Vie in South-West England del grado selezionato

A route sadly maligned by the guidebook. The vegetation has been cut back and at its present levels is part of the character of the route (and a helpful runner). The opening moves are serious though not highly technical. The crack above the hawthorn bush is better and more useful than it looks at first glance. The route packs a lot of climbing into a short distance and should be better known.

Tucked away high above the traffic on the extreme left of the Unknown Wall is this exciting and very exposed pitch. Approach via a vegetated path that rises up leftwards under the wall from the base of the face. Follow the path for 100m to a final steep step which ends at a good vegetated ledge and small tree belay on the right, with a cave 5m above and right. Move up a small rib to a spike at its top and step right to a ledge beneath the left side of the overhung cave. Climb very steeply through the overhang on loose looking, but good solid holds to a small tree. Move up to a peg and then follow thin cracks to the top.

A shy gem of a climb that builds to a dramatic climax in its upper reaches. The first pitch is vegetated but the holds are clean. Start at the well-worn gearing-up spot as for The Blik.

1. 10m. Climb up rightwards on easy but vegetated ground to a good belay ledge right of a projecting block.

2. 4c, 27m. Continue above the belay and take the line left of the overhang (double pegs) that ends at a bulge. Move right and up past a peg with difficulty to an open corner and belay ledge.

3. 4c, 18m. Climb up to the overhang, pegs, and traverse left beneath them for 6m to where they fade. Move up past double pegs to easier ground and the top.

An alternative finishing pitch taking the arête right of the top corner pitch of Us which is said to be easier than it looks. Belays off big bertha, the purpose made metal tube, in-situ above the arête tat lies between the top pitch of banshee and pilgrim's progress.

The short ragged crack

1. 5b, 25m.

2. 10m

3. 4c, 20m

4. 4b, 15m

Pitch 1 of The Featherless Biped.

Start up Jumping Carrots, make an entertaining and well-protected traverse left below the roof of Jasper (small cam, peg) to reach its rest below the roof, traverse further left to reach Floating Voter. From here, the traverse along the break can be continued to a belay on one of the various bolt belays.

Various ways to finish:

a) Don't belay, but climb to the top in one pitch on any of the routes hereabouts. b) From one of the bolt belays, traverse further left to the large tree of Nightmare (making encounters with some of the vegetation). From here either climb to the top or c) Continue traversing along the break for several pitches, including the traverse pitch of Gronk and (possibly) further onwards. Keeping slightly downwards after Gronk allows for the last belay of Entrail to be reached, finish up Entrail (this gives a total of 6 pitches).

Starts from the big tree of Nightmare, climb Nightmare and traverse off easily to the right to join Flash Gordon's Trip to Mars just at the end of its 6a slab part (peg, cluster of good gear). Following Flash Gordon's Trip to Mars from here onwards, make a 5a move followed by some 4c climbing well above the gear to reach a ledge and then a steep but juggy finish. No independent climbing, but a very enjoyable finish for any of the climbs finishing around the big tree of Nightmare.

With a new lease of life, the route gives enjoyable stress-free climbing with consistent good protection. Start up the left side of the rib (small wire) and step across onto a ledge and a welcoming vertical nut slot ('hexs' useful). Climb the rib past two bolt runners to a slabby section (small wires) and the top of a projecting diamond-shaped block (bolt out on the left). From the niche above (hidden old peg), reach leftwards over the remaining bulge to another old peg (and good 1.5 + 2 cams) before traversing out left and stepping up onto a short slab. Finish past a final redundant peg to a shared double ring abseil station immediately above on the apex of the rib.

Originally E1 5a. Re-cleaned and re-equipped, with two extra bolts added in 2012.

An agreeable natural line with steady protection and thoughtful non-strenuous climbing. Start up the left side of the rib (small wire) to reach a ledge and a welcoming vertical nut slot ('hexs' useful). (all as for Night of the Comic Dead). Follow the ramp line diagonally rightwards past two new peg runners (with optional good protection variously down on the right) to reach a small complex overlap. Pull over rightwards into the scoop above, peg, and finish delicately rightwards to a shared double ring abseil station.

Originally E1 5a. Re-cleaned and two extra pegs added in 2012.

A surprisingly entertaining and worthwhile recent addition with plenty of gear. Start two metres left of Heartbeat City beneath a clear, narrow groove line. Climb the groove line to its close (old peg runner on the left and optional pair of pegs out right on Heartbeat City just reachable.) Step left beneath a good vertical nut slot and pull over onto the ramp of Pastiche. Follow the ramp past two pegs to an overlap, step left and then climb the right-side of the large diamond-shaped block above with a reachy move past a bolt runner. Finish at a double ring abseil station up on the right.

Stylish and exposed climbing up the left side of the buttress. Start on a belay ledge beneath a black streaked groove.

1. 5a, 20m. From the left side of the ledge take a narrow, diagonal ramp out leftwards to two good hidden pegs at the base of a white wall. Climb the wall to another peg and then move up and left to a big quarry spike just left of the arete. Move around to the left side of the arete and climb up over an overhang and belay below a rickety tree.

2. 4c, 16m. Move rightwards onto the face and make intricate moves right to the base of a shallow groove in the centre of the face. Climb the groove past a peg, all the way to a large tree at the top of the crag.

A strong line, good gear, and plenty of variety make this a worthwhile and popular route. Start on a belay ledge beneath a groove. Move easily up the wall right of the streaked groove and then step left to a small corner at 5m. Take the corner past a peg, and the relatively bold wall above on good holds to a ledge at the base of a right-leaning corner, where there are some more pegs. Climb the corner to a difficult and polished exit onto a ledge. Finish up easier rock to a large tree at the top of the crag.

1. 5a, 27m.

2. 5a, 25m.

3. 5a, 25m.

Main Wall's most famous line is a fine climb that follows a subtle left-to-right line of weakness through an intimidating rockscape. Start on a grassy ledge at the base of the line.

1. 5a, 25m. From the left-hand side of the ledge move boldly up a small corner in the blunt arete to double pegs which may be missing. Traverse right, beneath a line of overhangs past a number of pegs to a ledge under a shattered looking wall. Climb up rightwards across the wall to a corner and take this to a peg and nut belay on a slab, 5m below the main line of overhangs.

2. 4c, 32m. Climb up past a peg to the overhang and move over it on good holds. Head rightwards and up a broken rib before climbing back leftwards under a line of overhangs until it is possible to gain the base of a wide depression. Climb up the middle of the depression, to an exit left at the top.

1. 5b, 33m.

2. 5a, 27m.

Exposed and quirky traversing taking in some of Avon's most impressive locations. Start from The Gallery to the left of Lunchtime Ledge. Combined with Reveille or Mike's Mistake it forms a classically varied way up the cliff. The last pitch and a half is shared with Pink Wall Direct.

1. 16m. Traverse easily left beneath an overhang to a tree. Continue in the same line to pegs and a stance under the leaning headwall.

2. 4c, 22m. Down climb the groove on the left to point level with the lowest of the three huge iron spikes in the sheer left wall. Make a tricky move to grab the first spike and then romp up the spikes to a fine and very exposed stance - the Aerodrome stance.

3. 5a, 14m. Hand traverse left along the exposed rising break, pegs, and finish up the short easy corner.

1. 4c, 27m.

2. 4c, 20m.

1. 5a, 40m.

2. 5a, 10m.

P1 as for Clarion. P2 directly up the slab to finish at the tree with the abseil strop on Lunchtime Ledge.

Climb Dexter's first pitch and belay. Then climb the crack in the top slab above the belay. Half way up this traverse out left and up the blank slab aiming for the left end of an obvious wide break, which disappointingly fails to provide any worthwhile gear! Then scramble up easier ground to join Dexter on the right. Finish as for Dexter. A fun bold alternative to its parent route

Start as for Dexter and move halfway along the muddy ledge to where the first pitch finishes. Tackle the bulges above directly with a hard mantelshelf using small side pull crack (not part of dexter) to reach a small tree (thread). Once here climb a long run out section up and leftwards diagonally until reaching a polished undercut crack, follow this to tree belay on lunchtime ledge.

A fun pitch that requires a number of interesting manoeuvres not found in the average rock climbing manual. Start at a large tree close to the back of the ledge, next to two acute overhangs. Climb up the tree and fix a runner in the branches before stepping onto the slab above the overhangs. Without the aid of a large rock anchor bolt climb the slab to a peg at the base of a right-leaning flake. Climb the flake, peg, to its end and a useful iron spike runner. Pull up the steep wall above the flake and finish steeply leftwards on good holds, passing another iron spike runner midway.

1. 4c, 27m.

2. 5a, 24m.

1. 5a, 15m.

2. 5a, 25m.

A classic and very bold line that gives a memorable climb. Start at a peg and nut belay at the top of the Exhibition Slab, as for Piton Route.

1. 5a, 23m. Climb straight up the blunt rib to a horizontal break, peg. Climb past the break on the right with difficulty and continue straight up to a second break and overlap, pegs. Pull over and climb boldly up and left, to gain a left-facing flake. Once again climb boldly up and left to a belay on a small sloping ledge below the midpoint of a red leaning wall. Poor bolt, good medium cam, peg and nuts up to the left.

2. 5a, 27m. Move right under the steep wall, pegs, until a dramatic step around the overhangs can be made to gain a good horizontal slot. Step right and up past a hidden pocket in the steep wall to a final pull over the lip that gains an easy slab above. Continue to the top past several small trees (possible belays).

Climb the slanting crack all the way. Great gear, great moves, great rock. In-situ belay at the top. Abseil off.

1. 4c, 15m.

2. 5a, 25m.

highball

To the right of Ali G Minor. Climb the short steep red wall then up the juggy little prow of rock

The original expedition started up Lay in Wait and traversed left at HS.

1. 4a, 20m.

2. 4b, 30m.