave, continue directly up. The crimpy orange wall has 4 more bolts and takes you about 4m R of Mr J p2, right to the top. A 70m rope can lower off the last bolt to the ledge - just! It's only a sport route if, like most grade 30 climbers, you skip the trad gear on Mr J.

FA: Ben Cossey & Al Pryce, 2008

Sportiva 38m, 11
30 Tourniquet
  1. 20m (30) An 8m direct variant to Venom pitch 1. As for Venom for 12m until established on the L side of the groove. Where Venom traverses R, continue direct up the L side of the groove past 2 RBs to rejoin Venom at the lower-off.

  2. 20m (27) As for Venom pitch 2 until past the bulge and into the cave. Then take the L arete of the cave/scoop to lower off (80m rope recommended). Rebolted 2017. This pitch is more easily approached via Mr Que.

FA: Dave Jones (p1p2 98), 1997

Trad mista 40m, 2, 8
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Spurt Wall
30 Cripple Nipple

Another absorbing steep wall on excellent rock. Julian Saunders attempted this route direct with a huge sideways dyno (thus removing his nipples!). Eventually Nathan solved the climb by bailing around this dyno crux by a big traverse right.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2002

Sportiva 17m, 8
30/31 Lifestyling

Sustained slopy masterpiece that some reckon is the best thing on Spurt. It climbs a blazingly direct line of pockets and crimps. Typical Julian bullshit runouts to sketchy clips with the technical crux several metres above a bolt. 6 bolts.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

Sportiva 20m, 6
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Chiusa Spurt Wall (Bouldering)
V9 Sam Sneak
Boulder
V9 Pikachu
Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Afterglow Boulders
V8 Crisco Love Party

Start on good holds, climb right into hueco and continue up to round pocket. Top out over lip

Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Between the Sheeps
V8 Bonsai

Start left of Kamikaze and head left.

Boulder
V9 Poison Salad

Rat Salad into Rat Poison. Mega!

Boulder
V8 Rat Salad

Sit start on edges, bust out the roof via shouldery moves and finish up right. Either downclimb or shuffle along the shelf to top out.

Boulder 4m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Wildsides
V8 Sweet Sensation

As for 'The Beginnings...' then break right and up via extreme undercling move to the slopey break.

FA: Klem Loskot, 2000

Boulder
V8 Click

Low sit-start and up via a big move leftwards. Possibly lost some holds since the first ascent.

Start: 3rd climbing cave along from the 'Sweet Sensation' area.

FA: Klem Loskot, 2000

Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Chiusa The Snake Pit
V9 High Flyer

Takes the obvious flakeline through the big roof (see pic below), uphill from 'Helmut'. Yet another dynamic problem.

FA: Bryn Hoskins, 2006

Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Citadel
V8 Ammagamma Standing Start

The original problem from a standing start - to mantle the finish.

FA: Dave Jones, 2000

Boulder
V9 Strammamax

Classic low traverse starting from the large LH flat jug under the roof - then heading rightwards via a big hueco and an even bigger sloper (crux) - finishing up the Endamax'. Desperate for those of short stature...

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999

Boulder
V9 Puns and Noodles

Sit-start on the big hueco pocket - then head directly out through the big roof and up the thin face - to finish on the obvious jug line. Thin.

FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2000

Boulder
V9 Lost For Life Stand Start

Stand start on the obvious wide crimp rail. Finish as for LFL.

Boulder 4m
V8 Penguin Biceps
Boulder
V9 Pingu's Last Stand
Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Amnesty Gun Buttress Boulder
V9 Dave Jones Traverse

FFA: Dave Jones presumably

Boulder
V9 Vendetta
Boulder
V8 Bismarck
Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Amnesty Upper Gun Buttress
V8 Doctors Orders

Only climbs on RHS of big seam.

FA: Michael Tonon, 3 Ago 2018

Boulder 4m
V8 Prescribed Happiness

Stand start in the break, follow seam up and left to high top out.

FA: Michael Tonon, 3 Ago 2018

Boulder 6m
V8 Thoughts Of A Dying Athiest

FA: Pat Reynolds

Boulder 6m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Zoolander Area
V8 Hansel
Boulder
V8 Magnum

Horrible landing.

Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Tim Tam Boulder
V8 Tim Tam Mantle

Hard sit start on edges to difficult mantle just after start of TTT

Boulder 2m
V8 Happy Daze Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Font Boulder
V8 Green Destiny

Sit start on the right side of the hueco and make a big move up to slopey holds and continue up hard moves on bad holds over the bulge left of White Destiny.

Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Gobsmacker Corner
V8 Testostrogen
Boulder 3m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Gasoline Prow
V8 Gasoline

Start as for Ethanol and up to flakes in the roof. Follow the line of holds right, moving through the roof to the other side and mantle over the nose of the boulder.

Boulder 4m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Lillyput Wall
V8 Exposed

Thought to be much harder than V5.

FA: Toby Benham, 2000

Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Trust Boulder
V8 Micro Machine
Boulder 2m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Zinc Boulder
V8 Zinc

Stand start from jug then climb up and top out.

Boulder 5m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Snowflake Boulder
V8 Spanner
Boulder 3m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Andersens Consulting Boulder
V8 Shanghai

Sit start matched on right-facing edges. Move to a gaston then up right to gain a jug and top out.

Boulder 3m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main The Wailing Wall
V8 The Wailing Wall

Located on the face other side of the flake.

Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Giddy Up Boulder
V8 Giddy Up

6m vertical arete up the hill from Sydney Highrise

Boulder 6m
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main The Shield
V8 Police Brutality
Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Lower Clicke Bad Cliche Boulder
V9 Hanabi

Direct eliminate version to As the Crow Flies (V6). Dyno from the start holds straight to the same hold you're jumping to on As the Crow Flies.

Boulder 3m
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