Vie in New Hampshire

Slab between 'Son of Snake' and 'The Nose'.

Alternate finish to 'Swift Premium'

on Bottom Slab

Climb the first pitch of Pleasant Street, and from the tree, get over the lip and onto the dike on the right. Follow the not so obvious first moves toward the very obvious left slanting crack.

The first pitch (5.6 R) is a good mental test for the leader on the unprotected but beatiful slab/dike.

The second pitch (5.8) is a must-do for any crack climber, and everyone else. The well protected crack offers perfect conditions to practice jams, calf endurance and pain tolerance (tapping might be a good idea, although not necessary). Be ready to experience the polished slab that offers slippery foot placements and weird-angled hand jams before going up and on the small slab/crimps crux at the end, before enjoying the bliss of a good belay and a wonderful view at the top, while you recover from the experience!

A good rewarding, though not sustained route up the slabs. There are but a few moves of 5.5, and only a few sections of 5.4 climbing -- most of the climbing is 5.3 and easier. But, often with long run-outs at the easier grades, requiring confident leading at that grade. The "Standard Route" is a better-protected choice.

Start below a large isolated pine tree about 35m up near the right side of the slabs.

1. 120ft (5.2). Climb the easy slab to a 2 ring-bolt anchor left of the pine tree.

2. 140ft (5.4) From the anchor follow a vertical crack over the left side of an overlap, then up a narrow vertical dike up a steeper slab past 2 bolts to a small stance with 2 ring-bolts on the left.

3. 110ft (5.1 R). Continue up an easy low-angled groove to another double-bolt anchor.

4. 90ft (5.2) Follow a prominent right-slanting arch until it ends at a double-bolt anchor above a small flake.

5. 140ft (5.5, 5.4R) Step up from the anchor through the headwall (5.5) then up and left (5.4 R) to and past a few hidden pockets (gear!) then up to a Grinch-face belay ledge with double-bolt anchor.

6. 100ft (5.4). Go up and right into a left-facing groove with a lay-back flake, then up the flake for about 50ft. Then step up and right, then up a 20-foot head wall with old pitons. Belay on a good ledge just above the head wall , and below the last big overlap.

7. 100ft (5.3). Traverse left from the anchor past a detach block to a gently rising ramp, then past an old bolt (good for route-finding an keep the rope off the ledge, but wouldn't trust it to catch a fall). Continue until you can break right on good holds through the overlap then up to a tree anchor.

8. 4th class. Follow the obvious dike up the next section of slab.

9. 4th class (one 5.1 move). Follow the dike diagonally up and right through the next section of slab.

10. 4th class (a couple 5.0 moves). Friction up the easy slab to the summit. One slightly steep friction section.

The last three pitches are usually climbed un-roped as a scramble.

Start on a bit of a dirt ledge up and left of the main base at "Clippity Do Dah". A bit run-out on the (short) first pitch. Better climbing and gear for the 2nd pitch.

Both pitches one and three are short -- either could be combined with pitch 2.

1. climb up and over an overlap to a belay.

2. climb the obvious crack to a prominent pine tree for the belay.

3. finish up the easy slab above to a tree belay at the top.