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1 - 100 di più di 10,000 vie.

Grado Via Stile equipaggiamento Popolarità
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae The Flight Deck
30 Afterburner

Climb all of 'Jet Lag' (via the original direct start) then launch onwards into a final boulder problem above the chains.

Start: Start as for JL.

FA: Ingvar Lidman

Trad mista 25m, 7
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side
30 Mr Natural

Looks like 36! Originally led on preplaced gear, repeated placing the gear by Gareth Llewellin - a pretty bold lead. Start a short way uphill from the back of the D Minor pinnacle, and just downhill from the boulder choke. Glassy bulging seam. Rack: Mostly #1 RPs.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1995

Trad 12m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Swing Wing Boulder
V9 V9 problem
Boulder 3m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Oops boulder
30 Bliss

Two carrot bolts protect the face. Would be an amazing boulder/solo, but has not been done yet.

Sportiva
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Denim Wall
31 Balance of Power Direct Finish

Originally given 31, but it's not that much harder then the original.

Start: Start as for BoP.

FA: Nathan Hoette

Trad mista 30m, 7
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Flinders Lane Area
30 Stop-Motion

Direct start to Moving Pictures past a rusty bolt or two

FA: Dave Jones

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face
30 Leaps and Bounds
Trad 35m
30 Leaps

Bolted by Kimbo decades ago, this long-standing problem succumbed to the short strong bloke with dreads.

Start: Start as for 'Anxiety Neurosis'.

FA: Davey Jones, 1998

Trad 35m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face
30 Expired

Link Required into Requited.

FA: Nathan Hoette

Sportiva
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Crankshaft Boulder
V9 Crankshaft Overdive

All the business on Crankshaft (traverse) then a couple of tough moves to gain the start holds of the 3 move V8 corner.

Artificiale 5m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders The Chicken Boulder
V10 Between Fear and Desire
Boulder
V9 Sax Onion
Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Castle Crag
30 Nati Dread

Power through the roof to the lip. The section after the roof was originally done by deviating R into the Low Down, then doing it's crux before continuing straight up. Has since been straightened out.

Start: R of Procol is a line of bolts through the ceiling.

FA: Andy Pollit, 1990

Trad mista 30m, 5
31 Nati Dread Direct

As for 'Nati Dread', but power straight up after the lip past a new crux to rejoin the original route (finishing as for that).

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2007

Sportiva 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Grotto Wall The Bat Cave
30 Living With a Hernia

Awesome power route taking the main line through the cave. "The best power route in Australia" (Nathan Hoette).

FA: Douglas Hockly, 2003

Sportiva 10m, 3
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress
31 First Blood

The blank looking beautiful buttress left of Chinese Algebra

FA: Alister Robertson, 19 Apr 2013

Sportiva 15m, 5
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie
30 Punky Brewster

The master of combinations and permutations digs up another classic.

Start: Start as for 'Punks in the Gym', finish as for 'Pretty in Punk'.

FA: Nathan Hoette

Trad 25m
30 Ethiopia

The prime line hereabouts.

Start: Start as for 'India'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Trad mista 30m, 3
30 Wisdom of Body

Not his finest addition. Brutally hard undercling moves and very, very rarely repeated.

Start: Start as for 'Nose Job'.

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall
31 Mighty Mouse

Start R of Trojan below boulder. Up and traverse R and up. Direct start (bolted by Carrigan decades ago) remains unclimbed.

FA: Nathan Hoette

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Pharos Gully Bouldering Ministry of fig pluckers
V9 High traverse
Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Boulders Around the World Boulder Road Face
V10 Millers Tale

Sit start at the back of the roof. Straight out to jug on lip and up.

Boulder 3m
V10 Andy's Problem
Boulder 4m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall
31 Zorlac The Destroyer

A righthand finish to Slinkin'.

Start: Start as for Slinkin'.

FFA: Jerry Moffat, 1992

Trad 30m
31 Lord of the Rings

Remarkably sustained face on thinner and thinner holds. If you fall off the slab you'll be in good company.

Start: Start as for "Wackford Squeers".

FA: Stefan Glowacz

Sportiva 15m
30 Chuckles Bolty

The "crazy linkup" of Lord of the Rings into Slinkin' Leopard.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004

Trad
31 Lord Of The Rings Direct

Start at the weakness down right of "Wackford Squeers" and go fairly much straight up.

FA: Nick Sutter early 1990s, 2000

Sportiva 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Far North Bouldering Caving Boulder
V9 Sidepulls
Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Chiusa Campground Boulders
V9 Race Eater

As for 'Happy Camper' but keep traversing leftwards to join 'Butt Gravity' and finish up that problem. Crux is the big move to the 4-finger pocket (on 'Butt Gravity').

FA: Klem Loskot (flashed), 2000

Boulder
V10 Butthole Surfer

Low roof starting with a sit-start on a terrace and heading directly out to the lip and up overhanging face.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Titanic Boulder
V9 S.O.S.

Stand starts with a left hand slot and a right hand shallow pocket, move up and left on some pockets then top out onto the slab above.

Boulder
V10 Iceberg Left

Start as for 'Drowning Dicaprio', make some hard moves to gain the large side-pull, then climb left and finish as for 'Overboard'.

Boulder
V10 Iceberg

Start as for 'Iceberg Left' but continue straight up and top out onto the slab.

Boulder
V9 Collision Course

Start on two underclings (don't stack pads) then move up to the rail and finish as for 'Drowning Dicaprio'.

Boulder 4m
V10 Umbra

Start as for 'Collision Course' but after you gain the large rail continue right across some slopers to finish up 'Not Drowning, Waving'.

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Flat Rock West Flank
V9 Leave it all behind

Start matched on the giant jug, move up to the pocket and jump!

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Feb 2014

Boulder 4m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Flat Rock Epsilon Wall Bouldering
V10 100 Pound Club

Big move to small edge, then big move to jug

Start: From low horizontal

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Boulder
V10 Lullaby
Boulder
V10 Lullaby Traverse

Steep face on pockets, slopers and edges

Start: As for 'Down Under'

FA: Klem Loskot, 2000

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Daves' Cave
V10 Snow mike

Low start in cave. Big moves lead to finish jug above boulder. The extension is V7 on its own.

Boulder
V10 Possum Overhang

Left line of slopers through roof to jugs. Traverse right, up to next level and back left to jug.

Boulder 8m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Northern Wall
31 Agent of Cool

A fantastic natural line that was one of the 'last great lines' in the Grampians until Lee Cossey put a few days work into it and freed it in November 2015.

Start: On the right wall of the gully, about 15m L of 'Neptune' pitch 2, is this striking overhung curving corner/crack. Up tips finger crack to crux move from crimpy pinch to big huecos above the sickle, monkey right into the crack (drop the rope back to the belayer - or use double rope technique - to avoid heinous drag) and blast upwards to glory.

First ascent https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cCljblIsMYk

FFA: Lee Cossey, Nov 2015

Trad 25m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Ground Control Caves Lower Cave
V9 Maria Huifuia

Lower Cave.

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Love Boulder
V9 To Love To Hate

Start as for "Ministry of Love" and move to the lip. Traverse left on slopers to finish up "To Love To Hate".

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Butchers Boulder
V10 Butchers Choice
Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Jungle Boulder
V9 Inca Steppa
Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders 100 Pint Wall
V9 100 Pint Club

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Paul's Boulder
V9 Far Left El Westwood
Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall
31 Cardigan Street

HB had previously dabbled in this vicinity while searching for a second pitch for Mirage, but after he declared the second pitch groove "impossible" nobody bothered with it for years. Luckily no one told Stuart, who sauntered in and snared one of Taipan's very best. Unfortunately the first pitch is ridiculously cruxy, so most people rap in to do pitch 2 only. Start as for Sirocco.

  1. 35m (31) Follow Mirage for 18m to gain the hanging slab atop the steep white corner. Now doddle up L (ha ha) past bolts to the start of the groove, and more easily to hanging belay at chain (30m rap).

  2. 25m (28) Amazing climbing up the line of shallow water scoops in incredible red stone, 7FHs to chain (25m to 1st belay, 55m to ground).

FA: Pitch 2: Stuart Wyithe (late) & Pitch 1: Garth Miller (2nd shot!), 1995

Trad mista 60m, 3, 11
30 Naja

After the long years of Steve and others being spat off before Dave cleaned it up, it's apt that this genus includes the Spitting Cobra! The strongest line on all Taipan, this is the left-facing arete bounding the right side of the massive scooped out area right of Serpentine. It is more closely bolted than most other Taipan routes, although they're getting a bit the worse for wear. The whole thing can be worked from the ground using a 70m rope (but only just!). Start as for Serpentine.

  1. 25m (27) Gain the arete and follow it, mostly sub-25 but with an insecure dyno past the 2nd bolt. Consider a cam before the (rusty) 1st bolt, not least to avoid knackering yourself if you come off the tricky next moves.

  2. 15m (30) Continue up the arete with much better climbing. Unfortunately it gets increasingly guano-stained up high, so take a brush, but you can avoid the worst/highest section of guano by moving left before gaining the anchor (37m rap).

FA: Equipped Steve Monksish? & sent by Dave Jones, 1990

Trad mista 45m, 2, 8
30 Sheek Naja Ket

Established after a tip-off from Jake the snake Bresnehan. "Named in honour of a great man, and possibly the best climb on the wall". Given 31 originally but has quickly been knocked down a grade. Start as for Mr J. Up most of Mr J p1 then, instead of going diagonally left past the last bolt to the cave, continue directly up. The crimpy orange wall has 4 more bolts and takes you about 4m R of Mr J p2, right to the top. A 70m rope can lower off the last bolt to the ledge - just! It's only a sport route if, like most grade 30 climbers, you skip the trad gear on Mr J.

FA: Ben Cossey & Al Pryce, 2008

Sportiva 38m, 11
30 Tourniquet
  1. 20m (30) An 8m direct variant to Venom pitch 1. As for Venom for 12m until established on the L side of the groove. Where Venom traverses R, continue direct up the L side of the groove past 2 RBs to rejoin Venom at the lower-off.

  2. 20m (27) As for Venom pitch 2 until past the bulge and into the cave. Then take the L arete of the cave/scoop to lower off (80m rope recommended). Rebolted 2017. This pitch is more easily approached via Mr Que.

FA: Dave Jones (p1p2 98), 1997

Trad mista 40m, 2, 8
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Spurt Wall
31 Academia

Two cruxy bouldery moves to start then eases considerably. Stuart Wyithe originally bolted this thinking it was only going to be grade 26!

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Naughty Tickle Town'.

FA: Dave Jones, 1998

Sportiva 15m, 5
30 Cripple Nipple

Another absorbing steep wall on excellent rock. Julian Saunders attempted this route direct with a huge sideways dyno (thus removing his nipples!). Eventually Nathan solved the climb by bailing around this dyno crux by a big traverse right.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2002

Sportiva 17m, 8
30/31 Lifestyling

Sustained slopy masterpiece that some reckon is the best thing on Spurt. It climbs a blazingly direct line of pockets and crimps. Typical Julian bullshit runouts to sketchy clips with the technical crux several metres above a bolt. 6 bolts.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

Sportiva 20m, 6
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Spurt Wall (Bouldering)
V9 Sam Sneak
Boulder
V9 Pikachu
Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Afterglow Wall
31 Bossanova

FA: Julian Saunders

Trad
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Lower Taipan Lower Taipan Wall
31 M2 Pegasus

Something of a hybrid. The first pitch is free except for one long aid point. The less significant second pitch still holds a few aids.

Start: The next hanging corner R of 'Icarus' is now easily identifiable by 2 shiny new FHs on the steeply undercut face below the corner. (This is a closed project which is attempting to free the batman start (extremely bouldery)).

  1. 24m (31 M2) Batman to the first bolt above the FHs, continue up corner past dodgy old "Pollitt ring-bolts" to abseil anchor.

  2. 31m (- M2) Free up to ledge below crack across roof. Aid roof and up to top.

FA: Thomson, Mudie (M4 & 8). Andy Pollitt 30.11.90., 1970

Artificiale 55m, 2
31 Gilgamesh

Magnificent. HB almost freed it (30M1 - 1 point) but it took another 15 years for Ben to finish it off, by the skin of his teeth. So far he's suggested "maybe 30, 31" for the grade - we'll go with the latter!

Start: 10m R of 'Pegasus'.

  1. 35m (31) Hard moves take you R through the roof 10m R of 'Pegasus' to crux into bottomless corner. On up corner to belay.

  2. 27m (-) Easy ground.

FA: David Mudie & Stephen Due. Malcolm Matheson (One point) 90's, 1974

FFA: Ben Cossey, 2008

Trad 67m, 2
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Wildsides
V10 Lazy Monnelli

A brilliant complex roof problem. Located 1 minute's walk downhill - left of the 'Sweet Sensation' cave. Sit-start right at the back of the cave, and climb out, down, and around to a cruxy finish out on the lip.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre The Snake Pit
V9 High Flyer

Takes the obvious flakeline through the big roof (see pic below), uphill from 'Helmut'. Yet another dynamic problem.

FA: Bryn Hoskins, 2006

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Citadel
V9 Strammamax

Classic low traverse starting from the large LH flat jug under the roof - then heading rightwards via a big hueco and an even bigger sloper (crux) - finishing up the Endamax'. Desperate for those of short stature...

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999

Boulder
V9 Puns and Noodles

Sit-start on the big hueco pocket - then head directly out through the big roof and up the thin face - to finish on the obvious jug line. Thin.

FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2000

Boulder
V10 The Viking
Boulder
V9 Pingu's Last Stand
Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Cave Club
V10 Cave Club

Start as for 'Apfenschaukel', but head right through a big gaston move. 2nd ascent was quickly made by Toni Lamprecht in about 5 minutes!

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Amnesty Gun Buttress Boulder
V9 Dave Jones Traverse

FFA: Dave Jones presumably

Boulder
V9 Vendetta
Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Andersens Slabs
V10 Mungo's Roof

Popular. Sit start on good flakes at the lowest part of the roof and climb the line of flakes, pinches and edges all the way out to cruxy moves at the lip. Finish at the big jug on the face or top out.

FA: Mungo

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Clicke The Ark
V9 Pots and Pans
Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Clicke Apartment Block
V9 Nomentum
Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Clicke Shandy Boulder
V9 Mexican Delight
Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Clicke Bridesmaid Walls
V9 Ridunculous Traverse

Start as for Running Man and traverse into finish up Ridunculous.

Boulder
V9 Pumped Action

Start as for Running Man and traverse into finish up Pump Action.

Boulder
V9 Bridesmaids Anonymous

The longest pumper on the wall. Start as for Running Man and traverse into finish up Last Waltz.

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Unknown Problems (to be sorted)
VB- - 10 Unknown/Unticked - to delete

FA: Gav Portier/ Gilli Helbig

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) The Kindergarten (bouldering)
V10 Drop Bear
Boulder
V10 Gripmaster

Previously a long-standing open project prior to Klem's arrival. Originally graded 11, with some people thinking it's still not far off that.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Boulder
V10 The Kevin Rule
Boulder
V9 Sparkle Motion
Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Sandinista Cliffs Tupameros Area
30 Red October

Un-repeated? Short, smooth and hard.

Start: The right hand hanging corner from the terrace above 'Gunboat Diplomacy' and 20m left of 'Guinea Pig Flake'.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1990

Trad 15m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Sandinista Cliffs White Wall Area
30 X Orca

Hard grit 'Grampians' style. Effectively it is a grade 30 solo. Repeated by UK grit master Ben Heason and confirmed at English E8 6c.

Start: Climbs the northern arete of the large boulder (Legolands bouldering area) which is directly opposite 'The Territorial Imperative'.

FA: Julian Saunders (solo), 2002

Trad 8m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Sandinista Cliffs Sandinista Wall
30 Contra Arms Pump

A popular steep powerful flake and pocket climb. One of the first routes of this style done in the Grampians. The climb eases up considerably in the upper half.

Start: Start 15m left of 'Sandinista' at the well chalked flake crack.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1989

Trad mista 20m, 2
30 Daniel Or-tiger

Daniel Ortega? Classic sustained line of pockets up a very steep wall. Six FH's and a fixed thread.

Start: Starts 3m left of 'Sandinista' at the pocketed crack. Stickclip first bolt and clean/dry holds before starting.

FA: Martin Scheel (Redpointed after six days of effort), 1989

Sportiva 25m, 6
30 R Journey Through Nicaragua

One of the best all trad lines in Australia. Brilliant pocketed corner on the best rock anywhere and an inspiration for all hard climbers. This was the first grade 30 in Australia done outside of Arapiles.

Start: The superb hanging corner about 15m right of 'Sandinista'. It finishes at the same point as 'Sandinista'. Gain access to the corner by stepping in from the ledge to the right.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1987

Trad 20m
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Loopeys
V9 Crimpy Caterpillar
Boulder
V10 Old Henry's Sit Start
Boulder
V10 In Your Jesus Christ Pose

Crawl into the dark cave left of 'Passion' and sit-start on the right matching a big sloper. Traverse left via a massive iron-cross move (hence the name) and finish on the left.

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999

Boulder
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Hollow Mountain Cave
V9 X-treme Cool

Big moves on big holds starting right at the very base of the cave (at the 'window'). Finish on the large hold at the start of 'Sleepy Hollow'.

FA: Klem Loskot, 2000

Boulder
V9 CaveGirl

A variant way of doing 'Cave Man', essentially eliminating the big RH gaston move, but climbing the same problem.

Boulder
V9 CaveMan

The moderate classic of the cave - but that starts and ends nowhere in particular.

Start: Start on the major flake line, about 5 metres from the bottom wall of the cave - on a realtively juggy flakey bit.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Boulder
V10 Annagramma

FA: Thomas Willenberg, 2000

Boulder
V9 Ogre Thumb

Start as for Wimmel Friedhoff and finish up 'Rave Heart'.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Boulder
V9 Amniotic World

Start as for 'Rave Heart' and finish up Wimmel Friedhoff

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

Boulder
V10 Extended World

Start on the furthest RH sloper right of 'Rave Heart' original start - then traverse left into 'Amniotic World' and finish up it.

FA: Klem Loskot, 2000

Boulder
V9 Extended Heart

Start as for 'Extended World' but finish as for all of 'Rave Heart'.

FA: Tim O'Neill, 2000

Boulder
V9 Krusti

Funky fun. More technical than hard really.

Start: Start at the bottom left hand side of the cave (near a 'window').

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Boulder
V9 Eye of the Tiger

Sit-start left of Paparazzi and traverse right all the way to Krusti's finish hold.

FA: Sharik Walker, 2000

Boulder
V10 R American Pie

Jump start, left of Body Eater, and dyno towards the lip and top out.

FA: Alan Pryce, 2000

Boulder

1 - 100 di più di 10,000 vie.

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